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EDIT: Never mind. I'm staying out of it. Good luck OP. Take in lots of information and decide what works best for you.
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WOW, quick with Ron's forum attack dogs! I did not post the question to start an argument. Everyone needs to calm down. It was a simple question to Ron.
I am new to this group and asking about Ron's specific autox background. Did I bring up a touchy subject? I would not got to a proctologist to get my teeth cleaned but without checking the background you might end up there. I am asking because like myself Ron might have been sent to other states to help set up suspension on autocross cars. I have never seen him at local SCCA or AAS events locally, so I figured he might go out of state. How else are you going to learn a new form of racing without testing? Rodney, I agree a national title is not everything but it does take the small pond out of the mix. It does prove you have an idea about setup or someone who helps you does. You are incorrect about being a national champion because no one else is in the class. You would be a national winner not champion and would not get the national champion jacket. Why are you not using his set up tips? (never mind, It doesn't matter) Greg, I am trying to keep this nice. Name calling is childish. It was a simple question. Lance, Cup races are circle track and very different than auto crossing. They do not have any quick transitions. WS6, Smart Move. You can ask any local fast autoxer and most likely they are more than willing to help you. We all like the challenge and competition. other than hearing from Ron. I am not reposting on this topic. I wrote to help but it wasn't taken as such Ron, I am still waiting. You always seem to duck out when asked a real question. Scott Fraser |
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Wait... WHAT?? I was there.... The Shelby Mini Nats as they are called -- is NOT A RACE -- It's a fun event where for one session - anyone that cares to, can go out and "race".... This is totally GENTLEMAN racing -- not real racing... Nobody is going to take the other guys line - there's no fender bashing - it's for FUN. Mike is a seriously fast guy -- I consider him and Brianne my friends. I have a Mustang and I wouldn't hesitate to call him for advice or parts. I have his parts on my car... and if I was AUTO CROSSING, and drove his style -- I'd copy him in a heartbeat. I've sat in a room and listened to Mike and Hobaugh (super good buddies) go round and round about the way each other tunes their cars suspension... Both of them appears to be right --- FOR THEM. Mike likes his car one way - Hobaugh another... Doesn't make either of them right or wrong. Each can beat the other on any given day and have done so many times. If I was the OP --- I'd certainly call Mike for his invaluable advice and stellar parts. But I wouldn't stop there. Different driving styles require different set ups... and sadly - since most of us aren't race car guys - we don't get the chance to drive many different set ups to know what is going to work for us. Some guys do really well with a real edgy set up. I'd wreck that in turn 2... I need a more forgiving set up that allows me to recover... What's my point?? Don't be a one horse "this is the way it has to be" kinda guy... Talk to lots of people and try to find a suspension set up that works for you and your style, and what you want out of the car. Being closed minded and arguing about one way, or the highway, just shows ignorance. Be open and honest, learn and experiment. |
Well, this thread has sure gone sideways. Lets get back on topic and drop the personal shots. That doesn't fly here.
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Yeah don't get this closed up you hell hounds. Play nice!!
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I am re-posting my answers because I believe they were lost in the scuttle
big bar/soft spring? that choice is mostly decided from training and driving style.. for me...I run my 68 Camaro with 800 lb front springs and the DSE sway bar...my upper control arms pivot point has been moved from stock (modified Guldstrand) and that creates a jacking effect so essentially my car is in camber moment at all times...the lower control arm has the shock mount moved closer to the ball joint than standard arms....and the triple adjust front shocks i have run a digressive piston....on the rear I run a 325 spring on a triangulated 4 link and the triple adjust rear shocks i have run a digressive piston, I use the Helwig Protour rear bar....the weight of my car is 3150 with full interior, radio, heater, full tank and Cage the engine is a 6.0 LS..... my set up is big bar/medium spring and even with the poundage of springs I run you can see how my car fully compresses coming off the rumble strips at 90mph at the Vegas Track http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...psbfx4pllv.jpg hope that helps |
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Thank Rod, it does help, even all of the banter in some way has helped. Considering suspension setups are subjective, my next question was going to be if there a was middle ground with bar/spring realtionship. However your car shows that there is a middle ground, with an 800lb spring and big bar in front. |
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First … I hate this silly bickering. It’s not fun for me … or anyone. I have no desire to participate or extend it. At my age & stage of life, I don’t have anything to prove to anyone. I’ll respond once & hopefully the crap calms down. A few quick bullet points: • I have experience in road racing, karts, drag racing & oval racing … with most of my experience in road racing … and am relatively new to autocross competition. • Autocross IS different ... as are all the 80 different classes of racing I’ve been in. • Every time I went into a new form of racing … there are always a few guys that tell me my strategies won’t work in this form of racing. • As a driver, owner, crew chief or driver coach I have 498 personal wins & 22 championships, having won in all 80+ forms of racing I’ve been in. • As a designer, consultant, trainer, set-up guy … my clients' wins total in the thousands. • Scott is correct. I only have a small number of currently active autocross clients. • All have improved. Some have won some local SCCA & GG events. That’s it so far. • I have a good number of clients with cars being built or modified & expect them to do well too. But only time will tell. For me, it’s simple … I have a lot of real world experience in a wide range of racing … that has led to winning success in every series I’ve been in … and I love to help people by sharing that knowledge & experience. Over my lifetime I’ve read a ton of books, went to every workshop I could, tapped into wise veterans as mentors, ran my own cars, done 2500+ test days, ran over 2500 races, etc, etc. A lot of people in my past shared info with me. I feel obligated to share that info forward if someone wants it. I’m old, comfortable, have no more race teams or cars to run and I’m in a position to share that info through forums, books, workshops & 1-on-1. I really enjoy it … and seems most guys that attend my workshops or read my stuff do too. If I can make a few bucks doing this & my clients are happy … then it’s all good. Scott, you have no interest in running my strategies & why would you? You’re fast … with a lot of successes under your belt with your strategies. I’m not clear on why you’re attacking mine. There is nothing stopping you or anyone from starting your/their own threads on these forums sharing knowledge. I’m not trying to convert anyone. But I am willing to share advice & knowledge if someone wants it. I only offer advice or info when someone asks. If they want to run my strategy, then I want to help. Want to learn what I have to offer? … Buy a workshop ticket, my book or simply ask a question on my forum threads. No? No worries mate. There are plenty of other smart, experienced people in this sport. Mike Maier being one of many. Mike & I are old racing buddies. Mike & his brother raced in the same USAC Focus Midget series we did. He could wheel the heck out of them cars too. Mike & I have talked suspension strategies a zillion times. We agree on some things & not on others. He is a super sharp car builder, tuner & driver, as well as having a bajillion autocross wins & championships. You’ll notice he & I are not on here bickering about how to do things. Should the OP talk to Mike Maier about running CP? Hell yeah! He’s dominated that class with his yellow Mustang. Should the OP also read books, go to workshops, find mentors, etc … I think yes … if he wants to. Man, this took way too much of my time. Scott, that is why I don’t respond to this crap. That’s 30 minutes of my life wasted. Best wishes everyone ! :cheers: |
3550# fat car with 40 year old suspension technology underneath it...except for a modern soft spring big bar setup.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RF...c=w980-h653-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q3...-=w720-h358-no Car runs a 600# spring up front with a 1.5" diameter 0.375" wall front sway bar. List of cars it beat in last Sunday's autocross in Raw time: 2000 Pontiac Trans AM WS6 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2013 Scion FR-S 1997 Ford Mustang Cobra 1965 Factory Fi Cobra 2014 Ford Fiesta ST 2013 Scion FR-S 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi 1989 Honda Civic Si 1972 Int'l Harvester Scout II 1992 Chevrolet Corvette 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier 2003 Mazda Miata 2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX MR 2010 Porsche 911 4S Cab 2014 Nissan 370Z 1998 BMW 328is 1999 Mazda Miata 2011 Subaru WRX 2013 Fiat Abarth 2008 Volkswagen R32 2014 Nissan 370Z 2013 Fiat Abarth 95 Margay Lynx 1991 Mazda miata 2015 Subaru WRX STi 2013 Subaru BRZ 1991 Mazda MX5 Miata 2001 Porsche 911 Turbo 11 Camero 1997 Mazda Miata 1991 Ford Mustang 2008 Volkswagen R32 2013 Chevrolet Camaro 2005 Volkswagen Jetta GLI 2013 Scion FR-S 2015 Subaru WRX 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 2004 Porsche 911 2013 Ford Focus ST 1997 Mazda Miata 1991 Mazda Miata 2015 Ford Mustang GT 1984 Porsche 944 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 2002 Mazda Miata 2008 Mini Cooper 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra 2002 Honda S2000 2007 Mini Couper 2009 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3 2014 Ford Focus ST 1994 Toyota Tercel Ford Focus 1967 Pontiac Firebird 2013 Ford Mustang GT MX5 2013 Fiat Abarth 500c 2015 Scion FRS 2003 Mazda Miata 86 Nissan 300zx 86 Nissan 300 zx 1972 Int'l Harvester Scout II 1990 Mazda Miata 2006 Ford Focus 14 Honda Civic SI 2012 Scion tC 2006 Pontiac gto 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT 1992 Mazda Miata 2008 Mazda Mazda 3 BMW 328i 2000 Ford Mustang GT 1979 Chevrolet Camaro 95 Miata 09 Honda Fit 00 Mustang 1987 Pontiac Fiero GT Same car finished 16th out of 64 of the best of the best CAM cars and drivers at CAM East a few weeks ago, with less tire, less brake and less horsepower than a lot of the cars behind it. This particular car would not finish like it has shown it can many times over...without a finely tuned SSBB setup. Other cars and setups may be different but to say autocross is a one trick pony that only a stiff spring car can run well at is just incorrect. |
Sigh.....let me fix that for you.
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the rear bar is 3/4" hollow, heat treated with 3 adjustable rates rate 225: Acts like a: 21.49 mm bar rate 240: Acts like a: 21.85 mm bar rate 255: Acts like a: 22.18 mm bar |
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Thanks for the props Donny, means a lot to me coming from a driver of your caliber. I'm trying to be as good as I can get.
That International Harvestor is a Good Guys winner btw... ;) It is bad arse... |
I'm glad you see it that way.
I'm a hack, though.....That Mason kid, he can wheel. |
I have lots of video of me passing people.... I have lots of video of people passing me... My car is faster than I am. LOL
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For a "big bar setup" the effective spring rate of the bar needs to be greater than the effective spring rate of your coils. This pulls the inside tire up and will compress the suspension due to cornering loads. Unless you have a silly light spring rate 1.125" bar ain't gonna do it. You will need a 1.375"+ diameter before you get into big bar territory.
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Lots of talk about what works best for the individual, different driving styles and what not. What about the guy building a car with zero experience on a road course? Greg you've got three track cars and I'm sure they're all set up different. The mustang with Ron's secret sauce, the Lotus I'm guessing is stiffer and lighter with more aero and then the Miata....which is, um...a Miata. Which do you feel the most confident in? :thumbsup: |
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I ran the BBSS setup on my asphalt late models, and understand what is needed as a fine tuned system to make this setup fast. Shock valving is the most critical. I posted on my build thread a couple years back that I was going to attempt a BBSS setup on my Chevelle, and wondered then what people would think, so this thread is interesting to me, to say the least...can do without the bickering though. |
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Great question Basher!! Not really relevant to this particular thread but here goes it: Let's discuss before and after.... The Mustang was a complete disaster for handling... it was outdated... worn out... had cracked suspension parts - bushings that were frozen... shocks that were the worst worn out crap many people had ever seen. It's a track car... it's a few years old... stuff wasn't up to snuff. I didn't know any better. I only knew that I couldn't keep up with similar cars. Enter the forensic teardown and measurements of what was... and a fresh sheet of paper and calcs by Ron Sutton... The car is now a pure joy to drive -- videos of before and after confirm that the car works and works really well. Everybody used to pass me.... now - about the only people that pass me are guys with way fatter tires (Big Mikes Cup Car for instance). He used to pass me and I'd never see him again... now I can hang with him and do so without driving hard. I have the Sutton Low Roll High Travel design on my Mustang. The car is amazing. I have complete confidence in the car off line or any line... It's allowed me to work on driving skills rather than my life saving skills... with a series of linked recoveries. It's just flat planted. I bought the Lotus 2 11 as a back up car... driving it is what tipped me off to how BAD the Mustang was. I USED TO describe the Mustang as "the pissed off bull"... and the Lotus as an adult GoKart.... That description would NOW be - the Mustang is WAY MORE FUN than the Lotus. I drive both with almost the same lap times. The Lotus used to be WAY faster. I may now sell the Lotus - because it's just too much fun to wheel the Mustang. I used to "get thru" the Mustang -- and happily stepped "up" to the Lotus... Now I drive it (the Lotus 2 11) because I have it and it should be driven... The Lotus has double adjustable Ohlins.... weighs nothing... has plenty of power... steering is quick and light - and it's surgical.... the set up is exactly what the factory specs say to run it at.... the only big changes for handling are the mono ball bushings that replaced the rubber bushings.... and the Camber - and ride height and rake for downforce. The Ohlins are set to factory recommendations. It's an IRS... It runs grippy Yokohama A001 Softs (similar to Hoosier A7's). The Miata was set up by Hobaugh for his daughter -- and he has auto crossed it and tracked it. With 100 more HP it would be a hoot... it's a "momentum car"... don't lift or you loose any momentum you had. It has some Falkens on it I think... It has adjustable shocks - different springs -- a roll bar... And the only guys that make fun of it are the ones that haven't had a chance to drive it. It's a hoot - sticks like glue - and a guy can really get after "the lines" with this car! YES -- the other cars can pass it... it lacks HP and TQ.... it does not lack FUN or confidence. You can toss it around in the corner - evoke mild oversteer and then just point it where it needs to go and ZOOM ZOOM... like I said - a total hoot! The cheapest, most fun, track car ever. Put some sticky Yoko's or Hoosiers on the little brat and it would be faster... but then I couldn't drive it to the grocery store after tracking it all day. The Lotus 2 11 is by far the most dangerous to drive... huge rear weight bias (63%).... needs speed to get the aero working... snap oversteers.... and I mean SNAP. I've learned to drive it and catch the oversteer - but it will bite you big time! It's every fast - and is not a beginners car. You go into a corner and lift, or touch the brakes - you're history. It too is a momentum car -- but the momentum is far higher because it's fast. Don't make any mistakes in this car. It needs to be well driven at speed. Over correct as I did from T8 up to T9 at Thunderhill and you have a "tank slapper" on your hands. There's a series of "S" black marks up in that section - just before I spun it. LOL I simply missed the apex at 8 and then tried to correct my line.... and it was Katy bar the door! Bring on your fat tired 600+hp ZR1 and I'll drive by you like you're standing still. It's really well engineered and light as a feather. I'll take the Mustang any day. NOW! I wouldn't have said that pre "Sutton". That's the answer to "which do you feel most confident in". It's the most neutral handling - glued to the track - predictable - no fuss - just "punch it! I know the road" of all three cars. |
Greg, that is a great endorsement for Good Ron (Sutton)! Sounds like he setup your car so YOU could drive it fast!
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People have touched on this but I think it needs to be specifically pointed out. Everyone drives differently. You have to set the car up for your driving style. That, or you have to retrain yourself how to drive. It might ultimately be a combination of both. However, there's also more than one way to go fast. Combine them all together and figure out what works for you. I still think it's best to listen to lots of different people and decide for yourself what will work for you and your car. This has been a good read after skipping over the bickering. Let's keep the tech up.
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That was baked in the cake. He (Ron Sutton) was brought on to help me... in the most basic ways. Tire pressures... etc. Running two cars, I wanted to LEARN basic car/track management. i.e., if the track is hot - what do I do with the tire pressures etc. When are my tires "hard" (Durometer). Teach me how to measure tire temps and what they are telling me. BASICS. The point is - that HE was able to watch the car - and ask me questions and listened to ME and what I was feeling etc. I think by the end of the first day - he'd taken 15 or 16 seconds off my lap times. Fast forward... "Why is everyone passing me in the Mustang? But I can pass them all in the Lotus?" And "The Mustang just wears me out..." All of the discussions we had were not about being .10 faster. They were solely centered on making the car more fun to drive. Making it predictable. Improvements that made the weekends fun and safe for ME... at whatever level I was capable of driving. I will NEVER tell you I'm fast or that I'm a good driver. It's never been my goal. I just wanted the car to work so I could stop having "oh crap" moments 6 out of 10 turns. The CARS are fast. My guess is - the Mustang would be 4 or so seconds a lap faster with Brian Finch or Hobaugh or Mary Pozzi behind the wheel. I think they'd really like the way the car is set up. I've gotten the car to understeer (tight) once or twice now.... The minute I let up on the brake - she gets grip and off I go on around the corner... I had very minor oversteer (loose) on exit under power. Mentioned this to Ron and with a minor adjustment on the shocks (triple JRi's) that disappeared. The car is happy. The understeer was induced because I'm so much more confident in the car that I can hammer the entry harder - brake later - and explore late apex lines etc that I NEVER would have attempted prior to the "fix". I was going to name my "team" - Tasmanian Devil Racing - I spun every track event. Now my lap times are faster than the group I run with and I don't spin or even come close to it. I did go off track at T3 at Sonoma on exit - kept it in the dirt until I could feather back on track for T4 - and I hardly even lifted on the throttle... I was WAY off line into the turn (3) - which had me exit wide - I knew this was going to happen when I entered the turn... I just got lazy on a pass and didn't bring the car back to where it should have been. In the old car - I wouldn't have made the pass - and had I gotten off line I would have been in the wall at T3 instead of a "ho hum I have two in the dirt". When flagged for my indiscretion - the President of the club asked what happened - I told him - (he's run nose and tail with me) he waves me back out and says "GO GET 'EM". :thumbsup: |
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Pappy |
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Trey, I totally agree. When I was in racing, we didn't set-up cars to suit the driver. We set-up the car to be fastest & taught the driver how to drive it optimally. Every 1/10 of a second mattered. Our joke used to be, "Do you care how the car feels or how winning feels?" But in sportsman racing, track days, pro touring, etc ... I take a different approach, because the top goal is often having fun, more than winning. In that case, we do want to set-up the car to fit the driver. At the end of the day, we want the car to inspire confidence, be fun to drive & be fast. So we're not worried about 1/10 of a second. Some may think I only do high travel/low roll set-ups today. But that's not accurate. In the initial consultation, I explain the pros & cons of the 4 common set-ups. 1. Conventional low travel/high roll (around 1" travel & 3° roll) - provides more grip & confidence on corner entry under braking. Allows the driver to drive in deeper & brake harder. But carries less mid-corner speed. Provides moderate corner exit grip. 2. Modern high travel/low roll (around 3" travel & 1° roll)- has less grip on entry. Requires the driver to brake earlier & softer. Provides more grip & confidence through the corners & carries more mid-corner speed. Provides superior corner exit grip. 3. Moderate travel & roll is an in-between set-up of the #1 & #2. Typically around 2" travel & 2° roll. Achieves a balance of the traits from #1 & #2. 4. Low travel/low roll (around 1" travel & 1-2° roll) - provides high grip on corner entry under braking. Has narrow sweet spot where the car turns well. If under driven, tends to push. If over driven, car is loose or free. Requires top notch driver feel & control. After they understand these options & their traits ... then my client guides me on what they want. Most of my clients choose #2 or #3. But regardless, I know how to calculate the spring & bar rates ... if I have all the key info on the car ... to achieve whichever strategy my client wants. The choice doesn't matter to me, because I'm not driving it. All I want them to be is happy with their car. My joy is when they call me after running it & say the car handles amazing. :thumbsup: :cheers: |
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A neutral or balanced car will drive better no matter who is behind the wheel. Most often its a driver issue that needs tuning. |
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I will attest to the FUN - FAST - CONFIDENCE feel of the car!!
What that allows me to do then - is to grow into being a better driver. We only do this VERY LITTLE... most guys do what? 3 or 4 track events per year?? Maybe with MONTHS in between?? How good do you really think you're going to be? Better to have the car be good and comfortable... because it will be plenty fast. Only thing I'm going out for is a big sh!t eating grin... and to hang with my friends. Rozelle or Hobaugh or Popp or Steilow or Pozzi.... they're going for the win. Let's face it -- most of us are not in that league. Doesn't mean that with a properly set up car you can't be competitive and be proud of your times... or win a local auto cross... And you'll also soon discover that all the parts in the world - that don't work in harmony - are just a giant pile of expensive parts. That's where the GOAL needs to be set - and the professional brought in BEFORE you buy a bunch of parts and toss half of them in the For Sale section... Or if you've bought the parts and aren't happy -- buying more parts without (yet again) selecting them correctly and without professional advice... is just wasting more time and more money. You're probably a pro in your business.... and don't you think that people that don't consult you FIRST are idiots?? Costing themselves time and money, when all they had to do was get you involved in the beginning?? |
Big bar small bar
I agree that most of us don't get enough track
time running 3-4 events a year. My viper buddy runs once or twice a month I also want to point out budget does dictate some of the decisions on what we run. My Pantera is mostly set For me. My firebird is another story. I put some brakes on the car but needed bigger wheels and better tires before the brakes could be finished. 4k for wheels 1500 for tires Now I can do the better brakes. But I could also use some better shocks. One of the Jri shocks is more than my current Vikings. Also just spent 1600 on Pantera tires I elect to keep the car running and slowly improve it I am also figuring out how to drive the car the best way I can. Every time I change things it gets better but far from done. Years ago a new set of tires is what made it better and we just drove it Bad handling or not and learned how to drive it faster Change is good but sometimes seat time for now I think is better I have been tracking for the last 10-11 years and just started to do more Autocrossing. For me it is a lot harder to Autocross than go run a track Don't get me wrong I love tracking but I think Autocrossing gives you less error and to me more feedback on how the car is doing As we say on my Pantera forum Flamesuit on Bob |
If it was EASY..... the fat chicks could do it! LOL
Totally agree Bob. As a "hobby" -- it's beginning to get right up there with airplanes (on the cost). EEEEEEHHHHHHHAAAAAAA Quote:
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Big bar soft
Greg,
I had my Mustang (Chet's now) completely redone when I first bought the car.. springs, shocks, overides and brakes... It was my first real track car so I wanted something that was right before I went out there Car was soft but would run anywhere on the track so very easy to drive like yours... tried autocrossing it once and to me soft is not the way to go in an autocross car Now I am trying to figure things out as I go plus keep the Firebird running.. I hate dead cars Pantera is like your Lotus in handling department.. sticks great but as you say do not let off in a turn or brake otherwise it is hard to stop it from spinning.. I have only spun it once on the track on cold tires and once in front of the world at Optima Bob |
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Chet absolutely drives the wheels off that car! I've followed him enough to be able to make that statement! He needs to maintain it better - but that's a different discussion. Here’s what makes me a Sutton Fanboi…. you have no idea how good it (the suspension) can be until you’ve done it - and then you kick yourself for ever having driven such a POS - when it could have been so good. Only when you’ve driven “ok” or “bad” can you then compare to what is fantastic. I’m no longer looking for anything “better” — I think this is as good as it can get, given my skinny tire leaf spring car (245's squared)… and the only reason I think that is, because I’m able to run guys down from half a track back before they can get two more turns in…. WTF more do you want than that for a “track day” car. I can say with fact that the CAR allows me to drive that way. It's not my skills. If I had skills, the car would be far faster. |
Someone once explained tire grip with soft spring vs stiff springs to me like this.
When you walk across an ice skating rink, do you walk stiff legged or do you bend your knees and step lightly with each step? |
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http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf32a5b39.jpg |
Let me explain this video and why I'm posting it AGAIN....
This is a SUTTON high travel low roll set up - leaf springs - 245 tires... big brakes... 590ish HP... First LAP is under YELLOW - we're not allowed to pass at all under YELLOW... WE are not allowed to pass in CORNERS... When watching - you must realize that there are LIMITATIONS on these track days where you can pass... And I know this track well -- and sometimes its just not WORTH IT to take a pass.... you back out and pass when you want to. There are many times when cars are holding me up -- you'll see instances where I get brake checked... where I could have gone far deeper into a corner and carried a higher corner speed. Remember we aren't allowed to pass in corners. Watch how many times there are no cars in sight ---- and I catch them and then pass them with ease. This is NOT a horsepower issue... it's a "higher average speed" issue. The guys I'm passing are going as fast as they can - and doing the best they can... they're not braking and letting me by. NOBODY wants to get passed. Near the end I run into a complete CF of traffic. There is ZERO effort to pass or get caught up in that.... so I just let 'em go - REMEMBER I HAVE RON SUTTON ON THE RADIO TELLING ME ABOUT TRAFFIC. The whole time I'm on track he's working with me on stuff... he might be telling me to just back off and gain some speed (like a sling shot move) to go around someone... We're talking about corners and dissecting the track... and trying different lines and working on things the entire time I'm out there. If you don't think this SUSPENSION IS WORKING WELL.... well then there's no helping you... LOL |
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