Glad to see you're back to building the car, Tony. Sorry to hear you've been laid off. It's tough times in the oil patch right now.

car is coming along great. Those 355's look good!

Sorry to hear about the job. You've been doing that for a long time. I had a similar situation happen to me in 09 and when one old familiar door shuts a better one often opens. Going full time on he car shop?

Looks great Tony! You are going to love this car! Looking forward to following along on with the Power Tour goal! You can do it!!

And I love the Orange and black!

Looking good! Dig the GZ3 wheel choice to.

Sweet project Tony, I like how you always think resale a lot of people do not when building these cars. I think it's coming along great and will be killer when completed.

I like the look of this color wheel personally. In the future, I'm thinking about eventually going with the all dark grey look myself.

I'm steadily making progress. I still hope to have it completed for Power Tour this year. 3 months to go!

I figured out that my brake hats weren't sitting completely flat on my hubs. They rocked a tiny bit, before tightening the lugs down. The centerbore on the wheel hub has a rounded fillet where it meets the lug pad. My rotor hats had square corners on the ID. I had my next door neighbor put a radius on the backside of the rotor hat bore. Minor setback, but it is good to have neighbors with full machine shops!

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...229_150433.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...229_150636.jpg

Ever since I assembled my glass-bead blast cabinet, I've wandered around the shop and looked for stuff to blast. It is almost addicting, to restore metal. I try my best and save original parts when I can, as they tend to fit better and seem more sturdy than repro parts. I should have had one of these years ago, I use it a lot.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...227_173600.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...227_175136.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...227_175317.jpg
This was buried under the paint. Pretty cool to find.
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...227_175247.jpg

With those items blasted, as well as headlight buckets, I installed the DSE headlights and Marquez billet fog lights. I didn't realize the Marquez lights were not just a simple bolt-in. It requires drilling two new mount holes, and cutting away the original light support bracket. That was nerve-racking, working with a drill and air cutter around fresh paint. Not a reversible modification, you'll have to commit to doing them and keeping them.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...302_163652.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...302_165134.jpg
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...302_165055.jpg

Also spent some time doing some final body/gap alignment on the front end panels. Started assembling the brake master cylinder setup, which was a nice piece. Wilwood 7/8" master with their optional proportioning valve system. The kit came with all the tubes and brackets, making this an easy and clean assembly. Will run brake lines this week.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...302_182951.jpg

I'll be moving the car to my 4-post Rotary lift for final assembly. So, I upgraded it with a new jack system. I like new tools :)

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...301_163455.jpg

Awesome build! Looks great!

I've considered taking DV8 to the next level, and currently it is my full time job. The kiss of death is walking away from the Sr management level salary range in the oil sector. I've worked hard to get there. But, it may just come down to that. I'm ready to be my own boss.

Thanks. While I do not plan on selling this car (always been a dream car to have a hugger '69 SS vert), I do always try and keep the cars from being over-personalized. I also try and stick with a consistent theme throughout the build, whereas many builders just throw a mix-match of parts into a car and don't follow a theme. This car will still appear retro in theme, but with some minor modernizing tips. I still want it to appear like a classic car, until you pop the hood. The surprise factor is what I'm after.

nice neighbor!:weld:

Looking sweet!

I restored the 1969 Camaro firewall cowl tag yesterday. It has been off the car for 2 years now, since starting the sheetmetal work. Here is a step by step process, to help others do the same restoration.

Remove cowl tag by drilling out old pop-rivets. Here is how mine looked.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_133455.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_133504.jpg

Get some aircraft stripper, let the plate soak in the stuff for about 20 minutes. The old paint will lift right off. Use a plastic bristle brush to gently remove all the paint remaining.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_134121.jpg

Here is how it looked with all the old paint stripped away. It was a bit harder to read, due to the texture of the surface. My tag was also a bit warped, and had a couple edges lifted. I used a small 1" wood roller (used for installing wallpaper or dynamat) to smooth the tag out. Try to avoid rolling on the letters, just the bordering areas. Sort of like a small rolling-pin. Got the badge perfectly flat again.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_140259.jpg

I spray painted the tag with matte silver metallic. I wanted something close to the bright zinc color on the backside of the tag. Let the paint bake in the sun for 30 minutes. It came out perfect.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_141641.jpg

Painted, in same lighting as before. The paint really made it easier to read.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_141804.jpg

Before/After

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_152532.jpg

I used some aluminum pop-rivets and put the tag back on the firewall. Pedigree is restored. For you cowl-tag decipher guys, X55 = SS 350, 72 = Hugger Orange, 711 = black standard interior, 01C = build 3rd week of Jan 1969.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_151630.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...303_151535.jpg

Tony

It's in the details Tony. Thanks for sharing pal.
Looks awesome...

Great job brother!

I had a productive weekend in the shop. Engine bay is almost complete, will be ready to install the engine soon.

Started with freshly restored original pedal assembly. Modified it by fabricating a clutch master cylinder (cut down length of rod, welded on rod, threaded, and added Heim joint. I'll admit this took me two attempts, the first time I snapped the weld off when threading it. Ground two flats into the side, so that I could grab it better when threading it. Drilled a 3/8" hole on the clutch arm, near the location that Speed Tech suggests, since I was using their firewall bracket.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_121521.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_151915.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_152208.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_152256.jpg

Next up, installed some Lokar brushed pedals.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_121634.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_170624.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_172135.jpg

Installed the pedal assembly, tilt steering column, clutch master, and Wilwood 7/8" brake master. This was a bigger chore than I anticipated, since the two studs on the pedal assembly that hold the brake master weren't long enough. Had to pull the stuff back out, and take a cutting wheel to cut the heads off of those two studs to remove them. This is because they are welded into the frame of that pedal assembly. Replaced the studs with 2" long grade-8 bolts.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...305_173401.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_121729.jpg

Now for a product endorsement. I read some reviews on the S.U.R.&R. brake line system, and how easy it was to use. The tubing is some special alloy that is softer to bend, and has a thick enough wall that it won't kink. They also claimed that it would be easier to flare. They were right! I was able to fabricate my front brake lines by hand, without using a bender. You can even straighten the tube out by hand, if you get angles wrong. I literally measured the approx length I needed for each run, then sat in the engine bay and bent as I went along, following the route I wanted to use. My first test flare was perfect, and so were the rest of them. Zero re-dos, easiest stuff I've worked with. Info on the kit here: http://www.surrauto.com/brake.html I bought the complete 3/16 EZ kit from Summit, about $117.

Oh, and that fancy flaring tool? Worth every penny. It was easy to use, and makes perfect flares every single time. I used to get frustrated when it came time to run brake lines. Now it is actually enjoyable!

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_144400.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_151351.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_151416.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_171547.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_171609.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_171624.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...307_171832.jpg

Up next, wiring the entire car...

Nice job. I love that tubing, it is a big time saver. Between that and my MasterCool hydraulic flare tool I almost don't mind plumbing the car. Haha

Brake lines are nicop. nice stuff.

WOW I don't know how I missed this build ! Outstanding!! Please keep the updates coming.:cheers:

Time for some more updates, I've been cranking it out in the last couple weeks.

Having owned more than my fair share of LSX vehicles, I never liked how the bare aluminum blocks tend to oxidize and turn chalky/hazy over time. That, and the LS7 casting is blotchy with dark and light areas on the surface. So, I decided this would be my first painted LSX engine. I'm going for an industrial all-business theme under the hood, so decided to use a simple non-metallic gray color. I masked off all the machined areas and plugged all the threaded holes, then scrubbed the entire block and heads with acetone. I used VHT spray paints, first 2 coats of VHT gray engine primer, followed by 3 coats of VHT "Ford Gray" paint. Good quality paint, it laid down very well and had excellent coverage.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_175417.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_175413.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_175423.jpg

Primer applied:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_180420.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_181241.jpg

Gray paint applied:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_182827.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_182856.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...318_183027.jpg

The same aluminum issues occur with the T56 casing, so I painted the T56 as well. This one was rebuilt about 7 years ago, and just sat on my shelf in the shop. It looked pretty awful at first:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_170218.jpg

After 3 hours of scrubbing with a wire brush, brillo pad, and acetone. Damn that waffle looking casing, so many corners! :

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_182148.jpg

Found a new use for an old 15" wheel and tire. LOL

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_183431.jpg

Primer coats:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_184507.jpg

Gray paint coats:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_185647.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_185706.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...326_190906.jpg

This is a good example of how some things don't have to cost a lot of money, to make an impact. Just some elbow grease and patience is really all that was required. It is much easier to do this stuff now, then it is to regret not doing it later once it is in the car. I'm sure people will notice the attention to detail, on the finished project.

Tony

NICE, I am just about to paint my T-56 as well so this came at a perfect time. yours came out great. Also going to use your TAG restoration process. Thanks for all the pictures and descriptions :thumbsup:

Good job! :thumbsup:

Great idea on the painting Tony, My shop in FL is just like yours, metal, my complete engine and trans are corroded, Time to paint!!

How about some motor-vation? I made a video of my LS7 yesterday.

GM LS7 block (new)
Mast/ETP LS7 head castings, CNC ported
Beck CNC runner cross-port intake manifold
Callies Compstar crank & rods
Wiseco pistons
11.1:1 CR
Comp Cams 233/239, 0.595/0.603, 113 LSA
Factory LS7 rocker arms w/ Comp Cams trunion upgrade kit
Mast LS-swap oil pain (wet sump)
Hooker 1-7/8 black ceramic coated long-tube headers
Wegner Automotive machined pulley system
Longblock machined/built by Texas Speed & Performance. Assembly by me.

Video: https://youtu.be/HO1wBlG_Y5Y

Some pics:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...328_163942.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_155555.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_155619.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_155710.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_155736.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_160147.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_160440.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_160400.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...331_160315.jpg

Tony

That intake looks awesome. Any pictures of it with the lid removed?

Dave

Here you go Dave:

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...912_094415.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...912_094630.jpg

Interested to see your header to ground clearance once you get it in. I'm using the same motor mounts and am undecided on headers right now. What transmission crossmember are you using?

I went with the full Holley/Hooker combo. Engine mounts, headers, and T56 x-member. I might have the engine in this weekend, trans next week.

And here I thought porn wasn't allowed on this site..... :D


T,

Awesome I am using the same hooker/holley swap parts on mine. Can you tell me what size bolts you needed to go through the motor mounts?

Grade 8 bolt, 7/16-14 thread, 5.25" is perfect, but 5.5" will work.

That's one of the best looking LS setups we've seen! You can practically eat off of it!

Agreed. Thank you Nine Ball, you just made my Friday even better!

What's your specs on the QA1's?

Tony, the motor looks Sweet! I love that intake your buddy made.

Thanks for the kind words, gents. These updates keep me motivated, only 2 months remain, to finish the car for Power Tour! My biggest obstacle is the convertible roof, since I've never done one of those before.

They are just single-knob adjustable shocks. Fronts are for the stock '69 subframe, rears are what came with the Speed Tech torque-arm suspension kit. Normally I'd spend more for shocks, but this car will mostly be a cruiser since it is convertible.

Very nice build! Motor looks amazing!
Found a link for Trim Tag rivets that look factory in case you're interested.
http://www.trimtags.com/rivets.html
All the best!

Thanks. I saw those before. But, nothing under my hood looks factory (I hope!)

I'm terrible when I ask questions. I was wondering about spring weight and compression length. My cars simular except I have TCI tourqe arm and LS6.

Front springs are 350 lb, rear springs are 225 lb. Not certain on the compression lengths.

Thanks. Beautiful car, can't wait to see it done as well as my own. Keep up the good work.