|
Nice work !! Looking good !!
|
Thanks all for the compliments! I will definitely upload some photos and measurements of the rear modifications when I get back under the car. I've been focused on the interior lately but I'm getting closer to finishing up underneath.
|
So unfortunately life's curb balls have been hitting me from all angles. The car was obviously side lined but I have decided to keep going on things that don't really cost money at the moment. I don't really have anything too exciting going on but I got my windshield installed today. I got new glass and had my chrome polished. Shout out to Smiley in San Francisco for his polishing skills. He did a great job! If anyone is in the bay area and looking for a guy pm me and I'll give you his number. There's not too many guys doing it around here anymore.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psd1ljn9qs.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psv3iiqd61.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psmfyj4w62.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psovtk2zxc.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psj0hq9sqj.jpg |
Now it's time to straighten out this mess. Anyone have ideas on mounting the Dakota Digital control boxes? I have the dash unit and the electric fan setup. I'm thinking of making a plate for those and the relays so I'm not drilling any holes. I'm also thinking of making a plate to go behind the glove box for my MSD, coil, and solenoid. I am planning on mounting the battery behind the rear seat over the axle.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psws5rwwm1.jpg |
Window trim looks great!
|
Quote:
|
Thanks guys! Is anyone running QA1 or Viking rear coil-over kits? I can't find shock length data on any brands except QA1. They are calling their shock 20.5" extended and 14" collapsed. Here's a shot of my measurement collapsed which is about 14" but I'm afraid that might be too close. The rear end is not touching the frame here, just lying on the bump stops. I plan on setting the car up as low as I can which I am guessing will be about two inches higher than it is here. Am I over thinking it or should I get a shock that's about an inch shorter?
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0j816tyf.jpg |
Here are the measurements for Ridetech coilovers. It looks like the 6.9 will work for you based on the measurements you provided.
Stroke......Compressed......Ride Height......Extended......Spring Length 2.9"..............8.73".............10.5"......... .....11.63"............8" 3.6"..............9.43".............11.5"......... .....13.03"............8" 4.1"............10.13".............12.5".......... ....14.23"...........10" 5.2"............11.23".............14.5".......... ....16.43"...........12" 6.3"............12.33".............16"............ .....18.63"...........14" 6.9"............13.13".............17.25"......... ....20.03"...........14" Click here for more info. *Check your other thread regarding shock lengths. Josh provided some good info regarding the Ridetech coilover conversion kit. |
Sorry life's getting in the way but you're doing great work. The car looks fantastic!
|
Thanks for the Ridetech feedback. I am eagerly awaiting my new kit for the rear so I started back on the wiring. I got the fuse block mounted
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2uprwwml.jpg |
I started playing around with mounting ideas for the Dakota Digital control boxes. I was going to go with fabricating a mounting plate but I after looking at it both ways I think I might just weld some 1/2" 10-32 bungs to the firewall. Here's a rough mock up with double sided tape
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...pscxhcwjfj.jpg |
|
|
|
Quote:
I will go firewall in my case. I'll be at this stage this spring/summer. |
|
|
Looks factory clean!
Great choice of hardware. Thanks for the pics. I now know exactly what to do. |
Looks good!
I'll have to do something like that for my Dakota Digital modules. |
Thanks guys, I ordered the bungs from BungKing.com . He's got a pretty good selection and fast delivery. I found him back when I was building custom Harley's.
|
Fabricated a panel for the electronics. It'll go inside the car on the passenger side firewall. I just can't decide if I am going with a remote solenoid or going to put a power junction block there instead.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psnx8nzuvx.jpg |
Got some new parts in. It's funny I wanted to do a coil over conversion 20 years ago when I was drag racing. Really glad I didn't do it. The technology has come so far. I'm really impressed with the quality of these parts!
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...pssiiq3vco.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psew2bql5v.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psu8dmdwxr.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psouas8nfh.jpg |
It looks good.
|
Alright, so to the guys who patiently waited for my explanation on how to fit a 10" wide rear wheel in a 64.....here's why it took so long. In order for me to photo what was done back in the day I had to remove years of rubber from the ol drag racing days out of the wheel wells in order to show you. LOL, what a pain in the behind that was! I tried everything next to pulling out the torch and melting it off but ultimately was successful in using a commercial grade power washer. I guess I had the best rubberized coating there is.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psz3ydihti.jpg |
|
So I have a 12 bolt that has been narrowed one inch from factory. My rear end measures 59" overall axle to axle. I may be wrong but everything I have read the factory 10 bolt 64 rear end was 60" end to end. The next modifications were to the inner fender well. Obviously I had to do it before paint because I cut the outer wheel housing about three quarters the way up and pushed it out toward the quarter. I then welded in some metal to join the well to the quarter. Then about 3/4" of the lip was trimmed away. Bear in mind I did this 20 years ago. I ran the car with a 28x10" slicks that were basically a 275/60/15's I think. My main thing back then was I didn't want to cut the car up (tub it) and I am glad I didn't. So here's a shot of the inner wheel well looking out toward the quarter. If you look closely you can see where the pieces were welded in. I think this mod gave me roughly another inch of play. I can roll a 20x10 with a 275/35/20 without touching anything and the car's frame resting on the axle without a bump stop.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6njfxj5g.jpg |
|
I decided early on in this project that I did not want to remove the body. It was a decision I regret after countless hours on my back degreasing, welding, grinding and sanding. I guess for the most part I was scared of space limitations and dealing with an already painted car. I also did not want to cut the cage out of it even though I already removed some of it. But in the end I am happy with the way it is coming along. These pics are in an epoxy prime as there are still a few areas that I need to finish but I think it's coming along.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...pshxa5t4nh.jpg |
after...notice the boxed frame rails, T56 trans tunnel mods to look factory, and the driveshaft tunnel mods
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...pscuvy5kup.jpg |
|
It looks great under there, nice owrk.
|
Very nice....I love clean!
|
looks great!!
|
Nice work being done on this. Keep it up! Let me know if you're ever in the east bay with it when you're done- I'm just up in El Cerrito and would love to see it in person. I have a soft spot for A-bodies as I have a 70 chevelle :cheers:
Doug |
Thanks Vince, Joe, Wayne, and Doug! I really appreciate the compliments and you guys looking at my project. It keeps me motivated to keep going, in fact after I type this reply I'm gonna put a few hours working on the car. Thanks again and I'll post more soon.
|
I'm on to my last big project that I've put off and put off. I thought of ways of covering it up for now so I can put the car back together but decided I've come this far I want to finish it right. I would have much rather did the big one piece pan but again not pulling the body off has haunted me. Oh well, I think I've come up with some cut off points that you won't be able to see underneath and the top is going to be Dynamat'd anyway. I'm pumped because once I finish the trunk floor I can finish refinishing the underside and the car can finally go back together.
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...psoodoyup2.jpg http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3caoclyd.jpg |
|
|
|
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:11 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net