I still have got to get the old harness out and cut everything out of it that I don't need like the tbi and anything associated to it but all in all I think I've lost about 60lbs or more of dead weight.
Still has some time before it hits the autocross again but when it does it will be a awesome thing to drive.

Coming along nicely! Good luck moving forward.

Made some radiator support brackets and checking to see how to run the intake tubing.

Got the seat bracket in on time and bolted up with it seating a little high to get in and out of but that's due to the bolstering on the side but it feels pretty good seating in it and got the wiring harness in a day late but it's here and will be a few weeks before I pull the engine and trans out to cut the hole in the fire wall.

Made a support bracket for the clutch pedal bracket that I made out of part store flat stock and bent it to z shape and drilled some holes to mount the clutch bracket to the dash frame(not pictured yet) and mounted the clutch master cylinder so I can start on making the custom clutch line to mount to the Camaro slave cylinder.
Attachment 59056
Then went ahead a drilled the 2" hole for the wiring harness in the only place I could find with a flat surface and not covered by the heater box that is about 4 to 6 inches from the gas pedal.
Attachment 59057

I test fitted the harness but had to pull it back to run the harness through the dash for a cleaner look.Attachment 59122
But didn't have enough wire to run the ecm to the stock spot and so I lost my space for the glovebox.Attachment 59121

Got the trucks master cylinder attached to the Camaro Z28 slave cylinder with -3AN line and fittings.Attachment 59540Attachment 59541
And got the fuel lines also done going from the truck's metric threads to the LT1 push lock fuel lines.
Attachment 59542Attachment 59543Attachment 59544Attachment 59545

Got some Painless wiring rocker switches in for when I start to get some things wired up.
Blue- electric water pump
Amber- fuel pump cutoff
Red- ignition cutoffAttachment 59590

Attachment 59769
I have replaced the lazy stock pump with a Aeromotive 340 pump to keep up with the higher fuel pressure the LT1 requires.
Attachment 59770
Painted the frame after taking the bed off to replace the fuel pump.
Attachment 59771
And also got the McGarghy's 2in drop spring hangers.

Got the driver side head off to the machine shop to get two exhaust manifold bolts drilled out that broke when I took the manifolds off.

Also waiting this weekend to order a few things for the interior and head gaskets and intake gaskets. The head gaskets will be .027 thick Cometic MLS to boost compression closer to 10.75 to 11:1.

Getting the carpet, rear speckers, seat bracket, shifter boot, and some Summit sound deadening to cover where the carpets jute won't cover for a little more quite cab for the loud exhaust I got planned fo

Put the clutch and flywheel on with new ARP bolt just in case the stock bolts are like the head bolts that were torque-to-yield.
Attachment 59878
Got the heads of and cleanEd the lifter valley as good as it can get and clean the heads off to get ready to get them sealed to the new .027 thick MLS gaskets with some ARP bolts.Attachment 59877
Attachment 59882

Ended up fabricating a exhaust cutout on the factory crossmember with some 6in wide 3/16th thick plate steel and it's made sideways because the floor is at an angle in that spot.
Attachment 59881
Maybe later down the road I'll do the next one in a tubular fashion to lose some weight.

Not much stiffness to that box. I would recommend gusseting it in the corners (while still allowing enough clearance for the exhaust). You could also possibly support it on the outside of the box. Either way you need more stiffness if that is really the transmission x-member.

It flexes a little with a 1in gussets on the corners, we'll see what it does with weight on it before I add more supports.

Dropped the engine and trans and the crossmember fit perfectly except for one of the bolt holes doesn't match the frame anymore but that's only minor and the crossmember had little to no flex when the weight was dropped but had a new development accure when we tried to put in the stock driveshaft, so we'll have to get a new one made and possibly go to 1350 yokes.
Attachment 59906

Got the motor and trans back in for the last time. And get ready for a electric water pump, ATI balancer, and 1.6 roller rockers.
Attachment 59955
Started putting in some Summit sound deadening/heat shielding sheets but didn't have enough for it at first before putting in the new carpet
Attachment 59953
And also got the Lokar shifter boot.
Attachment 59954

Well apparently 27.1 square feet of sound deadening is barely enough to cover a standard cab floor, had one third of the last sheet left so ended up putting that on the kick panels and then I'll have to order 11 more square feet to finish the back of the cab.
Attachment 59957
But got the floor done so now on to the carpet which I'll have to trim to fit plus the hardest thing I'll get into is getting the shifter boot lined up where I had it before the carpet went in.

Attachment 60116
Got the new carpet in on the floor the shifter boot down the sill panels and kick panels which I may do something about the dirty carpet on them maybe a aluminum panel.
Attachment 60117
Got the radio control delete in and the switches about to be wired up.
Attachment 60118
Got the clutch pedal hooked up to the slave cylinder and bleed and it feels perfect with no binding and got a standard shift column so there will be no forgetting that the truck has a manual but it may need a new ignition switch.

Good job. I'd really recommend you stiffen the transmission cross member up more. Design it with the intent of strengthening the frame too, which is does, and not just supporting the transmission.

I got a plan for the crossmember that will strengthen it and not add much more weight, but the truck won't be running for about 6 more months so I got time to iron out a few things.

Attachment 60242
Decided to just notch the frame for the Z28's accessory bracket to save on costs and time.
Later I will box the frame back in.
Attachment 60243
It is notched to fit the 1LE pulley plus with the Z28 power steering pump one of the lines will reach the truck steering box and the other is about 8 inches to short so to reach i'll get a new line made plus I'll need to make a bracket for the reservoir.
Attachment 60244
And here is the clutch pedal bracket support brace I made out of some flat steel from the part store and just made a z out of it to hold the bracket up and solid.

Also turn the engine over yesterday so now it just a matter of time before it's running and running down 4.6 Mustangs.

Will you please elaborate on the clutch pedal setup that you used? My 88' Silverado came with a manual, so I simply retained the factory pedal setup for my Muncie that has a custom hydraulic throw out bearing that required tons of machine work inside my bellhousing.
I did however utilize a tilton clutch master, just like I did on my Chevelle, to operate the hydraulic throw out bearing. What's got me wondering about what your doing with the clutch pedal, is the support bracket you made. Are you using the camaro stuff?

Ok here are the parts I used

•Stock replacement Z28 Zoom clutch kit #MU70043-1
•The stock 15lbs Z28 flywheel(just had it turned)
•Dorman Slave Cylinder #CS360052 (1996 Z28)
•Russell Clutch Adapter quick release fittings #640281
•Earl's 45° -3AN hose end #604693ERL
•Earl's 90° -3AN hose end #609133ERL
•Dorman master cylinder #CM126856 (1994 C1500)
•Earl's Speed Seal -3AN hose

The master cylinder and the clutch pedal are the only thing used from a 1988-94 C150 the rest is made or used from the Z28.
I don't know how the Tilton is made but I used the stock replacement master cylinder with the Russell quick disconnect fittings ti go from a hard line to a -AN line, the 45° is a stainless steel hose end but the 90° fitting is a aluminum and the reason for that is it would have taken a month for them to order the 90° in SS. As for the brace I had to make because there was no manual clutch bracket framing under the dash as I was told so I just made it and it is pretty solid.

Got the exhaust mostly done to at least fire the engine up this week. Its a 3inch exhaust with both pipe going into a Flowmaster merge pipe and it comes out a 4inch to what will probably be a Flowmaster muffler.

Here is the air intake done on it with a $44 ebay aluminum elbow and a part store Spectre air filter with the cool choose your size that will fit a 3in, 3.5in, or a 4in inlet size.
Attachment 60372
And the merge pipe in all it's glory.
Attachment 60373

Built a new radiator support top made out of a old street sign. And then got a big tach mounted on the bottom of the dash.
Attachment 60781
Then proceeded to get the water pump wired up and the #1 fan wired up and #2 lacking two wires bit with the rain a weather I haven't been able to finish it yet but it's alot cleaner than most of my wiring in the past.
Attachment 60782
Filled the transmission up after getting the driveshaft bolted in. And bought a 1994-96 Impala SS throttle cable to use and it was to short to reach the pedal so I bent the pedal rod inward towards the firewall and it feels good after some tweaking. Then I drove it today for the first time under its own power to get the start of the year started in the right direction.

Congrats on getting it to move under its own power! That is a good way to start the new year. Hope the rest of the year brings positive developments for you.

Yeah it is and my friend Jesus and I also got the trans crossmember beefed up. Ready to get started on the 4.10 gears, position, and some disc brakes with integration of the Z28s pull style e-brake handle.

Got the wheels and tires picked out and hopefully be getting them and the posi and 4.10s in the next few months.
Attachment 60813
The wheels a American Racing Torq Thrust 2 with the Grey spokes, 18x10in, 5.74in backspacing.
Attachment 60814
The tires I am going to try out are Nitto NT05 measuring 295/45-18
http://www.littleshopmfg.com/gm-88-0...r-disc-brakes/
Found a website that has a rear disc brake swap for the truck for a reasonable price.

I finally got the rearend built with a eBay posi, stock axles, Motive 4.11 gears, Moser main cap studs, Strange forged 1350 yoke, and Little Shop 10.5in disc brake kit.
Attachment 62871
With the rear flip kit done and some 285s on all four corners the truck is almost done for now except for a bigger front sway bar and double adjustable shocks.
Attachment 62872
Attachment 62873

man I love everything about this. thats a nice looking truck without being way too flashy. Guys who know what they are looking at will definitely dig this!

Thanks, it a bit of a unloved body style especially in the aftermarket but I think it's almost as good looking as the 1967-72 C10s.
I went to Roadkill Zip-Tie Drags in Memphis in July and they scoffed at it because these trucks aren't really hot rodded much. And after that I almost took down a 2013 Camaro SS in the process.

Looking good. Congrats on nearing completion.

Don't worry about what others think of your choice for hotrod. It wasn't that long ago that these trucks were hot rodded and slammed to the ground. They look great.

Well completion has to wait as my cheap clutch purchase bit me and now I'm going to fix it with more power. I picked up a 93 Corvette LT1 for $500 with nearly everything on it including the OBD1 ECM and harness and motor mounts.
Attachment 63040
The is a plan is cam it, 500hp clutch kit (don't know what company yet), bigger valves and gasket matching, 52mm TB, and the other bolt ons that I already have.

Unless you plan to go twin disc from McLeod, your clutch choices are limited. I'm running the McLeod Street Extreme disc with an AC Delco pressure plate. Works great behind the 383.

Good luck.

I'm looking at Spec stage 2 kit or a McLeod Super Street clutch. I leaning more to the McLeod even though it costs more.

Attachment 64581
The clutch got done a while ago, bought a McLeod Street Pro clutch and after a couple of thousand miles and runs like a dream.
Attachment 64580
Installed a Belltech 1⅜in front sway bar.Attachment 64582

Attachment 65862
Pulled the cam for a Lunati Voodoo 219/227 cam. Also swapping out any visible bolt with ARP stainless steel 12 point bolts.
Attachment 65863
Then got the heads and intake off and sent to Texas for porting. Looking to max out the stock bottom end before going to a 377ci short block.