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MOUNTING "CAGE" FOR FUEL AND OIL TANKS A mounting structure was built with 1" square tubing to hold the fuel cell can and dry sump tank. On top of this are the "firewall" panels that seal the passenger compartment from these hot/flammable fluids as well as the underside of the car. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G2878-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7144-S.jpg The structure started out as a perimeter section of tubing and eventually lower sections were added for the fuel cell can. Then the bolt-on upper section for the can, too. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G2191-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G2189-S.jpg After that the bracket to hold the ARE billet oil tank mount was formed from steel sheet, with some dimple die holes to add stiffness and remove weight. ENCLOSURE TO COVER OIL TANK AND FUEL CELL Now that the tank/cell mounting cage was bolted into the car the openings through the trunk floor needed to be sealed. There also needed to be metal coverings for the dry sump tank and fuel cell as well, to keep fluids and fire away from the cabin. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7160-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5010444-S.jpg First the enclosure for the top of the fuel cell was built from more aluminum sheet. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3816-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3860-S.jpg These were cut using cardboard templates, then taped together and trimmed, tack welded and final TIG welded. This "can" mounts inside the 1" steel tubing structure. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5010445-L.jpg But wait, there's more! A giant 3-piece enclosure was needed for the oil tank side. The enclosure was too tall and unwieldy to be made from 1 piece, so it's 3 pieces. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5050505-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3879-S.jpg We need to make an easy to access hatch to check the oil tank levels (dipstick) and there's still a flat panel that needs to go between the two upper enclosures but for the most part it is done. They aren't exactly "pretty" to look at but they are very functional and necessary. We might add a shrubbery or something to distract the D&E judges... ;) LEXAN SIDE AND REAR WINDOWS + FUEL FILL To lower weight we added Lexan rear quarter windows and back windows. Then we added a fuel filler neck in one of these windows, and an enclosure around the filler neck. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_6410-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_6411-S.jpg We sourced the rear quarter and back windows from Five Star, a race car supplier. These were mocked up on the car above to check for fit, which was very good. continued below |
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LEXAN SIDE REAR WINDOWS One thing I didn't get this time were the weights on the glass rear window or side windows vs the Lexan bits. I did get the weights on the HARD Motorsport and OEM E46 rear side rear windows in this July post on the E46 330 TTD car, which I copied below. The Five Star bits weigh almost exactly the same but the HM bits are much easier to mount (with their optional install kit) and come with a black outline vinyl border pre-applied to the inside. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8154-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8148-S.jpg The side windows were installed first. Like most race car parts these come with no instructions - you're expected to know what you are doing. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3015-L.jpg Ryan began by marking the outer perimeter with two lines that corresponded to part of the "black border" that would be added later as well as a centerline for drilled holes. These were marked using a compass and a Sharpie, which you can see below at left. The outer protective film was left in place as to not mark up the actual Lexan plastic. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3022-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3014-S.jpg None of the factory mounting hardware was re-used. Holes were drilled equally around the perimeter of the glass that would land in the sheet metal surround of the window. Then the holes in the windows were transferred to the body and those were center punched and drilled. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3019-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3021-S.jpg M5 nutserts were installed into the sheet metal surround for each window then countersunk stainless Tinnerman washer and countersunk stainless bolts secured the window in place. This makes for flush mount, corrosion free hardware. The factory black drip rail trim was then reinstalled. LEXAN REAR WINDOW INSTALLATION https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3066-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3097-S.jpg The rear window installation followed the same techniques: marked and drilled Lexan, transferred holes and drilled sheet metal, added M5 nutserts, then Tinnerman washers and countersunk M5 bolts. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3105-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3104-S.jpg Many of you readers have seen us install and use these threaded inserts or "nutserts" on many projects. We tend to use metric splined steel nutserts in M4, M5, M6 and M8 sizes, like the one shown above left. These add a threaded hole to sheet metal that is "blind" or hard to access on the backside. There are also versions for use in plastic or fiberglass panels as well. If you can work a blind rivet gun you can work a nutsert installation tool (above right). https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3075-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3067-S.jpg This is how they are installed... you drill the appropriate hole (there's a chart), install the nutsert you want with the correct "grip length" (there are longer nutserts for thicker panels), then use the tool to squeeze the insert and expand the back side behind the panel. Now you have a threaded insert that is secured in place. Sure, you could install welded inserts, but that's a lot more work. We tend to use those on thicker metal, if we cannot drill/tap it for some reason, or if we need a much longer threaded length or more strength than the nutsert can support. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8095-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8108-S.jpg Like Ryan did on the same exact brand of rear window on my E46 330, we will go back and tape off then spray paint the border on both the side and rear window on this E46 M3 at a later date. This makes the windows look a lot less "race car" and hides the visible sheet metal underneath. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7008-L.jpg We will be blowing the car apart for paint after the first track test, so we will likely add the painted borders (and some RTV sealant) to these windows then. For now they were secured in place with bolts only. FUEL FILLER NECK At this step we show the plumbing from fuel filler cap on the right rear window to the fuel cell, which had an ATL sourced top fill panel. This is shown with the partial aluminum enclosure around the aluminum fuel cell can in the picture below. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5100558-L.jpg Because of the unusual back seat fuel cell location the filler neck was added to the right rear window. A simple fuel filler neck and cap were sourced from ATL and added as shown below. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7147-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3879-S.jpg Ryan took some aluminum tubing and welded a mandrel bend at the top to line up the filler tube to the cap in the window. A short piece of flexible tubing was added at the bottom but this is only silicone and will be changed out for a fuel safe flexible hose soon. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5080512-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5080510-S.jpg To make this filler neck fire safe the entire fuel fill section was then wrapped within a metal enclosure. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5100575-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5100555-S.jpg This is what it takes to put a fuel cell in the back seat - lots of fabrication work. An upper section to the fuel cell enclosure was built to tie into the fuel filler neck enclosure tube-within-a-tube. Ample room in the top enclosure was added to allow for plumbing AN lines from the fuel cell to the fuel pump and engine and back, all of which will run under the car. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5100568-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5100579-S.jpg All of this can be unbolted in sections for service, but most importantly fuel can be easily added outside of the car and end up in the fuel cell - with fire safe enclosures around everything. That wraps up the fuel cell can, filler neck, and enclosure. We still need a fuel cell bladder, which we have been trying to get quoted for many weeks. continued below |
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FRONT BUMPER BEAM + COVER + HEADLIGHTS + COOLERS Since this car was missing the front end, we needed a new bumper cover and bumper beam. Early in the project the customer sent us a rendering of another BMW he liked and this 1M style front bumper cover from Duraflex matched closely with the later M4 race car he found. Duraflex is a branch of Extreme Dimensions and Carbon Creations. They make a lot of bumper covers, hoods, and fenders for late model cars in fiberglass or carbon fiber. They often have unusual style changes, like this one, which was the 1M look front end but made to fit an E46 M3. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...ront-E46-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G2176-S.jpg We sourced this front end early in the project and mocked it onto the car, but now it was time to mount it properly and add a bumper beam. The Duraflex material is somewhat flexible and easy to work with or modify (mostly it works like fiberglass) and it is also cost effective. It might have worked with the composite M3 front bumper beam but those are still heavy and expensive, so a tubular beam was built using the same 1.75" DOM roll bar material used in the roll cage. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5110597-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5110599-S.jpg Ryan built this beam using the 3 wheeled tubing roller, then built standoffs that bolt to the factory location. There are no "bumper struts", just steel tubing. From this beam he added brackets to bolt dual Setrab oil coolers up front as well. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5250692-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5250699-S.jpg The twin coolers line up with the outer fog light openings in the 1M styled front bumper cover. The rear OEM bumper was replaced with a similar tubular 1.75" dia beam as well. I will show that in a future update. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3305-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8762-S.jpg There was some additional structure added to hold the bumper cover along the lower grill opening. I ordered E46 M3 headlights and corner lights online, I cannot remember where. Ryan taped up the fronts and installed those before I could grab pictures, but they are just stock replacements. WHAT'S NEXT? We are much farther along than this post shows but I am out space so I better wrap it up here. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P8040182-L.jpg Next time I can cover the installation of the carbon fiber hood, the HPR built 7.7L LS engine, T56 Magnum transmission, twin disc McLoed clutch, SFI bellhousing, ARE 4 stage dry sump oiling system, rear wing installation, seat mounting version 3.0, aluminum interior panels/floors, LS7 accessory drives, custom 1-7/8" long tube header construction, and more. Thanks for reading! |
Great read as always. Thanks for updating us!
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Nice work!
I love the attention to detail in your posts and builds. Thanks for sharing. |
Project Update for October 10th, 2017: Much has happened to the M3 V8 CSL project over the past two months. Last time we covered the widebody flare design and construction, fuel cell and dry sump tank mounting and enclosures, Lexan windows, and the custom front bumper beam and 1M style cover.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9875-L.jpg This time we will show the installation of the carbon fiber hood, the delivery and installation of the HPR built 7.7L engine. To that we bolted a T56 Magnum transmission, twin disc McLeod clutch, and an SFI bellhousing. Onto the new motor we attached an ARE 4 stage dry sump oiling system, a hybrid set of LS7/CTS-V front accessory drives, and then Ryan started building a custom set of 1-7/8" long tube headers. We also re-did the seat / floor mounting (version 3), built a bunch of aluminum interior panels/floors, and mounted a giant rear wing with custom uprights and end plates. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9676-L.jpg The engine bay also received a lot of attention. A custom radiator and fans were ordered, brackets were made for a "rolled forward" installation, then custom radiator hoses built. An MSD Atomic manifold and 102mm throttle body were installed - backwards - and a custom dual airbox / cowl induction intake system was then built, with plenum sections extending behind the firewall and under the dash. Continue below to see the behind-the-scenes construction of all of this and more. CARBON FIBER HOOD The minimum weight we are allowed to run this car is fairly low in some series, and to get there we will have to eschew metal body panels for carbon fiber composites - where practical. Of course there are some exterior pieces that are very customized (flares) and it doesn't make sense to "go carbon" there just yet, but the hood, roof, and trunk panels are readily available so we went to AJ Hartman Aero for his motorsports level, lightweight, dry carbon hood to match the roof he supplied us earlier. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7926-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7947-S.jpg The first hood we received suffered some heavy shipping damage - but we purchased that one anyway, fixed it with some carbon fiber repair (shown in the 330 build thread here), and used it on my BMW 330 which I race in NASA Time Trials. With a little bodywork and paint by our friends at Heritage it will look better - hoping to paint this car over the winter break (which is only about 2 weeks long, here in Texas!) https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8177-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3113-S.jpg For this M3 CSL V8 build we wanted to start with an unblemished hood, and the second one arrived (in a crate) with no issues. It looked perfect and was weighed in at an astounding 9.5 pounds! We don't have an accurate weight on an M3 hood, but the original steel hood from my E46 330 was 44.5 pounds. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3111-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3305-S.jpg I can only "one hand" this hood because it is so light, with no glossy gel coat. Many aftermarket "carbon" hoods are made by: start with a fiberglass main structure, then add a thin carbon fiber overlay, then a thick glossy coat of resin on top to make it shiny. These end up being MUCH heavier. The low weight on this "real" dry carbon hood also comes from the fact that about two thirds of the under hood structure is omitted. AJ builds this hood with a second layer of formed carbon fiber underneath to support the OEM style hinges and some of the side structure along the length, but leaves the middle and forward sections without the ribbing. The hood is made of several layers of carbon weave. Using the OEM style hood releases is not possible - because this is a racing part. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7002-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7001-S.jpg The fenders needed adjustment to fit the hood - we bought this rolling chassis with no front sheet metal or hood installed. The OEM "J-clips" were gone so Ryan installed proper nutserts into the upper frame mounting sections. The original fenders from my blue 2001 330 were then tweaked to fit and squared to the front end, all fitted around the carbon hood (top left). One of the old hood hinges was very bent so a new one was ordered and installed (top right). https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G3131-L.jpg After some time re-hanging the fenders (plus slotting some fender mounting holes) and tweaking the hinges, the hood and fenders fit nearly perfectly. We'll let the body shop do the final body gaps perfect, but I'm pretty happy with how it all squared up. Its gonna be a shame to cut a bunch of holes in this hood! https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7967-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...70706_CH-S.jpg Since the twin OEM hood lathes and secondary catch aren't used with this hood we will need to install some AeroCatch hood latches - similar to how this pair shown above went onto my 330 using the same hood. These have functioned great for months without issue on that car, and we have used AeroCatches on many race car builds. Ryan will reinforce the radiator support on the M3 for the two hood pins, just like he did on my 330. SEAT MOUNTING VERSION 3.0 This may seem excessive, to go back for a third time to modify the floor and seat mounts, but its pretty dang critical. We did this round of re-work gratis, as we just were not happy with how the floor structure turned out after lowering the seat. And frankly the seat was too low for the customer. There might be a taller driver that takes laps in this car, but the owner is the primary driver, so we build around him. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_5474-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_5864-S.jpg Cutting out all of the OEM seat reinforcements, the two "risers" that travel from the door sill to the tunnel, weakened the floor structure enough to allow flexing of the floor if we pushed hard enough at the top of the seat. Not good enough. The problem was we were trying to make the seat low enough so his head can NEVER come close to the upper door bars, as this car may be street driven at some Optima events on the "road rally" portion without a helmet. It is ALWAYS tricky to make a safe roll cage for a street driven car. In a dedicated race car it is assumed the driver will always have a helmet on. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9598-L.jpg So now instead of a tubular seat brace that bolts to the thin sheet metal floor, then the side brackets and/or slider bolt to that... Ryan has made this 3D structure of plate steel reinforcements that is similar in layout to the OEM stamped bits - but lower and thicker. The OMP side brackets now bolt to this reinforced structure, which is welded to the non-flat floor along the bottom seam. This new structure now takes up for the funky floor shape, is lower than the OEM reinforcements could allow, and much more rigid and strong than what we had in version 2. HYBRID ACCESSORY DRIVE + DRY SUMP PUMP We normally use the 1998-2002 Camaro LS1 front drive accessories on both our E36 and E46 LS swap kit installs, as these offer the most compact layout of power steering pump, alternator, and water pump without fouling the frame rails or inner fenders. These 4th gen drives do push the pulleys forward in the engine bay more than the Corvette C5/C6 drives, but less than the LS truck drives. For this build we knew we needed a dry sump pump and we wanted to roll the radiator, which could put the bottom of the radiator close to the engine. To make room forward we looked at the C5 and C6 accessory drives for this build, but the traditionally high mounted Corvette alternator would need to move. Plus the power steering pump would need to be deleted. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...es-nandt-L.jpg http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LS...ontDriveConfig The above link from Nook and Tranny is a great resource for LS drive layouts. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...8-engine-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...V-drives-M.jpg You can see the factory C6 Corvette Z06's LS7 engine accessory drive setup above at left and the LS2 CTS-V drives at right. Note the very HIGH and WIDE mounted alternator, common on the C5/C6 Corvette setups. Plus the power steering pump placement for the C6 - which we don't need due to the electric EPAS steering we have added. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5250691-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8884-S.jpg For this M3's accessory drive setup we used a hybrid assortment of parts: the water pump and upper tensioner/idler from a 2010-13 Corvette C6 LS7 and the low mounted alternator and idler pulleys from a CTS-V LS2. Ryan machined a custom spacer, used a threaded hole on the CTS-V alternator bracket, and added a second "smooth" idler pulley near the alternator - the lower one shown in the picture, above right. The Pontiac G8 alternator bracket we used on some other Ls swaps sits in a similar spot but uses different brackets. This second idler helps give enough "belt wrap" around the main balancer pulley for the unusual "power steering delete" belt routing. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7183-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9026-S.jpg We chose the later LS7 water pump, which moves the water neck closer to the driver's side - making a shorter hose run to the radiator. Since we had never done this custom accessory drive layout before, once the final engine was here (with the balancer installed by HPR) a bit of measuring and a couple of belts were tested before the final serpentine belt length was nailed down. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_5907-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_5911-S.jpg While the HPR shortblock was awaiting the CNC cylinder heads, we borrowed the ARE 4 stage dry sump pump temporarily - to make sure we had no interference with the accessory drive bits we planned to use. The dry sump pump fits in the spot where the A/C compressor mounts - low and to the passenger side of the engine. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9026-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9144-S.jpg So this hybrid accessory drive setup gives us the best of both worlds: a low mounted alternator (CTS-V) along with a short drive setup front to back (Corvette). This added room up front with this drive setup will come in handy when we mount the radiator (below). This also opened up the top of the engine bay, near where we will duct the hood later. CUSTOM LONG TUBE HEADERS For an engine this big something larger than our production E46 LS Swap 1-3/4" primary long tube headers were part of the plan. We couldn't wait for the finished HPR 7.7L long block to arrive to begin the custom 1-7/8" primary header fabrication, so a mock-up engine and new accessory drive were installed for the early fab stages. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8637-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8082-S.jpg We were using bends, flanges, and collectors from a new supplier, and there were some... "issues outside of our control" that slowed delivery of the additional parts we needed to finish these for a few frustrating months. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8079-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8114-S.jpg There was also an extremely long delay waiting for a new set of ICE Engine Works modeling bends for this 1-7/8" primary size. After months of waiting we finally punted and used our 1-3/4" (orange) bends to simulate the layout of the tube for the larger tubing size. It slowed things by a bit but Ryan got through the driver's side header. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8657-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8760-S.jpg During one of the extended waits for more bends the custom steering column was completed with this firewall mounted steering shaft bearing. The somewhat large factory hole for the OEM column was closed up, then a new hole was drilled to fit the bolt pattern of the firewall bushing. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8790-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8794-S.jpg While he was working on the firewall, Ryan made a template (above left) then an aluminum panel with a 3D shape (above right) to cover holes in the firewall for the brake booster/master cylinder and a wiring harness. This panel was then covered in DEI reflective gold foil. With that area sorted out, the final section of the header on the driver's side could be built - if we only had supplies. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P9290670-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P9290674-S.jpg A couple of months later we finally had enough matching bends - and the driver's side header is complete. This past week Ryan was on the passenger side header, which will be wrapped up soon. HPR 7.7L LS7 V8 DELIVERED! We ordered a 442" stroker engine for this project last year, before engine builder Erik Koeing moved to a new shop in McKinney, Texas. While instructing for at the School of Automotive Machinists (SAM Tech) he started his own engine shop 2 decades ago. Koeing and I have been friends for 30 years and another business owner friend of mine and I partnered with him to bring his shop to the Dallas area, which we relaunched as HorsePower-Research (HPR). He has been working with LS engines since they were introduced, and the standard deck aluminum block 468" is one of his popular creations. After he was setup in the new shop we changed the 442" build to a 468", changed the cylinder head choice to an LS7 style, and this pump gas fueled, naturally aspirated 7.7L beast was the result. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_5912-M.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_6089-M.jpg This engine started with a dry sleeved, aluminum OEM block with a 4.250" stroke and honed to a 4.185" bore. The forged crank uses HPR's propriety forged rods and pistons, coupled with some block clearancing, to make it all fit. Koenig has built dozens of these 468s for street, drag race and road racing applications - the biggest displacement anyone has safely built inside an OEM LS block. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_6086-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_6088-S.jpg The blueprinted shortblock was assembled with CNC ported, LS7 style cylinder heads made by Texas Speed. A high lift hydraulic roller camshaft was built to Koenig's specs for this pump gas, road course setup. A similar 468" was recently built for an Optima competitor and made 604 whp - with smaller heads, smaller cam, and smaller headers (described here). We're hoping to see 650 whp from this on 93 octane, with the intake manifold we have started with. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_6199-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9018-S.jpg We were excited when the cylinder heads arrived and I could pick up the completed long block. I brought it to Vorshlag for final drivetrain assembly and installation into the M3. RAM CLUTCH + 7.7L INSTALL To deal with 700 ft-lbs of torque we went went with the strongest commercially available 6 speed manual - the Tremec T56 Magnum. This Tremec is rated right at 700 ft-lbs of torque, which we will be testing with this engine. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9040-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9037-S.jpg This build has higher safety levels than most so an SFI rated scattershield was chosen instead of a cast aluminum bell housing. This unit from QuickTime bolts to the T56 Magnum and fits the LS engine. Well... "fits" is a loose term. ;) https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_6535-L.jpg For the clutch we went with a custom version of the Mag Force twin disc setup from McLeod, highly recommended by our transmission supplier. This has a unique Kevlar friction surface that should work well with the standing starts needed for Optima Speed/Stop and Autocross events and still handle the power this 7.7L can dish out on the road course. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9041-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9048-S.jpg Everything was assembled with care, checking torques and sequencing. Once everything was lined up the bell housing was aligned to the centerline of the crank by checking run out with a dial caliper. The twin disc clutch was aligned with a steel alignment tool and the transmission was installed... but it just would not line up. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P8100293-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9121-S.jpg The clutch, flywheel and bell housing were re-aligned and re-checked more than once. Turns out that aftermarket welded scatter shields sometimes don't exactly line up as perfectly as a cast piece that is CNC machined. Using some offset dowels in the block and this scatter shield alignment tool above the QuickTime unit was finally aligned. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8876-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P8100290-S.jpg The McLoed clutch slave/TOB was installed for the final time and the transmission went into the bell housing. The engine/trans was finally ready to go into the engine bay of this M3. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8879-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8885-S.jpg With the front nose and radiator support removed its easy to stick the engine and transmission assembly into the car. We used our production E46 LS swap kit motor mounts and transmission crossmember to line it up in the engine bay. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P8210324-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P8210323-S.jpg The dry sump pump was bolted on once the engine was in the car, to avoid smashing the shiny bits or fittings. The front drive accessories were already installed with the serpentine belt, then the cogged belt went onto the dry sump drive. INTAKE MANIFOLD TESTING + REVERSE MOUNT After talking to Koenig at HPR at length about intake manifolds, he kept stressing how important it was to use the right design for larger displacement (7L+) engines. To keep the engine from peaking too early, and losing all of the top end power, a shorter intake runner length (6.5-7" long) with enough cross section and throttle body size would help. There are many manifolds that have MUCH shorter runners (which kills mid range completely and rarely helps on top in an NA motor) and all too many with OEM style, LONG runners (which shuts off the top end). Not many in the middle... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...y-hi-ram-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_8425-S.jpg One of the few that have runner lengths and TB sizes in the range we wanted was the Holley Hi-Ram, which comes in cathedral, LS3 and LS7 style ports. With an optional 105mm throttle body opening and a 6.5" runner length (which is almost perfectly straight) the Hi-Ram could be worth another 30-50 whp up top. After I found the CAD print (top left) for this I asked Ryan to make a quick cardboard mock-up to check hood height. That was ridiculously too tall, and even flipped 180° to make it a "cowl breather" it was still many inches above the hood line (see above right). Like "making it hard to see" tall. We talked about making a custom intake but it was really time to "get going" so we picked the best OEM style intake on the market for the moment: the MSD Atomic. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9150-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9151-S.jpg Of the OEM style crossover intakes the MSD Atomic LS7 intake has the "least long" runners at 8.5". The 103mm throttle body size is a bit unusual, as the common "big" sizes are 102 and 105mm. Then a lot of those options are cable operated - old school. To work seamlessly with a Motorsports traction control system we went with a Nick Williams 102mm DBW (Drive By Wire) throttle body. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9156-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9157-S.jpg This manifold bolted onto the HPR motor without any drama, and with the TB opening pointed forward it fit under the hood easily. But we're not going to keep this build easy... we wanted to flip the intake manifold 180° to keep the front clear for hood ducting (which we will show in a future installment) and to take in high pressure air at the base of the windshield (cowl). This "little change" unleashed a lot of custom fabrication work.... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8876-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9572-S.jpg First of all, the OEM cast aluminum intake valley cover has an oil pressure riser cast into the back of the motor. You can see the red colored tip of this riser in the image above left. Most LS style intakes have a recessed edge to clear this at the back of the manifold, which can be seen in the image above right. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9158-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9153-S.jpg So to be able to flip this intake around we needed a flat valley cover with this oil pressure sensor riser deleted. This flat billet cover from ICT fit the bill and was an easy fix. This was installed and let us run the MSD Atomic flipped 180°. But as you can see above, there was no room at the firewall for the throttle body. I was hoping the TB might line up with the massive opening left by the cabin air filter structure, but this intake is too low to line up with that. Time to cut... TWIN AIRBOX + COWL PLENUM FAB To make this flipped intake fit we needed to cut the firewall up a little. Well.... OK, a lot. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9336-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P9070608-S.jpg This was the first stage of making a cowl induction intake system. You see with a mostly gutted dash and aftermarket HVAC box mounted elsewhere, and relocated master cylinder and no brake booster, all of a sudden we had a lot more real estate under the dash and at the firewall. So Jason, Ryan and I brain stormed an airbox mounted at the base of the windshield with a flat air filter element. Or two. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9335-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9570-S.jpg To maximize airbox volume we wanted to use a flat element air filter. Due to some space constraints in area, as well as off-the-shelf filter elements and their associated airflow limitations, we needed TWO air filter boxes. So we ordered those up while Ryan started building a plenum at the throttle body. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9420-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9587-S.jpg This box above will attach to the 102mm throttle body and create a certain amount of plenum volume for the engine to draw from. Air will enter through each of the 3" oval openings from the two air boxes. The constraints of the hood and engine placement limited the intakes to these 3" oval sizes. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9556-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9486-S.jpg The 4" opening to the throttle body has a formed bell mouth and the box itself sits up under the dash. Ryan will make another fire proof enclosure to completely surround this and seal the engine compartment away from the passenger cabin/dash area (see below/left) https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9437-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9438-S.jpg Twin air filter boxes were built, one for each side of the engine bay. They are somewhat mirror images but they do have some differences side to side, which are underneath. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9430-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9616-S.jpg These air filter boxes mount to the chassis and then 3" tube and 3" silicone hose couplers route the "cold air" to the throttle body plenum box. Two K&N filters fit snugly into the tops of these air boxes and we will add some additional structure and seals that touch the bottom of the hood soon. These will mate up with two big holes we will cut in the hood to feed these filters. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9686-L.jpg A couple of dozen hours went into the firewall clearancing, layout, plenum box fab and two air box fab work, but it should be more than able to supply this air to engine. This is being fed by a high pressure zone at the base of the windshield, which will help "at speed". And it all will help the Optima Design & Engineering scoring, too. Again, this is really being done to open up the front of the engine bay for hood ducting, to improve downforce on the splitter (soon) and improve cooling on the main radiator. INTERIOR PANELS + STEERING WHEEL Up to this point we haven't shown much of the interior or our plans to make it safe yet pleasing to the eye. Gotta pass muster for D&E - they really punish gutted race cars in Optima, unless some real attempts at "an alternative interior" are made. Initially we just had roll up windows and custom door panels, but the rest was pretty Spartan. All business, no frills, and somewhat ugly. Time to spruce it up in there... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G1529-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_6081-S.jpg This interior was largely gutted when we found it, along with the air bags. The stock HVAC is also too heavy for a build like this, but we did add a compact heater core and blower motor unit that we've used on a number of race cars (just like on the tube frame 69 Camaro build). This 7 pound unit from Summit Racing is cost effective, compact, and much lighter than the OEM parts. This box was mounted under the dash on the passenger side and the outlets will be plumbed to the defroster vents soon. No air conditioning is going to be added - too heavy, and there is no place to drive an AC compressor with a 4 stage dry sump pump in the way. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_6179-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_6155-S.jpg continued below |
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Another Tilton triple reservoir was purchased (also like on the 69 Camaro), which will feed the twin brake and single clutch master cylinder from the OBP floor mounted pedal box. This Tilton unit was mocked up and then mounted on the passenger side. Why have this in the passenger compartment? Three reasons. 1) Being visible to the driver makes it easy to see if fluid LEVELS drop during a session (indicates pad wear or a leak). 2) It makes it easy to fill the fluid levels, not buried down by the floor mounted pedals. 3) It keeps the bulk of the fluid away from heat in the engine bay. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_6169-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9620-S.jpg A few weeks later Ryan went back and made -4 AN braided lines for the reservoir and ran them to each master cylinder. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P7260102-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P7260095-S.jpg The spot your heel rests on at OBP pedal box was tied into a flat, false floor made of aluminum. A formed sheet aluminum dead pedal was also built and tied into the same section. These false floors are commonplace in race cars, and with the unusual non-flat floors of the BMW E46 they are pretty much a requirement if you remove the carpet and massive foam backing. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8824-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9618-S.jpg These were formed from 6061 sheet then dimple die holes were added on the press. We will add grip tape to the surfaces later, to keep your feet from sliding around if they get wet. The passenger side false floor was started but still needs some dimple die work. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9431-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9107-S.jpg We couldn't leave the stock steering wheel in place so we ordered a Sparco wheel and Lifeline quick disconnect hub. This wheel fit the driver's position and has the right covering, and the Lifeline is the best quick disconnect on the market. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P9120623-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9102-S.jpg Window nets might seem a bit extreme for a car with roll up windows, and it is unusual. But for a "street car" this M3 has an unusually high speed threshold, so the safety gear isn't being skimped anywhere. This mesh window net has great visibility but keeps "your arms and hands inside the ride at all times". We will add a center net later as well. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9681-L.jpg A lot of aluminum panels were built, which help fill holes in the dash where the radio, HVAC controls, and stock gauge cluster went. An AiM digital dash, possibly a rear view camera/LCD screen, and the fire pulls and main battery kill will go back into these places. A new set of "Titanium" OEM trim panels was ordered from BMW and installed to fill the gaps between the 2-pieces in the upper and lower dash sections. We will get a little crazier with interior panels and finishes before the car ever does an Optima event, but its already a lot better than the plain "gutted race car" look. continued below RADIATOR INSTALLED + HOSES BUILT Spec'ing the radiator for this project took a little bit of work. This 7.7L motor would need the biggest radiator we could fit in front of the motor. We also wanted to duct the hood and "roll" the radiator forward at the top, so that meant we wouldn't be using an off-the-shelf aluminum E46 radiator. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7142-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_7838-S.jpg I asked Ryan to clear away anything in the way between the frame rails then measure for the widest core we could squeeze in there (27"). The center portion of the lower stamped piece of the radiator support was completely cut out. He then built a cardboard mock-up to verify the max height core possible. Then we had to spec the hose outlets for an LS engine accessory layout, with the suction on the passenger side and water pump outlet on the driver's side. The goal was to shove as much of the radiator forward under the radiator support as possible without running into the front nose or crash beam. Unfortunately the headlights became a limiting factor for forward roll of the radiator, so the bottom of the core was pulled back closer to the balancer, to gain more angle and radiator height room. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5110604-L.jpg The mock-ups and other specs led us to a BeCool 60229 radiator, which was custom ordered back in May. It took a while to be built and shipped here but when it arrived Ryan made brackets to mount it in the layout we wanted. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9156-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9155-S.jpg After the motor was installed with the balancer in place the BeCool unit was mocked-up in the final rolled forward position. Templates for brackets were cut and transferred to aluminum plate, which were cut, drilled and welded to the side tanks of the radiator. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9069-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9076-S.jpg The brackets were drilled for mounting holes that allowed them to bolt to the frame rail. Nutserts were drilled and installed into the frame rails for these mounting bolts, shown below. These initial mounts are bolted directly to the frame but about 1" of room was left to add some isolators. We will do this when we build the ducting, as well as possibly add a secondary set of mounts at the top and/or bottom. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9079-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9090-S.jpg More calculations were done and the slimmest, highest flowing pair of fans that covered the most area of the core were ordered. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9691-L.jpg These Mishimoto Slim 12" electric fans (MMFAN-12) each flow 1150 cfm. A bracket was built along the top and bottom to mount them close to the radiator core. There are more powerful fans in 12" but they were all thicker and could run into parts of the engine. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9511-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9549-S.jpg Some custom radiator hoses were built from HPS silicone hose bends and some mandrel bent and straight aluminum tubing. The front of the radiator core will be ducted to the gill openings at the front and to the hood opening behind it - we will show this later in the build. WANGIMUS MAXIMUS "Big Downforce" is part of the "Bigger is Better" mentality we are applying to many aspects of this build. Of course a giant rear wing was ordered from AJ Hartman Aero - a full 72" wide and with his longest 14" cord. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9045-L.jpg We have installed plenty of rear wings but on a car that could see speeds in excess of 180 mph, it needed to be a bit overbuilt. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8187-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8183-S.jpg After deciding where the uprights would be (and thus the under-mount saddles) we ordered the wing. When it was delivered we played with mounting locations, getting the element where it could "do the most work" - way up high and far back - then Ryan made cardboard mock-ups, which progressed into plate aluminum versions. We had thought about a bent upright, but that was quickly abandoned in mock-up. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8907-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8706-S.jpg We settled on this flat design that would be gripped with a steel U-shaped lower bracket, that could then be bolted to the trunk. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8937-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8938-S.jpg Once these were cut, brackets made, and they were test fit the lower steel brackets were bolted to the trunk lid. The OEM steel trunk lid is very strong but we also extended the lower portion down to touch an adjustable perch onto the tubular rear bumper beam. We will made a "saddle" that looks prettier before paint, but this puts much of the vertical load into this beam and less on the trunk structure. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9628-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8951-S.jpg The trunk can swing open fully and the wing element clears the roof easily. This is due to the rear biased, high mounted placement of the wing element. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8964-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8970-S.jpg The "windows" above were cut out by hand - using a hole saw and jig saw. There are much faster ways to do this using robots... a CNC water jet or plasma table makes this much faster but we didn't have the time to transfer all of this into CAD then run use someone's table. Yes, I need to buy the shop a CNC plasma table... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8971-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_8996-S.jpg The lightened uprights were completed and then endplate designs were tested and tweaked... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P8040182-L.jpg Some details on the image above (red line) have been completed but its the best picture I have of the finish wing currently. Quote:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9582-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9729-S.jpg A massive splitter, the soon-to-be ducted hood, and some other bits will make up the front aero. We just made this front splitter for my 330, but the one for the M3 will be bigger in every way. WHAT'S NEXT? Wow, that was a lot of ground to cover, and I didn't get to everything that's completed. Next time I will show the twin fire systems, chassis wiring that has begun, the fuel system components that have been arriving, and the Motec M1 + wiring harness which is being built by our friends at G-Speed. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9635-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9631-S.jpg The rear differential is now assembled with a Wavetrac LSD and Ford Racing gears, the exhaust headers should be wrapped up soon, and then a driveshaft and exhaust can be built after that is in place. The custom coolant reservoir was just completed, heater hose plumbing has begun, and Ryan is spec'ing out the oil hoses next. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9867-L.jpg This is what the M3 looks like today. Tune in next time to see more progress! Thanks for reading, |
Reeeeaaaaalllly makes me want to get an E46 M3!! Nice work!
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One just cannot take one's eyes away from the "Massacre." I applaud your creativity on this build, as it's both modern, in terms of materials and technology, and classic in terms of the skills (and positive hope) applied to getting them to work. This is the kind of car people (with or without cars) come to see in action. On this level, you guys are definitely winning!
Thank you for your efforts in comprehensively posting. Whether or not things work out perfectly with the car or the manufacturing/workmanship/spitballing is not the point. Ideas can still be awesome and not work perfectly at a particular time, but it's awesome to see the application (and effort). If things do work perfectly (happens all the time, right?), all the better. Thanks for sharing another awesomely crazy build with us!:thankyou: If magazines had stuff like this, the value of paper (print media) could go up again . . . |
Just outstanding.
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Technology and common sense......
^^^^what they said^^^^
....and thanks for the professional pics and text. :trophy-1302: :trophy-1302: |
Thanks for the kind words and feedback, guys. With the automotive forums declining in viewership elsewhere (from things like: the photobucket scandal, a move to phones/social media by "the kids", corporate takeovers of many enthusiast forums), and the time it takes me to document these builds, I often wonder if I should continue to chronicle these car projects. Lateral G gives the best/most feedback, which makes it worthwhile. :) We've even had some folks from here stop by the shop and look at these cars in person.
I also lament the decline of print media - I grew up reading mags like HOT ROD as a kid, got the bug from turning those pages and at a few early wrenching jobs, and at least HR is still going strong. I keep a half dozen subscriptions to my favorite car mags (which we keep in the lobby) and I still hold out hope that there can be a resurgence in this format. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9550-L.jpg This M3 project should be wrapping up fairly quickly, and then 69 Camaro (below) can get more full time attention. I am going to work on that build thread next... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8961-L.jpg I guess these builds kind of foster more of the same, as there is a new Pro Touring Vega project that a customer is bringing in soon. Full custom frame-up build for Goodguys/Optima/CAM use. If the admins allow it, I will continue to share our domestic powered builds here at Lateral G. :thankyou: |
I look to forward to your post, they are magazine quality, but with far more depth of technical explanation. Your fabricator is one the best out there and your quality of workmanship is top tier. The fact that you show every aspect of the builds, with nothing to hide, speaks volumes of your attention to detail...and allows people who don't do this to see just how much is involved in the seemingly simplest things!
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Thanks as always for documenting and sharing all the great work you do! I agree with everyone else's sentiments. Your work is outstanding and sharing your knowledge/struggles is very much appreciated! Cannot tell you how much time it took me to mount seats in my car and it's still not right, lol.
Dave |
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Terry, please keep posting. I/we love these builds and posts. I know it's time consuming to put it all together. It's greatly appreciated. |
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I need to go look then. I'm having to skip the Camaro update because I'm just trying to finish my coffee and get to moving to my new house. I can't waste time drooling.
Thanks for the update, Jason. |
Terry said "Vega." Was anybody listening? Didn't anyone here get dragged to drag races in the early '80s (or go via free will) and just freak out on all the Monzas and Vegas doing wheelies and making crazy noise? Didn't you get your eyebrows and nose hairs singed by the jet dragsters? My father did this to me, and it stayed in my mind, much like the first BMX bike that had me "landing" a jump into a rose trellis on my first day of ownership. My mother had a weird Vietnam vet boyfriend who had a Vega, and when I asked him to spin out (stupid idea), he quickly agreed (injury resulted); it sucked, because his Vega didn't have a V8, and he did it in reverse, like a half-arsed Rockford, but whatever . . .
A Vega would be the perfect "old days" (not a Chicago reference, unless you make it that way) reference to this period, but better, since the thing would turn and stick with pro-touring cojones. Speak up, Dave G. Encourage this weirdness! :gitrdun: Quote:
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I try to contain my excitement as three Vorshlag builds all going on at the same time might just cause me to pass out.
A modern IMSA style Vega would be awesome. I'd say it would make a good counter to that V10 Mustang II built by A-Team Racing. |
Project Update for January 23rd, 2017: Vorshlag got super busy over the past 3 months, so I am behind on build thread updates, but this project has been moving steadily along. Ryan has been plugging away on this M3 for 3 out of every 4 weeks since, and there is a lot to show here: Two fire systems, the custom headers finished, the 8.8" diff built and installed, fuel injectors and lines installed, oil lines build, chassis wiring, coolant reservoir + plumbing, battery kill, coils and plug wires, fuel cell installed, driveshaft built, interior panels, and brake inlets, whew!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0771-L.jpg I am going to speed up a bit and show fewer pictures for each task, unless it is super unique or interesting. Let's catch up this build in what is probably our last update before we fire the engine up! FORD 8.8" DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING BUILD & INSTALLED Normally we would tell E46 guys to just use the 210mm "large case" diff unit from the E46 M3, which can probably handle 600 ft-lbs of torque. As I mentioned before we wanted to build an aluminum 8.8" ring gear IRS housing strong enough to deal with 700 ft-lbs of torque. This Ford sourced unit is lighter, stronger, and has more cost effective options for gearing and differentials than anything ever offered by BMW. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB271182-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0515-S.jpg This unit uses the custom steel rear cover shown in previous updates which bolts into the E46 M3 rear subframe. The front of the subframe was modified to use the two forward bushing mounts on the front of the Ford unit, with aluminum bushings we machined in-house. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9433-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9544-S.jpg We chose the Wavetrac 31 spline 8.8" differential for this project. Wavetrac's torque biasing design is the only Torsion style differential made to work in no- or near no-load conditions (if a tire is lifted). The helical 9310 steel gears run in case-hardened billet steel case built with ARP fasteners. They are maintenance free and should perform a lifetime of service without maintenance or rebuilds (has a transferable, Limited Lifetime Warranty). We told them what we had in mind - a life of torque pushing 700 ft-lbs through 345mm Hoosiers - and they said "no problem", so we set up Vorshlag as a Wavetrac dealer. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9352-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...65_cover-S.jpg Several calculations were made to come up with a final gear ratio of 3.73:1, and of course we only use Ford Racing ring and pinion parts + Ford bearings. These were assembled into the freshly bead blasted and then thoroughly cleaned aluminum 8.8" Ford IRS housing. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB020941-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9635-S.jpg A "set-up" bearing was installed on the pinion with a pre-crushed sleeve to shim and setup the ring and pinion depth, until Aaron saw the right pattern. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P9290675-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9510-S.jpg The side bearings were installed and shimmed with zero pre-load on the housing to get back-lash within range. Then Aaron built this tool to spread the aluminum housing... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0315-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0256-S.jpg This spreader tool allowed him to then add .006" of pre-load on the side bearings for proper installation on the aluminum housing. There are some tricks to setting up the aluminum 8.8" IRS housing correctly... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0582-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0591-S.jpg The side axle seals were added and the unit was installed into the chassis. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0587-L.jpg I will end this section with the shot above, showing the 8.8" housing, SPL Parts lateral arms with sphericals, and big fattie 345mm Hoosiers. This setup should be able to handle all the torque the 7.7L engine can throw at it. OFFSET SHIFTER, SHIFT BOOT, HANDLE & KNOB When we designed our LS swap kit for the E46 chassis we built it around the still somewhat common 1998-2002 F-Body Tremec T56. This OEM trans was rated at 400 ft-lbs of torque, which was OK when LS motors made 300-350 hp. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G8876-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9432-S.jpg For this car we went straight to the T56 Magnum - which shares almost nothing with the OEM T56. The Magnum has 700 ft-lbs of torque rating, but the shifter is about 1.5" farther forward. The shifter that comes with the Magnum is shown sitting atop the tunnel in the pic above right. We used an SFI rated scattershield from QuickTime as well. Safety is important on this build. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0324-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9681-S.jpg The stock round shifter opening is pretty far back relative to the Magnum's shifter placement, so Ryan cut out the tunnel to expose the opening for this trans, then made an aluminum plate to cover it all up. To this he mounted the aluminum base for the Joe's Racing shift boot attached (see above at left). This includes a heat shielded Nomex shift boot (just sitting over the console opening, above at right) which snaps in place to the provided aluminum base, making for a fire / fume / heat barrier between the underside of the trans tunnel to the cabin. We use these Joe's shift boots on everything. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9654-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9653-S.jpg The Joe's Racing boot will hide under the OEM center console plastics (which are shown above without the boot) and underneath a second, OEM shift boot. The included Tremec shifter put the lever a bit too far forward to be able to re-use the factory center console. For a race car its no big deal but this car has to "look right" for Optima, so we ordered a McLeod offset shifter to fit the Magnum. This custom built unit has 1" right and 3" rear offsets. The images above show the McLeod shifter in place - notice the handle stub lines up with the old "round" shift hole opening. We've used these shifters on previous builds like this when the shifter doesn't line up with some OEM console pieces. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0401-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...hiftknob-S.jpg Once the McLeod shifter was in place a simple Hurst handle and 6-speed patterned black knob were added, then an OEM E46 M3 BMW Alcantara shift boot snapped into the OEM center console from above. This is the "pretty" shift boot to cover up the race parts underneath. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0405-L.jpg That's the finalized shifter sitting in the OEM center console, above. Took a bit of work to get it all to line up but the shift feel is great and the McLeod unit has adjustable shift stops to prevent over-engagement. If the shift lever length isn't comfortable for the owner we will buy or make another arm, and the same goes for the knob. FUEL RAILS BUILT & INJECTORS INSTALLED, MSD MODIFIED https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9676-L.jpg The MSD Atomic intake manifold is one ugly cuss of a cast Nylon unit, bit it outflows the other "OEM height" intakes for big displacement LS engines (including the FAST), and it will fit under the stock height hood. One other oddity is that the shape does not clear any aftermarket fuel rails. From anyone. We wouldn't consider using an OEM fuel rail on a build like this - both from a performance and aesthetics stand point. the OEM fuel system is made for a return-less style routing, which is another "Hard Pass". https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_9963-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB271189-S.jpg After wasting a good bit of time reaching out to companies who sell custom fuel rails (none of which had tackled the MSD yet) we settled on the same Holley extruded rails we use on a lot of LS builds. Ryan marked them for clearance around the various lumps and bumps in the MSD Atomic and handed them to Tim, who chucked these up in our CNC mill and got to work... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0537-L.jpg Instead of mapping the cut-outs and programming the job in CAM software, then cutting each rail in CNC mode, Tim used the Digital Read Out and manually moved the cutter to clear away metal where Ryan marked. Each rail was milled in an area that isn't critical for strength or fluid / pressure containment, as shown above. It was a bit of a pain but with an end mill with a DRO you could do the same in about an hour. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0508-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0507-S.jpg The images above show the rails mocked up with some injectors, which puts the rails at their final height. Ryan then built custom brackets to attach the rails to threaded bossed in the intake manifold at those heights. The top right pic shows clearance around some of the weirdly shaped humps in the MSD Atomic. Now about those injectors... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0302-L.jpg The tuner we are working with to build the Motec M150 ECU and engine harness wanted us to use the Bosch Motorsports based Injector Dynamics set. But at $1000/set it was making my eye twitch! Even if it is not my money, I still try to look out for our client's budget. We investigated some other brands, made some calls, and then I went with DeatschWerks. Their 16U-00-0065-8 injectors flow 65 lb/hr (700 cc @ 3 bar), have an EV14 plug, LS3/LS7 injector height, and also use Bosch Motorsports parts. They cost about half as much as the IDs but are built with the same housings and coils. I liked them so much we became a dealer and you will see more of these on our other builds, like my C6 Z06 (aka: #Rampage). https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0758-L.jpg Of course there is a frenzy that stirs up around certain sacred items and beloved brands, and when you ask "what injectors should I use" online it damn near breaks the internet. DW has the same Motec flow data for the tuner to use for EFI tuning, and if they work, they work. I don't get the hate, but I suppose I do the same thing around certain shock brands, so what can I say? #KoniTriggered https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PC203480-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0725-S.jpg Before the MSD Atomic intake was final installed the hole for the MAP sensor had to be drilled. There are a couple of optional locations cast into the upper housing for this sensor (even the old LS1 EGR location), with a threaded boss for each. Ryan picked the one at the "back" of the intake, which will be at the front of this engine bay, and fitted the sensor in place. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0986-L.jpg This MAP sensor location will connect to the Motec harness being built for this car. VALVE COVERS, COILS AND PLUG WIRES Not a lot of high tech here. Seriously, there's no need to spend thousands on coils or plug wires for any LS or LT V8. Just use good, proven brands that fit your engine's specifics. This ignition system is light years ahead of what the OEMs used even in the early 1990s. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9577-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9578-S.jpg When it came to coils I wasn't sure it was even worth using something other than stock replacement units (of which there are 5 distinctly different styles for LS engines), which can be bought for as little as $30/each. With EIGHT coils - one for each plug - there isn't a lot of stress on the ignition coil. These have a long time to saturate with high voltage before it fires it's one spark plug every two rotations. For this build I went a little further and bought MSD branded replacement coils, which were not that much more. We need D&E points for Optima, and "favorably branded" parts don't hurt. https://photos.smugmug.com/Customer-...DSC_3002-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Customer-...DSC_3053-S.jpg We have had really good experiences with Holley Group parts, and MSD is a part of that. Naturally we went with Holley valve covers, too (polished aluminum units slightly taller than stock). These have integral mounts for one of the LS coil shapes, so we don't have to use the ugly black steel coil mounting brackets made for OEM valve covers. This engine bay needed a little bling. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/.../241-111-L.jpg I had spec'd Holley valve covers out for another BMW LS swap a year earlier, but they didn't fit the E36 chassis they were going into. They went back in their box until we needed them for this E46 build - which has a 2" wider engine bay than the E36. We also picked up Taylor 409 series 10.9 mm plug wires and DEI heat sleeves. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0755-L.jpg The Taylor plug wires come in a variety of boot angles and colors, as do the DEI sleeves, but for this build we went with all black. The NGK plugs are now connected to the coils, which are mounted to the Holley valve covers for a nice, tidy look. REMOTE COOLANT RESERVOIR I never trust the itty bitty plastic reservoirs on BMW E46 coolant systems (I've had two fail on track in two different 330s!), but instead I like to see a larger, remote mounted reservoir set high in the engine bay with as much volume as possible. Usually that means at the back of the engine bay, opposite the brake master cylinder, which is the highest part of the engine compartment. That corner usually has plenty of room. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9600-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9623-S.jpg On this build of course we have one of the twin air filter boxes taking up that space, so I asked Ryan to utilize the space in the right front corner of the engine bay. He whipped up this custom reservoir out of cardboard mock-ups and turned it into an aluminum welded tank. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9617-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9621-S.jpg If you look closely at the image above left you can see that it ties into some OEM bracketry in that corner, for a bolt-in application. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_9962-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_9961-S.jpg Once we were happy with the shape and placement a few more items were ordered, including an aluminum weld-on radiator filler neck and some steam vent ports from TFS (made for AN lines). A number of aluminum weld-on AN bungs were also procured for lines that connect to the reservoir. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9631-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9632-S.jpg You can see the finished reservoir above, with the filler neck and welded bungs for AN lines. We used a 16 psi, lever-style pressure release cap. If this cap isn't deemed pretty enough for D&E, we will find some billet doo-dad with some shiny colors. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0728-L.jpg The various coolant lines were later built to connect to the reservoir, steam lines, and heater core hoses to the Motorsports defroster mounted under the dash. I will show this in more detail later, but the cooling system is plumbed. MAIN BATTERY KILL One thing virtually all race cars are required to have is a main battery kill. If you see the "magic smoke" being released from your car's wiring (it only comes out once!) or if you have any type of racing crash / incident / fire, you are supposed to hit that button first! But gone are the days of the $25 electro-mechanical kill switches, which have a high failure rate and require high amp cables to be strung near the driver's switch. Even the solenoid relay style kill switches still have moving parts that can fail. Now there is something better. https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...03RCrVmy-L.jpg The solid state electronic "battery isolator" units from CAR TEK out of the UK are a slick, safe, and FIA approved solution. This page shows the evolution of the kill switch. We saw how much US suppliers were marking these up so we purchased a bunch of these and became a dealer. We have used them in the past and will be putting these on everything... https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...B61G0933-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...B61G0941-S.jpg There are two main models from CARTEK. The "GT" model shown above kills the engine by taking in a fixed 12v input and sending a 12v output that would power your Ignition or ECU. When the negative side of the battery has been disconnected it will also cut the 12v output powering your Ignition or ECU. This will kill the engine. Designed for cars with Standard ECU’s or Historic Race cars. These can be wired with one or two remote kill switches, which have integral LED lights inside the button. https://photos.smugmug.com/Product-P...titled-1-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0378-S.jpg The "XR" unit we chose for this build is made to trigger a Motorsports ECU (like the Motec M150 we are using) or PDU. The "XR" unit is newer and does not have a power input or power output. Instead it sends a signal which is wired to either a Power Distribution Module or Motorsport ECU that has an ignition switch signal input. The ECU or PDU will then shut down when it sees this signal - which then kills the engine. The XR also features a 0.5 sec time delay between transmitting the engine kill signal and disconnecting the battery, allowing the ECU time to perform a shutdown sequence before electrical power is lost. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0991-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB141004-S.jpg It was a relatively easy hookup, with the XR unit placed in the trunk area on a panel Ryan built near the Odyssey PC80 battery. Two kill switches were added with one mounted on the dash and the other out the driver's side window area, so a corner worker could disable the power if the driver was incapacitated. TWIN FIRE SYSTEMS INSTALLED This car is being built with serious safety in mind, to match the serious performance it will be capable of. To take it to the next level we built this car with two separate fire systems. And each system has two cables - for multiple locations. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0980-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0978-S.jpg One Aqueous Foam (AFF) fire suppression system is plumbed for the engine bay, where most of the fire situations break out on a race car. If there is evidence of smoke from underhood and the driver has the right mindset and training he can pull that release handle (only) and snuff out the fire without filling the passenger compartment with foam. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB141018-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0479-S.jpg If something is on fire in the cabin the driver can grab that handle - or both - as he is bailing out. We have dual pulls for each bottle, too... with a pair for each system on the center of the dash (driver) and a pair outside the driver's window (corner worker, or driver after he bails out!) https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0992-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0993-S.jpg These were cabled with the included cables that came with each fire system from Lifeline. The secondary cables were purchased from a local bike shop and added to each pull handle on the bottles. Each pull will be marked clearly and boldly, but if in doubt - pull 'em both! I will cover these again when they are plumbed to show the nozzle detail in my next post. FUEL CELL ARRIVES & INSTALLED, FUEL SYSTEM BUILT One more safety aspect is finally wrapped up, and boy this one was a major task! You saw the creation of the fuel cell enclosure and then the firewall structure around that, but when we sent the drawing off to be quoted by "the companies everyone uses" we had a heart attack with their quotes. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0485-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0399-S.jpg A few years ago we found Harmon Fuel Cells. They had some BMW cells that we thought we could use in our standard swap cars, but this one was going to be custom. So we sent them the drawings and enclosure to quote. Their ballistic kevlar FIA approved fuel cell with an integral surge tank and twin Walbro 450 pumps was HALF the cost of the "name brand" fuel cell. This was an eye opener! https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_9527-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0482-S.jpg The reasons we got for the high quote were "time and materials" to make the custom cell, but Harmon seemed to use the same materials and got it done for less, with all of the right FIA markings. I'm now a fan of this brand, especially for custom cells. The twin pump sump looks good and should keep this engine fed with fuel down to the last drop. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0979-L.jpg The fuel cell is now mounted in the car's back seat, the lower section of the firewall enclosure is mounted, and Ryan is plumbing the fuel system from the cell to the engine bay. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0983-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0982-S.jpg continued below |
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The AN braided lines switch to aluminum tubing under the car, to protect them from fire / cutting / off road adventures. The feed line is a -8 and the return is -6. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P1173640-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0984-S.jpg Most of the fuel system is completed when I write this in January, with just a few items left to plumb this week. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P1173639-L.jpg One of the craziest parts of the fuel system is this Injector Dynamics F750 fuel filter with optional pressure and temperature sender. It has pressure differential meter on board, drain, integral mount, it is all made from 100% CNC machined aluminum. The point that really matters: it has a replaceable filter element. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0916-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0917-S.jpg This was something G-SPEED insisted on for use with the Motec and cost a staggering $550. For a fuel filter. But these sensors are what they wanted for pressure and temp signals, so on it went. When you see it fist hand, the fitted foam box and the jewel like fit and finish, you can see where the cost comes in. HYDRAULIC PARKING BRAKE INSTALLED The OEM rear disc brakes on most modern cars use an integral drum brake inside the "hat" of the 1-piece cast iron rotor. The drum is actuated by the parking brake lever and locks the wheel when parked. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G2069-L.jpg Well the Powerbrake 350mm 4piston rear brake uses a 2-piece rotor with an aluminum hat. Like the Stoptech Trophy and almost all other Motorsports brake kits they do not have a provision for a parking brake. But for Optima use this car needs one. We did some research... https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9664-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_9677-S.jpg We found that obp Motorsport out of the UK makes a hydraulic, stand-alone parking brake handle, mostly used in the drifting world. These also have a lockable setting for use as a hydraulic parking brake. I ordered the one Ryan spec'd and ... they shipped the wrong style, above, which is made for drifting. So now I own that one. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0429-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0428-S.jpg I re-ordered the same part number and the second time they sent the right style, which can be configured to allow the handle to lie flat - like the stock unit. Stop the car, pull up the handle, engage the lock, and you have locked the rear brakes for parking. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0526-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0631-S.jpg Ryan built a bracket, mounted the E46 "console delete" center console, built a cover for the cup holders, and it covers the obp handle nicely. We will show the plumbing of this in a future post. 1-7/8" LONG TUBE HEADERS COMPLETED These custom headers should have been done months earlier but we had a series of delays on parts, tools, and equipment that is too long to list. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0753-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0797-S.jpg After the ICE Engine Works 1-7/8" header modeling kit arrived in November and then the Argon flow meter regulator arrived in December the last few bends could be finished. continued below |
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https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0798-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0801-S.jpg Then each tube could be sealed off, back purged with Argon, and fully seam welded. Once each tube was leak free it was then welded into the flanges and collectors. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0813-L.jpg Ryan even installed the "cones" inside the merge collectors, for that last little bit of flow. The headers were quickly installed shortly after being final welded, so I didn't get the "glamor shots" they deserved. But no matter - they are done! DRIVESHAFT BUILT & INSTALLED We measured for a custom driveshaft to fit this E46 with a T56 Magnum and the 8.8" diff housing. When we went to install it, we found we had left the factory brackets for the 2-piece BMW propshaft's center bearing and they were in the way of the fat 3" diameter aluminum driveshaft. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0776-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0784-S.jpg A little spot weld drilling and some cutting removed the offending brackets, which we didn't need in any case. Much bigger diameter driveshaft stuffed up as high as possible to give exhaust clearance in this tunnel. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0821-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0830-S.jpg With the newly acquired input flange for the pinion added (per our driveshaft company's recommendation for the torque this unit will see) the driveshaft was bolted in place. One step closer to moving under its own power. OIL LINES BEING BUILT With an external, 4-stage dry sump oil pump, remote oil tank, twin oil coolers, and a breather tank this car will need a lot of oil lines run over the course of weeks. Since we are already a dealer for Fragola, and to save some time, we did not farm this plumbing work out like we sometimes do. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0782-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1017-S.jpg Ryan designed an oil system routing and made us a parts list, then we ordered a boat load of AN fittings, hoses ends, and hose. After various components were mounted the hoses were built one by one, tested, and installed. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0815-L.jpg Instead of boring you with a lot of step by step pictures of hoses being made, let's move on. CHASSIS WIRING Speaking of exciting, let's look at a bunch of pictures of custom chassis wiring! I have dozens! https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB141006-L.jpg I'm kidding, of course. Not many people like working on automotive wiring, much less building it, or watching it being built. But we do have a lot of pictures of this progress to show the customer as this work stretched out for a bit. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0989-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0677-S.jpg continued below |
continued from above - last one!
But seriously though, the work done in this area by Ryan was over the top. What started with a Painless 26 circuit harness has turned into a work of art. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0977-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...PB201062-S.jpg The main wiring panel was built onto a false floor aluminum panel in the passenger foot well. All of this is hidden under another panel, shown above right, for a clean look - and to keep feet away from wires and components. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0994-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0996-S.jpg Lots of components are hidden under the dash or elsewhere and everything is noted in detailed wiring diagrams, kept within a binder. We are using Deutsch Connectors and pins for every connection, except for a handful of OEM connectors. Ryan was ringing out circuits today, bumping windows and lights with a tester, and the chassis wiring is almost complete. BRAKE INLET DUCTS BUILT The front end on this car was made from a hybrid 1M / E46 bumper cover made by Duraflex in a fiberglass-like composite. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G9867-L.jpg Some might not like the look now but once the front wheel fairings are built and the splitter installed I think it will make more sense. It fit the look the owner was going for, but didn't really have a great location for front brake inlets. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P5250697-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P1113615-S.jpg Early on in the project Jason worked with Ryan when he was mounting the bumper cover to show him where we wanted to pull brake cooling air from - a high pressure section of the lower grill area. The two outer openings were then utilized for twin oil coolers, as shown above left. The brake ducts were recently built and fitted to the triangular sections shown above right. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P1113600-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1023-S.jpg Sometimes you get lucky and the OEMs make a nice, tapered funnel that necks down to a 3" or 4" round section you can slip a brake cooling hose over, but not this time. We decided on 4" cooling to deal with the speeds and brake heat load this car should be capable of. Ryan made the outer panel then transitioned this to a 4" round aluminum tube for the hose to fit over. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...1G0871_2-L.jpg He makes it look easy but there was some time and skill that went into these inlets. We will add the 4" hose after the final oil plumbing is completed, but room was left to clear all of that and for the route to the front wheels. The brake backing plates were made months earlier. WHAT'S NEXT? Whew, that was longer than I thought it would be! What's next? Well last week Corey and Louis from G-SPEED stopped by to measure the engine bay for their custom Motorsports engine harness they are building to fit a Motec M150 ECU. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G0979-L.jpg With this mapped out they are building the harness now for delivery soon. The last bits of plumbing and chassis wiring will be tidied up and then Ryan will move to the front splitter, wheel fairings, and rear diffuser. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN0963-S.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1024-S.jpg And the exhaust system is already being built as well. Gonna sound good, and will exit through the diffuser. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...B61G1085-L.jpg More soon! |
Thanks Terry! Reading an update from you on a Friday night after a long week at work is a great way to spend my time. Now, I'm off the watch Grand Tour. Keep up the great work, guys!
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I always appreciate detailed well photographed posts. Especially of well prepped race cars. Thanks for putting in the effort.
Really good stuff on the power cutoff as well, that whole scheme with the power cutoff switch always bothered me especially once the alternator was wired in. GIf you did it right you had giant power cables routed not just to the outside switch but a driver switch as well, seemed more dangerous than not having hte switch sometimes. |
Project Update for August 9th, 2019: You could say I am a little behind on build thread updates. We had a bit of a delay in 2018 when we moved out of our old shop, moved into the shop we built, and finished construction after we moved in. We went months without any "billable shop work" during that period, but we got back into the groove in Fall 2018. Then the main fabricator that worked on this car from the beginning left, but we got another man on the job, and kept it moving forward. So in the 18 months since my last post in this thread we had some delays, but the M3 V8 build kept going - lots of detail work was finished, the aero was completed, the the Motec M150 was installed and dyno tuned, and we even test drove the car on track, then tweaked and tested some more.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_1980-L.jpg To further our "forum" delay, we also had a total forum outage in 2019 that lasted nearly 3 months - a server update happened, which made our version of vbulletin obsolete, so we had to update that, then move to a faster server, then fought with some DNS name server issues. But by late July 2019 we had our forum back up, which is where we write and edit all of these forum build thread updates - that get pushed out to the forums we support. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/..._D4A6298-L.jpg So all of my tardy update excuses are out of the way, and we have a couple of current 2019 teaser shots to show this car on track above. Now let's get caught up as much as we can in this post, covering late 2017 to early 2018 work. MORE ON DRY SUMP OIL HOSES AND LINES Last time I showed the start of the oil hoses and lines that are part of this 4 stage dry sump system. Since we built this we have tested, tweaked, and learned a lot about this system. Needless to say, a belt driven dry sump system is a complex, costly system with a lot of hoses getting oil to and from the remote oil tank, to the ARE dry sump pump, as well as through the remote oil filter and twin oil coolers. Also, being a part of Horsepower-Research (an engine shop that is about 5 miles from Vorshlag), which sells and installs a lot of ARE, Daily, Aviad and other dry sump oiling systems, has taught me a lot. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1015-S.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1019-S.jpg This 4 stage ARE pump sucks oil from the ARE oil pan (which is a funky shape) through 3 stages, goes through the pump (suction side), has a run back to rear, through the Spintric III oil/air separator, and into the oil settling tank. Above was where we were last time, routing the hoses and making the aluminum hard lines. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2983-S.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2987-S.jpg This pair of pictures shows the current setup. The "RETURN" line comes from the combined 3 suction stages, pushes oil back to the oil settling tank. This actually routes through the optional Spintric oil-air separator (shown above left) and that feeds oil into the TOP of the oil tank. Inside the oil tank are several "settling screens" or baffle plates inside that help the oil "settle" from foamy back to liquid form. As it goes through this cycle it works its way back to the bottom of the tank and out to the "RETURN" line, into the pump's pressure stage. The pressure stage then feeds oil back into the engine, as shown in the image above right. Hopefully the labels help make sense of all of this. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_4225-S.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...P3224005-S.jpg Inside this rear "enclosure" are the ARE oil settling tank (massive, tall unit), plus you can see the ARE breather to the left. We have actually moved this breather tank to the trunk, and mounted it much higher. This move was after a lot of testing and calls to the folks at ARE and some help from Erik at HPR. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1017-S.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSCN1021-S.jpg Getting the oil back and forth to the rear mounted oil tank was tricky, too. These long-ish runs to the rear mounted oil tank made it worthwhile to go from flex lines to 3/4" aluminum tubing for the runs under the car. There are 3 main lines going back and forth: from suction side of pump to tank, from tank to the pressure stage of the pump, and one vent line. We found out during dyno and track testing that we do not need that vent line - it caused more trouble than it solved - but I will cover that in a future update. A reader on one of the forums where this build thread is posted asked about the aluminum tubing, so I went out and took some pictures of the tubing and bender we used on this build. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2980-L.jpg The aluminum tubing we used for the long runs of the oil lines to and from the dry sump oil tank is 3/4" OD. This stuff is common, lightweight, and inexpensive. It also comes in numerous wall thicknesses, but even the thinnest wall (.049") is pressure rated at 1300 psi. The aluminum tubing is lighter, less costly, and less bulky for these long runs than the braided hose. We convert from hard to soft line at a bulkhead connector at the ends of each run. Of course if you keep the dry sump tank closer to the engine you can avoid these long runs. The ends of the tubing are flared for 37° JIC fitting, with a tube nut and sleeve attached before flaring. That picture in the inset above is pretty self explanatory, but you can always look up "tube nuts and sleeves" to see what to get and where. All of the major fittings suppliers can source these parts and the tubing. We stick with Fragola, which is made in the USA. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2981-L.jpg The 3/4" oil line tubing was bent with our RDB-25 Baileigh manual tubing bender. We bought this $295 kit specifically to do these small diameter plumbing bends as well as some small diameter structural tubing on some cars. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...DSC_3569-L.jpg There are some 1" and smaller tubing sections we use in areas that we would prefer to crumple in a crash, to avoid wadding up a chassis or roll cage. This '69 Camaro front nose has some of that smaller tubing in place. We also have mandrels for our JD2 tubing bender down to 1" OD, which come in handy for this small stuff too. https://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2044-S.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Projects/...IMG_2108-S.jpg Back to the oil lines. So there are a lot of these hoses and tubing on this car, and a big batch of them run along the driver's side behind the strut. The extreme steering angle of a SLR Racing control arms (more on that later) made us create a "shield" around the back side of the LF wheel well. We also limited the steering rack with spacers, and it still has a lot more turning angle than stock. continued below |
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