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Very nice build, keep up the good work!
Torqstorm |
I had hinted at why the chassis cross bars were mounted above the frame rails earlier. The cab has two raised areas in the floor that the tubes line up with. This allows maximum exhaust clearance through the center section. Might even try to incorporate additional cab mounts and seat mounts into them. If you've been paying attention you've seen a couple different pics of engine set back options. I think "The Sweet Spot" has been found, see pic for measurement.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2017/12/..._080158.md.jpg Getting the cab and bed perfectly aligned has proven to be next to impossible without bedsides. Started cutting up these brand new bed sides so we can raise the bed floor. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2017/12/..._073550.md.jpg It's kinda hard to see what's going on here. This is the piece that was cut and removed from the bed side. It is now mounted into position on the bed floor. The driver side will be the same except where the gas filler is currently mounted. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2017/12/..._125606.md.jpg |
My small piece of advice on EPAS is to use the most robust u-joints you can find in the steering shaft post-EPAS. I wore out some nice woodward joints very quickly. I notice the Borgeson joints are one size larger so they might be fine. I didn't get a chance to confirm as I converted over to a Ron Sutton setup with a new Sweet hydraulic rack. I had hydraboost so I wasn't able to drop the P/S pump anyway.
But the Vue box worked well for me otherwise on 285's on the front of a '68 Mustang although I never put stickies on it or took it on course while I had it. |
What RPMs are you guys planning on spinning that engine?
Nice work so far! |
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On a sidenote: How much power does your FD make at the wheels? That car has gotta be so much fun on the street. |
Slowly making progress on mounting the bed sides. I cut a fairly big strip out first and then just trimmed little by little in order not to cut too much. It is a long process but the fitment was perfect. The goal was to keep the factory internal bed body lines for looks and strength. Just kinda sandwiched them closer together. The inner panel will require a little more work once I get the main structure together.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/..._072810.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/..._125847.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/..._075716.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/01/..._125816.md.jpg |
Working on the back panel of the bed.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/..._162056.md.jpg Step one of turbo placement has begun. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/..._095251.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/..._131223.md.jpg View from outside the fender. Definitely going to need a close out panel to keep tire debris off. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/02/..._131201.md.jpg |
Been trying to get the bed back to a solid piece for safe removal. Made some closeout panels for the outer structure and fitted them up this morning.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._080230.md.jpg Made a cardboard template (oversized of course so I could trim to fit) https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._125922.md.jpg .050" panel cut and ready https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._080338.md.jpg So I kinda skipped a picture/step here. I cut a few slits in the lip and rolled the edge before laying the new panel in place. The top is butt welded, the bottom is laid inside of the lip. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._125805.md.jpg This should at least hold the structure in place so I can remove the bed, disassemble and fully weld on a bench (comfortably). |
Yanked the bed off yesterday and mounted the driver's side turbo.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._145622.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._145829.md.jpg I spy Efrain's car. It's now time to start figuring out where things are going to go. Air tanks, compressors, solenoids, lines, batteries, coolers, exhaust, etc https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/03/..._145802.md.jpg |
This is coming together nicely.
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Slowly getting to the rear suspension. The Torque Arm will work as is, with slight modification to the cab. The link arms will need to be shortened. We're not going to use this 12 bolt but it already has the bracketry so it helps with mock up. The problem is the 12 bolt is roughly 1/2" shorter at the pumpkin than a 9" so I have to account for that.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._132913.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._132939.md.jpg From this angle you can see that the axle bracket hangs to far behind the axle. We need to bring the flange area closer to the back of the axle tube to gain clearance for the panhard bar. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._132928.md.jpg I've hinted at the idea that there won't be much room under the hood. The radiator is roughed in. It's likely too wide, since at current placement the tire will actually interfere at full lock. Once the inner panels are constructed there really won't be much room at all. The cardboard box is a rough intercooler size. Dual inlets, one on each top/side, with a center outlet on the bottom that goes under the radiator. Radiator fan outlets will be routed out of the hood. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._133840.md.jpg |
The intake manifold sits pretty high so the dash and firewall will be 'Interesting'. I had already planned on cutting the firewall off and building a new one. The bottom side of the cowl will also have to be cut in oder to clear the plenum.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._152311.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/09/IMG_2362.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/09/IMG_2363.md.jpg |
This is turning out to be an interesting ride.
I know one thing, I'll never be able to fit in the cab. I have really long legs and have enough trouble driving a stock one without the tank behind the seat! |
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Took a stab at videoing myself. The lighting is terrible and my editing software had some glitches. Otherwise, I think it came out pretty good. I am already shooting b-roll for episode 2, including the engine build, rear suspension design/assembly and removing the drip rails.
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I feel so scatter brained lately. I seem to be jumping from project to project. I started removing the drip rails and then ran into a little problem. So I moved back to finish welding the bed.
I had planned on doing the drip rail removal a small section at a time. This helps keep the roof structure from distorting. I worked the door areas first and all went pretty easily. Unfortunately, when I cut the front section I realized real quick that the roof skin doesn't line up with the windshield surround. Basicaly, the roof skin overhangs the windshield surround by roughly 3/16". So I went ahead and cut that whole front portion of the drip rail off. I now plan to do a small pie cut on the sides and will lay the roof skin down a little at the front to smooth out the 3/16" difference. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._082830.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._171458.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._171504.md.jpg Since the drip rail deal is going to take some thought process I moved back to welding up the bed sides. So the sides were removed for easier access. Just trying to close up all the seams.(& holes that I made) https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._153031.md.jpg Will be placing some small steel pieces here to bridge the gap. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._153058.md.jpg I've been going back & forth between mig & tig thru this whole process. I'm glad that this isn't my job cause welding sheet metal is not my thing. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/04/..._075652.md.jpg |
We've been working on rear suspension mock up. The 12 bolt display rearend we had was too wide so we built a mock rearend that is 55" wide housing flange to housing flange and 60" wide axle flange to axle flange. We also had to cut some special axle brackets(similar to our Muscle Car Torque Amr brackets) with a 25 degree angle.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._075653.md.jpg After posting these pics on FB, Bret Voelkel chimed in and said we shouldn't run the shockwaves upside down. Debris can find their way in between the sleeve and body and create leaks. So we may have to pocket the frame a little for bag clearance. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._161211.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._131446.md.jpg Mocking up Efrain Diaz's 19x10 HRE wheels. The tire is hitting the chassis fixture in this pic. I guess the day had finally arrived where we needed to remove the chassis from the fixture. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._130302.md.jpg Out of the fixture and on the lift temporarily. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._172923.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._172931.md.jpg Then moved onto the rotisserie to continue welding and grinding. We've got 2 weeks to make it a roller in time for the Brothers Truck Show. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._150012.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._094620.md.jpg |
Rear suspension is roughed in. We will likely have to adjust the wheelbase once the cab & bed are back on.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._174132.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._174104.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._174216.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._174145.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._174120.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/06/..._174152.md.jpg |
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Those wheels are 19x10 HRE's? What size tires?
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It's looking good! Nice work.
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Looks great sitting on the ground like that. Congrats!
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The black HRE wheels have 305's on them. I mistyped on the size earlier, they are 19x12's. -J |
I haven't made much progress lately on the truck because I broke my ankle back in June. Just been planning the layout of all the under bed items. In order to do that I needed the bed in place.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/08/..._080040.md.jpg At the time of this pic I didn't have access to a wheel that would fit over the front hub. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/08/..._144643.md.jpg |
Yep, I like this very much.
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I've been kinda stalled on the rear diffuser design. My brother (the artistic one in the family) was in the area the other day so I had him take a look at it. I think he's come up with an idea that will look good and function well at 150+mph.
Cut up the factory longbed sides. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...0758551.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...0800581.md.jpg A little teaser https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...1200461.md.jpg Once again, curiosity got the better of me. Included: Radiator, turbos, battery, air tanks, air compressors, tailgate, rear roll pan & cardboard intercooler(LOL). Excluded: Engine, tranny, driveshaft, 3rd member, glass, interior, grill, wiring, hood, rear brakes, and tunnel/firewall. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...1351501.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...1352001.md.jpg Sitting on Ed's wheels/tires 18x11 & 18x12 https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...1404341.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/09/...1404501.md.jpg |
Time for the monthly update.
The first few pieces of this was accomplished with Tig because the Mig machine was being used by Ed on Ray Currie's F100. Needless to say I am no sheet metal guru and the Tig added a level of complication due to awkward positioning. Before, just a big gaping hole. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._105251.md.jpg I skipped a couple pics during this 4 step process. one flat panel, and 3 strip pieces to cover the frame crossover tube. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._123712.md.jpg Making room for the driveshaft. This part was a little more involved than the previous steps. Plasma cut the back of the floor out but there is a cross brace underneath. I had to put myself in the path of the plasma overspray to get to a couple areas. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._120854.md.jpg I had considered adding an access panel here for Torque Arm adjustments. Changed my mind once I realized that once the interior and seats were in there it would be a pita anyway. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._142841.md.jpg This piece had the same curvature as the previous panel. There's more than enough room for even a 4" driveshaft. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._093631.md.jpg Again, skipped a couple pics here. These two pieces had a little bit of angle so it took a few trial and error fitments to get it right. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._173252.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._173411.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._072301.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._075555.md.jpg Skipped a couple pics again. Now that there is some strength back in the floor I removed the cross floor bracing. Now I'm on the lookout for a van engine cover. Likely going to be an Astro Van. Plan to cut the sheet metal around the whole thing and then graft it to the C10. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/10/..._144914.md.jpg |
Very cool project.
Hope your ankle is healing properly. |
So project #Ctwin is gaining some junkyard parts. After a bunch of measuring and online dimension searching I headed to the Ontario Pick-A-Part with reciprocating saw in hand.
There are 3 variants of the Astro Van engine cover. Early, mid & late. I chose the mid year because of it's larger opening and thick construction. There were a bunch of vans to choose from. Luckily I found a very clean example and began cutting it up. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._133709.md.jpg The cover and the surround. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._112508.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._112455.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._113129.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._113100.md.jpg Doing a little prelim fitment check. It's pretty darn close as is. The under side of the dash will need to be raised slightly. That will allow the engine cover to move forward against what will eventually be a new firewall. There will be some serious consideration here for dash design. The cover must be able to be removed easily. Which will be no easy task once there are seats in place. Initial thoughts include designing a hinged center to the dash that lifts up and away. Another thought is to have two separate dashes (driver/passenger) and then have a removable center console that mates up against the dash/engine cover that is also easily removable. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._130127.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2018/11/..._130146.md.jpg |
I finished up Episode 2 last night.
I cover getting the chassis out of the fixture, building the rear suspension, mounting the cab, taking it to the Brothers Truck Show and beginning the diffuser design. |
I mentioned that the Holley High-Ram won't clear. We ended up changing to the Sniper Race Series. The only problem there is the inlet is 90mm. So I spent some time opening it up to 102 to match the throttle body.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/02/..._101820.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/02/..._072627.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/02/..._135327.md.jpg Halfway there https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/02/..._094953.md.jpg Quite the mess https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/02/..._124636.md.jpg Aaaaaannnnnd DONE https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/02/..._125604.md.jpg |
I was gonna suggest you just mount the cup holder that all true pro-touring cars have to the back of the engine and leave it exposed, but I see you already covered it up. Keep up the good work.
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I have every excuse in the world as to why this thing is taking so long. Lack of motivation isn't one of them. I am really trying to stick with one small project at a time. The biggest hurdle as of late has been the firewall. I wanted to remove the rain gutter and make a solid flat panel. I also wanted to change the angle of the toe boards at the same time. This was kind of an afterthought from mocking up a driver's seat and realizing the forward footwell space was limited. The problem of course is making sure there is plenty of tire clearance. My major hold up has been deciding the tire overall diameter. I finally just put a limit of 28" and moved forward.
Paper cutouts of the new firewall pieces. In order to make working with them easier I kept them in two pieces. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._163242.md.jpg Initial mock up. Lots of trimming and fitting. I left a little extra because I figured after bead rolling it would shrink/warp in some areas. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._124613.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._124627.md.jpg Made a pretty simple design for the bead roll. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._125355.md.jpg & spent some time at lunch today rolling some beads. This was my first time using one so I took a bunch of practice swipes with some spare pieces. The plan is to drill some holes about 1.5" in from the perimeter for rosette welds. The toe boards will just be bent up into place and welded/trimmed. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._130158.md.jpg Here is a side view of the toe boards. IMO the old toe board angle is where the pedals should have been from the factory. With the new floor angle that shouldn't be a problem. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._124726.md.jpg Our buddy Andy 'The Nova Guy' Mule found a LS7 oil pan & pump at the Pleasanton Goodguys. I hadn't planned on going dry sump for cost reasons but I couldn't pass this up knowing that Ed has a spare oil tank. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._172708.md.jpg Since the beginning we had plans to run a Dakota Digital dash. I just kept hesitating because we also have a Holley dash. Once I realized that the Dakota harness is a pass thru and that I could stash the Holley somewhere else I pulled the trigger. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._121449.md.jpg HDX-2200 will work out well in a universal situation. I also nabbed two 2000psi pressure sensors so we can monitor front/rear brake pressure and adjust accordingly via a prop valve mounted near the driver. We will also run twin widebands as well. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/04/..._130442.md.jpg |
A little progress on the firewall. Also made some tabs for the tranny crossmember so it will unbolt and drop out from the bottom. Turns out the 4L80 I used for mock up had a different (more shallow) pan on it. The current pan hangs about .5" lower which means the engine had to go forward and up. Will be making the engine crossmember next.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/05/..._134026.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/05/..._132245.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/05/..._132235.md.jpg |
Looking good!
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Made dual battery trays, mounted the Derale tranny cooler, mounted both compressors & tanks. Wired up the Ridetech Pro-X controller so we could cycle the truck at the Brothers Show this past weekend.
This is Fred, he does all of our brake & air lines on our chassis. He's routing the 1/4" lines from the distribution block to the tanks. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/07/..._105850.md.jpg Threw the fenders, intake and valve covers and stole the wheels off #projectreddawn for the show. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/07/..._152053.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/07/..._173710.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/07/..._173721.md.jpg We received a lot of positive comments. Had a guy comment that the engine will be a pita to work on, so I reached inside, unlatched the doghouse and pulled it out of the way. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/07/..._075907.md.jpg Next stop will be engine mounts, headers, mid pipes, and exhaust. |
After the Brothers Truck show we dropped the truck off at Doug's Headers. They built us some easily removable 1.75" primary, mid length headers and 2.5" mid pipes for it. We kept the tubing smaller for better velocity.
https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...923-mod.md.jpg We just started mocking up the Magnaflow 3.5" I/D mufflers yesterday. They will be tight up against the Derale coolers so we'll build a small heat shield there. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...043-mod.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...952-mod.md.jpg We also began mocking up the Wilwood tandem brake pedal assy. I wanted the pedal as high as possible so we could get the most ratio possible. As it sits we're at about 9:1. The dash will make servicing the master interesting. Will likely make the dash top pin on for easy removal. I'm still not sure what the gas pedal will look like and whether it will be pull or push yet. The throttle body will be rotated 180 degrees from normal so the cable can go right down the valley. The problem is that the valley is behind the pedal. So the cable will have to go back and around the Astrovan cover and up into the valley. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...229-mod.md.jpg Once again, I got a little rambunctious and cut the inner roof structure out. The first two pics are dark so it's hard to see but the 3rd pic shows all that was removed. It was worth 30 lbs https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...204-mod.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...227-mod.md.jpg https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...733-mod.md.jpg We've had a few different sets of wheels on the truck to get it around the shop. These are some that we borrowed from Schott for another display chassis. They're 18's & 20's with way too tall of a tire so it doesn't lay frame with them. https://i.hmjimg.com/images/2019/11/...720-mod.md.jpg |
Looks killer.
What are you doing with all the free real-estate in the engine bay? I was expecting to see some crazy 8 into 1 headers with a turbo up there! |
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