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Floor pan...
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Shot of the inside. Got the final paint on the roll bar and it's ready for copious amounts of Dynamat and Dynaliner...
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Got the subframe re-installed as well as the heater block-off plate, wiper motor and hyd clutch reservoir. Up to this point, this was probably one of the most rewarding times; getting to see things come together and seeing your vision becoming a reality!
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Rear suspension back in, hopefully for the last time...man that thing is heavy!!
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Tanks, Inc. fuel tank mocked up...
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Got the Dynamat laid down...I also ended up replacing the front dash panel. Years ago I had cut out the radio pocket for a single DIN radio and unbeknownst to me, a previous owner must've mutilated the ash tray area. I never could figure out why the ash tray wouldn't line up correctly. Once I saw the new piece I could see the difference. Amazingly, all the holes for trim, brackets, etc. we're in the right spot!
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More Dynamat...
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On with the Dynaliner! One thing I can say about this product is that while it's pretty pricey, the difference from adding the Dynaliner to the Dynamat is far greater than the difference in just adding the Dynamat to bare steel. That's a mouthful, but just by the difference in the sound of the panels going from layer to layer, the biggest benefit (I feel) came from adding the Dynaliner. So much so, in fact, that my Dad ripped the interior out of his Model A street rod and we installed everything in it and it's out getting a new interior. Well, that and the fact that after a 3 day road trip in the car, my Mom swore she wouldn't step foot in it again until he "did something about the noise!"
I used 3 rolls of the Dynaliner to cover what you see in the pics and 15 sheets of Dynamat. The plan is to go back later and just install Dynamat only in the doors and roof once I'm ready to have the headliner replaced...once the car is mobile again. |
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More of the same...
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Now that's a proper update :trophy-1302:
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AAW Classic Update kit going in, ididit steering column fitment, hydraulic clutch installed and pedal modified for proper angle. I went back and forth on the wiring for the wiper motor. I wanted to integrate it into the AAW harness but didn't wanna run the wiper harness over to the fuse block. Instead I opted to run it thru the firewall at the back of the engine. Re-wrapped it in some better Painless Wiring classic wiring wrap. The woven material looks far better and cleaner than the cheap plastic stuff. All of the wiring except what's under the dash will get wrapped in the same stuff. Now to get the brake lines plumbed.
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So we're getting up to the current timeframe. Everything up to this point I've posted was all done in the last 9 months but wanted to bring you up to speed.
Last weekend I got started on the brake lines. Got the fronts done and part of the rear. As a new development, I've opted for installing an LS3/525 in lieu of the big block. By doing so I had to make a couple of minor changes. First being the engine mounts and second being the front coil over springs. Called up DSE and got the stuff I needed and got the 550lb springs installed this past weekend as well. Have a new set of BBC 650# springs if anybody needs some. As planned i went with the 1.5" setback mounts which I know may limit me on header selection but I've pretty well decided to go either DSE or Hooker Blackhearts. The DSE price is a tough pill to swallow, though...we'll see. I ordered my engine from Pace Performance about a month ago and opted for the dyno break-in service and just got word this morning that it's shipping today! Also, I had ordered my Forgelines about 2 months ago and they'll be shipping out this week as well so things are starting to happen at an alarming rate!:G-Dub: I'll keep you guys posted with progress but expect the posts to come at a more normal pace as it'll be in "real time" from here on out...thanks for tuning in! |
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More brake lines...I bought the Eastwood line flaring tool and I must say it does a great job. The stainless is tough as nails but makes for a good workout!
The goal was to keep the lines as symmetrical and close to the firewall as possible without interfering in the removal of any parts down the road. It's crazy how much time (and money) I've spent just searching for/buying small detail items like clips, clamps, etc. if anyone has a source, I need some 3/16" twin brake line clamps preferably aluminum that will hold two lines side by side. I've seen them all over but for some reason they've been avoiding me in my search. Side note: like an idiot, I never did delete the wiring harness holder from the firewall. That's from all the back and forth on the wiper harness. Indecisiveness is the enemy of progress. |
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Alrighty, Friday was a good day for progress. It started with the delivery of my Pace Performance LS3 376/525 and BFG Rivals! I've been eagerly awaiting the motor partly because, well, it's pretty cool, but also because it's a big piece of the puzzle needed to move the build forward. I also got a few other necessities such as the engine controller, starter, etc. Currently, my Mast oil pan is on back order so until I have that, I can't put the engine in the car for test fitting.
I'll post some detailed info/pics on the engine fitment, engine mounts, headers, etc. just because in my research, I seemed to see a lot of different info and opinions but not many pics to show as examples of the various components. With that said, my setup is as follows: DSE Hydroformed subframe, DSE 1.5" setback motor mounts, LS3, Mast Motorsports oil pan, Tremec T56 with Quick Time bell housing, DSE stainless headers and Holley Mid-Mount accessory drive system. Just FYI, I paid to have the "dyno break-in" service done on the engine to ensure everything was seated and had a decent tune on it so I was curious to see where the horsepower actually landed as compared to advertised. Pace basically takes a GM crate LS3 376/430 and installs GM's ASA cam. For $1,000 less, the only difference is that the warranty on Pace's version is now a 12 month parts only (you provide the labor) instead of GM's standard crate warranty...a risk I was comfortable with given the nature of modern engines and the fact that this is all stuff GM provides themselves so it's not like it's a radical setup. Anyway, the dyno results on mine were peak corrected HP of 525.2 @ 6,200 rpm and peak corrected torque of 495.0 @ 5,200 rpm...not bad considering the big block I had didn't make that much HP and weighed about 500lbs more! I'll post some pics and additional info soon but wanted to get this out there while it was fresh in my head... |
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So Friday was a big day for some goodies! Got my Pace Performance LS3 376/525 and some BFG Rivals. I opted for the "dyno break-in" service as well to get the engine rough tuned and broken in under load. As advertised, the engine had a corrected peak HP of 525.2 @ 6,200rpm and a corrected 495 ft-lbs of torque at 5,200rpm.
Got some other key items such as the engine harness, starter, Mast Motorsports oil pan, DSE headers and Holley Mid-Mount accessory drive kit. The drive kit and oil pan are on back order but that'll give me a chance to get the wiring routed. |
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I love these tires...
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Finally, after much anticipation, my Forgelines arrived! Got the tires mounted and looks good to have it sitting on it's suspension again! I've gotta say, these things are quality thru and thru...I'm running 315's in the back and 275's in the front.
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I love it when a plan starts coming together...
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Coming along great! Nice choice in wheels.
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looking great! what color blue is the car?
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My DSE headers showed up yesterday. Let me say, I toiled over that decision as I knew that for the cost of that one item I could nearly have both a set of Hooker headers AND the Vintage Air kit I need. The main driving force(s) behind my decision to go with these was: 1) ground clearance and 2) fitment. I knew that with the set-back motor mounts, there would be no fitment issues. I called Holley and asked about the Blackhearts but couldn't get any definitive answers and although others on here have said they used them with success in setups similar to mine I just didn't want it to be a fight. In addition, I was unsure how I felt about a slip-fit collector. If there's one thing I hate it's an exhaust leak! Not to say that'd be the case, but that was my thought process...although I must say, I can see the benefits the slip-fit would offer in terms of ground clearance.
I've read in various forums where guys have bought headers, then for whatever reason (usually fitment), they end up buying another set and switching them out. I figured I could spend a little more on the front end, get what I really want and save myself some headache and money down the road...stay tuned, I'll let you know how that theory holds up! These things really are a work of art! I'm not disappointed in the slightest. Every detail has been attended to, from the angle in which the collector points to the bevel machined around the outer facing surface of the tube flange. You could run your bare hand all over these things and never get snagged or cut. I was also surprised at how compact they are. Maybe it's b/c I've mostly dealt with big blocks for so long... |
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Just thought I'd post up some various pics of the headers. In all my researching and stalking of these things, there never seemed to be many pics of them other then stock photos or the occasional side shot on an engine...
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More of the same. I love how the tubes are welded 360 degrees...
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No merge spears...
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Another feature I liked about these is that, unlike the Hooker's, you don't have to remove your steering shaft to run it through the tubes when used with the DSE subframe...that was probably my biggest fear. With any set-back engine mount besides their own, it could easily put the steering shaft right in the path of one of the tubes.
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If my Mast oil pan ever shows up, I might actually be able to take some pics of this thing sitting IN the car!:rolleyes::rolleyes:
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What is the length of your rearend?
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GM 12-bolt 30-spline Custom Alloy Axle Shafts - 30-spline axles - Torino Flange / Press on Bearings - Axle flange OD 5.90" or less - Axle shaft pilot OD 2.778" or less -1/2"-20 x 3.00" Studs, Press-in - GM 5 on 4 3/4" bolt circle - Add access hole to axle flange - 1/2" Pinion Offset - "F" Measurement; 25.375" - "G" Measurement; 24.375" -Total axle width 54.750"axle flange to axle flange That's pretty much what your rear end will be if you order their standard config for use with mini tubs, Quadralink, etc. Obviously, they'll make it any dimension you want if you need something different. I toyed with the idea of squeezing 335's back there but I'm glad I didn't, they wouldn't have fit. Since I wasn't repainting the car yet, I didn't want to roll the rear fender lip and risk excessive paint damage and that would be a requirement no doubt for 335's. The way it is now, I have aprox 1" clearance on the outside and probably about 1.25" on the inside. I haven't measured it for certain but there's plenty of room for travel and lateral tire movement. Hope that helps. If you need anything more specific, let me know and I'll get it for you! |
Thank you for the information and that is a beautiful
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Very nice! Great list of parts!
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Your car is is just how I'd like my 68, when I take it apart and build it again :confused18: |
Loving your build - pretty color too
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