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I got it all cleaned up with my sand blaster and wire wheel and sprayed some paint inside the box prior to me sealing it up.
I cut off the flange from the new box I purchased and cut out the old flange, got it fitted and welded. Also welded the outer skin in place. For some reason I decided to grind down the welds on this side and it turned out good. I ran out of seam sealer so I'll catch all the seams after I get some more. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdumc0ed5.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseuaawzgg.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psi0dju3ei.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskn6izlxa.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscxxazszn.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszft2e5jx.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7mprmvff.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7kdxn6dq.jpg |
I thought I'd share this with you... I did all this hard work and the entire time I smelt an awful smell of death but could not find the culprit. Turns out this rat made his final resting place on top of my cars carpet I have sitting in my garage. Hope I can get the smell out.
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I smartened up a bit and put the car back on the blocks so I don't break my back.
Went ahead and started to remove this section of firewall to insert my DSE smooth panel. I cleaned out the seam sealer and spot welds to start then cut out a preliminary area to test fit the panel. While I was test fitting the area I found that the firewall and cowl were pushed back roughly 2" to fit the old distributor so I had to find a tool to fix this. I ended up borrowing my friends slide hammer that screws into the sheet metal rather than spot welds to he sheet metal. This worked good for pulling out the majority of the large dented section but the amount of holes needed was going to destroy the cowl so I left it as is once I got the firewall and cowl pretty much in line with the rest of the cowl. I'll acquire a spot welder in the near future and finish up the smaller dents. All holes were filled on the firewall lap and cowl and ground down flush prior to welding the panel in place. I'll need to go back later and fill the throttle petal hole and a couple other areas down low on the firewall. Also addressed the rust around the whiper motor hole. Once I got it fitted I went ahead and welded the panel in place then went back and ground down the welds a bit. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psukiisj3z.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbfl9ngvs.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psirikdjgn.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszoigyicw.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psummj2e9f.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxobrn6kw.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskkt5vrbn.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmobmqn3a.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssoyunya5.jpg The burn marks on the panel you see is my sweet nut I welded on the backside to bolt up the Vintage Air motor. |
The next day I cleaned it up real good and applied seam sealer and put some primer on it. Applied seam sealer to a few areas on the tunnel along the welds used to make the tunnel higher too.
Like I said, I'll need to go back and pull the cowl out a bit to get it straight. You can see I also did not get it completely flush with the cowl, I was not going for that, I just wanted to get rid of the heater box and make it look a little better. I don't have a picture but my Vintage Air motor had to be moved over about an inch from the original position due to fitment issues with the raised tunnel. I also welded a nut to the back of the new panel to secure the motor and it fits good now. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdnhcl4nb.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pswssk7yzn.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbluemngm.jpg |
Nice work,great progress:thumbsup::thumbsup:
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Thanks!
I got a few more weeks worth of body fab work to do then I'll jump back on the motor and I be installing a new AAW harness. Just got word that the headers are done and should be shipped back to me soon so I'll need to see if they fit now. The only issue I see is a problem with the headers is that the motor now sits lower so we'll have to wait and see. |
Very nice work. Messing around with that firewall is great fun isn’t it?! :)
Hopefully I’ll have some ideas for you next weekend on that ECU mounting location! Chris |
I got the headers in and the final product looks nice!
I stuck the motor back in real quick to check the fitment and they slid in like a glove. They make a little contact with the PS box where the cast lines running vertically on the outside of the housing as seen in the photos. I'll end up grinding those areas down a little and it should give me enough room, if not I'll massage the tubes a little. The revisions Ultimate Headers would have worked perfect had we not dropped the motor down more. They said they would adjust the headers more if needed but I think I can get it going I don't have a photo but the tube is very close the the knock sensor bolt and I'm going to need to swap out the bolt for something smaller, maybe an allen key style fastener and all will be good. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0kzu88no.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psoxuoo0oo.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnc2n3cuv.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskch93zaq.jpg |
The Dynamat Extreme was covering the trunk floor and had to be removed. This stuff is such a pain in the ass to remove! I did some research on how to remove this stuff and it basically came down to heat or dry ice. I did the heat trick when I did the tubs and it took a while so I decided to try dry ice this go around. Long story short, this tar doesn't like to freeze. The ice would freeze the top metal layer of the Dynamat and the sheet metal below but the tar would still be sticky and would not come off. With the top layer freezing it would release from the tar but the tar would remain in place, just made more of a mess really in my case. I purchased 10lbs and crushed it up and even tried to just lay the block of ice in one area and it did not help. I ended up using heat to get off the majority of it then a wire wheel to get to bare metal.
After I got some of the Dynamat off I took off the trunk support bracket. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdq3fvnim.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psuiv3x5k7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psekviauoq.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9qna20nh.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgfw1dp7a.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4lhvpx0h.jpg |
I then trimmed the pan around my mini tubs and set it in place to check the fitment and it looked good other than sitting a little high with the original still in there.
The original pan had a larger lip that sat up taller than the new pan and I didnt realize this until I made a mess drilling out all the spot welds on the back panel. I'll need to get a chill bar and fill in a few dozen holes later on... After all those holes I made more to release the gas tank supports from the bottom of the pan and then cut out the majority of the pan to start fitting it up better. In one of the last pictures you can see the Ridetech airbar supports the trunk supports perfectly where it bolts through the trunk floor, this will help me to get it fitted correctly too. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pswtlqhwtj.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psarvqyigo.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psh1fpwkzq.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5aw9mfpp.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszpwhyv3n.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjhrilnun.jpg |
I chose to leave the frame rails alone and not mess with the metal around these areas because its in good condition and I'm about done with cutting out spot welds... I have access to both sides of the trunk pan where I'm but welding it all into place so it should work out fine. Got some weld through primer were needed and proceeded on.
Got it all cut out and the fit is very good. Only took about 20 attempts taking the new pan in and out until I got it where I wanted haha. Used some sheet metal screws and got it tacked in and then welded the gas tank supports from the bottom. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdtsa5psn.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskhlj9uc2.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psu0dridcx.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psvbag3a3k.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psegrrzaz2.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrycim2q5.jpg |
Got it all fully welded in and then ground down the welds. While I was there I also took off all the additional Dynamat off the trunk area above the frame rails.
Only Issue I had to deal with was the Ridetech Airbar still being installed. I did not want to remove this and the pan just about sits right on top of the bar so I used a bunch of 1/8" aluminum spacers between the bar and trunk pan so I did not weld to it on accident, it also helped to keep things cool and provided a little backing to weld over. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psv1utcq2x.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psirgqeyos.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseayrjkl6.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psy8p8nzcf.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psycpioiqr.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psm0nfjpo4.jpg |
Got a couple of shots form under the car. That good penetration will hopefully keep the trunk from falling off haha. As you can see the weld is sitting just about on top of the airbar so I'll need to grind this down later on next time I remove the bar.
I seam sealed the areas inside the trunk needed attention and primed it for the time being. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psktwbahjt.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdte6u5kr.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psucccjhjw.jpg |
That turned out great. Nice work. And yes, drilling spot welds sucks...
Daniel |
Looks awesome man! I feel your pain on drilling spotwelds and removing Dynamat. Both jobs are terrible.
Chris |
Thanks guys! Still not done yet but no more spot welds or Dynamat for the next couple of weeks. I may come across some Dynamat when I do the subframe connectors. I'd much rather drill out spot welds than mess with Dynamat though haha.
I have some more photos I'll post up later. I had to go to work and when I get home I'll wrap up the rear panel mess I made and clean up the filler I applied int he trunk area. |
I took a small break from the trunk and focused on some of the patch work on the quarters the local shop did. I removed the paint and welded some pinholes along their shotty welds and fixed other areas like gouges with their cutoff wheel that was hidden in there... After some more welding I ground everything smooth and put some filler on the seams for the time being. While I was doing the filer I also put some on my trunk welds to make it look a little better once its painted later. I still need to go back and sand everything later still.
You can see the pinholes on the PS quarter. I don't have a pic of that side after I filled the pinholes. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psr0hkzsdi.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psjy4bwxk5.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pskyqfhc4v.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psl6vnvgzv.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psry22lmhi.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxlgaxkhn.jpg |
I have been looking into accessory drives again and for some reason I'd rather have the ac mounted low to keep everything tucked in and not break the bank. I found a new Holley bracket for the Gen V LT1/4 setups but nobody makes the truck version nor do I want to make a bracket at this time. I think I'm also going to add the ICT power steering pump bracket that sits under the alternator.
I did some research and a good amount of people run the Gen V compressors on their swaps and they do so with Vintage Air too. A guy from Pro-Touring shed some light on how to make the variable displacement compressor on the Gen V compressors run in the fixed displacement mode. Its very simple if I understand correctly... just supply 12v to the variable displacement valve (2nd plug on compressor) when the compressor clutch is activated and it will operate like a fixed compressor. From my understanding of the LS3 style compressors is that they are variable and they do not have an extra plug like the gen V compressors to send the 12v to. I spoke to Speartech about this and they are not too familiar with the AC compressors but they did tell me that when they were first doing the Gen V harnesses a customer requested his harness to be setup for the factory compressor and they did so. The customer reached out to them with a problem, his compressor was not accepting a charge. They determined the problem with this is that the valve needed to see 12v in order for the compressor to work correctly. I'm assuming the factory AC system sends some sort of signal on and off to make it variable or something along those lines? So we will see if a constant 12v when the clutch is activated will get the job done? Speartech said they now setup their harnesses using the factory compressor so that the valve sees 12v when the clutch is activated. They also recommend a Sanden compressor rather than the factory if possible so we'll see. If all else fails I can find a way to stick a Sanden unit in there later down the road. Now I have cut the ICT motor mount adapters to fit the compressor. The compressor sits snug against the block. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psrelewojb.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psr7alrg4e.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pstennualj.jpg |
Great work,keep the pics coming:thumbsup:
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Looking good!!!
:captain: |
I installed a motor mount and began measuring the amount of metal needed to be notched from the frame. Not too much needed to be removed but I clearance enough to be able to fit the ac lines and hopefully be able to install the compressor or remove it when the motor is installed.
As you can see in the pictures the suction and discharge are very close to the motor mount stand, I ended up cutting another 1/8" or so off it. It looks like excessive metal was removed for this but almost this much will be required to removed the compressor once the motor is installed. The compressor pivots from the lower stud and needs room to swing down. Another area of concern I had was the variable displacement valve but it ended up in a good position with plenty of room to hook it up. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmtey1fpx.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...pst1fpiyf8.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4lxpbsdf.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxteakjhq.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdy48jsgf.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psxy8yebtp.jpg |
I then welded up the notch similar to how I did the other side. You can see how much more I cut out near the motor mount stand and a little more near the upper a-arm. I couldnt cut out too much near the motor mount stand due to the nut access, I could have welded the nut to the frame but I thought of that too late. Access to these nuts are fun. Got it painted the next day.
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The reason I was trying to make so much room for the suction and discharge was my original plan to use a Motech manifold here. They are the only people I have found that make a Gen V compressor manifold but its big and exits towards the a-arm and I would have to put some kind of tight 90 degree ac fitting on there to make it work.
I was worried about making the Motech manifold fit so I reached out to Hawks Motorsports. Hawks makes an LS3 manifold (photo below) that has a 90 degree exit and should work out perfect for me. I spoke to them and they said they are beginning to get more involved with the Gen V swap stuff and had plans to make this manifold for the LT1 compressor in the next few months. Hawks Motorsports was kind enough to try to work with me on making a manifold for my truck compressor. I sent my compressor off and we will wait and see if they can make it happen, fingers crossed! If all works out I'm sure they will offer this in their lineup for anyone needing one. The other option is have is to use the stock ac lines but I'd need to source them if the manifold does not work out. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...psmnku6nok.jpg |
Now that I have stuck the motor in and out I figure it will be the last time I stick it in so I decided to test the fitment of the trans inside the raised tunnel. Of course, as I finished sticking it in I remembered wanting to shave down the power steering box a little to clear the headers as mentioned when test fitting them. I might be able to keep the motor in there while I do it we'll see.
Here are some pics of me sticking it in there trying not to dent the firewall. Speaking of firewall, I took off the cowl vent and hammered out the remaining dents and put a little filler and smoothed it out some. Came out nice, not perfect but easy on the eyes haha. Trans has plenty of room in the tunnel and the ground clearance is good. I have not seen the trans pan on the car version of this 10 speed but the truck version's pan is not deep in my opinion. The trans is currently sitting on the stock crossmember and a 2x4. The crossmember was moved a few inches back by the previous owner to run the 700r4. I planed on using the same corssmember in the original position with a little cutting and welding to get it where I need it to be. https://static1.pt-content.com/image...3wwxuko6-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...foehkia5-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...ykld5t04-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...jsst67e9-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...8ip3jmcr-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...48invfux-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...mmx65qpj-1.jpg |
I ended up hacking up my stock crossmember (saw someone else do the same) and offset it a few inches back to accept the new trans. The height was not changed, only the rearward position. I had some 1/8" plate laying around and this is what the stock crossmember is made from. It crossmember is very solid but the weight of the trans worries me a little for some reason. I think I'm going to stiffen it up a bit and clean up some of the tall edges that kiss the floor a little. I placed a spacer between the crossmember and mount so I could drop it a little if needed to get the angle corrected once the car is together. I also have quite a bit of room to raise the trans if needed too.
After its all said and done I think I'll buy an expensive crossmember instead. The 10 speed is very heavy lol. https://static1.pt-content.com/image...zpsncqi-1.jpeg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...zpskqbv-1.jpeg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...zpsdpw6-1.jpeg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...zps5zh3-1.jpeg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...zpsg3lj-1.jpeg |
How much did the shop raise the trans tunnel to fit the new trans. I'm guessing more lift towards the front? Progress is looking good.
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They do not have an exact number but they said this was the highest they have done. They do a bunch of T56 swaps and they do not raise it as much as mine ended up being. I'd assume its almost 2". Check out the before and after photos of the tunnel in the thread and you can see its a good amount higher.
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I've got a little done since I last posted but I've been busy with life. I decided to clean off all the old Dynamat and coat the floor just to make sure no rust comes back. I planned on not using Dynamat anymore due to it possibly being the reason the pans rusted? Might not be the reason but the car had leaks and the mat held some water in the trunk. This stuff sucks taking it off and the only way was with a heat gun then a wire wheel along with elbow grease.
I also finally opened up my fuel tank box and put a coat of paint on the fuel tank. Its installed now but not fully buttoned down. https://static1.pt-content.com/image...9gow7h2d-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...hgmvhhyl-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...yq4asysb-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...t8jskmyw-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...sl2frnyh-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...pnx5uyjx-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...b68lslsn-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...tn5ycyoo-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...5dhcfpgy-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...hxmmxsn0-1.jpg - - - Updated - - - I also received my ICTBillet power steering pump bracket and installed it. Due to my position of the motor this bracket hits my a-arm and will not work for me. Like most things with this car plans have now changed. I'll be returning the PS bracket and going another direction with my setup. I have found a replacement accessory drive from Drive Junky that is pretty nice, it keeps the water pump so thats cool but I cannot use my factory compressor or vacuum pump. I should get the new drive installed in the next couple of weeks. https://static1.pt-content.com/image...ramrb85t-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...3clzjy9o-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...ujnwe6hi-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...pvki4nyx-1.jpg https://static1.pt-content.com/image...hudvgaxk-1.jpg |
Got my headers installed! I ended up needing to massage the steering box and one of the tubes slightly to get them to fit due to the motors position in the car. These headers fit tight against the motor as advertised, this presents a small issue with the new Holley trans crossmember I'm installing. The PS header does not line up with the exhaust relief cutouts on the crossmember. Easy fix, just need to rout the exhaust over a bit, I post some photos of this later on. Another issue was the DS header flange had an issue sitting flush on the head, it seemed to be bulged out a hair in the center, hopefully the gasket and bolt torque will account for the misalignment issue. If you hold a straight edge across the header flange its off by a few thousandths in the center. PS header also clears the factory starter heat shield so thats kind of cool.
Also got the intake manifold installed and purchased the engine covers. I'm missing the studs to mount them but one of the guys on Corvetteforum was nice enough to send me his old studs for free as long as I covered the shipping. https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psfxzc6u5z.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psodearqgl.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6bnjdl3a.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psmxdzzr0v.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psajjnkyum.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psb0ziu8o2.jpg |
I ended up changing my mind about my hackjob crossmember I made and figured I would purchase a Holley crossmember and hack it up instead. I found a post on ls1tech where a guy used a T56 crossmember to install his 6l90 so I figure this would be a good starting point.
Sorry for the lack of photos, I away from the car but I'll get photos of the crossmember installed later on. Here are a few pics of what needed to be done on order to make it fit. I had to cut out some of the diagonal gussets to clear the pan and then I had to lift the mounting position roughly 2" high and 3/4" forward to bold up to my trans witht he trans sitting at 3 degrees. Also reinstalled the diagonal gusset plate off to the side to maybe help keep strength. It ended up working out great and is way stronger than my hackjob crossmember. I did not want to risk hitting a big bump and the stock crossmember bend and screw things up so this should help that not happen. In order to lift the mounting point and move it forward I just used some leftover Ridtech axle tube tabs from my 4-link kit and the plate with the mounting holes came with the crossmember, I guess it might be a spacer? https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psx5csm0o5.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psqrfrks1y.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pszatrfo6e.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psfqijpakh.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psjtqlxpkw.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pslz81o44i.jpg |
Here are the photos of the trans crossmember installed. As you can see the PS header is tucked in real close and does not line up with the crossmember exhaust relief.
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I decided to redo all the wiring and chose the American Auto Wire Classic Update kit. This thing is very cool and user friendly, the guys at AAW have great customer service, I called an asked a few questions and they were very knowledgeable and helped me out.
I started with the dash area and then worked to the back of the car. I did not finish wiring up the neutral safety switch, backup lights or the vintage air system yet. My engine harness will come with an extra module that should control the reverse lights and it is also equipped with a neutral safety output that I'll wire in later once I get my engine harness. I then went to the engine bay and started on the engine harness and front lights. Turns out with a newer motor you dont really use many of the engine related wires or at least I did not. The kit is cool though, it comes wires prewired for an ECM mounted in the engine bay so you can just wire this right up to your swap harness and roll with it. I have installed my main power junction stud directly below the break booster to keep it kind of hided. This stud will supply power to most of the car. After I got the stud installed I slapped the front fenders back on for the front wire fitment. https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pskbvuzkfs.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pskbehkrwn.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psjmqtteth.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pskmvc4dq3.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psrmluwvrt.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psmokldbqg.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3go6tmey.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psdhdtas5y.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psw7vgub2u.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psyfrliol3.jpg |
Heres a few photos of the front lighting and wiper motor wiring. I also ran the AAW ECM wiring similar to the front lights, everything is located behind the fender out of the way or under the core support, ended up looking pretty cool.
I also hooked up my power wire from my alternator to the main junction stud and back to the battery to charge it. I ran a remote solenoid like others do as a safety feature with the main power wire, its only hot when its cranked. Heres some photos of the trunk mounted battery and how I ran the wire to the starter. The charge wire and solenoid wire are ran down the DS of the car. This setup is pretty common and is similar to Mad Electrical's and the sticky on pro-touring. https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pswkmcnpah.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psvyphcukv.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...pswaeatb7k.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psd97b8b4s.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psomxrwz5r.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psmstgxuvz.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psam24yxoc.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psnyur7rmq.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psq2fyt0a3.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psufjlth0a.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...psfdmozdvz.jpg https://i151.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4p9mclhu.jpg |
Looks great. You’re making great progress.
Can’t wait until you get it running. I’m doing an LT swap on my 69 Camaro. |
It’s been running a while, just stopped updating it here I guess.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...en-v-swap.html |
thanks for the detailed pictures on cable routing... I'm literally just about to head out to garage to start taking apart the interior of my '68 to re-route new 2/0 to replace a damaged main power line that the last owner zip-tied to the fuel line.
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