Makes sense. I usually just plug the switch. Never have used it....

Photobucket screwed a bunch of people. I just have never had a chance to go back and reload the hundreds of pictures I have....

T,

I really like the wheels - will look sick on the car. What are you thinking for tires? We had to modify the Wilwood proportioning valve mount on mine, too, to clear the clutch master. Great progress!


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That's a good looking wheel. The colors will work well against the gold.

Thanks Brian, I’m still undecided on tires. I have thought about going 285/30R18 square or 295/30R/18 and 255/35R/18. Brands are limited and I get torn between a good street-able tire vs a more track oriented tire. I don’t trailer and like to drive so I dont want a tire that’s to loud, and can handle rain if you get caught in it. Also concerned about overall height. Been trying to stay around a 25” tall tire.
Falken Azeris FK510 might be a good compromise in the 295/255 sizes. Bridgestone has the Potenza RE-71 or SO4 pole position avliable in the 285 size. The other would be the Contential extreme contact sport in the 285. Any body have opinions or recommendations?

Thanks Trey. My thoughts as well. I think the Black centers will play off the black roof.

I'd focus on which one has the size you need. I've heard nothing but good things about the brands you've mentioned. I'd also recommend looking at General G-Max and Dunlop Direzza

Wow! Glad to be following along now. Keep up the great work.

Thanks Tom, I appreciate your help and the other folks I have met through you.

Couple of pictures of the rear suspension assembled at full droop. The Watts link has four positions it can be mounted to the rear end for different ride heights. The link bars and lower shock mount also have multiple holes for different ride heights and adjustments.

https://i.postimg.cc/qMdmsc2c/74298-...0-BBEE9-F2.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ryGGLBtW/23-A4-...9-B977-BC9.jpg

While working with the Nicop for the brake lines I made a crossover for the two back steam ports. I drilled and tapped the factory block off ports to accept the line.
https://i.postimg.cc/G2W3rMfb/A14944...64301-FFD8.jpg


Intake, throttle body and fuel rails installed. Working on the front accessory drive. Using the Holley low mount with fourth gen Camaro spacing. The integral power steering pump reservoir will fit but cant get the lid off without unbolting the crossbar. I am going to have to come up with a remote mount solution.

https://i.postimg.cc/d3pTsr7m/57230-...6-F0350291.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/x1ff0N6N/DE039-...F1-D25-B91.jpg

Setting up the drill press to drill the the pump housing 13/16 so it could be tapped for 7/8-14 threads for a -10AN fitting. Also chamfered the leading surface for the O-ring. The port is blocked off below the point for the drill and tap so as to not get any chips in the pump.

https://i.postimg.cc/yYX64yyz/AF1703...9-F3240-D4.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/KYsvpcrk/B704-B...EA6-FF5-CC.jpg

I have seen a number of cars at autocross and track events have issues with power steering reservoirs leaking fluid and over temping. Since I am going remote I wanted a good solution. I am using a Chase Bays triple baffled tank. Very nice, quality piece. The space I wanted the tank in, is very tight between bay bars, valve covers, upper shock mounts, etc. It took several attempts to come up with a mounting bracket, hose and fittings to make it work. I made the bracket out of 1/4” thick 1.5“ x 1.5” aluminum angle. Mounted with existing bolts.

https://i.postimg.cc/ry0h5GRR/6-EB04...1-B00297-D.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/yNLfyvTc/44-A6-...9620-C49-B.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/yNj4Rm5S/6-CD7-...5-BB5609-B.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/9M4BtV0H/E546-E...D63417-B84.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/9M4BtV0H/E546-E...D63417-B84.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/43xPypTd/016045...86-AEED769.jpg

Something else I wanted to address are bump stops for the rear end. I know the coilovers have bumpers to prevent bottoming out the shocks but this is designed to protect the shocks. I have seen multiple times guys break drive shafts and dent floorpans from the suspension hitting. I made some brackets with nuts welded on the backside that I could plug weld to the frame. I then used some pre fabricated brackets from Allstar performance. I welded a mounting plate to them so they could be bolted on and some Energy Suspension stops. I set the distance by jacking the rear end up and determining the height I could move up to before the rear end made contact with the floor pan. The stops themselves will contact the truck arms just ahead of the rear housing. This mounting arrangement will allow adjustments if needed and I use different stops if desired to cushion the compression.

https://i.postimg.cc/50js7LPG/B1-C3-...56990-DD79.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/v8J0h15q/9-E804...30-C624661.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/sxhwyyC4/44-FE6...8859920-C1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/QtP0RCwM/D0-B31...EC6-E46481.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mgR8x0X7/19910-...64615293-A.jpg

Power steer
 

Mark........nice parts and fabrication going on here.....however that SHORT -10 hose is gonna tear the reservoir off your bracket due to engine movement.
Reclock the 90* on the bottom of the reservoir facing rearward, new hose going 8" then u-turn forward 10" towards the pump into a new 45*.


Happy TG.

I agree with Jim on the supply hose being too short. Don't forget to use a good cooler for the PS fluid to keep temps under control.

Thanks Jim and Trey, I will make up a longer hose and see if I can make it fit. I was concerned about the short length myself. I considered making a bracket that attached to the engine. Not sure how much movement I will have. I will be running a cooler.

I was impressed with how Kevin_l configured his mount for his fuse panel and incorporated a clutch pedal stop and a switch to know the clutch is depressed. I shamelessly built a similar panel out of some scrap aluminum I had laying around. I added some 1/2” bushing to the rear to space it off the firewall. My youngest son Chase took it to his high school welding class and tig welded the bushing to the back side. I wanted to mount it without drilling any new holes so I welded some bolts to the back side of a bracket I made that mounts the clutch master cylinder and it will use one of the screws from the pass through on the front wiring harness. The clutch stop is adjustable as is the switch. The switch itself is a 2002 Camaro. Thanks for the idea Kevin.

https://i.postimg.cc/MKXKgy3T/F00419...-FE6052972.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/wxwjWWVZ/7-CB3-...-F8298-C12.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/76VZrXyC/D1174-...-B6-D06-BA.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/8czPpW1Z/C4224-...58230-A1-A.jpg

what gas pedal and mount is that? pedal covers?

kbclamper,
The pedal is GM 10379038, the mount is a fabricated. The pedal covers are Clayton Machine Works.

Looks awesome and great idea!


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thanks. i have a 63 nova build im bringing back from the dead.

I like your setup with the proportioning valve mounted by the master. Were those lines prebent or did you bend them yourself? That's the exact same master I am using. Thanks in advance

Car is looking great! Love your attention to detail. One note on that clutch switch, I am using a relay also, I wasn't sure how many amps that small switch could hold up to. Might get a way with running it in series with the started solenoid however I am only using the switch to trigger the relay. And the relay is only powered from the solenoid wire so it is not trigger every time I shift. Only in crank position.

Kbclamper, No problem, I hope it helps you out.

Mc1984ss, I made all the lines except the two short ones from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. They came with the port. Valve kit. If I recall correctly I reversed them and tweaked them a little. I extended the mounting bracket.

Kevin_l , Thanks for the kind words and for the information, that helps a lot.

So quick question. How do you like the Nicop brake lines. I was considering building my lines with Nicop but ended up using steel lines ?

Marty, I really like them. I forget who, but someone on the boards turned me onto them on my last project. I was struggling with stainless steel. I have never used normal steel lines due to the corrosion issues, but the stainless steel lines are much harder to work with. Stainless is hard on flaring tools, doesn’t seal as well, work hardens, and is pretty much one shot and your done. If you decide to use it I would recommend getting a good brand ( SUR&R). There are a lot of cheap brands on Amazon that don’t have consistent wall thickness and some are higher copper content.

Incredible thread Mark. Really enjoying all the details and photos. These are the things we never get to see and appreciate when looking at a finished car. Thank You!

:captain:

Thanks Curtis, I enjoy the detailed threads as well. Lots of inspiration and ideas on here.

My original core support was in horrible shape. It had been hacked up, and patched to many times. I ordered a Goodmark replacement. The opening in the stock support is fairly small at 21” wide. I have seen a lot of folks just cut the opening larger, but it just never looks finished. I also wanted to fill a lot of holes I don’t plan to use and get rid of the dimpled area for the original radiator cap.

I laid out a plan to cut out sections to increase the opening while retaining the original flange. I was able to increase the opening to 24” wide. I’m still working on my welding skills but overall I was pleased.

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9vBZLGJ/785921...-EEF201-CC.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/g047Ycbm/DDDEE2...EEF87425-C.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/MTTFXkzR/36-DC7...F1008-F037.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/XvnhSGhs/63-EA7...-E492-F159.jpg

It was a little intimidating to cut up a brand new core support.

https://i.postimg.cc/cLy2h5cy/4-EC93...5-AB1-B2-E.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/JzNg2cTy/59-C52...-AF9-E08-D.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/76sjNHKm/D912-E...9369-DABED.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/j2B9G80f/10-D25...F19-D550-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/KvgCnyBD/1-F5-E...-D10346520.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/y6GwgNgN/044-A1...132-FBAE55.jpg

Nice work...

Looks good to me.

Thank you, Thank you

I might grab some from my local Napa store tonight just to play with it and see how it bends. I am starting to enjoy bending brake lines.

So I have stared at this and stared and this over and over. I put a seat in my car and looked at my wiring and noticed that when my left foot is
resting (road trip) it would actually lay right on top of the harness. So I moved all my wire to the side to keep them out of harms way. I have also
consider putting a dead pedal with some dimple die holes on the left to rest my foot. I will try to find a picture of what I am talking about. You
also have to remember we use our left foot to push ourselves back in the seat when when we are driving spiritly off the race track.


http://garagescene.net/_data/i/uploa...9830f61-me.jpg

214 Chevy and ScotI thanks for the compliments.

Marty, The wires are stretched out down and across the floor of the car at the moment. Once I get them correctly routed the will come out the fuse panel and loop up and over to the dash area with the exception of a few going to the rear of the car. I have actually contemplated flipping the fuse box so they come out the top.

I finished up the pulleys and the serpentine belt.

https://i.postimg.cc/QtschZnT/EADC00...2-F09373-F.jpg

Then it was time to test fit the core support and mock up the front end. It’s still in primer until i see what other mods will be needed. It will all come back a part a few more times yet. Took several attempts of shimming the fender supports to get the spacing close. I have been test fitting the radiator and figuring out a mounting strategy. The original radiators bolted directly to the core support with no form of isolation or vibration control. I want to come up with a better solution. If anyone has some mounting options to share I would like to see them.

https://i.postimg.cc/t4Khvx3D/72-C54...866-C5-CB0.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FK00MHGv/35-D4-...062-EC0-A1.jpg

What about a simple cradle support for the radiator? GM used this design on later builds for many cars. I'm sure you could find brackets from other models you could integrate. Try Corvette since it used narrow straps on top and not a full width cover. Going this route will help with finding isolators that fit the brackets. Hopefully, it'll fit the radiator too.

Keep up the good work

Attached are a couple of photos of what Stielow used to mount the radiator on one of his recent builds, incorporating rubber isolators on top and bottom. I saw this after we had already fabricated mounts for mine; otherwise, would have tried to do something like this. The bottom of mine sits on rubber pads on the core support mount and the top sides are bolted to the core support.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5db627f9d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0592098c05.jpg


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Attached are a couple of photos of what Stielow used to mount the radiator on one of his recent builds, incorporating rubber isolators on top and bottom. I saw this after we had already fabricated mounts for mine; otherwise, would have tried to do something like this. The bottom of mine sits on rubber pads on the core support mount and the top sides are bolted to the core support.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5db627f9d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0592098c05.jpg


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Thanks Brian, I like the mounting ideas. Your car is approaching the finish line and looks great.

I have been sidelined with other things lately, but managed to get back to radiator mounting and core support modifications. I fabbed up some lower radiator mounts that bolt to the core support. I used riv. nuts to create the mounting threads. I cut a triangular opening on the left side to create a opening for the air intake. The area to the left of the radiator opening poised some issues due to the recesses and the way the sheet metal was formed. I wanted to use this area to mount the remote power steering reservoir. I decided to cut it out and make the panel flat, but have plans to further modify it to make more room.

https://i.postimg.cc/NfWvJxkc/B3-E12...E6-D54-AD3.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/HsJC9N5z/DB1649...2-B59359-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/7L48DYRt/EAF7-B...17-E10-CDF.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/cLwyV8F8/E5894-...B729-E1797.jpg

Put in a little more time on the core support today. I created a recessed area to accommodate the remote power steering reservoir.

https://i.postimg.cc/K8Jtzjpg/FB4-DF...7-C5-BC577.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/GpfYFNCL/F92-E8...EC686-E748.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/1tNFJHmp/38-A09...3028-EBF09.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/pL2DRzCH/A84228...6-F8-F8-D9.jpg