Wow green just went trough your whole thread loving all the fresh ideas you’ve incorporated, my favorite would have to the spoiler . You got an eye fore style .

Yeah, I know everyone likes pictures so I figured I would wait until I had enough.

Thanks Frank, but shouldn't your favorite be the hood vents?

Keeping with the Pro-Classic theme, I wanted the center console to appear as stock as possible but with some modern amenities for comfort. One-off CNC parts by Jonathon at Sparc Industries allowes for housing the Vintage Air A/C controller and some 22mm billet buttons. Five billet toggle switches from Ring Brothers control the windows and power door locks and another CNC machined panel holds the cup holders and power outlets.

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Just like the dash, I sent the center console to Tony Stitches in Washington and this is what he sent me back.

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A'ha...I've seen those pieces being made at Jonathan's shop and didn't know who they were for. He'll be working on a sweet billet grill for me here before too long. Just waiting on him to come and scan my car. He's local to me...

Billet grill....sick! Jonathon is a bad dude for sure.

Under carriage seam sealed, epoxy coated and raptor lined.

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Here are a few more random pics when I was working on the rear seat delete.

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Forgeline wheels, 19X12 rear and 19X10 1/2 front. Trying to keep it a little classic with the timeless 5 spoke wheel.

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Speedtech Extreme subframe connectors and crossmember along with the extreme tunnel.

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Wow Greg! Some awesome mods!

I don't really have plans to do anything to extreme with the car that would require a cage but I did want to put something in that might give a little protection and give me a place to mount some 4 point harnesses. Decided to make a removeable 4 point roll bar. Used steel reinforcement plates on the floors and 1/4 inch steel plates where the rear bars bolt into the package tray area. The interior cage is a bolt in removeable piece. All of the bars in the trunk area are welded in. The four exposed socket head bolts in the package tray area will have a billet cap that covers them. The round 1/4 plates in the package tray are welded directly to the down bars in the trunk not just to the sheet metal package tray.

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Full disclosure, I would call myself an average welder at best. I can mig weld but I have never tig welded. Truth be known, I am probably a better grinder than welder. All the exposed welds that look good, and all the structural welds on this car were not done by me. They were done be people who do it for a living. Don't want to take credit for things I didn't do.

Perfect body gaps....another disclosure. I had nothing to do with getting any of the gaps to look like this. I tried to gap the driver door my self and after about 3 hours of messing with the door hinges and the fender and trying to get everything in sync I wanted to blow my head off. Kudos to all you guys who know how the get the perfect body gaps. I swear I took pics of the passenger side also but I can't find them. It looks the same as the driver side though.

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Pretty much everything inside the car was taken down to bare metal so the entire interior got epoxied. Then it was covered with a layer of dynamat extreme. The inside roof panel was covered with a layer of second skin.

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I didn't realize the Speedtech cross brace / driveshaft loop extended up beyond the floorboard until I saw your pictures, thanks for posting.

The entire cross brace actually sits on top of the floor pan. The only place where it penetrates through the floor is about a 4 inch section on each side of the trans tunnel. This portion that extends through the floor is where you bolt on the brace for the torque arm. The ends of the cross brace get welded directly to the rockers above the floor pan and the subframe connectors come up through the floor and welded to the cross brace. The seat pans will have to be notched slightly on the left and right to go over the cross brace as well as down the middle to clear a portion of the subframe connector.

I know I had some pictures of the entire install process but I cant find them. Here is a picture of how they come through the floor pan.

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I will be using the Procar Elite seat. The biggest advantage of these seats is the low cost. For me they are a very comfortable seat with good support. They also had the most classic look of the other seats I looked at. Remember the whole "Pro-Classic" vibe. The seats will be recoverd in leather with a charcoal houndstooth insert from Relicate Leather.

I didn't want to use the diriect fit brackets which would have raised the height of the seat so I just cut up the sliders and made new reinforced mounting tabs so the sliders were a direct bolt on in the front. I moved the bolt holes in the rear of the floor pan to bolt in the rear sliders. With the seat being lower it put the seat back adjust handle very close to the floor. It didn't seem like it would work by the time I put in sound deadner, underlayment and carpet so I notched the rocker portion to make some more room. I know that rocker panel is structural, so we did weld in some gussets and used 1/8 steel to replace the portion I cut out.

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Speedtech Extreme Subframe and Speedtech Extreme Inner Fenders

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Great job Greg and nice attention to detail. Enjoyed all the pics.

Not much of an update but the car is now in full epoxy and ready to move on to the body work phase. Every part of this car was taken down to bare metal and the appropriate coatings have been used where needed, including Por-15, Rust Mort, Epoxy, Weld Thru Primer and SEM Rock-it undercoating. The epoxy on the body is over bare metal, no body filler has been used as of yet.

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Impressive for being over bare metal.

I second that...

Thanks Jay. Glacier Blue is on my short list of final colors. You did an amazing job on your build. Love that color combo witht the stripe.

Few pics of the Speedtech/Dutchman full floater rear, Speedtech torque arm and Stoptech brakes.

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Nice progress, it looks great.

Very nice workmanship on your car Greg, and great thread! I'm working on getting the exact same Extreme package in my '69. Did your torque arm crossmember fully contact the rockers? I had to make an extension for mine (all orig sheetmetal) to take up a decent gap. The subframe connectors could have been a 1/2" longer too in my case. Thanks!

Yes, I think I just got lucky in my case. I was actually surprised. I did not need to add or trim any material off the crossmember or subframe connectors. They laid perfect the first time. Funny because after I mocked them up, they fit so good I thought to myself I must be doing something wrong.

Obviously highly modified but what center console did you start with there?

Started off as a Fesler console.

Commence with the body work

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That's no easy task! Takes a lot of time and talent. Enjoy the process!!!!!

I have a friend from California who is here in Utah doing the body work for me. He comes out usually once or twice a month. Hoping I can learn some of the tricks of the trade but I agree it's definatley a talent. What a long and tedious process.

As the bodywork continues, TJ at Atomic Machine and Design is making me some billet caps to cover the exposed socket head bolts where the roll bar mounts into the package tray. Here is some pics of the cad work and the 3D printed prototype. Two piece design, will be held in place with magnets.

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Not much of an update. Body work is progressing nicely. Should have a few pics to post up later this evening. Finally started to organize the garage and take inventory of all the parts I have in different areas of my house. Wegner WAK033 LS front drive, BTR Trinity LS7 intake manifold and a set of Wegner hidden coil valve covers. For those that don't know, running the triple master cylinder set can cause somewhat of a clearance issue for certain valve covers. I wanted to keep the coils on the valve covers so I went with the "short" version from Wegner. Although they look shiney, the valve covers are actually just the raw finish. They are being sent to Ring Brothers to be painted orange along with the block and heads.

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About 40% done. It's looking really good. It is laser straight and the gaps are perfect.

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Greg,

Where did you get those d-ring bolt on tie downs?


https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/att...8&d=1628971327

Those are from Speedtech.

https://speedtechperformance.com/pro...down-brackets/

:thumbsup: