Damn! Fantastic fab work and then some.Love this build...

Lets start to build the intake manifold.
After extensive searches I was not able to find anything like this been made.
So first one of its kind. Same sad Kenne Bell and few twin screw specialist from Sweden witch turns out to be great help in this.
Twin screw supercharger was invented in Sweden by Alf Lysholm.
Thats why all twin screws are referred to as "Lysholms"
But Kenne Bell is the only one with Lysholms/Autorotors idea, with 6 by 4 rotor pack design. Far superior to others in my mind.
I feel lucky, as I've had a chance to visit supercharger factory three times.

You will found out that this build is highly dependent of friends..
Man, it good to have alot of skilled friends..

First I set the blower on the engine with piece of I-beam..just to get visual reference.

At that point I had 4.2L blower, witch I did installed to 572 Hemi. But thats another story.

Next I started to draw 1:1 scale plan what kind it need to be.
What kind of air space will I need and get.
Bottom floor spoilers where an a idea but tno needed them.
I already had my special made intercooler core arrived from Europen core factory.
I ordered it as 2 stack 50mmx100mmx500mm( 2"x4"x25")
So it will have two cool shocks, instead of one thicher core. That could suffer from heat soak more.
Capacity to cool over 2000Hp.
With ambient cooled water/coolant.
On the sided I need space for Bosch Ev-14 (1500cc) injectors, one per cylinder.

Under the stock intake is coil packs, couple knock sensors and some cast bosses. They all need to go or atleast relocate.

First plan was to machine it out of 6061 billet, thanks to near by top cnc shop. again one of my friend worked there as sales manager. But when he quit, so did my hopes for billet intake.

Next idea was to make molds and cast it from aluminium with yet another friend. Hes been doing molds and casting (mainly stainless) past 20+ year.

We where just about to start fabbing the molds when yet another friend offered to help. He has huge new cnc-press brake. 100.000t, that 1 million kilograms. 2mil lbs.
So we made the base plate with that. From fresh 10mm plate.
Bend it like it was A4 printer paper. LoL
But right on the money. Great!
I was educated that aluminium ages, old plate brakes..

Now I've made welding jig, from 15x150mm I bean, cutted in half, welded it to 50x100 with 6mm wall bottom tubes.
Will fit to my powder coating oven for pre-heating.

Next cutting front and back plates from 10mm plate and injector bases from 50x50x10mm L-bar.

and I still have just a few details to figure out..My design lives...All the time..

Intake build continues.

Pieces are made, beveled then after preheat oven welded. Was heavy to lift to oven, complete jig and all...
Those angles are so that I've place to mount injectors and fuel rails. As was in my CAD (Cardboard Aided Design)
Not gonna weld bungs on it. Just mill spec bore for them.
Never mind the finish of those welds. There is 3 passes.
Main thing is that its over the surface and penetrated.
All will be machined smooth.
Made top plate, first, will not be final one. I can tell you that.

Then we arrive point of my life when I got job at trade school machine shop foreman so now I got tools, a lot of machining machines and full welding shop other side of the hall... You will see that also..

At summer holiday, I reassembled the engine to manual milling machine table and let the chips fly..

Back to this, after talked with Swedes again. Desided that I need to make risers to make room for air. So I machined them. made a step joint so I can be sure they don't move or leak. milled o-ring groove and holes for allen bolts on it.

Next will make mounting face and - plate for the supercharger to be bolted to intake.

looking mighty!

Been awhile.. But be sure project has goon forward.. alot..

Lets continue build this intake. Next task, build intake top plate and to mill recess to it for supercharger mounting plate. Bolts for that can be on the sides, but front and back edges are under the blower. So I milled step edge on those. The plate will lock tight against O-ring when blower is lowered and pushed back. Top plate is bolted with countersink bolts and had to check twice that bolts clear all the rest. A lot of going on here.

Then copied the supercharger mounting bolt pattern and discharge port shape and location and transfer it to mounting plate. Straight, super important thing here.

Finally supercharger is bolted on top of the intake. First time. Now can take it off the engine and take it to our large vertical boring machine to face off front and back faces. With machine that size and options, its easy to do this kind of tasks. Reat time to practice Heidenhain programming..

Same time I started to do next cool parts. Supercharger intake flance. Took photo of the supercharger, imported is as canvas to Fusion360. After drawing it until I was satisfied, then 3d printed it out from PLA, just to veryfy that it will work. Print quality isnt great but dont care, it works. I transfer model to Surfcam and made toolpaths for it and started our Haas mill. Came out awesome. Have super plans how to continue from here. Again, finnish afer machining isnt super great but dont care, it will see some tig-glue so it will get worse before gets much better.

Next to open front and back faces for intercooler fittings. ¨Then need to design, draw and machine a plate to seal everything up.

does anybody like to see more?

Definitely custom!!!!! :thumbsup:

Glad to see you're still working on this and making progress! Thanks for sharing.

Wow!! :hail::hail:

Thx Trey,
Build is away ahead, actually there's like two things that are lacking. Diamond to make my pistons (after 3 orders 2 years of waiting) and me posting here.

Also the lack of comments makes me think that here isnt intress of builds like this.. since this is not a collection of parts from those usual companies.

Lets continue, making the twin throttle body intake elbow for 4.2L, 4.7L and 4.9L Kenne Bell superchargers.

After internet search couldnt find 5" thin wall 90 degree elbow with 1 r (5" this case) radius. So need to make some.

First draw a simple hammer form in Fusion 360, holes at the ends are for vise grips, hold the plane down. Use pieces of rubber hoses at noses of the pliers, dont make the panel.
Then 3D printed it out of plain PLA and started anneailing 2mm aluminium with sharpie and propane torch.
When you have burned the sharpie off, the aluminium is soft. Depends how much you shape it, you may need to redo the annealing.

After shaping with plastic slapper and shrinking I had four halfs done. Time to get them fit the machined flance, used machinest square and laser to determine where to cut the overlapping parts off.

Next task make mounting tool for the flance and bold it tight so it dosent deform under welding. To keep it straight. Tig-welded the halfs together and I also machined flance with O-ring groove for 102mm LS throttle body. Those got welded to open ends of the eblows.

After all was welded, I spend some time to file the seams and slapped them all smooth. I took it to work, machined mounting surface to our vertical milling machine and squared the TB flances, also the special flance in the middle. more that later..

That kind of vertical mill is powerful tool to have. Work area is measured in meters (feets), Table can be turned in one thousands of degree (0.001') or -millimeters. Just get your bearings with 3D measuring tool..
This kind of job is easy for this kind of machine, just turn the table 180 degree and you get both size parallel to each other with same mounting. Or 90 and machine the face of the middle flance. Everything it parallel and square and straight. Even machined the main flance straight as last task with another set up.

So lets get to back the square flance in the middle. I did re-machined that O-ring groove again. Thats how much it shrank in welding.
Anybody want to guess what is for?
Something outside of the box..again..

I appreciate what you're doing. Different is good. We have good traffic here but it seems all they do is read, not post. Please don't take that as non-interest. :thumbsup:

I agree with Jody that not much posting going on, but as a machinist and car guy, there is definitely interest in what you are doing. I have been wanting to machine and have slowly been engineering a billet intake for my car but serious lack of time gets in the way.

Keep up the awesome work and showing off your skills to us, it is appreciated!

I love following this build as you are doing things that most of us can't do. Learning a bunch here that is for sure.

What others have said applies to me, too. I'm very busy in my life and simply don't have time to be communicative. I much prefer forums over IG and the like so I love seeing content like this.

Thanks

Exactly. IG is fine for just looking @ images but it lacks what Forums are best for.... Information. Details. Discussions. Sharing ideas & knowledge.

Im there too. Like in many of my posts, I asking for discussion, ideas and feed back..

Somebody may know or notice something I have or going to booger up and dont know it yet..

So let continue, now Im going to show you, just you. You have to promise that you don't show this or talk about this to anyone outsider..

This is top secret stuff!!

Well have to confess that don't know if this actually works or not.. one those one off things.. Havent figured it out 100% yet..

AND I didnt come up this. Entirely, saw a post in IG of one drag race Mustang in somewhere NW of US. It had some odd squar tubing thingy bolted between throttle body and the supercharger and it had like legs sticking out on both sides of the supercharger and had blow off valves bolted on the ends..
So I had to contact the owner and ask more info about that. He told me that had come up as how to control the boost of the Kenne Bell-twin screw and best part that it works great.

I told him that I may copy his idea but would build it differently and take the idea even longer.
We have talked a lot since, tossed ideas back and forward..

Went and bought two cheap oriental copies of known blow off valves from evil-bay, just to get started. May buy real ones later.

So I designed and machined a kind of plenium for two blow off valves. But the air they bleed, is collected and circulated back to intake side of the supercharger. Between case and the throttlebodies.. Had to make those flances and tube between blow offs and intake. Also had to machine the body of the by pass to make a sealing flance to it.

Idea is to used as light springs in them, just so that valves are closed at natural state. When engine is running on vacuum (0.1 or more), valves would work as by-pass valves. Vacuum would be connected to " normal port", on top of the membrane.

Fun fact: Did you know that the twin screw is the only real compressor in automotive use that dosent leak (actually compresses air inside of it = compressor)so with out by-pass valve of some kind it tryes to suck it self to "bottle", heats up really bad and may even get damaged by doing so. So it needs some by- passing to survive.

And when engine goes on boost, the boost itself starts to push those 2" valves open and bleed off, back to intake. Loosing boost pressure.
Why back you may ask. Cos air is taken from the "cold" side of then intake after the massive special made intercooler, or intercoolers in this case.
Now the clever part, by controlling with ECU the PWM given dome pressure, I can adjust boost any given time, by traction, by gear, by power level tune or just like overtake button.

The part I havent figured out yet is the pneumatic valve. How to get it to work properly. First it deliveries vacuum on top of the membrane and when the boost comes on it turns and lets the PWM pulse through it but not to the intake where it takes the vacuum. We dont want pressurized air leak that way. Also it has to breaths so the PWM pulse would works fast and accurate.

The plan is to use compressed air as pressure source, car will have air compressor for the suspension coil over air cups. Engine ECU, swedish made Maxxecu PRO can handel the task.

By the way, Lysholm-factory calculated that 4.9L supercharger in my 8.3L engine with 3" upper pulley and my custom ordered 9"ish ATI Superdamber the boost pressure is just 54psi~3.78bars !! thats over x2 too much. Aim is for 1.5 bars max~ 21psi. The 4.9L supercharger is nuts. It puts out wopping just shy of 1m3 (one cubic meter = 100.000L) ~ (26417 gal) of air per minute. (to be exact: 0.98 m3 =98000L=25888gal per minute)

Nowdays there may be smarter option to this, again Im nnot 100% sure but Turbosmart has those electro-macnetic bypass valves of modern torquemanagement vehicles.. they may work in this application as well..

Next I'll do something cool and precise..

Well, lets do something else.

as a transmission I'm using 5 speed automatic from Mercedes.
Some will straight think that NAG-1. Close.
Same 5-stronic family but when Nag-1 actually is W5A580 (580Nm of torque rating) mine is W5A900, biggest and baddest of them all.

Used on AMG 65, Maybach 57 & 62 and SLR McLaren super car. This came out of rear ended Maybach at Florida.

I'm controlling it with Danish-made Of gear-controller, shifter out of e46 BWM, paddles of of AMG. More that later date.

Some many remember old picture like from 10 years ago that I posted about mating engine and trans with plywood adapter. That was just to get them hang to chassis when I was building it. Well, time and machines has changed some degree from those days.

At work place I studied how to use our 3D measuring arm, how to get points straight to our tool path program (Surfcam). It tells you the locations of the bolts, center of the crank, the hight difference of the flexplate vs block suface, converter bolt flance vs trans bolting surface. 'You even can get the shape of the block and trans housing if you like. As you can see on the photo I did copy some of the shade.

Took my engine block and trans with me one day and got to work.

Side story:
Social media showed its good side again. Was watching drag week live and saw Canadian team racing with grey twin turbo SRT-10 Ram, trans was out and I could see a orange flex plate bolted at back of the engine. Got me thinking.

Contacted the guy through Instagram and asked about it. He was kind enough to give me the contact info of the shop that makes them in California. Long story short, year later I got a custom SFI-proof flex plate between Viper and my trans.

Just needed to ream just a bit bolt holes bigger for ARP bolts.

Machined locator bolts for the block side, (normal unc-bolts with locator hole drilled on the head) and locator pins for the trans bolt holes. That way the measuring arms measuring pointy pen thing will always be in the center and right depth of every hole.

When design was right, upload the files, sourced material and needed tools to Haas-mill and pressed the green button.

Have to say the feeling was unreal when the adapter plate just slided on the dovels on the block the first time. The trans went in also like it was intended that way. I did machine an test piece, went to back of the cranks trans axle bearing housing w/ pointy head. Put that pointy thing back to trans oil pump "axle" to verified that everything was ok. Used dial-indicator and turned then test piece inside the mains and see are those two centric to each other.

Next the trans will go to get overhauled and upgraded, converter gets to be upgraded as well. keeping it as stock stall but have to fix the lock up problem that all 5-stronic converters have. Lock clutch is riding on just a little bit all the time. It need a kid of plate spring to be put in and all the vein solderd on, not just stamped.

Something else on next post....

And this is why I love Bulletin Boards.

The knowledge level here is incredible and it will always be here and easy to find.


Thank you again for sharing this build.

Lets get back to intake. It houses an stacked intercooler, two different coolers build in one set of headplates. So it needs end tanks to core and way of coolant get in and out. Let build those.

Core was designed and build by leading company in UK. Now days part of PWR group, as is C&R in US. Designed for 2000hp and huge supercharger pushing a lot of air as states earlier. Length of the whole intake and this kind of V10 has long intake. Amost 2 ft.
Core is 500mm (19.6" long), 100mm (4" wide) and 92mm (3.6") thick.

End tanks are milled from 20mm (just over 3/4") thick bar of billet, they have center wall dividing two sides. Draw up and made toolpaths.

Next was coolant connections, they where also easy parts, just machined AN20 male fitting on a lathe (manual), two different length so nut can be easily tighten. Other end has shoulder recess to fit the end tank opening, easier to weld on both sides. Now on later date, these are going to chance to modern push'n'lock automotive nylon fittings. Don't have room for big AN-fitting. You'll see when we get there.

So how to seal and be serviceable. Designed pieces of the manifold to be lifted off, allowing core to be lowered in its place, sealed with O-ring, bolt to place, another end plate out side, houses special polyurethane seals for the AN studs and O-ring to seal to manifold.

Machined it little rough tool paths on purposely to give it some texture. Mounting with sunked M8 allen bolts. Made plates to both ends of the intake, now coolant can be connected many different ways to it.

When welding all together, core will have side plates that will devide hot (center) off from cold (sides) side of the intake by simply been welded to core and bolted through top plate. After talked with the swedes, desided to machine extra space on bottom side of the top plate of the intake. milled off 5mm (almost 1/4") from hot side to give room to breath.

Enjoy,

Yep, Once again I am blown away by this thread and I can't wait to see more posts.

Thx, Marty.

Exhaust collectors, 5 to 1. Sure you can buy them, for me buying them from US and shipping here, after all the cost (shipping & taxes) they cost 1200€ (almost $1500/each) For that money I could just buy billet ones from Elmer Racing Shop here in Finland. They make worlds best billet collectors.
(elmerracing.com) non pay'd add.

so, you guested right, I gonna make my own:

First little calculations, as every good project starts with. Stainless steel, Slip fit 2" primaries,with 30 degree bends and 3.5" collectors
(We Finns have a saying that every project that has been properly planned thought is just starting away from been finish.) Well begun is half done

Then tested my calculations with cardboard (CAD=Cardboard Aided Design). Will the cutting ends meet at the middle and will the diameter fit for v-band.

Then designed cutting tool for my band saw, 3d printed from normal PLA-plastic. Also printed an clocking tool, how much I need to turn the pipe between cuts.
After all where cut, run them with polishing wheel, just make them look little nicer, specially at inner sides, I can polish them good on outside after welding. Not so much from the inside, center of the collector.

Then took 10mm - 3/8" steel plate and cut pieces of 2" exhaust tubing, mig welded them to calculated positions to use as welding fixture. Holes at the plate are for inside purge Argon gas. Tig welded them together, Added the v-band, off the fixture.

As you can see at the alst picture, they did deform on me doing the welding, they gather together little bit but I can live with that. Every primeries will have a press formed sleeve over it at the joint to collector, that way my lambda sensors don't get any fresh air between primeries and collectors.

What am I building next...:wacko:

You've got too much time on your hands. :lol: Nice work! :thumbsup:

Nice work Juhani!
Been dreaming up some 3D printed stuff as well.

Thx Joe,

Printer is just one more tool. Mine is old but builded and has print area of 20" square, got scanner and blue diode table laser also. They will be used in this build...

Nice fab work!

Thx Corey.

Results of 30 years of want to learn and be better. Continues everyday.

As my (now past) friend Gene sad: Everyday is a school day.

No Jody,

Im just poor blue collar guy and born to country where you make you stuff yourself..

This is my interpretation of been build and not bought LoL

Lets continue. Even it looks like I don't get conversation going here.. go figure..

Last I showed how I made my collectors, is't time to build stainless headers.

Idea was to design those build blocks ( again, buying set and importing it here is way too expensive) But I found file from Grabcad that was right radius for me. So I started printing those out of PLA, no need any exotic material here. To make one set of shorties.

Next I draw and printed fixture to cut tubes in my band saw. Glued pieces of bicycle inner tube in it. Now it clamps much tighter.

I draw up a flance of ex side of the cylinder head. Made it so that every primeries has own, not all bridged together.

Made program to our vertical mill with Heidenhain.
Side note: If here are any machinist, if you look that picture, do you catch the great idea there?
I'll point it out: Table has upright 90 degree bench on it. There is "waste"plate bolted to that bench. Now you can mill that straight, or make a needed groove, an edge, or like me here, welded piece of axle and mill that to fixture for the flances. I can mill 1mm deeper and dont have to worry about hitting the expensive and hard bench. After I'm done, just cut the piece off and mill the surface flat again. You can see the groove there at the bottom, I used it to get my supercharger intake flance bolted vertical to it when I milled it to square and flat.

First I milled aluminium ones, with M6 threaded hole, to bolt first build block on them. Then chanced material to 10mm stainless and made real flances, with little recess around the port hole. For the tube to sunk, much better to weld.

Bolted aluminium ones to cylinder head and started to build primeries. So of my printed block broke right away or where loose so I secured the rotation with electric tape. What ever works/goes
Sorry about low quality picture, had to dig it out of old garage camera.

When all "tubes" where made, made sure that all had space to grow, connected to collector (witch was hold in its place with small made fixture witch was bolded to frame tube with coulpe hose clamps.) was time start transfer shapes to stainless. Cut and tack, 3 tacks to every joint.

I am as always critical about my welds (could be better), header came out "ok". I have stainless weld seam cleaning machine, all welds will be cleaned. Color is actually bad. My dry sump pump fit under it ( maybe, mounting system is still ongoing prosess in my head.

Then it was time to test fit the sleeves that I made with shop press. When using slide fit collectors those are good to use, reduse air leaking witch lambda don't like. Smaller end slide over the tube, it will be welded and bigger end goes over collector. Then little eyelets for spring to hold everything together.

Then I did the driver side, wanted them to look alike, even its not 100% possible for many reasons. One thing left to do is weld bungs for K-sensor (exhaust gas temperature) to every primeries. With that, again I run it to no space needed situation. Have room underside but tip of the sensor should be at main flow of the exhaust and that is on top of the tube, gases comes out on top of the exhaust port.. Really dont want to expose so much of the sensor. Would lead to premature sensor failure. Have to think solution..

Been thinking about stainless/ceramic wrap (dont like the look)or spray/powder ceramic coating on them. They will color up nicelly but heat control in mind.

Who's gonna guess what im going to show next?

Next thing is trans rear mount and tunnel.

First made tube that was used to bold middle plate to chassic, then thought I should do trans rear mount. Easier put in now than later. Draw design up, made toolpagths and wipped it out of block of aluminium.

Trans tunnel: wanted to make it as strong as I can. Pushing over 2000Nm ~1500ftlbs tq through automatic (any) transmission, better get ready for anything.
I used packing tape to get my hands on actual pattern. That way I could measure radius and all needed to turn this in to CAD. Made model with Fusion360, send it to work and continued w/ Solidworks. Turn it to .dxf. Tranfer file to cnc-plasma talbe, cut pieces out of 6mm (1/4") steel. Next walked to cnc-brake, insert program and bended piece to form. Worked pretty good at first time.

Grinded large reliefs and tig welded allaround. Short (2") seams here and there to keep heat build up away.

:thumbsup: