Quick update….

Not much progress has been made on BISKWIK. My kids are out of school for the summer, so I spend my days off from the Fire Department with the family. I am contemplating working on it after they go to bed. We’ll see how that works out.

I got another update from Jeg’s that the Lokar shifter I ordered back in May was not going to ship until October now!!!! What?!?! I get on the phone with Customer Support and find out what shifters they have in stock. Low and behold they have one, ONE Lokar shifter that has a single bend for a 4L60E. It of course is a “Smart Shifter” which OF COURSE means it’s more expensive than the original shifter I ordered. After some more talking, I was very cordial btw, they were able to get the price of the replacement shifter within $45 of the original one. Talk about markup! I am very happy they worked with me and impressed with the customer service. Long story short, bought the shifter and BAM! It was on my doorstep in three days!!! :thumbsup: I am hoping the length will be adequate for my setup.

I also ordered some sheet metal to patch up the holes in the floor pans from where I removed parts of the roll cage. I will update with more pics soon.

Hello Everyone! Not too much to update. I haven’t spent much time on it while my kids were out for the Summer. School is back in session, so I will be able to get some work days in here and there hopefully.

The only thing I’ve accomplished recently is starting on prepping the interior to weld in patch panels for where I removed parts of the roll cage. I will be working on that and the firewall panel before I move on to anything else.

I quickly learned I need to get a corded angle grinder. This little bit of work took four batteries using a sanding disc and a wire wheel brush. I’m hoping I can do it justice with the patches as I will be learning how to weld as I go. Yay! Go me!

The patches that are in the pics are from when the cage was installed. I have not mud-daubered any of my welding yet....

My Makita 4.5" angle grinder has been one of my best purchases ever. It's a corded unit.

Good luck with the patches. Practice first. Clean the metal well before adding the new patches.

Yes sir! I definitely will. A lot of OJT going on here. :D

Ok… it has been a little bit since my last post. Not too much going on unfortunately. I have managed to get a 4-speed hump modified to work with my shifter so it will be offset in the center console and have also started on disassembling the dash to install the Dakota Digital gauges. The rat’s nest of wiring will be fun to tackle. The shifter is not mounted in the pic, btw.

I also figured out how to get the Vintage Air system moved inboard a bit to clear the firewall so I don’t have to use their chincy plastic cover plate.

Now, does anyone have any suggestions on what to use to cover the gaping hole? A smooth firewall would be great, but I’ll be real. That is beyond my skill level and wallet of course.

You could just make a plate. There's been a number of build that have a plate covering the hole in the firewall. They also tend to run the hoses in and out through the plate.

What about a factory 'heat-only' firewall cover?

Agreed. Make a plate and use grommets or a bulkhead to run your hoses though the firewall... or looks like that hole on the left side may already have enough room so as not to add more holes to the firewall.

I like the factory "heat only" plate idea too and then you could just use grommets.

Thanks for the input! I have thought about the plate and bulkhead, but was concerned about routing the hoses under the dash. It is a bit cramped for where the exit through the firewall would be.

The “heater only” cover looks like a viable option as well.

I have thought about a plate and touting the lines through the kick panel vent then up through the round panel under the fender. For those that have done that, how do you block off the air coming in from the cowl? Does that make sense?

Some 'flat plate' covers look out of place vs the factory 'heat only' pieces. I like things when they look like they were made to be there.

Of course, completely reworking the firewall can create something better. But when you're picking & choosing your fab-list battles, the covers always win out for me to keep things moving along.

That's how we did mine in my Firebird actually... just made plates to block off the cowl but be sure you caulk them really good or you'll get water inside!

Hello Everyone! I’m finally getting a little bit of progress made. I was deployed for a couple weeks to Sanibel Island after Hurricane Ian but I am back now! I actually had a couple of solid days to work on BISKWIK. Exciting! I know!! :lmao:

Anywho… I managed to get the LOKAR shifter mounted and access hole drilled for the shift cable. Unfortunately since the cable runs out the back of the shifter in this model, I have to raise the bench seat about an inch to clear the bracket and cable. Not a big deal, but still something else that is getting added to the ever expanding To-do list. I’ll get pics of that fiasco soon.

I started working on getting the Dakota Digital gauges installed. The dash had been worked over before to fit the smaller AutoMeter gauges, so I had to take my trusty half round file to the openings to enlarge them for the round Dakota gauges. That was super fun. It took a little bit, but I got it done.

I started to try and make heads or tails of the wiring debacle while planning on placement of the Dakota Dash module and the Holley Terminator X Max ECU. While doing some research on Google University to figure how to wire up the Dakota gauges, I learned I need to get a bridge module from Dakota for the gauges to get signal from the Holley ECU. 🤦🏻
That will be on order ASAP.

While I was under the dash looking at the wiring with all the daylight coming in from the gaping hole in the firewall, I decided to tackle that project. My kindergarten skills paid off once again as I was able to use a Sharpie, measuring tape, and some scissors to make a high tech template out of a cardboard insert which was in a box for something my wife bought…. Not car parts of course.

I made up my template and transferred it to some sheet metal I sourced from eBay. I used a paint can to draw radius the corners. I was able to get it cut out pretty straight with my angle grinder. I don’t have a good work area or a lot of proper equipment yet, so a piece of 4X4 post and a size 11 held the metal in place while I cut it. It did the job. :thumbsup:

I plan on cutting the heads of some 5/16 bolts and tacking them onto the plate. That way I can install it and provide mounting points for the Vintage Air setup. It will definitely look better than the chincy plastic piece that was provided with the kit.

I had looked at the Heat only cover and really like it. However, I have to pick and choose how to allocate funds and since that was more “want” than “need” I decided to make a panel. I’ll decide if I will color match it or paint it black like the heat only cover. We shall see. Still deciding on how/where I will run the A/C and heater hoses. I will have a better idea once I have the VA unit in place with a solid mounting setup to see how much room I’ll have.

Looking good so far…I should’ve paid more attention in Kindergarten!

Looking good Matt! Keep after it.

It was the best three years of my education!

Thank you, Scott! I’m glad I got a little time to work on it. I was hoping to be able to hear the motor by the end of the month, but I may have to push it to by end of the year.

Hello everyone! I would like an opinion. I am thinking of mounting my electronics under the dash as pictured. I was planning on having the Holley ECU project out the opening as pictured for all the hook ups. When I make my center console, I was thinking of having a small window so that the LED’s could be seen to make sure all is working correctly. Above the Holley ECU, I would have the Dakota Gauge module along with the Dalit Bridge Module. The wiring and cable can be run up and over the mounting plate and then behind it.

What do you think? Just not a lot of room with the VA unit in the passenger side.

Hello Everyone. I have another “need your opinion” post. I’m trying to figure out how I am going to run the exhaust. The car has been underbraced when it had the cage installed. I do like the fact that the X-frame is beefed up a little. The issue is that the tubing interferes with where the exhaust should run. I do not want to run it under the bracing as that would kill the ground clearance. I had thought of getting some 3.5” square tubing and welding it between the bracing and the frame to make a channel for the exhaust.

Don’t mind the battery cable in the pics. I haven’t started the electrical fiasco yet.

Is there anyone that has any experience in this area or could just give me some insight? I do appreciate any and all info and advice.

Not very familiar with the frame layout on a Biscayne but what about cutting out a section of the brace where you want the exhaust to go and replacing it with a section that has a pass-thru for the exhaust tubing. Might get to have your cake and eat it, too.

That’s kind of what I was thinking of doing. I was just seeing if anyone that had any experience in framework could chime in with thoughts. Unfortunately I know it will probably look like an after thought, which technically it is. 🤦🏻*♂️
I just want to make sure that making the changes will keep the rigidity of the underbracing.

Straight headers Matt. Sorry…😜😜

Ooooohhhh…. We got comedians up in here! :lmao:
Lake pipes would be better or even a couple hair dryers dumping out the side.

Have you been driving the Chevelle any, Scott?

Question… Does anyone have two of these laying around they don’t need? They are fittings for the heater on the Vintage Air unit. I have straights now and need the 45’s. Unfortunately, they are on back order until after Christmas. 🤦🏻*♂️

Not too much to update. I did manage to fab up the electronics mount and received some goodies in the mail.

I took some planning cues from Marty (syborg tt) and picked up some Mag Daddy mounts and Velcro straps. I didn’t have time to save up the twist ties. :lolhit:

I will look tomorrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appreciate that, Marty! They actually arrived earlier this week, surprisingly.

I’ve been tackling the wiring here and there when I get the opportunity. I may have to start working on it at night when everyone is in bed.

I’ll post some updates soon. Thanks again!

I finally got out to the garage and into the attic. Unfortunately I don’t have one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for looking, Marty. I did receive the fittings and will be moving on to completing the A/C setup once I finish the main wiring.

I have the panel made up and am in the process of mocking up the layout of the electronics and the wiring. Once I get it how I like it, I'll take it apart and fine tune the panel and paint it.

Just a tiny update…

BISKWIK got some new shoes and improved stance!

Here are the Before and After shots.

Matt, that looks soooo much better. Well done sir.

Thank you, Scott!

Hopefully it will be moving under its own power soon.

Not much of an update. We went on vacation early February and I got pretty sick upon return to the tune of 103 fevers with meds and a total weight loss of 19 lbs in a week and a half. I was in bed for three days and wasn’t able to eat. We are guessing it was a strain of some type of Flurona. 🤷🏻*♂️ A month later and I’m up four lbs and my stamina definitely isn’t what it used to be. I’ll get back to where I was, mainly because I’m stubborn.

I did get a new radiator/ fan setup for BISKWIK though. I’ll be working on getting that mocked up with the MSD Solid State relay. More pics to come!!!

I did manage to get the fans mounted and the setup temporarily in place. I wanted to make sure there was plenty of clearance with the steering box and the accessory drive. All looks good so far! I just have to massage a couple holes on the fan shroud to get them to line up properly.

I was also able to make some progress on making panels to fill in the holes between the back seat and the trunk. I did not seal it off completely, but it is a vast improvement over what it was. The wheel wells have a healthy layer of undercoating in them, so I did not add any material to the interior.

Once I completed that task, I employed the help of my Mini-Me and installed the seatbelts in the back. Once we got those bolted in, the backseat was put back in place. It’s a little dirty and will be cleaned, but it’s starting to look like a car inside again!!!!!

The seat cushion got tweaked a little over the jump area while putting it back in. I will be pulling it back out to address that and make it uniform again.

Finishing the wiring and fuel system will be next…. Hopefully.

Stay tuned!!🤙🏼

The smiles on those kids faces says it all. Makes everything well worth it.