|
Not quite ready to try the electric steering?
|
Definitely let us know how you like it, Andrew. I've heard good things from people who have put them in their C10s. I've considered it even though the truck isn't a performance build.
The cover plate came out looking good. I hope the electric booster works well for you. |
Quote:
Andrew |
Before the next update, I want to send a shout out to a great vendor. It is not often that a company surpasses my expectations, but Stainless Bros definitely has.
This is how they packaged one half of the 4" v-band clams that I received from them. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-615.md.jpg Each v-band was in it's own box and the clamp itself was in its own sealed bag. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-616.md.jpg The v-bands themselves are like jewelry. Each half indexes into the other, which is a great feature that makes it easier to align the pipes. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-617.md.jpg I was also able to make it out to my local Napa store and picked up a roll of 5/16" butyl tape. I used it so seal the back of the close-out panel that I made the other day. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-618.md.jpg I was also able to use the boot that came from DSE. This is a boot they use with their low angle vacuum assisted booster. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-619.md.jpg Once the iBooster is installed the plate isn't really visible. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-620.md.jpg I also started on the new brake lines. I am using 3/16" NiCopp for the front brakes and 1/4" NiCopp for the rear brakes. The 12mm flare to AN adapters are from Earl's. I am not really happy with how far they stick out, but I am not sure what there is to do about it. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-621.md.jpg I also got this Cummins turbo drain as a starting point for my drain. More on that in a future update. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/08/GTOV3-622.md.jpg Andrew |
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
|
Cover plate came out really nice. Car is definitely coming along.
Curious why you didn't use a flare nut on the line, that would thread directly into the master instead of an adapter? |
Quote:
Andrew |
I spent a little time at Vic's today working on various odds and ends.
This is a clever little part from Motion Raceworks. It's an oil inlet block that bolts to the top of the oil feed hole and seals with an o-ring. It then points the oil feed line straight out the side. This will connect to the oil feed line, which at the moment terminates at the front of the passenger side head. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/09/GTOV3-623.md.jpg A few days back Vic also made this fantastic mount for the Dominator ECU. It bolts in place of the glove box and will allow me easy access to the ECU connectors. Ignore the duct tape. I will be placing an order with Vintage Air soon to clean up the under-dash ducting in anticipation of having working AC in the car. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/09/GTOV3-624.md.jpg I also brought the shifter to see how it might fit inside the car. In the picture I have it sitting over the hole where my manual shifter was located. It is slightly offset to the driver's side. I am not really sure about the shifter placement yet. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/09/GTOV3-625.md.jpg Vic worked out the final placement of the waste gate and started on the fabrication of the needed plumbing. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/09/GTOV3-626.md.jpg It should have good priority flow in this location and provide an easy path to route the exhaust from the waste gate back into the downpipe. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/09/GTOV3-627.md.jpg Andrew |
Finally I can say I did a few things on the car, mostly by myself...LOL
Yesterday I received the last few parts that I needed to finish the new brake lines from the MC to the distribution block. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/12/GTOV3-630.md.jpg I also welded on this oil drain tube. Vic made a couple of adapters on the lathe and I welded it together. The welds are horrible, but it should hold. Because of how everything is situated, the drain has to take a slight jog to the passenger side immediately after coming out of the turbo. This is a turbo drain for a Cummins something or other. It is fairly flexible and is made out of stainless steel, so it is relatively easy to work with. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/12/GTOV3-628.md.jpg Once it makes the jog to the left is has to sweep right, under the up-pipe and under the exhaust manifold, then towards the drain in the side of the oil pan. I will extend this tube so it is all metal under the hottest pipes and there will be a short section of hose connecting the drain to the oil pan. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/12/GTOV3-629.md.jpg The waste gate discharge is tacked to the downpipe. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/12/GTOV3-631.md.jpg The downpipe itself is also tacked in place. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/12/GTOV3-632.md.jpg There is also a 4" v-band at the end of the downpipe that connects to this pipe that shoots the exhaust straight back. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/12/GTOV3-633.md.jpg I am not sure yet what's going to happen with the exhaust once it is past the transmission crossmember. Andrew |
:thumbsup:
|
So cool to see this car coming together for V3, Andrew. As was mentioned so much history. Keep up the great work. Can't wait to see it done and being put the paces...
|
Do a single exhaust that dumps behind the bumper so it's mainly hidden?
I've thought about doing this with the C10 just to keep costs down. All I want is a good sound. I don't care about seeing the exhaust tips. |
Quote:
https://www.classiccarstudio.com/wp-.../70_GTO-11.jpg I already have a 4" to dual 3" splitter from Burns Stainless. It will just be a matter of splitting out the pipes, adding 2 mufflers and tail pipes. Andrew |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Today's update is a bit random because we kind of jumped around doing various tasks. Since the brake lines were done, I figured it was about time to see if the iBooster actually works ad if we can bled the brakes. I have heard a lot of good things about the Motive Products brake bleeders, so I thought I would get one to try. I have to say that I will never bleed brakes any other way. The process was super simple and I barely spilled any brake fluid. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/14/GTOV3-634.md.jpg I got the version of the Motive brake blender that came with a MC cap that was compatible with the Tesla MC cap. It also works on many newer GM cars. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/14/GTOV3-635.md.jpg While I wasn't around, Vic changed the angle of the downpipe a little bit to move it a little further from the firewall. There is a little over an inch now. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/14/GTOV3-636.md.jpg Yesterday I also finished up the turbo oil drain pipe by welding on an extension that will feed the drain under the turbo hot parts and feed into the oil pan. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/14/GTOV3-637.md.jpg Vic also made these little tabs that position the coils a little higher and over. This was done to move the spark plug wires away from the downpipe. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/14/GTOV3-638.md.jpg Andrew |
Before talking about today's update, I realized that I really didn't mention how the iBooster feels. After bleeding the brakes, we powered up the iBooster and it just started working. The pedal effort is pretty light, but very smooth. Pedal travel is also fairly short before the pedal gets really hard to press. As of now I think the driving experience is going to be greatly improved over the manual brakes that I had before.
Today's update is also just a random collection of small projects. Last week I ordered all new ARP hardware for the intake lid and the intercooler. The included hardware was adequate, but silver cad plated bolts tend to look like garbage after a very short time. The ARP stainless hardware will look great for a long time. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/15/GTOV3-639.md.jpg I also finished installing the new, collapsable steering shaft and new u-joints from Borgeson. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/15/GTOV3-640.md.jpg I also finished up the oil drain for the turbo. Here is how it wraps around the up-pipe. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/15/GTOV3-641.md.jpg Then it goes under all of the turbo hot pipes, pointing at the fitting in the oil pan. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/15/GTOV3-642.md.jpg The only thing left is to put a bead on the 5/8" tube and add a short length of rubber hose between the tube and the oil pan fitting. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/15/GTOV3-643.md.jpg Lastly, I have been doing a lot of looking and thinking about where to mount the boost control solenoids. There is quite a bit of plumbing that needs to go between the wastegate, turbo compressor outlet, and the boost solenoids. I want to keep that plumbing as short and simple as possible, so I am thinking about making a bracket and mounting them under the nose of the intake lid. This location will make the plumbing relatively short and keep the solenoids relatively hidden. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/15/GTOV3-644.md.jpg Andrew |
Today I got some PTFE hose and -4AN fittings and made the flex line for the turbo oil feed.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-645.md.jpg I gave it a nice, soft S-shape to keep it tucked away. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-646.md.jpg Vic made a little bracket to hold the boost solenoids just under the intake lid snout. The mounting points for the bracket have slots, so the bolts just need to be loosened up to put it on or remove it. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-647.md.jpg One of the big reasons for choosing this location and orientation is so that the two nipples face the general direction of the wastegate and turbo. One of the lines needs to go to the top of the wastage dome and the other needs to go to the turbo compressor discharge. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-648.md.jpg Here is the view from the other side. I am going to have my friend Blake design and print a cover for the solenoids. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-649.md.jpg Since the wastegate is not super accessible and is surrounded by hot parts, I decided to plumb everything going to it using NiCopp 3/16" tubing. That way I don't have to worry about melting through the typical nylon hose and push-lock fittings. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-650.md.jpg This is the line from the compressor discharge to the bottom of the dome. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/16/GTOV3-651.md.jpg This TurboSmart wastegate has provisions for water cooling, so once the heater hose fittings are finalized, I will tap them and feet coolant to the dome of the wastegate. Andrew |
Very well thought out.
|
I try to do a little something everyday to keep making progress. We added a bung for the oxygen sensor. I wanted it easily accessible, but also not super visible.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/19/GTOV3-652.md.jpg We also added a bung in the charge pipe and I added a small tube to feed boost pressure to the feed side of the boost solenoids. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/19/GTOV3-653.md.jpg It was also time to think about where the fill tank for the A2W intercooler might go. I am thinking about this location on the firewall. I added a 45 degree fitting to the intercooler just to see how the hoses might be routed. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/19/GTOV3-654.md.jpg The tank looks like it is close to the downpipe, but there is actually quite a bit of space. The tank also needs to have a fill bung aded to the top of the right side and an outlet on the left side. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/19/GTOV3-655.md.jpg This is just an overall shot of the engine compartment as it sits now. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/19/GTOV3-656.md.jpg Baby steps... Andrew |
Things get busy in a hurry with a turbo(s). You've done a great job keeping it clean and compact.
|
Quote:
Andrew...you're the man!! |
With this being an auto now, will you have paddle shifters or are you focusing more on drag racing with the car?
Glad you're chipping away at it. A little everyday adds up quickly. |
Quote:
Quote:
The focus of the car is to have a reliable 10 second street car, that also handles fairly well. Andrew |
Since I am replacing all of the more visible fasteners on the engine with ARP stainless bolts, I wanted to replace the studs that Holley includes with the Low-Ram intake manifold. I carefully measured the needed length and it looked like ARP already had an intake bolt kit in that length (55mm UHL). Long story short, the ARP bolts didn't have the needed thread length to fully engage into the heads. Vic machined the shank of the bolts so they would torque down against the intake manifold.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-658.md.jpg I also finished the last bit of NiCopp plumbing for the boost control systems. There is a tube from the turbo compressor to the bottom of the wastegate. There is another tube from the compressor to the fill side of the boost solenoids. Finally, there is a line from the boost solenoids to the top of the wastegate. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-659.md.jpg For the intercooler water hoses, I am using the Earl's Super Stock hose and swivel fittings. I have never used these before, but they work awesome. The ferrule spins over the hose to give the hose end a finished look. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-660.md.jpg I used dish soap as a lubricant. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-661.md.jpg Little dab here... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-662.md.jpg Little dab there...and... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-663.md.jpg Viola!!!....oh, and Vic had already welded the fittings to the tank and mounted it with rivnuts. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-664.md.jpg We also added an EGT probe just before the turbine housing. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/20/GTOV3-665.md.jpg Andrew |
This morning I received the 1/2" hub centric wheel spacers that I ordered for the rear.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-666.md.jpg The fit was spot on. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-667.md.jpg I added this spacer to center the tire in the wheel wells. There is about 1.5" from the tire to the frame on the inside and about 1" on the outside. Also, both sides looked the same, which means the axle is well centered in the chassis and the body is well placed on the frame. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-668.md.jpg The Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires look amazing! The rear end is in full droop in this picture. Ride height is still to be determined. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-669.md.jpg After the fun stuff, it was down to a rather tedious project. These are some banjo -AN adapters for the transmission cooler lines, compared to the stock adapters on the right. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-670.md.jpg See that hole at the top? https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-671.md.jpg That one...That is where the longer fitting has to go, and there isn't enough room in the transmission tunnel to take the fitting out. So I had to remove the transmission crossmember and lower the trans in order to install these. This picture is with the transmission at full droop. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-672.md.jpg Here they are installed with the transmission back in place. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-673.md.jpg Then I got to looking at the intercooler and grabbed a gray scuff pad and started to rub. I really like the brushed look for the intercooler, so I will use the gray scuff pad over all of it and leave it a natural brushed finish (the rest is bead blasted for now). https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-674.md.jpg A big "Thank you" to one of my customers, who graciously engraved my logo into the intake manifold plate. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-675.md.jpg She is starting to look like something! https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/21/GTOV3-676.md.jpg Andrew |
Yeah it is!! :thumbsup:
|
Sounds like you've got a great recipe going for your goals, Andrew.
|
Quote:
Andrew |
Everything's looking so damn good Drew.
|
So good to see this 70 GTO evolve over the years. Fantastic.
|
Quote:
Quote:
Andrew |
This morning I received this 4 cavity Deutsch bulkhead connector from Prowireusa. They are one of my Go-to vendors for wiring products.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-677.md.jpg The idea behind getting this connector is that I would be able to wire the boost control solenoids to this connector and have a neat way of connecting them to the rest of the engine harness. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-678.md.jpg My friend Blake designed this little cover for the boost solenoids and it will hold the bulkhead connector in place and also give the solenoids a much cleaner look. He is also going to 3D print the cover. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-679.md.jpg Vic also added an elbow to the end of the downpipe with a v-band. The rest of the exhaust system will be built from here back. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-680.md.jpg This is a terrible picture, but I was just trying to show that the downpipe doesn't hang very low. In fact, the crossover pipe from the driver's exhaust manifold is the lowest point under the car. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-681.md.jpg Vic also made some adjustments to the short pipe that goes from the wastegate into the downpipe. It was about 3/32" too short which made it difficult to install the v-band. Vic cut that pipe, sleeved it, and welded it all back together. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-682.md.jpg You can better see the sleeve here. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-683.md.jpg He also added a small tab to keep the downpipe more stable. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/23/GTOV3-684.md.jpg Tomorrow is a big day and I can't wait to share what we have planned. Andrew |
I love this country. Yesterday I made a call to a local company and this morning a guy named Matthew showed up with a big computer.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-685.md.jpg and a 3D scanner... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-686.md.jpg and a bag of cocaine...(just kidding...baby powder) The baby powder was used extensively to knock the shine off the finish. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-687.md.jpg Then he proceeded to start scanning the bottom and the top of the hood. The purpose was to crate an accurate model that can the be used to design various options for the hole in the hood. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-689.md.jpg This is at the start of the process and it took about 4 hours to do the whole hood. In a few days I should have a cleaned up 3D model of the hood. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-690.md.jpg While Matthew was doing the scanning, I decided to install the new automatic brake pedal. Before installing it, I took some measurements to check the pedal ratio with the existing holes. The top (manual brakes) hole gives about a 6.5:1 pedal ratio. The bottom hole (stock power brakes) gives about a 3.5:1 pedal ratio. The various information that I could find about the iBooster said that the Tesla pedal ratio is 4:1. So we added an extra hole just above the stock lower hole, which resulted in about a 4.25:1 pedal ratio. This was about as close as we could come given the proximity to the lower hole. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-692.md.jpg This change resulted in a much more favorable angle for the pushrod. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/24/GTOV3-693.md.jpg Andrew |
Progress is being made. Yesterday I sent off the up-pipe and the downpipe to HeaderShield to have them wrapped. Today I showed up at Vic's and saw that he had installed the firewall shield that we had been discussing. We will probably take the intake off and go all the way across as much as we can with it.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/26/GTOV3-694.md.jpg I also pulled the drive's side seat to start mocking up the shifter. What you don't see is that under the carpet I had removed the shifter hump that was installed 20 years ago to make room for the Richmond 6 speed shifter. With that hump gone (it was bolted in) the console that I plan to use actually sort of fits. I ordered a partial left side front floor patch panel that includes part of the transmission tunnel. We are going to use that to close off the hole and have the shape of the floor be how it was with an auto trans. Then the 70 Chevelle console that I got should fit a lot better. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/26/GTOV3-695.md.jpg In order to do the power steering plumbing, this little nipple for the fluid return had to be cut off because it was pointing right at the steering box. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/26/GTOV3-696.md.jpg The hole is quite small, so we are going to install a 1/8" NPT to AN-6 fitting there. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/26/GTOV3-697.md.jpg Andrew |
A quick trip to Star Performance produced the 1/8" NPT to AN-6 Male fitting, and the power steering return is now sorted.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-698.md.jpg The next project to tackle was this hole in the side of the transmission tunnel. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-699.md.jpg The hole used to have a cover that had a shifter hump in it to clear the shifter and linkage for the Richmond 6 speed that used to be in the car. With that transmission gone and the 4L80e in its place, a new cover needed to be made. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-700.md.jpg Here you can see how close the transmission is to the trans tunnel. My body bushings are 20 years old. They are not cracked, but I am sure they have settled some, which is contributing to the lack of clearance. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-701.md.jpg A quick Google search showed that partial floor pan patch panels were readily available. I called The Parts Place and they had one in stock and had it at my door in two days. You can see that part of the panel includes the needed piece to start making a new cover for the tunnel. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-702.md.jpg I trimmed it big to start... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-703.md.jpg Then trimmed it to the final shape... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-704.md.jpg and started to drill the necessary mounting holes. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/01/29/GTOV3-705.md.jpg Turned out pretty good in the end, without having to do any custom metal shaping, which I don't have the skills to do anyway.... Andrew |
I took my intake to Hot Rod Express, where they welded the engraved manifold cover plate to the Holley intake lid.
https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-706.md.jpg Today was the day that I wanted to get the heat exchanger mounted and start thinking about running the plumbing (so much plumbing in this car!!!) the A2W intercooler system. When I originally asked Vic to mount the heat exchanger to the radiator, I really had no idea how things would be plumbed. I had him mount the heat exchanger with the inlet and outlet (dual pass) on the driver's side. Clearly this is not going to work. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-707.md.jpg With the intercooler, fill tank, and circulation pump in place, it was clear that the best option would be to have the input and outlet on the passenger side. Before digging into that further I wanted to make sure that the circulation pump fittings would be oriented in the correct direction. I emailed Tobias at Tecomotive and he quickly responded that the pump inlet and outlet cover can be clocked in any of the 4 positions relative to the pump body. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-708.md.jpg I unscrewed the top and it sure doesn't look very fancy in here, but this pump is supposed to move A LOT of water. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-709.md.jpg Not much to see here.... https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-710.md.jpg I positioned the pump body in such a way that the connector was close to the fan shroud so that the wires for the pump could be routed along the bottom of the shroud. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-711.md.jpg I clocked the top so the outlet would face the passenger side (the top is the inlet). https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-712.md.jpg I also pulled both grill inserts so it would be easier to work in front of the radiator. As I was going along, I always had to make sure that I could get to everything without having to pull the grills, because once the radiator is installed, there is no way to access the grill hardware. Here you can see that the heat exchanger was flipped (the drain is now at the top and can't be used). We couldn't rotate the heat exchanger because that would have required a complete reworking of the mounts and I did not want to do all that. I can live without a drain. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-713.md.jpg There is a lot more room on the passenger side for plumbing because the radiator core is slightly offset to the driver's side (note the larger tank on the passenger side). https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-714.md.jpg With that orientation locked in, we moved to the bench where some minor fiddling had to be done to make the mounts work. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-715.md.jpg Both the inlet and outlet hoses fit pretty well using 90 degree fittings. With the fans removed and the radiator top tilted back, there is enough room to access these fittings from the top. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-716.md.jpg I also trimmed the core support slightly so that the hoses can pass in front of the radiator. You can also see the Low Doller Motorsports temperature/pressure combo sensor in the cooling system. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/01/GTOV3-717.md.jpg I still have to finalize the exact hose routing, but this is pretty good progress. Andrew |
Thanks, I'll be using your experience when picking out my A2W pump. :thumbsup:
|
Quote:
|
Because that would have made a bigger hole. Vic only took off what was necessary.
|
I had mocked up the shifter a while back and it turned out that the 4 foot cable that was included with the Lokar shifter was not going to be long enough. So I ordered a 6 foot cable (which honestly could be 7 feet) from Summit and after it was defrosted in the Texas warehouse, I received it yesterday.
So it was time to put the big boy pants on and poke some holes to mount the shifter. I positioned it in such a way that with the shifter in Drive, I could, very naturally, put my hand on the shift level and slide it to the right and use the forward and backwards tap shift feature. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/03/GTOV3-718.md.jpg I drilled the first hole and shockingly it lined up perfectly where I intended it to go. I mounted the shifter and marked the other hole. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/03/GTOV3-719.md.jpg I used nut-serts (riv-nuts) inside the hole and temporarily mounted the shifter. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/03/GTOV3-720.md.jpg I did a little more measuring and drilled a hole in the floor for the shifter cable. ICT Billet posted a teaser on their Instagram about their new shift cable pass-through and I have been bugging them about it for weeks. I am hoping it will be available soon so I can use it to seal the hole. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/03/GTOV3-721.md.jpg For the front of the shifter, Vic whipped up a simple bracket and we (yes, I welded one side and he the other...thanks you...) welded it to the floor. https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/03/GTOV3-722.md.jpg https://j.hmjimg.com/2023/02/03/GTOV3-723.md.jpg The shifter feels pretty good, but there are some minor adjustments that need to be made still. Andrew |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:53 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net