|
Brake Lines
I just completed the front and rear brake line and master cylinder. I went to our local O'Reilly Auto Parts and used their free double flaring tool. I needed three reducers from the Baer Brakes to the Ford lines (2 front, 1 rear).
This is the rear: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270001.jpg I also needed two straight connectors one for the rear and one for passenger side. Passenger side: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270003.jpg I spent a lot of time bending the factory lines to make a neat installation. The 3/16" tube clamps and an #8 x 1/2" self tapping screw made it easier. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270004.jpg The tee and the rear adjustable proportioning valve came from UP. Things are starting to get tight for tools. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270005.jpg System completed! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270006.jpg |
Fuel Line From The Fuel Cell to the Front
I used Russell Black AN 8 supply line and Russell Black AN 6 return line. Two 45's coming out of the tank:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270009.jpg You can barely see the Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter that I added with 2 90's: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270011.jpg Then I run all the lines and battery cable to the front: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270012.jpg I used a lot of clamps to keep things straight and neat. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270015.jpg Routed them through the transmission mounting area. They will get a rubber insulator and a heat shield. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P9270017.jpg Ended up at the A/C area for the fuel lines. The battery cable of course went through the passenger shock tower hole to the starter relay. |
Electrical Re-Routed
I Changed the electrical to come out the firewall underneath the fender. I routed all engine bay wiring there also. Here is the finished part.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA010002.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA010005.jpg |
Electrical Relays
I designed a relay panel to be hidden under the old battery box. 6 relays - PIAA driving lights, Optional (Stereo Amp), Fuel Pump, High Beams, Low beams, Fog Lamps (PIAA).
Just a note on wiring, I am using the parking/running lights to power the low beams. That way they are on all the time when the switch is pulled. The original mustang wiring turns off the low beams when the highs are on. I will use the low beam circuit to power the fog lamp circuit, and interrupt it with a switch (probably out of the dimmer switch). You usually never use the fog lamps with the high beams on. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA010001.jpg |
Beautiful project, need more pics:wow:
|
Quote:
Thanks! I will get it caught up to current within a day or two. But here you go!!! |
More Wiring!
Well I got a surprise. The parking lights do NOT stay on when switch is pulled out to the second position. So... I now have low beams ALL the time the car is started. I don't mind. But all the lights up front and in back work. Those sequential rear turn signals are trick!!
I finished the front wiring. That box below the solenoid is a 50 amp fuse for the mustang main harness. I put wire loom from the starter solenoid... http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA020010.jpg down through the passenger fender area where the relay panel is (the relay panel will get a splash shield) ... http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...PA020002-1.jpg down under the radiator area (I even wired it for the electric fan underneath in the middle)... http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA020003.jpg up to the driver side front (BTW, THAT fan is coming off for good, don't need it anymore)... http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA020005.jpg and under the driver side fender. That set of wires hanging down will get wire loom and then routed inside at that point. Some get hooked up to the coil that mounts on the inside of the shock tower, and the others go to the engine. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA020006.jpg |
More Wiring?
Finishing up the wiring (except for the gauges and center console), I checked all the relays and circuits. Horn works, high beams, low beams, fog lights, A/C works (blower 3 speeds and electrical to the switch on the pressure side of the cooler for the compressor clutch), back up lights (with the trans circuit bypassed), starter solenoid (with the neutral switch bypassed), all blinker, interior lights, dome, trunk light (it is always hot, I need a switch and light), fuel pump, and optional relay to stereo amp!
I started work on the gauge cluster. I installed the windshield wiper switch (no new replacement, had to use the old one) http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA040004.jpg and I will post a schematic of the new Shelby gauge cluster wiring that has to be cut off and adapted to the new Painless harness tomorrow (circuit, Shelby color, painless color). Here is a start http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA040001.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA040005.jpg And I installed the oil cooler. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA040007.jpg |
Here is the wiring schematic for using the Shelby gauges from Unique Performance and splicing it to an original or Painless wiring harness. Painless uses the same colors as the original Mustang harness.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...gSchematic.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070008.jpg |
I installed the gas cap, fuel filler tube, 1/2' (AN-8 ) breather line, and wired the fuel pump, sending unit and the optional relay wire to the amp (not installed yet).
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070017.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070016.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070015.jpg |
Rear Seat
I cut the upper back part to the rear seat in half and removed 2" because of the mini tub.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070019.jpg |
Throttle Assembly
I mounted the gas pedal and Locar throttle cable. I had to make a "Z" bracket to get the gas pedal off the floor for clearance.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070005.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070011.jpg |
I finished all the auxiliary wiring that I could. Like wiring the trans tunnel, but from the inside so that there are no wires in the engine compartment.
The center console will cover up any deformities in the carpet, and I cut the hole way forward. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070012.jpg |
All this work allowed me to start the dash. Everything needs to be installed in this order.
I installed the dash pad from dashesdirect.com and it is very high quality . Fit is excellent, I only had to cut two little pieces off the upper ends (by the windshield) with a pair of scissors to make it fit correctly. This piece makes the inside look better than original! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070007.jpg And the Shelby cluster. Everything works! I checked every circuit that I could. And I mean every circuit! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070008.jpg Then the A/C controls. After that the kick panels so I could install the A/C vents, run all the air tubes (what a PITA ), and cleaned up the wiring a little: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070010.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA070006.jpg |
I installed the Hydraulic Clutch Master today. But I had to make some modifications to the input shaft and the stock mustang adjustable brake push rod. The stock Mustang push rod adjuster is a bigger diameter/thread than the input shaft coming out of the master cylinder. And the input shaft is too long.
So, in the picture you can see how much I had to cut out of the Clutch master input shaft. How did I know how much to cut off? Fit, measure and mark. And I had to weld on a nut to the end of stock mustang push rod. And putting on that fluid reservoir was a PITA. The O'ring did not want to stay in the groove. I had to heat the plastic resevoir up with a heat gun, and work it many times to get it on without the O'ring slipping out of place. Just one more thing that takes time and patients. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA080002.jpg Now everything fits. BTW, that nut you see is a lock nut. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA080004.jpg |
I started fitting the rear seat. If you tubbed the rear end, you must cut the rear seat. The best way to preserve the hinge mounts and end of the first fold is to cut it in the middle. Yeah, that's right. Two cuts. And then weld it together. My fenders measured only 39" clearance and the panel was 41". It now fits pretty good.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA080005.jpg And I had to remove the floor mounting brackets and re-weld them in by 1" each side. Edit: I wish that I would have cut the panel off to one side or the other so the mounting holes in the new chrome pieces would line up. But I can alway just drill new mounting holes in the old metal for the one side of the chrome. |
Vent Slides
Sanded off many years of paint and and re-furbished the rear vent boxes. Put on new vent slides.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA080001.jpg Edit: These slides are on backwards. I removed them and put them on correct. |
Trans Crossmember
I mounted the new transmission crossover. Bolted it in and had to drill out to 1/2" for the new grade 8 bolts to help handle the horsepower. A piece will be welded in place that mounts up to the trans when I get the engine/transmission in place.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA110002.jpg |
I insulated the fuel lines and battery cable with a radiator hose cut in half and stuck it through the cross brace to eliminate any chafing.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA110001.jpg I then installed the heat shields that I fabricated to help reduce the heat from the headers. This should help keep the fuel cooler! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA110005.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA110006.jpg I even bolted down the A/C drain line so it would not touch and melt to the header. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA110008.jpg |
I purchased a 1 5/8" holes saw to cut the holes for the new interior lamps. Let me tell you, it was not an easy task installing them. I used a rat tail file to remove all the extra plastic, crimped the new light holder tabs down, and still had a difficult time installing them. I think that 1 3/4" would have been too big a hole. I also used a die grinder to cut out the hole for the roll bar.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...PA110016-1.jpg |
I put the carpet on the interior wheel wells. And then I cut the interior rear quarter panels to allow for the tubbed rear end. Took my time and this is what I came up with. Note how I cut it forward and then back at the mounting place for the rear seat. BTW, these panels are not bolted in yet. And I am not pleased with the glossy paint I used on the interior panels. I am still searching for the correct light reflectivity!
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA160015.jpg |
427FE Motor Mounts
Bad picture, but I mounted the FE motor mounts. Not sure if it is correct because the motor mounts did not bolt in without a lot of adjustments. The frame holes did not align. I had to grind down the outer side of the mounts, probably because I welded in the lower shock tower bracing. And they only came with 4 bolts! I will put in the additional 2 bolts.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA160021.jpg |
|
Played a little with the back seats. I am going to have the upper seat reduced by 2" in width. I could probably get away with not doing anything, but I am going to have the seats re-upholstered with the same pattern as the Shelby seats (not the logo).
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA190001.jpg |
Getting the car ready to go to the body shop. All the last little things that take a lot of time!
Like the factory splash shield for the new relay cluster underneath the passenger side front fender. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA220011.jpg And the oil cooler lines from underneath the the driver side fender http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA220016.jpg The fuel pressure & return line bracket http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA220015.jpg The rear seat belt brackets welded in http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA220010.jpg and the front end strut rod washers that started to rust that needed paint http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA220003.jpg |
Well, I finished up the oil cooler lines
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA260002.jpg Got the fittings and bracket for the fuel system installed http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA260001.jpg And got the security system installed (what no picture?) Trick baby, trick!!! I have been debating as to where to pull in the fresh air for the Supercharger. UP pulls it from the driver side, but I have tried to make room to pull it from the passenger side. Look at all that room! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA260004.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/PA260006.jpg |
Well, what do you guys think?
Project: Snake Venom http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...censePlate.jpg |
This is kind of what color I am thinking about going with. Black with a dark charcoal center stripe and a slight gold tint in the pin stripe. What do you guys think?
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...06/MyColor.jpg |
Got the 11" rears and 8" fronts mounted.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P1210002.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/P1210001.jpg |
Well, I'm back after several months at work. I brought all the glass out of the garage, washed it down, cleaned it real good to see If I am going to be able to use it. It is all Carlite - Sun X tint, looks to be original with date code and line going down the back glass. Not that it really matters to me.
The back glass is in excellent shape. The drivers door has a few small scratches, not deep, but I bet it will be more visible at night in the lights. I am still debating whether or not to replace the door glass, but I bet I will not be able to get the same tint! I have all the triangle rubber pieces and channel felt for the vent wings. New latch handles, also. |
I took the rear seat to an upholstery place today. They are going to trim 2" out of the flip down seat frame, and 1" out of the rear part of the bottom seat. They will replace everything except the springs and frame. Matching the Super Snake seat leather is going to be expensive. $600 ouch!!!
But I left him one of the Super Snake seats. He promised that it would match perfectly, except for the stitched logo. |
I started on the center console. I installed the electric window switched from Watson Street Works:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...terConsole.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...erConsole2.jpg I installed the rear courtesy light and power outlet. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...erConsole1.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...erConsole5.jpg |
NAPA Pro Stone Guard says it will "Match OEM Panel Texture". Looks very close. But you have to be about 24"-36" away from the panel when applying it.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...lPaiinting.jpg Since the texture is white, I used a semi flat BBQ paint that looks very close to the normal color of stock panels! Not nearly as shiny as the other "Hammered" paint I was trying. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...Paiinting4.jpg I am very satisfied with the results. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...Paiinting3.jpg |
Wow, if I had known how much time would be spent on narrowing the rear seat by 2" (cutting, re-welding), cutting all the trim pieces, etc., I might have decided on just a rear tray.
But it is starting to come together. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...perHinged2.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...perHinged1.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...pperHinged.jpg |
I installed the Nitrous Switch and Speak
ers. I dont think speakers over 5 1/2" would fit in the console. I used a 2 way Infiniti Kappa. I just need the gauges, and then to wire it all up. http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ewSpeakers.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...wSpeakers2.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...wSpeakers3.jpg |
Got the transmission out for test fitting. I bolted on the Shelby shifter, Lakewood Bell housing and transmission mount.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ellhousing.jpg The hydraulic throwout bearing: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...llhousing8.jpg Built a bracket for the hoses from the the hydraulic throwout bearing: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...llhousing9.jpg And hoses to the clutch master cyllinder: http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...lhousing10.jpg Not sure, but I believe this rubber piece (on the table) is sent with the Trans just to keep out foreign objects. But that rear seal looks odd! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...llhousing7.jpg |
Richard:
I really like the console your making. Please show a lot of pictures as your interior goes together. It looks like it will be killer. Thanks, Ty |
Quote:
Ty, thanks man. I have done a lot of work on the console and more pictures are yet to come. |
I spent another 6 hours on finishing the console. I decided to put an electrical junction at the front of the console, use quick disconnect plugs for the speakers, power windows, and all electrical connections to ease the installation process.
There are quite a few wires under there!!! http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...leFinshed1.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eFinshed11.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eFinshed13.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...leFinished.jpg http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eFinshed12.jpg |
Found this little jem for a steal at Shipdog. 3 1/2" screen, DVD, HDD, Navigation, 40 meg HD (16 for nav, 24 for music-pictures etc), CD, Mpeg1, Mpeg2,
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...CKD-NX5000.jpg |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:02 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net