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Quote:

Originally Posted by Gscherer78ta (Post 646034)

John- what did you feel different once you did those mods? Did that mod improve corner entry, exit?

I believe the track bar helps keep the axle located in the center, although, I guess can't see where it would impede the articulation. With the track bar holding the axle in the center it would seem that the back would have more precision in following the front... Just a guess on my part

I haven't had my car back on track since I did the mod so I can't comment on a difference. I've sold off all the old suspension from my car, including the springs I'd put the front spherical bushings in so it'll be really hard to tell what things had effects on any differences. I'll be using higher spring rates to go along with a lot of aerodynamic changes that will hopefully increase down force so it'll be difficult to tell whether raising the front spring eye or stiffer springs caused changes in the car. I'll have a lot of tuning to do once back on track I'm sure! I got waaaaay too deep in my project.

Sorry, Greg. When you said track bar my brain thought traction bars like Cal-tracs. A panhard rod or watts link will help. You could also go with thicker shackles like I have from Custom Works to help keep lateral movement to a minimum. His pieces are towards the bottom of this page.

http://customworksperformance.net/suspension.html

Trey, do you have the Delrin frame bushings in your car?

Yes. I haven't begun to push my car hard enough to know if they help. I know Keith/Custom Works has a video on his site showing before and after he upgraded the shackles. However, he also did other changes at the same time. Those changes shouldn't have affected the lateral movement of the rear though.

Can't tell you about NHV transmission through the Delrin. The car has no interior so it's loud. I don't feel anything hash when I hit bumps. I'm running 200 lb springs in the back

Haven't visited this thread (or forum) in a long time! Looking damn good! Our build styles are almost identical... (BTW I run a SPEC 3+ with my LT1 T56 and love love love it.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix (Post 625033)

The last thing I did was to dearch the rear springs. I just couldn't stand how high it sat in the rear. I've brought the rear down about 1 inch and it looks so much better to me. Ground clearance is still great.
http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps7fjokg6g.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix (Post 610109)

Here's the collectors sitting up front and a view from the front. They are just under 4 inches off the ground, no lower than the oil pan, and above the front cross member still.

The mufflers are 5 inches off the ground now. I plan to lower the car in the rear some more. I should have the mufflers between 3.5 and 4 inches off the ground when done. I really hope that's plenty of clearance for me to get in and out of the driveway easily. Right now, it's a breeze getting in and out. I wish I had taken measurements before I cut the old system out, but I missed the reminder I had left myself. Oh well, I know it's more clearance. I just don't know how much.

I am thoroughly impressed. By your ride height and your bravery to go that low!

I got some info on PT that my front air dam should be lower for aerodynamic purposes, so I took some measurements and they are a fair amount higher than I realized. So I can go lower, but I wasn't expecting to see yours THAT low. I've seen 4.5 - 5" as the general consensus as far as a practical ground clearance number.

I've got my exhaust tucked up nicely too, so I'm not as worried about that stuff as I am the front crossmember. You got that slammed!

Thanks Woody. I appreciate the kid words. I need to take some more measurements now that it's been a while since I did all the work. Things settle and I'm not sure where I'm at now with ground clearance. I don't scrape or bottom out on anything so I'm good in that respect. Is it optimal for handling? I have no clue. I'm not at the stage where I can judge that. With the driving I have done, it ride and handles fine.

I'll look into that clutch too. I'll be needing to make that decision soon.

Looking for opinions on how I should paint my engine since I'll be getting it built soon.

Here's what it looks like now

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...psv0ok9xnm.jpg

With the shaker removed but the manifolds in place

http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/r...psffc812d8.jpg

I'm honestly not trying to build anything to show off. I just want it to be clean and hold up over time. I have a new billet throttle body that will go on the engine that's natural currently. I'm half way considering powder coating the intake black along with the block and leaving the ribs natural aluminum. How does that sound?

Valve covers will remain unless I can find some C4 units. Those are black composite.

What to do with the water pump? Silver or gray paint? Black?

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks

EDIT: I think I need to see about removing the oil fill extension. Looks out of place being that tall.

Pretty Sweet! I have a soft spot for the later 2nd Gens.

Thanks John! I appreciate the kind words.

Trey,
Just my personal opinion but I like contrast, black and grey, or black and silver sound good.

On my 68 the block is going to be gunmetal with black pulleys and the engine bay will be a black satin. I wish I would have painted the intake.

I spend too much time on google images.

Allot of nice engine bays on here too.

You are making allot of progress!

Joe