Another version of BB?! Sounds good to me. Version one as KILLER!:thumbsup:
I can only imagine how sick this one will turn out.

No Odessa and Midland are not the sweet spot just stay on 10 east. bypass the dust and rain and head to the hills county you will love the view.The ride is good also:yes: :yes: :yes:

I figured that traffic was gonna be heavy.. Next time you can pay us a visit..


Looking forward to hanging out with you Greg!

Why don't you stop by the shop & pick up BB & take it to TX in your new totohome? I will fly to in! :lol:

Kendall I have driven twice from Brownsville TX(hometown) to Oxnard CA... 27 hours straight.. Let's just say I am not for long distance driving.. But this trip will be worth it!

Yikes!! I was half tempted to earn my RatPack stripes on this trip and drive the car out but you might just have put me off with this single post Greg :wow:

Gregg

Come on Gregg! No guts no glory buddy! :lol:


Truthfully though -- it was a trip I'll never forget... I was driving from Seattle via LA - to Mississippi (to see a fellow ham radio buddy) - and then on to my new job in NYC....but that TEXAS dust storm just about did me in!

Gregg just on it the speed limit is I think it 80 mph after Le Paso let it hang out.:unibrow: :unibrow: :unibrow:

We got some "DAMM" good brakes now! Sorry for the crappy videos.. but my buddy shot them on his phone...

We were bedding in the race pads.. I turned the rotors blue from getting them hot..

I figured I would share some brake components used on the 68 Camaro..

Front Brake kit: Wilwood C6 Corvette road race brake kit, 14.00 diameter rotor with floating hat/rotor x 1.25 thk rotor, 15H pads with W6A calipers with thermlock pistons, 1.62/1.12/1/12 pistons

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1891.jpg

Rear Brake kit: rear kit was put together from a list of components I wanted to use, 12.88 diameter rotor x .810 thk rotor( wanted to keep rotational weight down), BSL caliper with 1.12 pistons, 15E pads,.. The goal for the use of these parts was to keep piston knock back down to a minimal & keep rotational weight down.. Plus you don’t need a lot of rear brake.. We were not trying to fill up the wheel with brakes.. wanted function & reduced weight.. Waiting for the rear floating hat combo from Wilwood.. That will also help with piston knock back.. There are a few other things I also did that I will disclose later when I know it works

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1893.jpg

The Master cylinder is a 7/8 bore.. Worked out great.. Got about 3/8 “ travel for brakes to start stopping the car… ½ “ travel & it is nosing down the front of the car..

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1906.jpg

cool stuff I want to see in person.:hail: :hail: :hail:

Yenko version of BB!
 

I had Ben do this for me to see how a Yenko theme 68 Camaro of BB would look like! I really like the way Ben carried over the hump of the Stinger too the header panel!

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...ennkofront.jpg

That is cool:yes: Are the wheels Pontiac type are you doing aftermarket wheels.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Last week we tore down the front sheetmetal on the 68... We had a few issues from the first drive.. Tires were rubbing on the inner fender wells.. We had been playing around with it to see if we could keep them from rubbing.. At Delmar when David was Autocrossing it I could see smoke coming from the front tire rub.. At that point I knew we were going to take off the wells & modify them.. plus I had a leak on the oil thermostat.. So I am re-locating it so that I have acess & can view it @ anytime..

It would have been nice to just run a new set of inner fender wells from Anvil but I could not do it because of fender mount to inner fender well was totally different.. So we modified them for tire clearance.. but @ the same time wanted to remove some weight.. I called Brett Campbell from Fab53 to see if he could do a set for me in fiberglass.. Brett does some real nice fiberglass! Plus now I have the molds to do another set for BB II..

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1943.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...downsize-2.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/downsize.jpg

The fiberglass inners look great so far.
What exactly was the issue with the Anvil inners? I was wondering if I should buy some or make a glass pair...

No issues with Anvil inners.. Remember that I stretched the front fenders on this car.. so we had to custom build the outer portion of the inner to match to the fender stretch..

Great work as usual Chris. Got a question for you........Do you think Bret could use the stretched front fenders as a mold and build fiberglasss front fenders?

Gaetano- If Brett would have had the time.. we would have tried to get the front fenders & lower valance done.. Brett had some work going on right now.. I got him to squeeze this job in for me.. but we will have front fender in glass on phase II of this car... Right now we just want to get it done & ready to attend some events..

I like your thinking. :D

I see now, I just was a little unclear as to why they didn't work for you.
Thanks for clearing that up.

I kinda like it without the front end on! Looks killer Chris!:thumbsup:

Can't wait to see it in person great job!!!!!!!:yes: :yes:

Steve- I think it would be faster & would have not to modified no inner wells!:D

Be seeing you soon Kendall! Looking forward to eating alot of my favorite foods from home!

I just got back from a visit to JCG tonight. Dropped of the new fiberglass inner fenders. They weigh only 3.5 lbs each as opposed to the +-13 to 15 lb original metal ones. That's a front end weight savings of +-20 lbs. Wow. I'm very excited that Chris asked me to make the light weight inner fenders for Blu Balz.

So, if you don't mind I will add a few pictures of them.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2411.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_2413.jpg

Cris thanks again for giving Fab53.com a chance to work on your project.

Those look nice.

At 3.5 lbs that kind of makes a CF pair look like overkill.
Other than looks (which can be accomplished with just a cosmetic layer).

Come to think of it, there is enough CF in this engine bay to maybe justify a cosmetic layer on these as well. I suppose in reality you could save another 5 lbs with vacuum bagged full zoot set, but now I'm getting carried away.

Those look great, Brett!!

Nice!! Chris whats the car weigh?

I've been away from the forum since after Sema, I noticed a mention of autocross. How did the car do? was it a competition?

Matt

Brett- Thanks Again for taking the job on .. on such sort notice.. I very happy with the outcome of the new inner wells.. Looking forward to doing some more work together..


[QUOTE=67zo6Camaro;389423]I just got back from a visit to JCG tonight. Dropped of the new fiberglass inner fenders. They weigh only 3.5 lbs each as opposed to the +-13 to 15 lb original metal ones. That's a front end weight savings of +-20 lbs. Wow. I'm very excited that Chris asked me to make the light weight inner fenders for Blu Balz.

If we would have had more time.. maybe we would have layered in some CF..

Matt- The car came in at 3650.. I was hoping to come in lighter.. But the car has a nice balance.. We will run it in this weight for this year & looking on what will be done on phase II.. If all goes well BB II should be lighter & faster so that we can leave this one alone.. BB II will maybe done 2013 in Feb.. Maybe!

The first time out on the Autocross still needed tuning.. so we could not push it hard.. In the next few weeks we will be putting thru real testing.. It was at the Delmar goodguys car show..

Speaking of, I missed your text from the other day somehow, I will text you that phone number at something other than a god aweful hour :thumbsup:


Those fenders are pretty hot!

Been working on wraping up the interior on the 68... Got the stereo system done.. got the correct fuel gage in.. finished the A/C system.. & got all the fire system on the car..

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1971.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1970.jpg

Got all the front sheet metal back on the car.. The new inner wells fit perfect! No modifications.. Thanks Brett @ Fab53! no more tire rub either..

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...n/IMG_1972.jpg

I just got back from having the car on the chassis dyno... The Mustang Dyno gave 495 RWHP.. I was told that is pretty good.. I wanted more! But I guess that is not bad for a Stock LS7 that was just blueprinted & cammed!

Mostly what ya got is dirty feet!

Look at the prints in that picture! Car will never be the same now.... :D

Very healthy engine Chris! Well done.

G.

Man that car is pretty :thumbsup: . Awesome interior, engine compartment, etc, etc..

Are you not running a passenger seat?

Also wondering why the car is so heavy. Your an easy 600 lbs heavier than me. I always thought the 67's and 68's were alot lighter than the '69's.

Casanova claims to be around 3600 also.

Yeah man...:thumbsup:

For whatever reason, the Mustang Dyno often reads 20-30 HP lower than Dynojet/Superflow. I've been in that car and it hauls balls, so you're probably at 600 at the crank. Not bad Cris! Can you post up a Torque curve?

Man that engine bay is very nice.

It has been tested and proven that the MUSTANG DYNO measures more accurately than a Dynojet... So if "lower" is a bad thing --- I'd say I'd rather have more accurate readings than just the garage bragging rights of a false higher number.

I won't thread jack with a dyno discussion -- and I didn't cut and paste all the resulting documentation - but this test is just one of many...

West Automotive Performance Engineering has developed a proprietary device that independently measures a vehicle's actual speed and acceleration. This device is similar in operation to a fifth wheel but doesn't use accelerometers that can be influenced by the vehicle's body tilt. Using the vehicle's speed, acceleration, and weight (mass) and the application of simple physics equations, the exact horsepower and torque can be calculated. The horsepower and torque measured by West Automotive Performance Engineering's dyno is actually the horsepower made-good, or the horsepower left over to accelerate the vehicle after all the aerodynamic and rolling-friction losses have been overcome. These losses were accounted for and included West Automotive Performance Engineering's dyno so that a comparison with a chassis dynamometer can be made. The Mustang dyno includes the aerodynamic load that it places on the drivetrain as part of its reported rear-wheel horsepower and torque. Stated another way, the Mustang dyno does not measure the horsepower made-good.
Graphs 7 and 10 show the horsepower and torque versus rpm in Second and Third gear, respectively, for the Dynojet dyno, the Mustang dyno, and from road testing with the dyno from West Automotive Performance Engineering. You can see that the horsepower and the torque, as measured on the road, are closer to the Mustang dyno measurements. Also from the acceleration tests you can see how the Mustang dyno loads the vehicle very closely to how it will be actually loaded on the road. Based on our test data, the Mustang dyno loaded our test vehicle and measured the rearwheel horsepower closer to what the vehicle experiences on the road.

Engine bay is neat and clean. Very well done.

Is that opinion or fact? j/k! :lol:

Good stuff Greg!

Not bad for a weak big block.

I was going to buy a dyno for my shed.... so did some thorough investigating. The definitive answer is = nobody really knows.

The right answer is -- dyno's are used for TUNING -- and if the numbers get bigger when you make a change - then you're headed in the right direction. That's how they should be used.

Having said that -- the numbers are always fun!

That's a fact.

Yeah she's a little dirty in there Cris. Come on. :lol:

How many and where are all your nozzles on the fire system?