Thanks.

Not right? Oh hell yes it is! :unibrow:

Next time I see him I'm slapping him around a little just for planting the seed. :lol:

Thank you Sir! :thumbsup:


Where am I at 5:30 this morning...............I'm crawling around under this frameless POS doing floor exercises...............:bang:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-v...vfpw4fk-XL.jpg

:drowninga:

Scott,
I find it easier to pull a chalk line front to back down both sides just below the pinch welds (If you are going to be a while, use tape). Along the whole length of the car, making sure they are parallel with one another. Then two in the opposite direction somewhere near the wheel mounting surfaces. Making sure to X them out to be sure they are square.

Once you have made this perfectly square box, and the car is solidly mounted and level, pinch welds in perfect line with your tape. All you need is 4 plumb bobs, a tape measure, digital level, and a patient wife or buddy to hold the other side of the tape.

You can accurately measure wheelbase (or altered wheelbase in so many cases), track squareness, camber, caster, pretty much anything you would need to know.

How many times have you been told this so far Sieg?


"Something seems off with X measurement, can you recheck it?"


:bang:


Thing is, he was right every time...something was wrong with MY measuring... :lol:

Isn't Magnus Walker that bada$$ 911 guru/tuner? If so, i DIG his work...

I know Scott knows what he is doing, I've just never been able to do any reliable measurements using centerline. Unless a car was set up for centerline measuring, like cup cars are, I find it extremely hard to get repeatable numbers. That might just be me.

:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

Simply stated..........I'm hunting and picking my way around the underside of the car getting familiar with it and try to figure out what is what. When both ends are disconnected and the center section is a crudely stamped piece of sheetmetal it's not easy to establish a reasonable baseline.

I attempted to establish center via the rear subframe locating holes and I'm now trying to establish outer lines to reference the hubs/wheel mounting surfaces. The centerline was to give a reference to 'square' for all other measurements.

I'm beginning to understand the value of having a full framed vehicle. If I had the equipment to create a digital horizontal and vertical halo around the car it would be somewhat simple.

That is why I stressed using the pinch welds, on a subframe car the pinch welds are the only true constant. The rest of the car (subframe, rear, etc., etc.) can be way off. If referencing suspension off of a subframe that is crooked in the car your wasting your time.

Its easy as falling off a log. Level the car on stands, 4 plumb bobs vise gripped to the pinch welds, mark floor with tape, making sure the tape is square, and measure away.

Come on Mate, get this measuring stuff all sorted, with lots of pictures as I have to start mine and I'm :confused18: :confused18: :confused18:

I'm getting there today buddy! All the references I have created are good to verify square once true square is established.

Those pinch welds on the rocker being the one source of true square exemplifies how crude these cars really are.

4 plumb bobs and 4 vice grips..........you're one rich sob. Harbor freight micro bar clamps are $.99.........3 more plumb bobs is an issue for those of use in the pro-tinkering class! :lol:

Magnus is a great guy, I've talked with him on multiple occasions at SEMA. He's a great example of don't judge a book by the cover.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-G...GQ8vCqZ-XL.jpg