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What you'll notice the most is all the new "wubba" in the suspension -- not your settings. It will feel like a new car up front. Not like a new car - just a new car compared to the old factory crap. It's good work and will be noticeable and you'll like it.

GregWeld

04-25-2015 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSLance (Post 603451)

I've been told grease really isn't that necessary on sway bar bushings anyway...kind of depends on the material of the bushing I guess.

I'm more worried about the sway bar end link bending under the bind created at full droop with the short spacer in it...

I like what you are going through with the testing though, keep up the good work.

It just needs enough to not squeak....especially when you go urethane.

Sieg	04-25-2015 09:28 PM

It's a driver! :excited:
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-q...q2FRRWV-XL.jpg

Stance is close with a full tank.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F...-FcwZDt6-L.jpg

With the toe set at a 1/16" in it drives exceptional. Turn-in and mid-corner correction response is so much better I feel like I cheated somebody. :unibrow:

57hemicuda

04-26-2015 07:06 AM

Awesome Scott, the first to leave the nest of the jack stand army. Has to be liberating, and it make feel far superior then, "you know" the rest of the army.

GregWeld

04-26-2015 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57hemicuda (Post 603632)

Awesome Scott, the first to leave the nest of the jack stand army. Has to be liberating, and it make feel far superior then, "you know" the rest of the army.

I think Scotty has figured out there are not little elves coming out at night to build your car while you sleep.... In other words.... You actually have to do something - or as I say in my little shop "PICK UP A TOOL!". LOL

Sieg	04-26-2015 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57hemicuda (Post 603632)

Awesome Scott, the first to leave the nest of the jack stand army. Has to be liberating, and it make feel far superior then, "you know" the rest of the army.

Thanks RS.

Preferred use of jack stands:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D...DTnGMTj-XL.jpg

GregWeld

04-26-2015 07:27 AM

YaBut <a type of fish> Did ya use the new toe boards??

Sieg	04-26-2015 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 603633)

Thus why I'm under the car again this morning before 7 a.m. correcting steering wheel alignment. :rules:

DG's probably still drooling on his pillow, RD's a least shoveling stalls or something of similar productivity, and PK's probably on a ladder washing his truck. :D

Sieg	04-26-2015 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld (Post 603635)

YaBut <a type of fish> Did ya use the new toe boards??

Worked like champs. 1/16" (.0625") toe in vs the previous settings were .04" L and .05" R.

Car doesn't seem to dart around as much but it could be due to the new UCA/LCA bushings.

Sieg	04-26-2015 09:17 AM

Steering wheel alignment was off after the new parts installation. The range of adjustment (lack of) in the tie rod ends was an issue. I couldn't shorten the left arm enough to get the steering wheel square. After disassembly this morning it appears the threaded section of the inner rod end could have been cut further to eliminate the issue. I'm guessing I need to gain about 4-5 mm of adjustment

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-V...V8PGJWR-XL.jpg

Since I don't have a left hand thread 5/8" die laying around, it appears there are 2 options. Grind down both jamb nuts from .380" (9.6 mm) to .202" or shorten the nicely finished billet sleeve, the latter being the easiest and not compromising nearly 50% of the threaded surface.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-k...k3SzN8v-XL.jpg

Suggestions before I hack them up?

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