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Congratulations you have that problem.:thumbsup: :cheers: |
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Congrats on a successful weekend! :cheers:
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It looks and sounds awesome!!
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Congrats on the progress...sweet lookin' and soundin' FErd. :thumbsup:
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Hope you're rolling soon! Quote:
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Alas... I picked up a whole bunch of electrical supplies, ready to solve all my battery and grounding problems. Yes checked the resistance on the alternator case, so I thought with an aluminum block, that I would run a dedicated ground to the alternator to the chassis. The resistance was a little higher. While making up the cables, I noted that the heat shrink was damaged on the starter cable. Hmmm, what would cause this? I mega insulated the new #4 gauge alternator wire from possible abrasion. Then I looked at the steering linkage and drag link. Hmmm when I do a hard right turn... that linkage would come close to the Positive cables. :idea: So, after rewiring everything, I did a hard right turn... and yes very close to the wires. Clearly the wires were hanging down and contacting the drag link, on a hard right turn. Right near the inner tie rod end. S..T I was shorting the battery with every hard right turn!:bang: :lostmarbles: Yep I thought back, first time I melted the battery I was backing up doing a hard over. Each other time, I was backing into the garage, yes... doing a hard right turn. So I adjusted all the cables, made them clear the steering easily in all configurations. Added lots of protection, a few zip ties and clamps. Just the clocking of the new starter puts the cables down low near the drag link. One problem solved. Next trying to tune the carb. :) |
This week, I completed the rewiring and relocation of the starter wires (soleniod and 12v) The soleniod wire and connector were a little fried.
Fixed the oil flter adaptor. The billet piece Brent gave me with teh engine is real nice, but the oil filter smashes against the sway bar. On the previous incarnation of the engine I had the stock adaptor taken to a machine shop. He milled the adaptor on an angle, and then faced all the bolt faces on the same angle. The filter is 1/2" clear of the sway bar, in the worst case scenario. I spent a little time polishing all the Ford blue paint off of the adaptor, to match the aluminum engine, and popped it on. Some more parts coming this weekend, including another power valve and air/fuel gauge The drivers door has developed this really bad rattle in the window. It doesn't help that the engine shakes the car so much Little bit of rain this weekend. Tires have brutal traction in the rain ;) |
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The test and tune continues.
I dropped in the 10.5 power valve, adjusted the timing. Better again, almost civilized. Civilized but deafening inside ;) Seriously you need ear plugs to drive this thing. Next on the agenda, is the failing power steering pump. Bearings are going, so it's making hideous noises, and the pulley is sliding in and out at least 1/2" I have the air fuel gauge now, just have to make a revised console panel, to hold it, then hook it up. Existing gauge layout; The start button is going to be axed. I'm thinking switches at the bottom (across) and the four gauges side by side in a quad layout at the top 2/3 of the panel. Next I worked on installing the new emblems. Some fitting work, but that's done. Now I have to decide on orientation. To the side (side facing) or to the front. The problem with the side, is that the emblems are a little hard to see, with the shock towers canted towards the inside. It might encourage people to lean in over the car a little too far? |
Replaced the power steering pump tonight.
In keeping with the tradition of the car, it was a %$#@% battle, but it's in. Pulley alignment is great, no squealing and pump and steering feel good. Why should anything be easy? ;) |
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Keep truckin! |
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