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Quote:

Originally Posted by jlwdvm (Post 677871)

Maybe I should switch out my T56 Magnum for one of those...it might be easier than modifying my pedals! Speaking of trans, will you do anything to the exhaust pipes that run right along the trans to decrease heat transfer? I'm sure you will be running a trans cooler, but that looks like it would fry the trans.

The headers & exhaust system are all double coated (inside & outside) by Jet-Hot with their 2000° thermal barrier. It's the only way we can do this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Sutton (Post 677851)

On our Track-Warrior front clips ... all 4 versions ... the LCA & UCA brackets have slots for our slugs. When I designed each of these front suspensions, I made them so we can build them "semi-custom" for each customer, with different ride heights, frame widths, etc. I placed the slots in a location that allows me use precision slugs to optimize each semi-custom front frame & suspension.

I read that as the slugs aren't for tuning then, they are to allow you to reuse the design in various applications. Once you have determined the desired mount height, you choose slugs and never change them again. Am I interpreting that correctly?

Quote:

Originally Posted by carbuff (Post 677880)

Sort of. But a little off track.

I have my design so refined, it only takes small changes ... like 1/16" or 1/8" changes at a pivot point, or ball joint studs .100" taller or shorter ... to achieve any setup I want.

This allows me to optimize a front clip for Aaron Oberle that wants a ride height of 5.5" at the firewall ... and another client that wants a 4" ride height.

This also allows those clients to "change their mind" about their car. Aaron could decide he wants to drop the car 1" all around. If he called & told me, I'd tell him what the ride height change did to the geometry. And if he wanted to optimize the car for that height ... which slugs to change.

Another thing is the car owner's priority. I set up Aaron Oberle's AXT front clip to be optimum for larger autocross courses, like SCCA, CAM, Optima, etc. If Aaron decided he wanted to change & run only GoodGuys AX (tiny courses) ... or change and only run the car on road course track days, with small slug changes we could optimize his car to be the best at whatever he chooses to do.

So it's not that the car owner will never change it. They may, or may not. It simply allows them to optimize their geometry for whatever ride height or types of track they favor.

Byron, as you have one of my Speedtech Extreme front clips ... and that clip is NOT slugged ... so you know there is only one optimum ride height. The front LCA bolts need to be 8-7/16" from the ground. That is where that geometry ROCKS. The priority is AX, but it works well at road courses too. You can raise or lower your car, but the geometry would be less than optimum.

As always, thanx for the more detailed explanation. It makes total sense.

Getting my car to 'exactly' the 8 7/16" LCA bolt height is, well, challenging. Move one corner, all the others move. I'm within 1/8" at the moment, and will tune it the rest of the way once all of the weight is on the front of the car...

Quote:

Originally Posted by carbuff (Post 677890)

yes it will be a bit of a challenge if you are trying to set the corner weights at the same time, i would start by setting the ride height front and rear level. then scale it with the driver an fuel in it and in reality you should only really have to adjust the driver front and pass rear a small amount.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blake Foster (Post 677915)

What he said !

Set ride height & rake first ... then scale.

:gitrdun:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blake Foster (Post 677915)

Not trying to hijack Ron's thread, but no I'm not trying to set corner weights yet. Just trying to set ride heights. I have never been able to adjust height at just a single corner independent from the others, and I think that is expected. So trying to determine which corners to turn to adjust a single corner is challenging.

If you have a resource with tips, I'm all ears/eyes. Ron has told me how to adjust corner weights before, but getting the ride height correct always proves to be a challenge to me...

Hey Everyone! Two Quick Announcements

1. I'm outta here for 10 days. Going on my annual family vacation. This year we're in Yosemite with NO cell service! :)
* So I won't be posting on here or answering questions until after I get back June 4th.

2. Ron Sutton Race Technology is having a huge sale. I call this one: The Boss is Gone on Vacation Sale !
We only hold a "SALE" twice a year. Once during the end of year Holidays ... and once RIGHT NOW - May 23 to June 1st
* Dave Hanson & Susan Kinnicutt are Handling the Big Sale while I'm Gone.

#1 - FREE SHIPPING on EVERYTHING in our Catalog during this sale ! Save $100's if not $1000+
#2 - Plus - Free 2018 Ron Sutton Workshop Ticket (Regular $349) with any purchase over $1500
#3 - RSRT Bonus Bucks to Spend on ANYTHING in our Catalog !!! (See each item for amount)

See ALL the Sale Specials HERE.
See Online Catalog HERE.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you need anything while I'm gone, contact ...

Dave Hanson (Sales Manager)
844-722-3832 Ext 1
[email protected]

Susan Kinnicutt (Office Manger)
844-722-3832 Ext 3 (Only while I'm gone)
[email protected]

Quote:

Originally Posted by carbuff (Post 677922)

It's a lot of work to dial it in dead nuts. Optimally, you are mid stroke on all four shocks and then corner weight it. Invariably, you won't like your stance after corner weighting as it will not sit square anymore. Do you want max performance or max stance? You can't have both. Isn't that life...:D

The static heights on the rear of TOW are never level. I presume there is some side to side variation in the sheetmetal as compared to the suspension points. So I do my best to get the front to the right heights, and Ron requested that I get the rear trailing arms level to the ground. I'll do that, and the fender heights will be what they will be.

From what I recall (it's been a year since I've done this), Ron told me how to adjust the coilovers at opposing corners to move weight around with really altering the height at each corner. That's what I have done before with reasonable results. Once I get all of the weight on the car, that is my plan...

Next battle is getting alignment right such that the car will drive straight. ;)