Exactly....plain white it will stay. I'm living it up, that's for damn sure! I've been very lucky in many ways.:thumbsup:

You were in Phx? call me next time if you got the time. maybe you can haul your car down for the Goodguys Show in Nov. or March.

Very good point AJ! I had not thought that far as you can tell.
Nice rig and set up either way!!:thumbsup:

Good for you Todd!! Looks like you got just what you wanted!! Even the DS door!
Have you loaded Payback in it yet to see how it tows loaded? How about some inside pics of the trailer?

A good buddy of mine lives in Arcadia and picked me up. I just didn't have time to mess around since I was in town for about 24 hours. Partied like rock stars Friday night and it was a long drive home. :D I'll defiintely look you up next time and good guys is a real possibility.

I just got the new power steering pump on tonight and almost have it all buttoned back up. I have an autocross Sunday but will be driving the car to the event. I'll be adding some cabinets and so on to the trailer. The floor is checkered and kind of beat up but it has a winch with an extra long cable that is pretty cool. I'll get some photos soon! :thumbsup:

Todd, congrads on the truck and trailer combo!!!

Quick recommendation if you haven't already thought of it;

get a winch for the trailer if it doesn't already have one (mine has saved me more than once when the race car expired). Plus, it's nice to be able to just winch it in.

I think the DSE sub comes with a tow hook already on it--if not, get one on there---it makes it much nicer to get in and out with the winch. Mine is removable which makes for a clean setup.

Do you have any pics of the inside of the trailer?

Doug

The tow hook is on the mile long list of things to do around here. I'm going to mount one to my two bumper to frame bolts and extend it through the opening below the bumper. I put a set on the rear shock mounts before the first road race. After watching cars be towed in I decided backwards was probably not the best option. It will sure make it easy to wratchet down the ass end of the car in the trailer though.

Congrats on the new "toys" Todd.
Now all the more reason to push Payback a little rougher/tighter on the road course! Very cool.:thumbsup: :cheers:

Sweet rig Todd. Glad to hear you found something so soon that you liked. They say that side door is great to have. Good Luck with it.

Todd, you are only missing a race team and pit crew now. Nice stuff bro.

Nice work on the new truck and trailer, they look great.

Why not the DSE tow hook? Seems super simple.

Where to first??? Your so lucky to live near so many race tracks....

Just getting ready for the long winter up north here. However maybe I'll see ya soon?

Thanks boys, I didn't know DSE made a tow hook for the front? I'm so buried in selling crap(2 trailers, truck, and real estate) that I haven't even thought about the first trip! Hell yeah Dave, let's do it.

I'm back on the road as of tonight. I couldn't just replace the power steering pump. I had to make a couple other changes.

The turn one pump wasn't up to my standards cosmetically. It looked like it was painted, then assembled. I got some high temp aluminum type paint and think it turned out pretty damn nice. Almost to nice compared to my cast accessories. Anyway, the pump is working fine. I like the finish so much, I wouldn't mind painting my block this color. I also now have AN connections on both ends of my feed line with matching hose to my oil, fuel, breather hoses. Turned out really nice.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/002-7.jpg

I've had an intermittent air bubble since I've built the car that belches and makes a mess. It's happened after 5 miles and after 75. I found that plugging off the hose from the intake to the water pump is more than likely the problem. I did it for cleanliness and so I could use my Payback plate. The purpose of the hose is to allow the water to circulate through the block while the t stat is closed. It's also supposed to prevent water pump cavitation while the stat is close. To end a long story I couldn't just use hose clamps and some cheap fittings. I had to buy stainless fittings and shrink clamps. Turned out pretty cool. Now I just need to redesign another plate and the march plate will go on for a while. The plan is when I go to my Ron Davis radiator to go 16AN hose and fittings on both radiator hoses.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/003-7.jpg

Always chasing the best drivability with a holley carb. I found a guy that makes custom advance bushings. I tried the largest but it locked up my advance which I don't want. I had to pull the distrubutor to get that little booger out once it locked up the advance. It afforded me the chance to check my distributor gear wear. I had a bronze gear failure about 900 miles ago which was the wrong gear installed by my engine builder. The new melonized gear looks perfect. Anyway, I installed the second largest aluminum bushing which allows me 23 degrees initial timing with 36 total. Car like all the initial I can give it. I had the largest bushing from MSD which is 18.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...1969/006-3.jpg

So I'm ready for my autocross Sunday a few days early which is nice for once!

Just finished up a fantastic day. I ran my third autocross today. It was a pretty special day due to the fact that I broke the 3,000 mile mark on the way to the track today. I also took down my first super car. I out ran a Nissan GTR and ended up 22nd out of 101 cars at the event. I rode with the driver of the GTR and that thing is sick! It feels so good to outrun corvettes, porshes, bmw's, spec miatas. To say I'm stoked is an understatement.

I did it with lousy ass brakes. This manual wilwood setup is "junk" on the autocross. I was using rythmm and engine braking. I used the brakes twice on each run. Once in the middle of the track and the finish line. Both required a quick pump. So I got the GTR with it's traction control, awd, and abs with basically no brakes. :D I'm going hydraboost and I'm pissed to be honest.

I finished off the day taking the long way home through the Lake Mead recreation area and just relaxing doing 65 in 5th gear. Here are a couple horrible videos. I bought a camera mount at best buy and it was junk. I'm buying the go pro before my next event. At least you can hear my rythmm and engine braking. It gives you an idea of the wild ride she was on. :rofl: The whole ceiling deal had me rolling when I downloaded them, she's like what? If you have a sensitive stomach I wouldn't watch!

That's awesome Todd! Sorry to hear about the brakes, but it sounds like overall it was great!:cheers:

And yes, the videos made me a bit queasy. LOL!!

Todd...

I was smart enough - after reading your warning - to grab my puke sack before clicking the play button...

YEP - you need a better mount!!

Fun to watch though - and glad to hear you finished pretty dang well!

BTW - I run the Wilwood 7/8" master - manual - with big Baer disc - my car weighs 4023 lbs -- I have brakes that will slam you out the front window...

I think I'm car sick!!

It sounds great though! And congrats on the good finish!!

Dramamene, works every time. lol Looks like a wild ride, and plenty of fun. Glad everything went well and you had a good time.

Todd--happy to hear you got the power steering worked out. Did you notice any diff at all in the steering just by the addition of the pump and syn fluid?

Are the brakes different than what you had when you were out at Pahrump?

Doug

The steering feel seemed a little different with the new pump. I'm running the shocks with a little more compression out back so that may be causing the difference in feel on the street. Worked fine on the track but so did the old one. This was just an autocross.

The brakes are OK on the street and good on a road course. Keep in mind on an autocross you have a slalom and many corners in different directions quickly. It causes the worst brake pad knock back imaginable. If you have never autocrossed your car, then you may have a problem. On the road course you have long straights and a chance for a quick pump between corners. It also builds more heat and they love that. I really like autocross and can't live with these brakes........... The real problem is fluid volume. That little 7/8 piston can't push enough fluid to push back the caliper pistons without an excessive stroke. I can't go any larger on a manual system. I also can't tighten up my axles any more reliably and my front C6 bearing packs are as tight as can be. Greg, these will pop your eyes out of your head as well, but just not with a consistent brake pedal.....

I hear ya on the pad knockback....

It may be that the floating caliper is a better application than the fixed (Wilwood) version for THIS application (Auto X)...

I spent a bunch of time with knowledgeable brake people - the factory reps at Brembo - Wilwood and Baer... My questions were always around one factor - DO I NEED A POWER BOOSTER of some kind... given a two ton car... and relatively high power. They all asked me if any of the race cars out there used power brakes... and that answer is NO. So that is why I went with the 7/8" Wilwood manual master cylinder. BUT I have Baer brakes which are floating calipers...

I would think that the larger the rotor - the more knock-back would be applied - as a small movement would be magnified by the diameter of the rotor. So NOW I'M WONDERING if a simple 2 # residual valve wouldn't "help". This would keep 2 #'s of 'pressure' (check valve) on the line...

Maybe the guys at KORE3 would have some ideas??

I agree the floater would be a much better option. I am running a 2# now and it made no difference. It's just not enough to move a caliper piston. I have all this money tied up in these calipers and e brake setup. A hydraboost will be cheaper but will I be happy with it? Guess I better do my due diligence. There has been talk of a 10# residual and that wouldn't bother me on a track car. But I do drive it alot of the street and that worries me a little.

Makes me wonder what The Pozzi's would run... or what Steve is running on Bad Penny etc.

I was thinking about that the other day....I may be doing a little detective work in a couple weeks. You in?:unibrow:

I will post this - you might have read it already - but as usual - "others" here may not be as familiar with all of this - and these forums (IMHO) are best used for LEARNING lots of stuff - even if it doesn't directly affect "us"...

This is a link to StopTech - and a page on KNOCKBACK...

In the short read -- they offer some "advice" -- and in the end... their advice for a STREET driven TRACK CAR is to get used to tapping the brakes!! :lol:

But here it is - because it offers solutions to think about - and it's a good read.


http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_knockback.shtml

Good to hear you had a good day except for the brakes Todd.
Glad the power steering worked out. Your car is sick. It must have felt awesome outrunning those other cars out there!
Keep up the great work.:thumbsup: :cheers:

Thanks Greg.....my problem is that I experience is putting around town as well. Not severe but noticable. I'd say 1 inch pedal change on the street and almost to the floor on the autocross.

WOW!! That's just scary....

So here's the 64 dollar question -- if it's the knockback that is 'causing this -- what good would it do you to install a power adder... When going to the floor etc is a fluid / fill / recovery issue rather than not having ENOUGH pressure once you overcome that problem?

Just talking out loud here....

It would allow me to run a larger master cylinder piston needing less pedal stroke to push the caliper pistons back out. I found out Moser changed bearing manufacturers today. I'm going to get a new set from napa and do a little investigating. If I get motivated, I'll pull an axle tonight.

Todd, you know we have had lots of
 

emails on this very subject. After speaking to Ron after he changed his to the electic/power brakes, all of his problems went away.

I think my problem is my masters are on the verge of being too small so the knockback that I am getting is amplified due to the small volume of fluid. When I go up in size (master) the pedal is too heavy and I can barely get the car to stop to my liking.

I am making the move to power brakes very soon. Going to the DSE booster route as my motor makes plenty of vaccum. Gotta love an LS motor

Maybe I have gotten old and soft, but I love the brakes on my wife's M3 convertible. If I had to do a full 20 minute session on a track that had a lot of braking zones I would be worn out mentally and physically with my car...and I go to the gym. I am on the Corvette Forum almost everyday, and the guys that are tracking their cars are all running power brakes with the factory ABS. They are upgrading to different calipers and pads.

Rupp WAS using the same wilwood set-up with the 7/8's Wilwood master.

On a side note: I purchased a set of Wilwood "B" pads and they were unbelieveable. If I could run those all of the time I would not change a thing, unfortunately, they are noisey, hard on rotors and very dusty. We all know how expensive the Wilwood rotors are...

Are all your brake lines 3/16"? AND you BENCH BLED that master prior to installation?

I still can't believe how many people DON'T do that... and then P and moan about their poopie brake performance! That and they run 1/4" lines... so the pressure you make with the smaller diameter master - is eaten by the larger diameter lines (total fluid volume in the system)...

I ASSume you're running an adjustable prop valve.... which (IMHO) are almost useless given our tire sizes... I'm sure that will cause a big argument now - but I think they're useless because of the TIRE SIZE BIAS we've already dialed in... Our rears are larger diameter - and fatter to begin with... add a bit of nose dive/weight transfer... and the fronts are locking up first.

Yes and yes. There's not one air bubble in one brake line! Pedal is great as long as you go straight. LOL

I knew that - but I "ask" because OTHERS read these threads - and the question might get them 'on board' with diagnosing their issues (if any).

I've never tracked my Nomad - so I might have the same issues you're having... and just don't know it!

I've got Wilwoods on the Minotti... but it's still a work in progress - but I'm most definitely planning on tracking that car!

Todd how did the trailer pull with the car in there?

I haven't pulled her yet Wayne. Hope to soon....

Found some video....car looks good! Rear sway bar may be in my near future. This should make up for those other videos..:D
http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=MVI_4874.flv
http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=MVI_4865.flv
http://s694.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=MVI_4863.flv
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_4851.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_4867.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_4898.jpg

Good luck with the brake issue Todd. The car looks great out on the track!

I know you went over this somewhere back in this thread but I didn't find it after a QUICK search. If you don't mind answering again what wheel and tire combo you are running on the track. Brand included please?
Thanks!:cheers:

Thanks man....I'm running a Forgeline ZX3R with titanium bolts, brushed outer/matte black center. The widths are 18x12 and 18x10 with a 335/30/18 and 275/35/18. Extremely happy with the combination. I just want to add that these videos are from the first heat and I picked up a full 3 seconds towards the end of my last heat with a best of 45.3...

It's one place is our lives where FAT is GOOD!!

EEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAA

Awesome Todd.
Glad you had fun. Thanks for posting those other videos.:cheers: