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Yea I’ll be more aggressive at the next one. This was spike of 19psi but settle to 13-14psi. Once fueling is sorted boost will go up. Felt like I was on a rollercoaster ride. Was wildly fast feeling. Only babied it immediately off the line. It was floored by the time I was in top of 1st! |
*sees video.
off to buy 2 turbos :RunninDog: |
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Carry 19-20 psi THROUGH 3rd and 4th and I bet that gets it in the upper 150s...Fuel system will be required for that for sure. Little harder launch and it's there i'm sure. |
Like usual, enough wasn't enough. While the clutch is out and being diagnosed, i just ordered a fuel pump replacement for one of my V modules, that houses twin 525LPH Hellcat pumps. Ordering the lines and fittings to add this as my "secondary" pump setup. This should give me some breathing room on the power side, as i was losing fuel pressure in the pass above. This will be adding an extra 75% fuel flow and should allow me to get close to maxing out those ID1700x if the turbos are up for it. All that's left for fuel system upgrade is the controller (CarlC :hello:) to ship, and a few small fittings.
https://i.imgur.com/a5hdwwv.png |
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Trans has been out and put back in. Issue with clutch was slave related and specifically about being a cheap china knockoff piece (From O'Reillys) that had all the markings of a GM piece so i mistakenly assumed same. My fault. Also with new trans and new slave, I should have RE-measured for clutch spacing/shimming needed and I didn't. My mistake.
Trans is back in, with a GM replacement slave, measured out and in the range of what is acceptable per Manuf Recommendations. I will check this evening to see if the clutch releases like it should after bleeding fully. After that is confirmed I will be re-installing all the turbo piping / exhaust I had to remove, and the new Bowler shifter (previous had split the boot and was leaking). Old T56 magnum shifter with 300 miles: https://i.imgur.com/aSj3KNj.jpg?1 New shifter and new seal design: https://i.imgur.com/TiU3Rfj.jpg https://i.imgur.com/z2H32YB.jpg Based on some signs of fuel starvation and the car having so much left on the table power wise, I've started to collect parts for fuel system change: Vaporworx controller: https://i.imgur.com/ANIb8fQ.jpg?1 Twin Walbro 525LPH (285s) in custom Housing: https://i.imgur.com/Kt3lds3.jpg?1 Fancy fuse panel for pump and future amp ANL fuses: https://i.imgur.com/WcAdIWP.jpg?1 Not shown is the new Fuelab FPR, hoses/fittings, etc needed for the pump and fuel rail feed changes. Also have some more items on order for changing the WG control to Dome control and twin solenoids. Hoping it all fits around what I already have but there is more work needed there, like drilling and tapping the compressor housing, so that will be a bit. |
Almost 10 years on this thread what a build.
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Will, what size fuel lines are you running to the front? All flex, or hard lines? |
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System currently is: Two CTS-V pumps Two -6AN feed lines (one goes through a Flex Fuel Sensor) Billet y-block, 2x -6AN to -10AN -10AN PTFE line to a inline filter -10AN/-10AN Filter -10AN PTFE to the passenger fuel rail, rear Passenger Fuel Rail -8AN PTFE Crossover Driver Fuel Rail Plug with Fuel Pressure Sensor as a "dead head" Changing it up slightly. One V pump will remain and the flex fuel sensor will be on that -6AN line. One V pump is being replaced with the Ricks twin 525LPM pump configuration with -10AN from the tank The -10AN line will have a Fuel Pressure Regulator acting as a "safety" for the V pump if i see a big pressure spike. V pump cant bypass enough fuel for the two 525's. This Fuel Pressure Regulator will have a -6AN return to the tank Billet Y block will be re-configured to have a -10AN/-6AN to -10AN Everything from there will be same to engine bay. In engine bay i'm splitting the -10AN line that originally went to passenger rail to another Billet Y block configured as -10AN to 2x -8AN Each AN line will feed the rear of each rail, pressure sensor inline on the driver rear through an adapter fitting. I'll be getting pictures of these upgrades and will share. Hoping to start them today or tomorrow. Waiting on some 8GA wire to show up monday before i can put the tank back in position but can mount the FPR, configure the lines, etc. |
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http://bentcustomandperformance.com/ |
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Update time:
We got some decent weather in Houston last week, temperature had fallen but more importantly as humidity was low. I took the opportunity to burn some vacation at work i have to kill by end of the month and move towards upgrading the car's fuel system a touch. Pump as mentioned previously had arrived. Details: Ricks Custom Fuel hat Twin Walbro 525 (Hellcats) Spun aluminum fuel retention bucket. https://i.imgur.com/Kt3lds3.jpg?1 Inside that is this: WIth the alternative that both my pumps feed through the "Primary" port on the top, as i wont have this module staged. https://i.imgur.com/a5hdwwv.png I proceeded to drain the 5ish, gal of fuel that was in the tank but putting my "drain hose" on the inline fuel filter, and pumped it into a spare gas can. Using holley efi and increasing pump prime time, this was pretty easy to do. Next up was drop the tank! https://i.imgur.com/Dg30JSZ.jpg?2 I marked each location for what was primary and what was secondary pump location. This was driven off the fact i wanted to keep the "primary" as the one that feeds the flex fuel sensor, that's the only driving case, either could have been retained. Primary, as marked is the one on the right in the pic below (Driver's side of the car). https://i.imgur.com/fbINYRJ.jpg?2 Next up was to pull both modules, one for replacement and one to replace the factory bypass valve (63-65psi) with the DeatschWerks 90psi relief valve. Pump removed and separated from housing to access the relief valve. https://i.imgur.com/SmEi4Xg.jpg?1 Relief valve cage removed, and valve replaced. https://i.imgur.com/4EqpB9K.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/CCgJlxL.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/v7ohSWB.jpg?1 From here that module went back in, and re-connected to the "corner pickups" that are part of the Ricks/Vaporworx system. These are EXCELLENT for corner fuel supply, sad i lose this on the secondary pump but shouldn't pose any problems. https://i.imgur.com/ci9vBVj.jpg?2 At this point it's time to setup the second module. I loosened the screws for the spun housing and the fuel pumps and proceed to lower into the tank to ensure pump is "on bottom." https://i.imgur.com/GR9i60r.jpg?2 Lines installed to see what fittings i like best for the Feed (-10AN) and Return (-6AN). https://i.imgur.com/eIRpsqY.jpg?2 Pumps wired with the pumps wired together. 8GA wire used for the pump feed as these two together as max capacity, draw significant amperage. And I always go overkill on this stuff... https://i.imgur.com/LgK5ok9.jpg?2 Moving on from there is to mount he Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) that is setup as a safety bypass for the CTS-V pump. If i see a pressure spike, the hellcat pumps dont have an internal bypass, and the V bypass cant flow enough. This is a safety to ensure in that event, the V pump survives. This looks like a good spot. By the Flex fuel sensor that the main pump feeds. https://i.imgur.com/Y1juwiu.jpg?1 **** me, closer than i had anticipated. It would have been nicer to have a bit more room, but this is a set it and forget it type deal (i hope) so i'll suffer with the initial setup to have a clean configuration. https://i.imgur.com/Lm6MSVl.jpg?2 The lines are PTFE, so they're very still and a bit of a bear to work with. https://i.imgur.com/MoAT5f4.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/5mwSmTy.jpg?1 Moving on to the feed and return lines to the tank. As the saying goes, measure twice and cut once...Well i measured, 5 times, got "long" and "short" lengths that i felt would work for the feed and went for a mid point erring on the long side...Ended up Short....How TF. PTFE is a mother ****er to work with as the bend radius is LARGE. I used the fittings that seemed appropriate (90deg for both -10AN and -6AN lines) and i'm not happy with either. https://i.imgur.com/UPrpVf8.jpg?1 Shown above you can see the "ripple" in the coating as the line is short into the top of the FPR. This is unacceptable, so will be replaced. I have a 120deg fitting that I will try on the same line, prior to removing the line and checking the PTFE lining to see if it's distorted/torn/etc. I purchased additional line as well to ensure i can replace it if needed. The return line isn't as bad, but a 120deg fitting will give a better departure for the return given it's above the rear housing to ensure no clashing will happen. i have measured and have assured myself that the shock will bottom out (bump stop) prior to contacting the line enough to cause damage to the line or the fitting. That said, that part is still pending completion, hopefully today when they all arrive. Said **** it and went to finishing up the wiring. I'm adding a big fuse for the control of the system and the pumps, i have never been happy with the wiring to the module prior but it was "good enough." That's since changed in my philosophy and i'm trying to make it RIGHT, so at least this wont need changing when i do the car re-wire down the road. I dont have a good photo on my PC of my old PWM fuel pump controller, but it looks like this: https://i.imgur.com/WC6d9bl.png Small and works to control dual CTS-V pumps, but doesn't have the thermal or amperage capacity to support the larger hellcat pumps. Enter the new unit: This piece is significantly larger than the other, by about 3x the footprint but also about 2-3x as tall as well. https://i.imgur.com/ANIb8fQ.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/Qh20nW0.jpg?1 Tight squeese to get all the wiring in that box and still have room for the lid to close. https://i.imgur.com/7b8pFC3.jpg?2 As shared previously Steve Meade Designs came through the nice ANL fuse holder. This will allow expansion in the future for not only 2 amps but potentially an onboard air system as well (if i see that as necessary). https://i.imgur.com/WcAdIWP.jpg?1 Here it is in the trunk, where the old controller module was that has since been relocated. This position works for the sub box i have for the stereo later on down the road. Mind the dirty trunk, i wasn't in the detailing mood so it's a bit filthy. What can be seen here is a 4Ga wire that goes to the distribution side of the fuse block, a 60 amp fuse between that and the power feed 8ga wire that goes to the controller. https://i.imgur.com/1X5Y9xr.jpg?1 Dont mind the bundle of red / white wires, that's the AC power and signal wires that will be hooked up and tidied up once the AC system is finished. They're out of the way for now. What you can see on the right side of that screen are two wiring bulkheads. Each of these will be used as the feed for the big pumps. The red "positive" bulkhead is the PWM main power feed from the controller, and on the bottom connected to the 8GA wire to the pump itself. The black "ground" wire has multiple grounds for various sensors in the back, as well as the ground directly to the controller. There is a ground cable (2/0) that is from this directly to battery, and a 2/0 ground strap that goes to the frame now as well. Grounding has improved dramatically as part of this upgrade as well. https://i.imgur.com/Vczf5cA.jpg?1 What is difficult to see in the photo, is directly between the battery tray and the ground bulkhead, there is a small pass through / grommet where my battery tender wire passes. Previously i had to pop the trunk to access this and it was annoying, now i can reach under car and grab the lead and connect it. I'm utilizing the former rear leave spring bushing spot to pass wires through and keep them orderly under the car. I'll try to get some more pictures of the finished wiring under the car when i'm out there later finishing up this fuel system (lines) and setting the FPR. To be continued! |
Thanks for all the detailed explanations and pics. Really helps me visualize what I will need to do in the future for mine, although, I will not be as extreme..lol
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Yes! Ditto the thanks for the details! Huge help.
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Well went to a private rental last Saturday. In hopes for a 9@150+ I decided to make some changes.
1)adjusted rear shocks for some more weight transfer. 2) replaced the wg spring with a little stiffer one. Boost solenoid having a hard time keeping up with duty cycle above 50%. Pulled the spring that made 7psi on gate out and saw it was a “5.6psi” spring. Put a 10psi spring in it and went about my way. First pass: Test the wg spring on gate and ensure the fuel system working. Roll it out slow. Get it in 3rd and lay into it. AFR looking good down the track, so I grabbed second. Ran 13.6@133. https://i.imgur.com/LdAxg8m.jpg Back to the pits and pull logs. Fuel working perfect. Made the expected 13psi on waste gate. All looks good. Add duty cycle to it (30%) and go for another pass to see what that makes. Second pass: Take off easy again. Looking at logs shift out of first at 4500. Out of second at 5500. Then rev 3rd to 6800. Car feels good and feels fast. Run a 10.5@147. Promising given the soft 1st and 2nd gear. https://i.imgur.com/wHx2BUp.jpg Go look at the log and see the car made 18psi in 2nd gear and peaked 21psi in 3rd and 4th after the shifts. But boost still falling back to 15-16 range. I decide 150mph is very attainable. And it’s happening next pass. Third pass: I get greedy. Rev a little more but still soft 60ft. I’m running first out this time. Grab second gear hard at 6800rpm and 20psi boost. Hard shift and a loud bang out back. Doesn’t look good. Drove to end of track easy. Rear makes aloud pop when I turn off track. Go to pits and make some figure 8s in and out of load to try and test diff. Acting normally. Fourth “Pass”: I pull up again. Same tune. Ready to try again and stay in it. Proceed to burnout and hear a loud pop at the start. Can see me look to my friend on the side to see if he waves me off. He doesn’t. As I’m at the line, some other friends ran up and got the track to stop me. Apparently more noise than just that pop that isn’t noticeable on camera. Day is done. Diff is done. Car is up on blocks now and will have diff pulled this week. If it warrants it, I’ll take some pics along the way to show the damage. |
Sucks that the Diff is done, but this is how they tend to get faster. lol Glad to see you're out having fun with the car! That's what it's all about.
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Going back, depending on what broke, will change what i fix/repair. If it's just the diff, I'll likely replace the eaton tru-trac with the wave trac. GearFX said that was a nicer piece and machined housing. Stronger AND a lifetime warranty according to Moser/Eaton. That of course will retain the 31 spline axles, so it's days would still be limited. Sadly the housing that I got, and maybe is standard still, is a 3.062" carrier bearing housing. Cant fit 35spline with that. So if i wanted to upgrade axles, it would be a new center section/third member. Down the road this definitely will be the path forward, and I'll run a Strange S-trac which has a warranty and is no doubt the toughest torsion style diff. Only availble in 35 spline however for the 9". |
Nothing like beating it until it breaks...
It sounds great... https://memes.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/d...d-b4ff6cf926e2 |
Gonna push her at the next track outing?
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Just got the thing back up and running. Sounding great on all 8 cylinders again! |
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I’ll be going to local quarter in a little over a week. As BigBronco said, maiden drive after new springs and rockers was last night and it seems to be back to 100%. I’ll drive it a little more this weekend to see. |
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That's fast!!!!!!!!! Congrats! :drive::cheering::dance::cheers:
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Congrats, Will!
Coolest part to me is watching the tire stretch out as the speed increased. You can see it starting to pull away from the bead just a bit as he climbs in speed. |
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Badassery right there!!!!
Making me want a manual trans!!! |
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Although, how could that much power, not be fun :D |
Sorry for delay on some details about the track trip, was having issues with my personal PC and work PC has Imgur blocked. Didn't want to put all these pics together on the Iphone so just waited it out.
Track trip as mentioned before went well. Car ran back to back 9.8s at 150. Ended up hurting the diff on the first "hard" launch. Didn't have any wheel hop but it was making plenty of noise after the pass. If you recall i had issue with diff before, took it all apart and it was in top condition. This time that wasn't the case. Noise wasn't intermittent like before, it was ANY time the car was turning and diff was required to function. Ran the second 9.8 with it making a bunch of noise and then a final pass where it did get a little wheel hop and that surely finished it off. Jack the car up in the garage and drain the fluid: As soon as the plug was out i hear metal hit the pan! This to me was good news as last time there was no evidence and frustrating with no obvious cause. Magnet pulled this out, there wasn't many pieces but there were more than none... https://i.imgur.com/geVhYG8.jpg Well time to pull the center out and take a look. Passenger side wheel comes off no drama. Driver's side however... WTF...You can see the look on my face in the lug nut as well...This isn't good... https://i.imgur.com/ml5Ny7W.jpg Couldn't get a socket on 3 of the 5 nuts, all bent but 3 so much that socket wasn't going on...What to do? I can access the axle retainer, so lets pull the axle and wheel together, mission Save the Forgeline starts now. https://i.imgur.com/w8hfA4H.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0RvjL7r.jpg https://i.imgur.com/rMPsLDY.jpg SUCCESS! https://i.imgur.com/jl1uaGf.jpg Those axle splines look healthy....Again only happened to the driver's side, passenger axle looked fine. https://i.imgur.com/Jy6OSo4.jpg Now the unpleasant activity of drilling out wheel studs... https://i.imgur.com/7E6OZHZ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qrwrjae.jpg First one down. https://i.imgur.com/rhNNHA6.jpg All done, wheels is in top condition. Luckily. https://i.imgur.com/lHyLfGU.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/NC4QN1T.jpg Diff gets pulled and inspected: https://i.imgur.com/yqWv5Fo.jpg First check, I cant see anything wrong with it. Concern builds remembering the last time. Till i spot this. you can see in the small hole the end of the pinion gears in the diff, and i see some metal in there. https://i.imgur.com/4eudois.jpg Time to pull it down further and inspect. At this point with a damaged axle, I'm already convinced to upgrade. Now I want to see it for curiosity/research purposes. https://i.imgur.com/5kCjh5z.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ABAouMG.jpg |
Pulling the diff itself apart was problematic as well, but knowing it was thrashed, i got it done. The small hardware we thought we wouldn't be loosening again so used red-locktite ended up snapping or stripping...Back to the drill bits!
https://i.imgur.com/8P9Qa1g.jpg Well **** we found the bombsite. https://i.imgur.com/UPX68As.jpg Couldn't get any of the gears out (yet) so pulled some of the piece i could get out for a closer look. https://i.imgur.com/ZJDgzLp.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HACldne.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EnxHxbv.jpg With this knowledge it was time to look into the upgrades. By the skin of my teeth I got the order in Monday for Cyber Monday discounts at Strange Engineering. Unfortunately my 3rd member has smaller bearing (OEM size) case and cant house 35 spline axles. I was set on trying the Strange S-trac differential, so new center section it is. Strange Thru-bolt Pro Aluminum Housing w/ 3.50 gears and S-trac diff. https://i.imgur.com/RXBZ67y.png Also picked up the corresponding 35 spline Alloy axles. Went back with 1/2" studs, as it became problematic to make 5/8" fit. If i end up regretting this, i'll eat some crow and upgrade to 5/8" later on. I really wanted to try the S-trac as in principle it's the same as the Trutrac that I have, but instead of 4 sets of pinion gears it has 5, and they're all 9310 material so significantly stronger. Online research shows strong evidence of surviving in heavy stick cars. If not, it carries a lifetime warranty... Sorry for the long winded response, I'll post more updates when it starts going back together! |
Your axle pick looks like the splines are twisted to me, Will.
Glad the Forgelines were saved. |
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