Look to see if there is a big azz GROUND between motor and chassis -- lots of people overlook that and it will cause all manor of starter motor ills.:rolleyes:



Funny on the vasectomy -- I got a shiny new Red Steve Millen tricked out Miata from my wife the day I got mine. :thumbsup:

I got a double ruptured L3-4 disk December 16th for mine............I was still being very cautious too. :mad: Don't think I'll drive the car on the 16th. :_paranoid

Not sure on the starter issue ground isn't in place so it's now on the list. :thumbsup:

With the failure to fire issue at break-in time the little guy got a workout which could have created an issue. Or the battery is just a little weak and with additional heat it resists. It's been on a float charger, I'll put a meter on it shortly.

The first time it happened I rolled it backwards and tried to lite it in reverse, it didn't lite but I tried the starter and it worked fine. Then I went and filled up after a little 2 mile run on the freeway and it failed again. Thankfully I was parked in a spot that had a slope so a little push and 2nd gear got it to fire.

The fine tuning after other people have been involved and new products were installed is part of the game. ;)

Congrats and she's lookn GREAT!!!!

Going out to install my new MC in a few

We'll be "MC buddies" :woot:

Thanks Doggy!

You're going to like having a man-pedal. :D :thumbsup: :D

I bench bled mine and used a Mighty Vac starting with the longest lines and got a good pedal first attempt.

Battery was at 13.07 volts, female spade switch connection on solenoid was a little loose, starter gear clearance looked a little tight so I added one shim.

If I make a 10 Ga motor to inner fender ground lead would that be adequate?

Edit - Quick test drive, no starter issues.

But the 6.5 Power Valves are an issue. Hopefully I can locate a couple 5 or 5.5's locally today.

Congrats man! She looks great and ready to roll again... better than ever... and your work is clean. :thumbsup:

I'm a big boy now!! :willy: :willy: :willy:

A mighty vac?? Please explain

Just my personal preference... with a bigger cam I don't run PV's

Mighty Vac: http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp

Hmmm.....cam isn't huge: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5002/

The vac secondary Demon worked decent with a 5.5 but this set up doesn't appear to get much more than 10" at idle so far. Local shop doesn't have 5.0's but have 5.5 and 4.5's........error on the low vac side?

Downside to running power valve plugs on the street??

Thanks for the vac thing.. I thought you were talking about something else

As you know the power valve allows the carb to be used with main jets that are about 8 sizes smaller, which will allow better gas mileage during part throttle cruising which sometimes is the case during much of the time of street driving. So If get rid of the power valve, you must go bigger with the main jet sizes. (5-8 sizes bigger) Car will run a little richer and may load up a little while idling ( I just rev it a little and she stays clean). IMOHO i am in and out of the gas most of the time so it never sees the throttle in one position for very long.. My car pulls 3.5-4" vac at idle
__________________

NO... it should be equal gauge to your positive battery cable.


Technically you can fudge down a size or so and make the run as short as possible.

I generally make it a "loop" from the bolt that goes thru the motor motor mount to the block (bellhousing or similar).

It's a circuit -- so the draw of the starter (200 amps) must be carried thru that circuit... i.e., the ground. You've got "wubba" motor mounts and tranny mount and blah blah blah... so it's best to just assume you have lousy ground circuit and make one that you know handles the job. Things will run better electrically. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

Anyone ever tell you that you've got a big ........cam! :unibrow:
Me don't have wubba mounts. :D Is that grounded enough?

Big boys have hard mounts.....


:willy: :D

Don't have the off idle throttle dialed..............



Audio wasn't very good, camera might have been too close to the exhaust tip.
I know the sheriff's heard it real good......they could have easily put the hassle on me.

Exhaust note definitely changed with the AFR heads and change from 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 primaries.....similar but slightly different.

She sounds good SiEg :woot: Lucky the Fuzz didn't get ya, and you weren't kidding about "back roads".. Bet it feels great to be driving it again Congrats.

HAHAHAHAHA! He goes in like a lion and out like a lamb.....


Not sure what your timing set up is --- I'd be at 16 or 18* initial -- and probably 34* total. Those heads will want LESS timing...

Can't remember if you have vacuum advance or not - but I'd just plug it and run pure mechanical. Vacuum is just for gas milage when you're part throttle cruising anyway.

Run a timing curve that maybe uses one light silver and one light blue spring...

Sounds good but the off idle bog would bother me and that might not be all carb... Especially if you're initial is down around 10* or so.

Page 44, post # 433, pic #2 No vacume advance

Thanks -- Yep see that.


Sieg -- I'd be running the BLACK 18* STOP bushing in that distributor... Are you familiar with how to change that out. Do you have the set that came with the distributor? It should also have come with some springs -- those come with what I lovingly refer to as GARAGE DOOR springs -- big ass fat silver pair -- they shouldn't be run in anything.... You'll wake that thing right up with the right spings in there. As posted above -- that motor would like the light blue - light silver combo... and that 18* stop bushing. :thumbsup:

Crank in more initial timing == you'll have to back your idle adjustment down to compensate (idle will rise with more timing).

I'm glad I didn't have to get down on my hands and knees and beg for forgiveness. :rolleyes:

12* initial with 25* mechanical with light silver & blue.

I won't tolerate a bog it will end up close to Fi response...........stalling under hard braking may be the bigger challenge. :D

Thanks GW,

My plan is to double check carb baselines - throttle plates/transfer slots, idle bypass valve and mixture screws. Once that's verified I'll throw a little more initial timing at it (14-16*) and see how it responds off idle. After those bases are covered I'm free to experiment with total timing and rate.

After yesterdays little brush with the law (:D) the motor appears to be stronger through the range. Decent tuning weather today!

It's a pain as I have to drive 6 blocks to make that tuning run. :D

Yes it's nice to have it back. :thumbsup:

Congrats Sieg, what you have done since August should serve as an inspiration.:thumbsup:
I seriously need to get busy if I am ever to get to a "tuning" stage.
Currently sitting on the fence until after the Holidays with my finger on the button for an HTP Mig.

Remember that depending on the stop bushing used --- when you advance your initial -- you're automatically advancing your total (you add the stop bushing spec to the initial timing setting). Thus the recommendation to switch to the 18* (Black) stop bushing.

With the light silver and light blue springs all your timing should be in by around 2000 rpms... so that doesn't allow you much experimentation before you have way too much timing using your current 25* bushing.

My 408 SBC with EFI runs 15* Initial and 33* total. Small Dart 180 aluminum heads, smallish cam and dyno'd to come up with that combo.

Lol, loved how your demeanor changed after the trun around.

That sounded pretty good, and I'm just plain jealous that you have a test road that close...

Post some more please.

Unlike the Intros I actually have to agree with GW on this one. Start with the total timing you want and work backward. 34 minus 18 is 16 initial which it probably around where you want to be. THen dial in the adv curve from there.
If your motor needed 40 deg like my dinosaur then maybe the 25* bushing would be useful but in your case it's better to star with the 18*. :willy:

Glad to see you have it on the road.:D

Understand the initial + mechanical = total.

Light blue/silver with 18* bushy gives total at about 2200. Two light silvers gives it all at 1750ish.

I double checked last night and I set it up with the two light blues and silver bushing (25*). So it's getting 37* at 3300ish.

Dogs are walked, prime rib egg and cheese sammich on grilled wheat sourdough for wifey and I are consumed.........it's after 10 am = green light to fire it up and start tinkering! Daughters V-ball games aren't until 6 pm. :woot:

Nice to see you finally drug yourself out of bed :lol: Thanks for the confirmation :thumbsup:
Now if I can easily change the bushing without pulling the distributor. :_paranoid

Hey! I can't stick my tail between my legs and exit gracefully with the best of them. :unibrow:

More videos once it doesn't make me appear like it's my first time driving a clutch. :D

It is required to pull the distributor to change stop bushings....

It's just an azz ackward job to try to back the nut off --- put a new bushing on and hold it upside-down while trying to start the nut on again. By the time you do all that -- it's far easier to just pop the cap off and yard the SOB out of there.

HA!
Just did the black bushing and silver spring without one fumble!!!

I know how to use my tools.......and a little dab of grease. :rofl: :rofl: :thumbsup:

Now it's time to warm and tune :woot:

:hail: :thumbsup: :hail: :thumbsup: :hail: :thumbsup:

Congrats on getting it back on the road, Scott

Thanks Trey

:thumbsup:

Carb baseline confirmed, throttle transfer slots even, idle mixture screws balanced, idle bypass used to set rpm, timing at 16* total at 34*.
Much better off idle though at the end of the run the idle rpm had crept up 200 rpm to 1200. Getting just shy of 11" vac. at 1000 rpm.
Very drivable now!

All said the Holley HP Ultra is better in 3 test drives than the original Speed Demon 650VS was in hours upon hours of tuning and testing. Haven't even touched the pump cams or squirters.



Something ain't right with the audio on this camera. Loose case or mic or? Sounds like there's a lot of lose parts on the rear of the car...........if there is I sure can't hear them. I'll try the backup camera in the same location before shimming, swapping cases and using the skeleton rear door.

Yeah, that is a bummer the audio is letting you down because it takes the fun out of watching to be honest. I hope the issue is easily corrected so you can show us what Norwood really has to say:yes:

Great to hear that the nut behind the wheel is pleased with the changes especially after what all you went through!

It's nice when you make adjustments and it responds :woot:

I'll wait and watch the HD vid :unibrow:

Sounds more responsive...

I'd check the muffler bearings.



:cheers:

It's pretty good, just got to push it into 3 digits and it felt pretty healthy for secondhand parts Gen 1 put together by a Springtuckey auto shop.

Do you really think sealed tapered unobtainium bearings could sound that bad?

Excuse the sloppy loop......first time with the NT05's in the wet, they aren't exactly grippy in those conditions.

Sealed muffler bearings are the best... until they become unsealed... then... not so much.



Really sounded like a camera issue.

That's the Hero2 I use off road so it's hit the ground a few times. The audio's never been that bad and it's just been sitting in the case? :( As noted I try the other one.

The new Hero3 is set up to use remote mic's and comes Bluetooth enabled. Control it with the remote or your iPhone or Smartphone and they've added cinema quality levels and more.

How tight is the cam when inside the plastic case with the door shut? I had to add some strips of tape on one end of mine to get some rattling to go away. It's a common issue.