Lateral-g Forums - 1968 Camaro "Badmotorfinger" v2.2

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- - 1968 Camaro "Badmotorfinger" v2.2 (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28515)

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69MSA (Post 322774)

Here are the two tell-tale signs that you have knockback
1. when you drive your car and apply the brakes following a turn, nothing happens... until you tap the brakes a couple times.

2. When you get out of your car you need a new pair of pants.

There is also the possibility that you won't have any problems at all. Despite going to a floater setup in the near future, Steve doesn't have any issues with Bad Penny, and it's running manual brakes, tapered barings, and fixed calipers.

Matt

There are also anti-knock back springs available these days but it's always a good idea to give the middle pedal a little tap when going down the main straight before the braking zone to reset the brakes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by conekiller13 (Post 322780)

Yep, Stielow does this on the straights he said in Todd's knockback thread. If he's doing it, it must be the thing to do...

I tap the brakes on the main stretch every time as well. To be honest, it settles me a bit just to verify the brakes are there before I go to a 90mph turn at 135+mph :D A number of pros set the brakes the exact same way, it was just a few months ago I was watching the V8 Supercar races from Australia on Speed and they were showing the in-car of one of the drivers and every time on the long straights I would see him tap the brakes to set them and verify they were there.

cool car too!

Tim - that makes a lot of sense, and at those speeds, can ya really blame someone? :)

Thanks for the words.

It's kinda funny watchin' the guys do that on T.V. during races. Their "tapping" of the brake pedal to set it can look a bit more like a couple quick stomps....:drive:

Been ordering a bunch of stuff from Summit with those coupon codes posted on here recenty (thanks to that poster) -- mostly just gaskets/seals to button up this leaky SOB of a motor I have.

But I did decide to upgrade my pan from what I already thought I had upgraded to. I think I am not the only one out there who isn't crystal clear on this either, so thought I'd share. CV Products/Champ makes 2 versions of this SBC pan but many people mistakenly call both of them "road race" pans. One of them is a circle track pan with trap doors only on the left side (3 total) and the true RR pan (5 total) has trap doors on both sides. I found the CV/Champ RR pan on Amazon of all places for $251 with free shipping. It said 2 left in stock when I ordered.

Part #s are (CV) CV1080-LT-RR, and (Champ) CP80LT-RR. Same pan. Here are specs:

http://www.champpans.com/index.cfm?e...ctdetail&id=43

Anyway, after spending a good 2-3 hours last night researching old threads, part #s, dealer sites, and PM'ing people, I decided I wanted this pan -- and this post from 2008 helped me feel very good about it too, if anyone else is researching pan options. It's always nice to get an opinion from someone on a subject who has experienced firsthand all the options out there.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...174#post366174

Very cool Dave. I look forward to updated pics as well.:thumbsup:

Keep the fire burnin', Dan. Cheers!!! :cheers:

Keep on keepin on Dave! You deff did the right thing on getting a TRUE RR pan! :yes:

Yeah Dan (hahahaha)! BTW, haapy hoidays Bro....:)