It's relatively snug. I just looked it over and it's possible the case shutter button pin could just be contacting the camera shutter button when the door is closed and latched if the camera is riding high in the case. Pushing and holding the camera into the case on lower side of the back results in .011-.08clearance, pushing in on the upper side of the back gives .004, pushing in on the upper side and down on the latch area resulted in .002 with moderate pressure. If that button is making contact it could create the odd sounding resonance....??

I'll try this heavy vinyl tape shim in the top of the case and see what happens:
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4...-4dg2Qp2-L.jpg

Dude... I knew we had this convo before... check these posts 20+ months ago... :lol:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...&postcount=414

What did you break out the micrometers and feeler gauges?? ONLY SIEGMON :rofl:

Yeah I was chuckling at that too. Gotta appreciate a details man. :thumbsup:

After testing this morning I tore into the camera because you could hear an internal rattle. Pulled all the fasteners attaching the main circuit board to the body but it wasn't coming out easy so I abandon the quest...............there's something between the main board and the front of the camera that's lose and rattling.

We'll see how GoPro handles the issue................

Let me know if they blow you off -- I'll give you another one.

Just got my new remote controlled version that I ordered at SEMA... and I'll use that one and the other one will go to the bottom of some camera heap. :D
I also use my Contour+ 'cause it's so much more reliable (I can't ever remember all the crap on the Go-Pro etc).

There is a one-click on-off option that you can upload via firmware. Really easy once you do that. Without it, it certainly is a pain in the arse.

Thanks GW :thumbsup:

Here's the video I captured this morning and submitted to GoPro:



Audio is OK until movement creates any vibration. What doesn't make sense is I can't recall any impact since the last use that would have caused this.

After 20+ years of no radio I decided to make a radio delete plate for the dash.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-r...-rtSkLPw-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-w...-wrFGzgS-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-r...-rV3vrMQ-L.jpg

I'll use it as a magnetic bulletin board until figure out a good use for the vacant space. :D

No response from GoPro regarding the Hero2 audio failure yet. :mad:
Mounted one of the Hero HD's and went on test and tune drive.



Richened the fuel screws a couple times which improved off idle/trailing throttle response and raised the float levels an 1/8th and it's pretty close. Next phase is fine tuning the pump cams. :thumbsup:

Both Sound great, you're a wild man Siegy I love it :cheers:

Finished radio delete plate

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-m...-mZsHB4b-M.jpg

Took the car in for a formal appraisal for the insurance company today and took a couple shots with the phone cam.

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-N...NBcCr3B-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K...KJ6BLkB-XL.jpg

Car looks great! Bet its nice having it back out on the road again.

Cool video's, great looking car, even cooler story! Thanks for sharing

Looks and sounds great Sieg! What is the red light I am seeing on the new delete plate?

The car sounds great!

That's top secret :_paranoid

Yeah, but I am on the "need to know" list. I have a decoder ring and everything... I'll show it to you sometime because it is REALLY NEAT!

Oh... Oh wait... I don't recall seeing intocarss on the list.:_paranoid
"Forget I have said anything." (Obi Wan Kenobi voice, complete with hand gesture)

:rofl: :cheers:

Thanks guys! It's the coolest tinker-toy I've ever owned. :thumbsup:

Alarm indicator light.

Anyone ever been focused on one task that resulted in another?

I was working on a GPS mounting location and looked at the dash paint, next thing I know............

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-9...-9rpRkDX-L.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-K...-KnW74Fp-L.jpg

After all the sanding prep and wipe down with lacquer thinner I apply a test coat to find out we have what appears to be silicone contamination. :mad:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-5...-5CXjR52-L.jpg

Another quick-fix fail! :D

I'm using Krylon semi-gloss black, also shot a test panel to insure it wasn't the paint.

Suggestions?

Get yourself some OMNI clean.... at an automotive paint supplier.

Start wiping with clean clothes --- ONE swipe in one direction -- NEW Cloth or fold - One swipe one direction... repeat...

#1 thing in painting -- NEVER SAND before you clean.... sanding can track the contaminant into the sanding groves.

Never knew that. Thanks!!

i use alot of eastwood products. They have a good paint prep that I use alot. It cost around 10 dollars. One problem that i can think of is that some of your old paint absorbed alot of oil over the years. Its best to remove it all and start fresh. I also like their chassis black spray paint. It has that right look when it dries...like the factory satin look. I dont like krylon as their paints are thin and delicate dont last long and scratch easy. The chassis paint does not need primer. spray straight from the can....and last really long. it resist alot of chemicals....

Being interior I would suspect armor all if you are pretty sure it is silicone.
Probably the worst offender and it is likely enough someone used it in there in the lat 4 decades.
Our Painter banned the stuff from the entire shop where I worked 8 years ago.

Tell me when GW doesn't have good advice? Friggin' Jedi that one...

Thanks G-dub I owe you a another..............:question: :thumbsup:

I'll only use Armorall on things I know I'll never refinish. Silicone is a great sealant and adhesive beyond that it's taboo in my book.

I guess I am guilty of the implication that anyone could have usec Armor All on Norwood in the last 4 decades. I admit I don't recall how long you have had him.
Time does fly, I'm closer to a quarter century than 2 decades with my Camaro at this point but yet I cannot vouch for all the products used on it prior, but I can openly admit I was not as knowledgable, careful or methodical when I was 17 as I am now at 41 especially when it comes to THE car.
:cheers:

Took delivery in '90, silicone has good shelf-life............ask a mortician. :D

BUMP FOR UP DATES!! :rofl: :D :willy: :lateral:

It's 40 plus years of screwing stuff up -- learning the hard way... At some point you start to gather enough info to be really dangerous. :D :thumbsup:

Okay -- I want you to know that I went down to the shed in my pajamas and slippers - in the POURING RAIN to get you some info on the stuff I keep around the shed for PRE sanding prep! Use whatever. Note the OMNI IS VERY STRONG STUFF.... the PPG Acryli-Clean and the Eastwood Pre can be used on almost ANY paint.




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...tos/file-3.jpg




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...tos/file-4.jpg




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...tos/file-5.jpg

THe kind if education you don't get with a college degree. :thumbsup:

Thank you buddy, hopefully one of the local supply houses has OMNI MS251 :thumbsup:

The Eastwood stuff is right up my alley considering it's rattle-can. :D

Dude.... that's just soooooooo wrong.

better than fits right in...ok that was wrong.

Poor Scott :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Left himself wide open (pun intended) :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

One typo and I find out you're all from San Fran..........http://www.desmonorthwest.com/forums...smiley-027.gif

Notice that I kept my mouth shut for once

I saw that typo before I'd refreshed that page and saw the inevitable responses and immediately wanted to hide in a closet. :faint:

Off to acquired some fish-eye eliminator (hopefully it works) and get the dash back together.

Then trouble shoot the source of an apparent discharge condition the car has while driving. Situation is I'll drive the car 5-10 miles, restart once is OK, second time it starts but you can notice it's weak, third or fourth time the stater won't engage. Starter is a new Powermaster mini.

Battery is showing 12.6-7 volts so all the cells appear to be good.

I typically keep it on a float charger so right after disconnecting and testing I'll get a battery reading of 13.1-13.2v.

Cranking voltage on the new Autometer voltage gauge shows 11v.

Idling voltage 14.8-15v Alternator is new Powermaster 100 amp rated at 14.8v.

Idle with lights and heater on 14.2v on the gauge.

Since I didn't install the harnesses I'm going to check all the front harness grounds first and install grounding washers if needed.

Battery is a Kirkland about a year old with little usage.

:question: