My tank set up worked with no issues.


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It is a power steering fluid filter. Good idea that did not work. I removed the filter cartridge and left the can to keep the hoses the same.

Might of been too fine of a mesh.

Mark


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Got it, thanks! Car came out great!! Thanks for sharing!

You used 2 intercooler pumps but one intercooler radiator . The LT5 ZR1 has two intercoolers which are smaller which is why there are 2 pumps in it I would guess. With one intercooler in your car, do you use 2 pumps to increase the flow and improve cooling or to help make sure both sides have equal flow? I ask because the crate engine controller is set up for one pump, the ZL1 pump from what I can glean from the documentation.

Did you run both your pumps off the factory harness by tapping into it and adding a plug for the 2nd pump?

I added 2 nd pump because my engine makes over 900 HP. I reworked the wiring in the fuse box and up gauged the wiring to run 2 pumps.

The team that did the create engine development claim one pump is good. I used 2 like the stock ZR1.

Mark


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So do I need to make a new page on Stielow Engineering?

Apparently https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3e2d00cc94.jpg


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Approved. This should be fun to watch.

If that was an even trade for Apex I would say mark won that deal. Because nobody likes a white 69 Camaro except Charlie....... :poke::lmao:

This is very awesomesauce....

Awesome as it stands right now... please don’t paint it white :peepwall:

Curious, did you install a top of clutch switch or bypass it with a jumper to fool the controller? I didn't see any reference or pictures on it, but might have missed it, or maybe its part of the pedal system you used.

Yes I did because I needed it for the cruise control also


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Great build Mark, always raising the bar!

Do you remember how you dealt with the 40 tooth reluctor ring requirement in the T56 magnum or if you used the Super Magnum with the 40 tooth ring installed? I have read some folks using HP tuner to adjust the 12 tooth ring that comes in the T56 to make it compatible with the GMPP controllers, just curious which route you ended up going.

Can’t just change the value to 12 tooth. Slight math involved. I’ve done 4 of them now this way. I have a post on here on what to do

Not sure if this helps you but, I bought one of these for my T56 magnum

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164002086493

how difficult is it to install that?

I haven't done it yet but, it looks easy. It comes with directions but, I think they post them on their ad too.

There's some pictures in there - look forward to hearing how it goes for you. It does look easy if it's not a press fit.

Stylo?
 

why spam this with that video or am i missing something

I think it's just a joke.

Stylo = Stielow

Mark,

Now that you’ve had some time to drive

Thoughts on the qa1 shocks?

Thoughts on the stealth gear set for 9”?

Mufflers too loud?

Thanks for the feedback?

And also the clutch and stock tremec shifter - no leaks, quiet, clutch holding?

Was just browsing the thread and noticed that this car doesn't have downbars off the firewall or a full cage. Any reason you chose to go with just a roll bar? Does the DSE chassis provide adequate rigidity on its own?

I like the QA1 shock. Once I read the instructions they are easy to set up. I went with the softest valving. I forget where I had them for settings.

I have a OE Ford gear in this car. Set up by GearFX. Still loud.

The new mufflers are "Hot Rod" quite. I am still looking for something quieter, but I'm getting old and I am tired of loud cars. I have tinnitus from all the louds stuff I have done all my life. I want my hot rods to be quieter.

Mark

The Tilton street clutch works great. Smooth pick up, no rattles, good effort. I would buy it again. Nice parts.

I like the T56 Magnum stock shifter. Good throws, good effort. If you want it to feel like a gun bolt, take the trans to D&D Performance and have all the shift shoes swapped from nylon to brass! Feels great. You get some gear shift buzz but very solid feeling.

Mark,

Since you went away from the JRI’s I’m curious how the new setup is working out along with the mufflers.

First off, my roll bar is not legal for any type of racing. It is a solid anchor point for the shoulder belts for the 5/6 point harness.

I think the DSE subframe and the DSE sub frame connectors give the car a good feel and has been stiff enough for everything I do. The "Cage" is good enough to find the body if I crash it hard. I'm fairly sure if I have a big crash in one of these cars it will not be good.

If you are worried about safety buy a new car. Way safer. I have crashed both, and a new Camaro is way better in a crash than a 1969 Camaro.

Not a Camaro but you get the idea.





Mark

Have you tried Magnaflow mufflers? They are pretty tame in my opinion. Coming from a young guy.

Thanks Mark - not really concerned about it as a safety issue, mostly just interested in the improvement in performance/chassis rigidity. I noticed that a few of your more recent builds seem to skip a full cage and instead have just a roll bar. Was curious if the full cage cars feel better on track.

Hi Mark,

Quick question, the additional switch you added to the clutch pedal, is that just like a brake light switch? I'm looking to add this to mine as well.

Thanks!

John

That’s exactly a brake light switch. I also added this switch to my clutch in my 69 Camaro because I installed a push button start and didn’t want the car to start in gear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-B...-127632-2357-0

The stock pedals have a clutch safety switch, but they look for the clutch all the way depressed to start. This one is set up as the top of clutch switch which senses when you just start to get the clutch moving down, not disengaged yet. What's not clear to me is what brakelight switch he used since the ECM is looking for an open signal for top of clutch to defuel, and most brakelight switches are normally open and actuation closes the circuit. Maybe he used a relay to change the signal to the ECM. One switch I found that will work is ACDELCO D862C, it has 2 sets of contacts, one for normally open and one for normally closed. From the installation instructions:

The calibration included in the ECM is for a manual transmission application. The pair of wires labeled top of travel clutch switch must be wired used. This should not be used as a bottom of travel clutch switch or neutral safety clutch switch - do not use as a switch to prevent starter engagement without fully depressing the clutch. The top of clutch switch is used as in input to the ECM to briefly disable fuel when the clutch is depressed, which helps decelerate the engine and makes upshifting easier and quicker. A compatible clutch switch will have two pins which provide a closed circuit when the clutch pedal is fully released and an open circuit as soon as the clutch pedal is partially depressed.

I did not know that the ECM for the LT5 required that signal. I thought Mark was using that clutch switch just for the Dakota Digital cruise control to be able to disengage cruise mode when depressed.

I spoke to Dakota Digital today and they said all I need is another brake switch.

I'm sure Mark will chime in and let us know how he got that signal the LT5 ECM required.

The LT4 and LT5 have a top of travel input in the harness. I used an older style brake switch that have two sets of contacts. One sets of normally open and one set normally closed. I think it was from a 2nd gen Camaro with cruise.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Moto...a-843401827852

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...caAoUdEALw_wcB

Is the OEM throwout bearing used or the Tilton? I'm pretty skeptical on non-OE/non-preloaded TOB's but Tilton swears by their part.

It is the production Camaro throw out bearing!

Works great!


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What exactly does the input do?

Andrew