The top of clutch switch is used as in input to the ECM to briefly disable fuel when the clutch is depressed, which helps decelerate the engine and makes upshifting easier and quicker.

Gen4 LS F-body or??? That's what I've been using with good results.

Yes LS 4th Gen. Stock. Works good.


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Intercooler pumps
 

What does the c7 ZR1 intercooler pumps flow compared to others?

here's a chart comparing a few including the ZR1

https://fiinterchillers.com/tech_art...sting-results/

Are you running borla or black heart mufflers?

Yes LS 4th Gen. Stock. Works good.

Black Heart.


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Mark, I am running the blackheart mufflers on my 68 (Holleys entire system for the Quadralink). I am getting an annoying exhaust drone from about 2-2400 rpm no matter what speed/gear. Are you getting the same?

Alloy Diff Centre
 

Phenomenal build thread Mark!
I spent a good couple of hours going through it.
I have a question regarding your experience with alloy housings. I’m building a Pro Touring 1967 Fairlane hardtop, it’ll weigh around 3200lbs, have around 600hp and run a 6-speed, plus a pretty decent tire (315/30R18) on the back. Predominantly an occasional weekend toy with probably 3-4 track days (circuit) a year.
Strange talk about reduced life on the gears due to housing flex. Strange Engineering also did not recommend their alloy centre due to the weight – yet I’ve seen a host of cars running alloy centres. You’ve used them and have beat on them pretty hard – what’s been your experience?
Thanks in advance
Craig P

Over on YouTube, Lawrence LT Tolman has a how to video on this very subject.


The video is from Feb 17,2022, titled “ using SCIENCE to ELIMINATE exhaust drone: I finally did it!.

Hope it helps.

Thanks for reposting this. It’s hard for me to navigate websites on my phone.

Jimbo

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I got a question on ECM holders. The big one is for the E99 ECM and the smaller one is for the FICM. Stock 2019 ZR1 parts


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Can you provide some information on the oil tank modification? Specifically for the expanded area done to add volume - is it completely open inside the tank where the extension was made or does it have any addition baffling to help reduce the sloshing around and keep the outlet hole submerged?

Hey mark little out of subject question here, On your camaro "gunner" did you make that center cupholder or where did you find it? I feel that cupholders are essential for these pro-touring cars. thanks.

It is a 2 gallon Peterson tank with added volume. The expansion keeps the cylinder of the Paterson tank to help oil control. The extra volume is main for extra oil so oil level is less sensitive. I check is with a dip stick so the extra oil is extra insurance the engine won’t get starved for oil.

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Matt at Sled Alley made the cup holders. One off sheet metal deal


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What electrical body harness did you use or did you make a custom complete body harness like your last build?

Looks like a ProVent 100. The 200 may have been a bit large for the location, it's pretty big. I am curious how the smaller one is working out.

I have used it on 3 builds now and it works great. Be aware there are two part numbers on how they vent. Make sure you get the correct one. I would need to do some digging to find the correct part number. The last one I purchased was a Mann ProVent 100 SKU 3931070793 Jan 2019. I think that was the correct one.

Don't blame me if that is the wrong one.

Good luck

Mark

Thanks, I was trying to figure out how to fit a 200 in mine and it's a challenge, the 100 is a much easier fit. If you find anything in your 'spare' time on the difference between the two provent 100 options I'd be very interested will use the part number you listed otherwise.

On edit - after some quick research - the differences are one version has a bypass which is the part number ending in 3. The part number ending in 2 has a pressure relief valve. Based on the naming I would guess the bypass routes excess through the outlet which most would route to the air intake tube, and the pressure relief valve vents excess externally. The version version ending in 2 is called 'off road' probably due to the routing of the relief valve gasses.

So the ProVent 100 takes care of the oil tank vapors - how do/did you manage the valve cover outlets for vapors?

Mark, a lot of people with supercharged motors run hydro boost setups or now the huge electric masters. You look to be using the DSE booster and master setup. How do you make that work with all of the track driving you do and having vacuum for the brakes? The reason I ask is I don't want to use a hydro boost or an electric master on my future procharger setup. Want to stick with my DSE setup.

I have run normal brake boosters on all my projects. I have never had an issue, but I’m not a left foot braker. If you like to drive 2 footed, one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake pedal I could see a use case where you could deplete the vacuum in the booster.

I have driven turbo cars and have left foot braked. You can deplete the vacuum in the booster very easily.

I have never used or driven a vehicle with a ProCharger. My applications have been positive displacement blowers. When you drop throttle they immediately build vacuum. I also have not run wild camshafts that do build vacuum at idle.

Also it depends on if you are DI or PFI.

Sorry for the long reply. So the short answer is it depends on your set up.

On a side note I have driven hydraulic brake boosters on police cars on track. The brake feel was poor but that was 10 years ago.

Mark


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You brought up the PCV topic in the Hobbs camaro build but I didn't want to ask the question about your system on the LT5 there and corrupt that build conversation, so I'll ask it here. Other than the vent on your oil tank on that build, what did you do if anything to modify the stock PCV system on this engine? And for the oil tank, did you use the air inlet tube as a source of clean air for that side?

Just power read through the entire thread over two days!

Mark - such an awesome build with tremendous attention to detail! You and Matt at Sled Alley have skills and knowledge I can only dream to achieve.

I appreciate the fact that you share so many details and information regarding your builds. I have taken many ideas from this thread alone and hope to apply them to my build. Thank you for sharing it with us.

How many miles have you been able to log on it? Any track time to test all the cooling improvements?

Sorry for the delayed reply. I will say "This is what has worked for me". Not saying it is the only way to go but so far it has worked well.

After a few iterations on dry sump tanks we landed on the system that is on Apex.

A modified Peterson tank that tucks into the cowl of the car, it hold about 10 quarts of oil. I vent out of the valve covers with 2 -8AN lines that tee together to a -10 AN line. That vent line goes to the top of the dry sump tank. There is a little effort inside of the tank to get most of the oil out of the air.

A -10 AN vent line then leaves the dry sump tank to a air oil separator. I like the Mann and Hummel ones. The Mann and Hummel air oil separator has a nice filter in it.

https://crossfilters.com/products/ma...40192589627582

I connect a drain line from the bottom of the air oil separator to return and oil back to the dry sump tank. The drain line has a very low pressure check valve in it. The line need to return to the dry sump tank below the running oil level. The "Clean Air" vent line then connects to the inlet air tub where it is vented to atmosphere, but can suck in clean filtered air. The vent line should go in the air tube after the MAF sensor.

I have done this set up on 3 cars now. If you can keep the oil temp down to about 270F while running on track I have had no issue. Engine bay is clean and dry.

I know it is a bit of messing around, but so far it has worked great with zero oil pressure drop outs and no oil going into the engine.

On LS engines the stock LS9 style valve covers have baffles and I think the LTs do also. We drill out the old 3/8 inch vent nipples and add a -8 AN nipple. This 900 - 1000 HP engine need a way to breath. If you don't get the vent large enough we have blow out rear main seals (Not good)(Big Fire). Also don't delete the factory PVC vent system. Air needs to move through the engine to get moister out.

A lot of air oil separators need to be drain manually, I don't like that. I like the Mann and Hummel's or similar that have previsions to drain back to he oil tank or pan. You don't need to remember to drain them.

Oil and or a lot of oil vapors that get into your intake will lead to preignition issue if it gets out of control. It is best to keep it under control.

Mark

While I'm not Mark, GM does use an auxiliary electric vacuum pump on the ATS-V to supplement vacuum for the brake booster when the engine is under boost... it works great. There's a vacuum sensor right at the inlet of the brake booster and the ECM will cycle the auxiliary electric pump as needed if the brake booster vacuum drops while the engine is under boost, something which can happen if you're a heavy left foot braker.

The factory electric vacuum pump on the ATS-V is made by Hella, and they're obviously OEM quality and reliable. Hella makes several vacuum pumps with different volumes and duty cycles; many hybrid cars use them as well as the sole source of brake booster vacuum when the car is running in straight EV mode.

The ones I've had very good luck with is Hella # 8TG-012-377-701, it's one of the heavier duty, higher volume, higher duty cycle pumps for hybrids and the like. The one GM used on the ATS-V is a much lower volume, lower duty cycle unit only meant to supplant engine vacuum very occasionally, and the OEM ECM has some logic to limit the vacuum pump duty cycle to prevent overheating it. I've used the larger, higher duty cycle 8TG-012-377-701 on both turbo cars and cars with big cams and poor idle vacuum and also on a couple of rock crawlers where guys didn't want to use a hydroboost but also where losing vacuum to their power brakes would be a real problem if the engine died while all crossed up on some rocks. They pull vacuum very quickly, are quiet while doing so, and are very reliable.

Great info. I don't want to hijack Mark's LT5 thread which I kinda did. It might be worth its own thread under brakes on how it works, wired, what to use, etc. Sounds like an excellent option for us boosted guys.

So where is Apex now?

Des Moines, Iowa.


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Charleys buddy?