:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

In my own redneck way I might have isolated the starter issue. While adjusting the valves tonight with a remote start switch I'd get 3-4 contacts and nothing, let it cool down and repeat with same results. Must have abused the solenoid during the firing debacle. :(

:theresa: :theresa: :theresa:

:_party:

Just for you GW:

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-R...-RbKbrZB-L.jpg

SWEET!!!


Is it in yet?




:thumbsup:

That's the bad one silly. After running the valves last night I went to take a test drive in today's perfect weather and it wouldn't fire. :mad: So that starter wasn't doing any good in the car. :D New solenoid is on order.........

Well that one looks brand new....


Who screws up a perfectly good, brand new, starter solenoid??



SMH


Seriously -- I hope it's as simple as that. I like simple.

Who - Some idiot that puts 5+ years of wear on his starter trying to fire an engine with a bad distributor ground. That's who. :P

At least that's the ASSumption I'm operating under.........$27 for the solenoid isn't the end of the world.

Holy Hell I'm scared

Beats being jealous.............:unibrow:

Done deal and it works!

Enjoying the weather over there? :D

About time :rolleyes:

Glad you got it fixed Now take Tucker for a cruz!!

Nothing beats a good hurricane and horizontal rain...

Makes me feel at home. :(

This starter reminds me of when I re-did the fuel tank on the Nomad... and figured as long as I was there I'd swap out the fuel pump relay for a new one... the old one had been in there for maybe 5 years... Fired it up - drove to meet Rudy for breakfast before the GoodGuys show. Turned it off - had breakfast - came out -- nothing - no pressure - no sound. Jumped the fuel pump and she ran just fine...so the brand new relay was removed and the old one fished from the garbage and re-installed - it's been in there ever since.

I've been watching the golf tourney and it's bad...........enough to cancel the first round and restart today.

Sea's don't look friendly either..........sorry as that's probably screwing up the certification dive. :willy:

Always a possibility with electronics.........simplifies the troubleshooting. :D

In my case it was probably excessive use even though I was trying not to cook it. There were changes to the replacement solenoid. Switch terminal was beefier and brass vs. plated, 2 shims were included and instructions said use them (not optional), and the spring was black oxide coated vs. zinc.

No - she's got two more dives today off the boat... and she'll be a certified fish.

We got two dives in yesterday... so she's finished her skills. The little bay right here isn't bad and has some protection from two reefs. Although yesterdays viz was horrible.

I have never been anywhere that the wind blew 24 hours a day for days! This has blown as hard at night as it has during the day for like 4 days now without ANY change in sound or furry. :wow:

Sounds like changes for the better. Maybe they had enough failures that it prompted them to make upgrades. Gotta like that they are proactive in that regard.

Seeing how it is 7 degrees here and clean roads are months away, and add in the mountain of work I will do before I can enjoy my car... it is with immense envy I wish youHappy Motoring!:thumbsup:

Glad to hear it didn't kill the diving! :thumbsup:

The golf was humorous as the flag sticks looked like they were hooked up with a Marlin most the time. Players were just shaking their heads........at least the ones with a sense of humor. :D

If it's any consolation: http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick...01769256591797
Garage time is here too! One to two hour windows of opportunity about 5 times a month for the next 3 months is my guess. :thumbsup:

I'd guess they were seeing issues..........cause if it ain't broke why fix it?

MID 60's + here and sunny all day long :lol:

So you're putting on the thong and partying at the beach?

http://swimmingtrunksformen.net/wp-c...g-Swimwear.jpg

:woot:

Holy hell has the quality of images in this thread degraded.:(

How exactly does someone un-see something like that?:faint:
:cheers:

Who's dog is that? I'm scared...

Let the Ford guy fix it. :D

Fords have the solenoid on the inner fender.:thumbsup: Just sayin

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps05743d2b.jpg

Making something simple complicated doesn't make it faster. :D

You win Sieggy you win lol

You must have been at the beach all day yesterday? :unibrow:

Good point.

You could have replaced 50 posts and 20 days of R&D with a screwdriver across the terminals.:rofl:

http://france.worldcupblog.org/files...by-300x300.jpg

a picture is worth 50 posts...........

And you must of been spying on me

OK, back to car stuff. :D

Starter works, valves readjusted again as setting them from zero lash (just to the tension the pushrod wouldn't turn) and pre-loading a 1/2 turn was resulting in a couple rattlers. Re-adjusted checking the previous pre-load when backing them off and reset them with 5/8 pre-load which quieted them down but still detect a little valve train clatter so I'll probably give them another 1/8 turn for a total of 3/4.

After the valves I pulled the card to check transfer slot exposure which is supposed to be .025" according to the Holley tech. My Demon was spec'd at .020". As suspected due to flat condition right off idle, the transfer slots were not exposed which probably happened during the break in when my helper dialed them open and didn't note the turns in.

I fire the motor with the slots set at .025" and fuel screws at a rich 1.75 turns out, and the idle bypass circuit in the mid position approx. 2.5 turns out from open. When up to temp the idle speed was 2,200, closing the idle bypass circuit lowered it to 2,100 rpm.

I tried leaning and richening the fuel screws to see if they would have any impact on idle speed adjustment via the bypass valve but no luck. I backed off the throttle idle screws 5/8 of a turn and obtained 1K rpm but from the top of the venturi's it looks like the transfer slots are close to zero exposure again. A quick test drive indicated it was still a little flat when the clutch fulling engaged but it was an improvement from previous settings.

Looks like the only way I'm going to get some transfer slot exposure and the idle speed around 900-1,000 is by backing off the 16* initial timing and setting idle speed with initial timing to a point that allows some idle speed adjustment via the carb circuits.

Then make up the loss of initial timing with more total mechanical and quicker ramp up via lighter springs.

Does it sound like I'm on the right track?

Long answer - yes


Short answer - yes


Be careful trying to quiet down the valve train... you don't want to preload those hydraulic lifters too much. Half a turn on ARP studs equals .030" and a full turn should be .060"

Can't remember - did you go with flat tappet cam? What's different? Rocker arms? Rollers?

Flat tappet same cam specs reground, existing rockers - Comp Cam Magnums stamped roller tip 1.5 ratio, existing push rods, new Sealed Power HT817R lifters.

The heads didn't have studs, I installed Comp Cam 45022's that are 3/8-24, previous heads had 24 pitch thread also.

Don't want to cross the line, that's why I started at 1/2 turn which appeared to be what the shop had them set at. When that didn't quiet what sounds like one or two lifters when decelerating in the 2,000 to 1,000 rpm range I double checked my work and added an 1/8 turn. I only did a short trip around the neighborhood so a longer drive is in order.:D

The typical recommended pre-load is 1/2-3/4, but you can find recommendations of up to 1+ and if it's on the internet it's true. :D

Yeah ---- I'd be waiting for Jer to chime in and see what he thinks...

I'm not a lifter guy... and run hydraulic rollers -- but I also have lifter noise in my hot rod motors... but it doesn't bother me... cause I also have injectors clicking etc. That's why I love loud exhaust!


LOL

It's times like this I wish I had mechanical lifters. :D

The exhaust isn't quiet and it does have a quiet gear drive........... :P

I go zero lash then 1/2-1 turn.. (some guys only go 1/2 turn) I adj intake when exhaust starts opening and exhaust when Int starts to close

IMOHO once the cam is broke in, I like to go over it again with the engine running, I have a cut valve cover to stop from making a total mess

Back off the rocker nut until you here a clicking and then tighten down until the clicking just stops then go 1/2- 1 turn

This can explain it better then I can and saves me from a lot of typing ;)


http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...raulic_lifters

http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54...c/tappets.html

then another 1/8 turn while tightening your lock allen.....are you positive it isnt a header leak? triple check. that one gets everyone.

Thanks Jerry :thumbsup:

I ran them lifter heading down adjust the adjacent valve.

The more I thought about it adjusting while running made sense. I could take the plasma cutter to the old set of valve covers.

Appreciate the input.

NO! But I did think about the possibility more than once. :D It sounds too mechanical to me and during low rpm during decel though they sound a little lose at initial start-up. Lower oil pressure levels in both conditions.

You always come up with the logically obvious! Obviously a lot of experience. I will double check though. :thumbsup:

MAKE SURE YOUR ROCKERS AREN'T HITTING THE VALVE COVER I ran the same VC's you are and some of my rockers were hitting