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With a bore of 4.300x4.375 stroke it makes a 508. You can bore the existing sleeves just like any block. If they end up unservicable, they are replaceable. I'm not going to make an undersquare engine. It will be 4.280 x4.250. I thought about doing an odd ball engine just to be rare, but it adds stress to the pistons limits the rpm potential a Hair.....
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Nice! Do you have a target for top useable RPM?
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kick azz... is all that comes to mind right now!:unibrow:
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Awesome Todd! Man those aluminum BBCs are nice :D .
Any particular reason you went with the ZL-1 block over a Brodix, Dart, etc? John |
There were a few factors. Weight, GM Engineering, and last but certainly not least, history. The 540 idea came and went pretty quickly. I had to be a little economical. This allows me to reuse my pistons, carb, clutch, and fuel system. Going 540 would have added 50 lbs even in aluminum and my components just aren't ideal. This should provide all the power I need to do what I intend. Pretty sure I found the only resale block for sale in the US. It hasn't been used but I saved about $900 over getting it at the parts counter.
The usable RPM won't change to much from the old motor. My exact words to him were, "This car is 50% race and 50% street" I don't want to give up my highway cruising drivability but want it to rev higher. I'd say it will have usable power from 2500-6500. Redline should be in the mid to high 6k.....The cam is still up in the air. |
Interesting Todd... so how do they get there?
Going to have to rename you now -- "Thumper" fits better... |
That looks nice, real nice! for a big block... just had to drop that. Seriously that block is going to make a bad ass power plant.
Very cool on the ZL-1. What's the time frame? All the parts ready to go should be quick I hope. The old school speed shop looks like a great choice. You get a A+ on your homework project so far..... |
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so what am I missing?? |
Targeting a February completion. All the parts still need ordered but will happen very soon.
I don't know Greg, I used an online calculator! |
Just a question but did you have the oil filter bypass blocked off? I had the same thing happen except my gear failed due to poor engagement coupled with MSD's crappy gear. I haven't put enough miles on mine since to know what the filter looks like but since I have the bypass plugged and everything is forced through the filter I'm crossing my fingers that no major damage was done. You're making me doubt that now :_paranoid
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No it wasn't. The new motor will have it plugged!:unibrow:
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Bore Area: Pi X 4.300 X 4.300 / 4 = 14.522 sq. in. Displacement/cylinder: 4.375 X 14.522 = 63.534 cu. in. Total Displacement: 8 X 63.534 = 508 cu. in. |
That is going to be a killer motor, should really help loosing the extra weight on the track.:thumbsup:
Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.) [email protected] 1-262-347-9741 |
Way to go Todd!:thumbsup: I am looking forward to this chapter and can't wait to see a final parts list and then some numbers from the dyno!:cheers:
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Yep, I run a moroso racing filter anyway. You should be good to go. My filter caught a ton of it, unfortunately I didn't know I had a problem until it was to late anyway.
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I have read that "normal" store bought filters can't deal with the pressures a good motor will make - say 70 lbs... and they can pop or blow... so running a "Race" style filter is smart insurance.
I run a cleanable stainless steel screen O'ringed type filter with magnets internally and remote mounted.... it filters 100% of the oil. However, all of that - won't save a motor that is determined to grind itself to death... But it sure SHOWS YOU that is happening!!! LOL |
Very cool motor Todd, really like the idea of shedding the BBC weight off the front with the alum block.
Have you thought about the spring rates having to be changed on the front end? And have you thought about upgrading to EFI at some point? |
Luckily Prodigy accidentally put small block/lsx springs in the front anyway. I was actually contemplating changing to big block springs before I pulled the motor. Although after my last autocross I was really happy with it as is. I'm sure my coil overs will need adjusted so I should be in good shape chassis wise.
As far as injection goes, I don't have any immediate or future plans. I'd need to start over from tank to engine on my fuel system. I feel the carb is easier to deal with in a racing enviroment. It's easier to keep two bowls full than 60psi behind every injector ALL the time. Plus, I just chapped my wallet anyway! Is there a group for this sickness? |
This site is the group for that. We all share the same affliction! Thats going to be a sweet engine, plenty of power and a weight savings. This car just keeps getting better all the time !
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Very cool Todd. Glad to see things going well for you with the engine.
That shop looks very clean and orderly, which usually means a good/reputable shop. I am looking forward to the build and the dyno numbers. That is going to be an ass-kicking engine. Very nice my friend!!!!:cheers: :thumbsup: :cheers: |
That sounds like a kick ass package, Todd! :thumbsup:
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Trying to think of a some new names for your screen name and the car now --
Alumaback BBalumaC ZL1AutoX Beotch Happy for you man----good find. Hope your wife is still going to have a good Christmas after these purchases. When you guys are gonna dyno, if you want some company, let me know. It's kinda like a birth of a child--it's nice to hear them scream for the first time--you know they are alive. Doug |
Don't give up your day job. :rofl: I'll definitely let you know. It should be mid February or so.:thumbsup:
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Were you experiencing any push at track days with the iron block? |
My road course experience was so limited, but the car seemed really good. It will push on the autocross but I'm in the middle of a rear sway bar as well. Two different animals for sure. That's the main reason I got an adjustable rear bar. I really didn't go aluminum to shed the weight, it's just a nice side effect. I just felt it made more sense to drop the coin on a special block instead of a run of the mill 454 block. The machining cost is no different, it's simply the cost of the new block minus the pennies I get for the old one. It will end up making alot of sense. To be honest, the engine wasn't on the cars level anyway. I never would've picked that set up today. I wasn't planning on spending this much money on the car. I also didn't have plans to race it much at the time. It's one giant flippin snow ball. I keep telling myself it's going to stop someday. :_paranoid I've done a ton of research lately, pick my brain anytime.
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I'm lovin' all of this Todd... Merry Christmas to yourself, by the way! LOL
Someone asked me the other day about something I'd bought... I told them... "I'm not broke - but I'm certainly bent"! |
Maybe someday that one big flipin snowball will roll into a LSX motor huh?
:D |
All aluminum 500cid big block...do you really have to say any more.
nice choice |
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Here's how they sounded back in '69. http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...h_b2bbf713.jpg |
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it would have been much smarter ($cheaper$) for him to go that route...MUCH cheaper!;) but no where near as cool... |
Maybe Erics right, I should buy 3 of Franks LS3's and have a couple spares in the trailer when I race. :goofy: I called Schwartz Machine which manufactured the block. To my surprise Bob Cross from GM racing called me back and is sending me a care package. Turns out he is responsible for bringing the ZL-1 block back and actually found the forms in a warehouse the size of and airport hanger. http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_r...ckBirthday.pdf My take was it was all the info from the endurance tests and specs they used on the ZL-1 from there 50 hour endurance test in the article.. Should be interesting. Pretty cool having a GM racing engineers phone number. :unibrow: It's just not quite as simple building this engine. The aluminum block brings in some new variables. For instance the main bolts must be torqued in a similar sequence to an intake but the inner and out bolts have a different torque spec. Also, the bearing clearances are different due to more swelling. It has a steel billet cap and aluminum top half. I could dry sump this block but that just isn't in the cards. Here is the only document that came with the block. Pretty cool stuff....
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...eSpecSheet.jpg |
That is pretty cool Todd. Can't wait to see the results, as always with what you try to achieve. I saw the price on that though...:faint:
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I think you should think a bit more about a dry sump and not right off that idea so quick.... it's only money.
Super cool on the Gm contact. |
Christmas came early for Todd!!:cheers:
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So no LS9?.............................................. ....................:lol:
j/k......it's going to be bitchin'!! :thumbsup: An all aluminum BBC is top shelf in my mind! Rember the Red Witch.....yeah, pretty bad ass!! :yes: Queston, what do you think it will weigh? And what savings over the last iron block build? And what does this compare to an AL headed SBC and an all AL LSx build? |
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LOL |
According to GM specs there is a 150 lb difference between a Gen VI 454 block and the ZL-1 block. That's pretty significant. I'm pretty sure it puts me within 100 lbs of an LSX and should be comparable to a small block with aluminum heads. EVERYTHING under the hood is aluminum as well. I guess I should look into the dry sump option a little more. I already have plans for a road race pan, windage tray, and scraper. Keep in mind that I also have a 3qt accumulator. I wasn't having oil pump pickup problems with my street strip pan and accumulator that I know of..... I've got to cut myself off somewhere. :unibrow:
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Damn dude.... Your car just keeps getting more and more cool. I liked the car before, but this makes it just nuts.
Oh, and I'd go with the guys on the dry sump setup. Or are you saving that for a reason to take the car apart again in the future? Anything not to be "done", huh? lol.... They're never done. |
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