That sounds like quite a sharp tool of a friend.

He's a good dude just knows more about BBQ than beer or motors. At least he knows BBQ . :popcorn2:

I didn't know Bryan bought a used junk motor... :peepwall:

I said he knew BBQ . Not that he claimed he knew BBQ.:hitaxeonthehead:

You have to love
 

getting one step closer. What are you running for a clutch?

:underchair:

Either a Findanzia 14lb or Ram 20lbs AL flywheel and a McLeod RST. I already have the clutch set up, one of each flywheel and a quicktime bell. I'm going to do some measuring to see what TO bearing would work.

These LS builds are never simple...

:repost:

14 lb. Done.

14 huh? :stirthepot: :snapout:

http://www.google.com/search?q=fidan...s&ie=&oe=&rlz=

:lol: :lol:

^^ :headspin: :D

Hmm

Maybe a quick check of their website?

http://www.fidanza.com/ItemDetails.a...&eid=70&mkid=6

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbb9d4d51.jpg

PRODUCT INFORMATION FOR YOUR 58-70 FORD ALL


ALUMINUM #: 186541
WEIGHT: 14lbs
STEEL #:
PLATE #: 221171
NOTE: external balance weights are included in the hardware kit supplied with the flywheel, includes 11" & 11.5" 3 finger and 11" diaphragm clutch patterns
DESCRIPTION: A Fidanza flywheel can mate with any type of clutch material, including organic, kevlar, ceramic, metallic and sintered iron. We attach the friction surface with military grade aerospace fasteners. The ring gears are made from 1050 steel and are heat treated for durability. The gears are heated then pressed on and secured with grade 8 button screws. We were the first to use a stepped dowel system in most of our flywheel applications. This doweling method ensures that once the pressure plate is installed the dowels cannot be removed because they become locked into place. No chromemoly can compete with the awesome serviceability, strength and superior design of Fidanza's aluminum flywheels. If there was a better material out there, we would be using it.
Image may not be o

:topic: :innocent: :thankyou:

You do realize which thread you are in?

Opps guess your google search skills need some refining, like picking you hockey team!! :stirthepot: :welcome3: :peepwall:

Rob nice trans by the way! So have you ordered wheels yet??

Course I do Jr. That's why I posted those funny little icons. We're all (those that posted) old friends here. With this crew you gotts be able to dish it out as well as take it. That's part of the fun! :thumbsup:

I've actually owend a 13lb Fidanza. Never knew they made a 14, but you learn something every day.

It's ok I spelled Fidanza incorrectly :underchair:

:secret: :_paranoid :secret: Rick did you make that trip to MI yet?

Next Saturday!!! :excited: :hapdance: :excited: :hapdance: :excited: :hapdance:

Build thread starts when the trailer is hooked up!? :D

Woodward make some really nice steering joints. Luckily I know somebody with welding talent to weld the ends in the CroMol shaft so I can wheel it with confidence. :D

Notice how sleek the Woodward shafts are compared to the typical Borgenson stuff. A small thing but they are not only functional but Elegant in their design.


http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6233f751.jpg

Well ain't you fancy.

I know you're already shopping for them....:mock:

Never weld a steering shaft....


I think I read why somewhere but damned if I can remember.


Please do some research before doing that.

Read page #8 of the Woodward catalog.....

I have

So how then does one install the splined plug ends into a steering shaft? One of us is reading something different. :headscratch: I think it is you. :action-smiley-027: Of course I always think I'm right until somebody slaps some sense into me. :bitchslap: :bitchslap: It is a good topic for discussion.:cheers:

http://woodwardsteering.com/images/s...l%20joints.pdf

Double-splined U-joints:
In all but entry-level classes, the time-honored practice of welding
universal joints directly to the steering tubing is gradually being
phased out. ST201 weld-in splined stubs allow the use of double-splined,
completely removable u-joints. The stubs are solid, and unlike a splined
piece of tubing they cannot be crushed by the set screws. The slight extra
cost of stubs and double-splined joints is almost insignificant compared
with the time and effort which must otherwise be invested in welding
u-joints, removing welded u-joints with a torch or hand grinder, or trying
to modify a steering shaft whose joints have been welded.
U-joints can undergo distortion if they are heat-soaked during a
time-consuming welding process, and excessive heat will draw the temper
of the needle bearings. Weld-in stubs contain no moving parts and
are virtually immune to damage other than spatter. A guide to welding
these parts appears on page 8.

Welding U-joints and Stubs to Steering Shafts
While it has become obvious over many years that universal joints can be welded to shafts with a high degree of reliability, some procedures
are detrimental to the u-joint and must be avoided. Plug or rosette welds on universal joints are virtually guaranteed to shorten the life of the bearings
from both direct heat and the distortion resulting from weld contraction in proximity to the bearing bores. Even if the bearings are removed first,
this distortion will cause enough ovality and misalignment to damage both the bearings and the trunnion journals when reinstalling. In any case,
the cross section of a circumferential weld joint is comfortably larger than that of a tubular steering shaft, and any additional welding in the form of
plugs or rosettes would be entirely superfluous.
In general, any welding procedure which consumes enough time to discolor the ears of the u-joint should be assumed to have drawn the temper
of the bearings. This does not necessarily disqualify the TIG process, but TIG does tend to be fairly slow. To avoid heat-soaking the joint when
TIG welding, use a high-strength, non-cracking filler rod such as 309 stainless and keep the cross-section small. The most practical method is MIG,
as a comfortably large weld can be made in a few seconds. ER80S-D2 wire using C-25 shielding gas will give excellent results for both strength and
appearance.
The obvious disadvantage of any welding is, of course, that once you’ve welded the u-joints they cannot be removed without resorting to a
torch, saw, or angle grinder. A mechanical connection, on the other hand, carries the great convenience of being removable for inspection or replacement.
Welding splined stubs into the steering tube is no more work than welding u-joints directly to it. However, by confining the welding to the
tube, potential heat damage to the u-joint bearings is eliminated. A full-penetration circumferential weld of the stub to the tube will transmit steering
torque as effectively as the tube itself, and is not difficult.
With a weld-in stub, plug or rosette welds can be added if desired. If so,
use two; these should be as directly opposite each other as possible to equalize
the inevitable distortion. The pilot of the splined stub is made a few thousandths
oversize to ensure a tight fit in the expected ID of a .120 wall tube. File the pilot
if necessary until it fits the tube snugly. A heavy driven fit is unnecessary and
will restrain the weld joint. Leave a 1/8” gap at the root of the weld to ensure
penetration. For the circumferential weld, a couple of hot MIG passes (use a rolling
fixture if you can) will get the job done before any significant distortion can set in.
Although a steering shaft is not a high-speed rotating assembly, straightness
is still a practical goal. If you prefer TIG welding, excellent results will be
obtained using 309 stainless steel filler rod as above. However, keep in mind that
TIG is relatively slow; the slower the welding process, the more your finished
job is likely to deviate from straight. Postheat to a faint red and let cool in air
(Note: don’t postheat a universal joint).

The plug ends are okay to weld --- it's the knuckles that you don't weld...
and that's what the picture you posted was of. So thought you wanted to weld them to your steering shaft.

That rug would make a lovely addition in DG's family room too :idea:

Or for your 'wheel room'?


http://www.domrep.ch/images/smilies/done.gif

I should have said a STEERING KNUCKLE not shaft --- I was thinking you wanted to weld the knuckle TO the shaft....

Aren't we glad we all agree:grouphug:

I agree that although Woodward sell a weld on U joint using one isn't the best idea. That is why after researching it I bought the weld in splined ends from Woodward.

The completed splined end shaft on mine is light and strong and makes for easy servicing of the U joints in the future....

and of course controversy and a little drama which is what my thread is usually about.:lmao:

The good thing about this forum and anybody's build thread is the chance to exchange ideas, learn from each other and point people to specialists like Woodward.

In this particular case "Knuckles" has added a new element I can use in his build threads replacing Intros which has run it's course. :headspin:

Don't feel bad GW. When I bought my ATL fuel cell I was convinced I could run a Y fitting from both duck foot pickups to my main 10an line to my pump. Of all people, DG found out that was a bad idea and sent me of to ask ATL directly. I guess he knows more about fuel delivery than motor choice.:lmao:

Now DG is free to shop for some race car u joints.

:cheers:

It will be interesting to see how your steering system all works out.

Did you get the Auzzie steering box? It's a faster ratio, but I hear it turns the opposite way around ;)

You just concentrate on trying to get that motor of yours on the dyno and get some practice laps on your home track. :warning:

I hear you have a showdown in your future. :guns:

:cheers:



Well I better take it off the back porch and hide it in the barn before he stops by and trys to nab it.

Rob, you're welcome on the fuel cell help. Would hate to have you be able to use a faulty fuel cell configuration as the reason for being a lap down.

There's only one place that thing belongs... it's called the trash bin. :bitchslap:

Zinger much? :D

Well maybe I'll start with a more detailed picture of my steering shaft.

You can see in the picture the shaft is .750" .120 wall CroMo and the ends are the Woodward 20 spline style. This style is pretty cool with a square edge on the top of each spline. This prevents the spines from splaying wach other apart. You can see in the photo below the difference between the Woodward spline and the std automotive 36 spline that is found on my rack and that I ordered for the end of my Flaming River colomn.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa6642d18.jpg

The other day I assembled my rotors. I still have to safety wire them but that is another post. Here is a picture of one of the rears. The hat is cast and acts as a brake drum for the parking brake. Yes full race junkys I plan on running a parking brake. The rotors are 14x1.10" e-coated and slotted but not drilled.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psef49e4af.jpg

Today I removed the hubs from my Speedway floater and stared installing the brakes. This is just a test fit install.

The powdercoaters coated the flanges for the brake backing plates. I started by chasing the threads with a 3/8 24 tap to remove the PC
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps374cc7c2.jpg

Next I took a flat file to the mounting face. I would prefer this to have no coating so the backing plate would mate to a machined metal surface. For not I just spot faced it to ensure it was flat. I may strip it entirely. More on that later.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psa80db8bd.jpg

On with the backing plate and parking brake assembly.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps363cb610.jpg

Now here is what I'm talking about with the powdercoat. The Wilwood caliper bracket mounts to the back of the backing plate. When you assemble it you use shims to center it on the caliper. They say to start with two .11 shims. You can see them in the picture.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps7f9262c3.jpg

Then there is another spacer between the bracket and backing plate.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps00b2e47c.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps9e30ea54.jpg

The radial mounted caliper bolts onto the bracket. You adjust the centering of the caliper with the shims. I would guess the powdercoat is already spacing the caliper .11" or more outboard so although I stared with 2 shims as Wilwood recommends I really only have 1 shim of spacing. If I need to move the caliper inboard more I'd need more shims than normal. If I need more than three I'm going to clean off the mounting face. The Powdercoat is like a hard gasket of sorts and the force on the bracket isn't going to work on the "gasket" so I'm not overly concerned about it but I may be cleaning it all off the mounting face.

Neat.

Rob puts in all that time and that's all you got? :disgusted:

Good to see your getting some work done on your car Rob. Chassis looks good.
I haven't been on here much lately with my project, Torino 10, since I have been out of work since December. Been keeping busy doing projects for others so there is no time for my stuff.

LOL the car looks great, Have always said that.

Look great Rob. what Wilwood kit did you end up going with?

BadMatt you are a Torino contributor and parts supplier. I'll take "neat" works for me. :D

I was luck enough to have Mike H and Tarrant from Wilwood work with me on putting together a kit. Up front are W6A 6 piston calipers with the dynamic floating style rotors and out back is a kit they sell for the Speedway floater rear end 4 piston Billet Narrow superlite calipers with the integrated crossover. Rotors front and rear are 14" the fronts are 1.25" rear 1.1". On Mikes advice since I plan on flogging it hard the rotors are slotted but not drilled.

I'm going to post some more details on building the rotors and the brakes overall when the wheels arrive.:ups:

Yea I saw your post on the fathers day gift. I hope you get things squared away soon and can get back to work on your project. The world needs a V10 Torino. :thumbsup:

I sat and did nothing on mine from 09 until last year because I was feeling a little wonky about the future.