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The jackstand army.... :(
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Nice write up there Rob, with Bret not posting as much we need some more detailed post like yours! Oh I don't remember you posting about all this powder coating.
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How about a post on getting to this point and what a floater really is. Just remember with a Floater like my Speedway or a Howe you need to make sure your wheel centers are bored enough to clear the large hub. I've heard of people having issues with wheel builders over this. Not in my case my wheels are coming from one of the best in the race wheel bussiness :unibrow: but I have heard about it happening to others. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...pse80c8b78.jpg First. a lot of people talk about floaters and why one floater is better than another but you never really see a good technical write up. No chance of that happening from me either but I will give a little info on the Speedway Mod Lite floater I have and what I think something like a GMR is.:underchair: A floater has a dedicated hub outboard supported by bearings on the housing that is independent of the axle itself. The advantage to this is you can easily service the bearings and add some tension to them as they break in. If you have ever worked on the front of a solid axle 4x4 you have messed with something similar. The housing end doesn't have a flanged bearing end like a normal rear housing. Instead of the smaller taper bearing inside the housing end the Floater has a smooth bearing surface and a threaded end. You can see in this picture the end and the inner TImken roller bearing. If I was final assembling this I would have some good quality grease on this bearing. For now I am just dry fitting everything to check my caliper to rotor clearances and shimming. Yes you with a sharp eye will notice 3 allen headed cap screws and one grade 8 bolt holding the backing plate on. Remember this is test fit run. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps464ad084.jpg Instead of the one small bearing there is a larger inner and outer bearing that sit in the opposing tapers of the hub and a large nut preloads the bearings. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps946f5ae2.jpg Here you can see the hub. You see the tapered races on the inside of the hub. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6cc1a08e.jpg With the inner bearing on you will seat the hub over the inner and then comes the outer bearing. again if I were actually building this there would be grease everywhere. The big difference (as far as I know because I don't have one) :headscratch: with a GMR or other floater is they use a Corvette hub that has a sealed bearing similar to the one on the front (or at least that is what I believe). Somebody who has one of those floaters jump in and tell their story.:welcome3: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psef7f81b2.jpg With the outer bearing in (with grease) then comes a small thrust plate the nut and then a neat little locking device that keeps the nut from backing off. The retaining plate has a tab that fits in the keyway slot in the end of the housing and two small allen bolts are screwed into the nut positively retaining it. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps743bfe91.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps68cb0ebf.jpghttp://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...pscfccde1f.jpg |
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How about some decent quality pictures. :lol: |
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Slow down there tiger. You know full well I'm not done with my rotors yet. Rotor assembly and Safety wire will be the next episode. :cheers: Quote:
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Looking real good Rob! |
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I accomplished what I needed to do tonight and checked my caliper alignment. All the parts are back in the box and I'm the NET. I have 4 rotors to safety wire this week after work. As a note on the caliper alignment. Wilwood has a good PDF set of instructions but I have heard of two instances where the stud in the radial bracket loosened up during use. I'm pretty sure I know why this would happen.:headscratch: The Radial bracket is AL and the studs are threaded into it probably with locktite. Per the instructions Wilwood has you bolt the calipers on to check the pad depth measurement. The only nuts they give you are the self locking pinch style 12pts. Once you use these to torque down the caliper and then remove them to add or subtract shims the nut is working against the locktite on the stud. How many times have you used a jamnut to remove a stud. Think about it it is the same thing just not as obvious. The pinch nut may not have enough grip to remove the stud like a jamnut but it is trying and in some cases probably loosens the locktites grip on the stud enough to start the probalem. JMHO :cheers: |
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Wow i would like to see your reaction when you see her come up your driveway with parts? :poke: I know I would be ordering parts everyday :ups: :ups: :ups: |
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Rick, You stepped into the middle of a contest. Most of my posts directed at Dr. Jer E. Dawhg are designed to continue to 'take out' his screen(s). A keyboard would be a bonus. I'm sure the young lady in the picture has a very nice personality. Actually, I'm not sure of that. :lol: |
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I'd like this one to pull up in front of our place...no matter who was drivin it. BTW-Enjoying your updates Rob. :thumbsup: http://image.trucktrend.com/f/348921...on-Hot-Rod.jpg http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/20...-side-view.jpg http://stwot.motortrend.com/files/20...r-1024x640.jpg |
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Nice pics!
GMR floater is of similar construction except it has a sleeve that goes between the inner bearing races that limits preload so you just torque the outer nut. They also have a C6 hub version as you mentioned. |
Using proper Chevy tools
So last weekend I needed to remove my front hubs from the C6 spindles on the front of my chassis. I'm doing some upgrades:secret: basically new :censored:s before I finish mounting the brakes and the wheels arrive. Once I'm done I'll post some details since nobody wants text without photos.
When I went to remove the three allen head capscrews that secure the hub it was obvious I needed to unseat the balljoint. You can see in this after removal photo that the capscrew sits behind the balljoint stud and castle nut. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...psfc9be4ff.jpg My first thought is I have a pitman arm puller in the toolbox I have used before to remove tierods and pitman arms and drag links and other parts with a taper seat without damage. None of these those are some other pullers for pulleys and such. :twak: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps025faaf9.jpg Here is the little guy I first thought of. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps63586787.jpg Unfortunately although the throat in this guy is big enough to fit over the bottom of the spindle the sweet looking billet AL steering arm in teh previous picture is in the way.:bur2: :headscratch: Hm my little FOrd (you guys keep adding a J to Ford so the O is an emphasis reminder for spelling) pitman arm puller is doing me no good on this Bowtie balljoint excursion. I also have a spreader style which is basically like a turnbuckle that causes the two ends to expand. I forgot to snap a picture and am too lazy to go back out to the garage. Anyway that same billet steering arm is in the way (no straight line between upper and lower balljoint. I do a google search for C6 balljoint. ALL the Corvette forum guys use pickleforks :omg: :wow: No F:censored:g way I'm going medieval on this stuff :badidea: What a bunch of hacks. So I shoot an e-mail to someone who works on this stuff all the time to ask what the preferred tool is. There is surely a special Bowtie toll part # for this application. I am rewarded with the correct Chevy part # and rush down to get one. It worked like a charm and unseated the balljint in about 30 seconds. Just for everyone's future reference here is the Chevy specific tool. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps8093ed09.jpg Job done, Hubs shipped, on to the next project.:relax: :popcorn2: |
Looks like you are making good progress, along with your skills ;)
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Glad to see ONE of you Cali guys making some progress these days... |
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Now I may even have to forgive you for the Salt Lick:D :cheers: |
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I was looking thru my Salt Lick BBQ book today.... Great recipe for BBQ chicken.
BTW -- Chevy guys have many specialized tools similar to the one you used. They come in different sizes and are very effective to find the most expensive part nearest the one you meant to hit. |
Good to see you working on the car. Hopefully the commotion scared the resident raccoon out of his home. :lol:
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Soooooo is it done yet??? :poke: :poke: :smiley_smack: :smiley_smack:
So I get it now, if you start posting all this technical stuff in your thread we not notice that there still isn't any real progress done :peepwall: :mock: :stirthepot: :thumbsup: |
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:twak: I know, you know better Rick and you're just busting my chops.:D Remember that 69? For anyone building a car yourself you fast begin to realize how much time things can take. I spent a couple hours the other day accomplishing nothing with my hubs. Then I spent a couple hours building all my rotors. Then a couple more taking the hubs off the floater and test fitting the brakes. So I have a days work into it and not much to show in pictures but I have made a bunch of progress and when it comes time for finally assembly of my brakes it should go pretty smooth. People lose sight of this when they drop a car off to be built. Just the grunt assembly work takes a considerable amount of time. Then the planning :headscratch: We aren't building kit cars with instruction sheets or manuals (well there are those first gen LS Camaro builds :stirthepot: ) things need to be thought out. Just staring at the frame rails and envisioning how to route your lines is working on your car. It is something, one of many mundane things, you have to do but nobody wants to hear about it. When somebody looks at a shop bill and goes WTF that means they probably never went through doing any of this stuff themselves. If somebody is going to do something right you are going to pay. If you do it yourself be patient because it is going to take you time. So I made progress today. I spent 20 min following up with a source for stainless tubing in straight sticks so I don't have to try (unsuccessfully what a F:censored: bi:censored: if you don't have some fancy roller tool) to uncoil the long sections running down my frame rails. Nothing to show, but progress none the less.:D Don't worry though I have some eye candy progress that I'll be posting coming around the corner. I just have to get some more of the boring stuff done so the car can actually run one day. :thumbsup: Moral of all this babble. Take a breath and get somethign done even if you can't post it.:lol: One day you (I) will walk outside and have a car. For now I'm still just an enlisted man in the Jackstand army. :cheers: |
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Oh and yes I remember the 69 every day I walk out and see the 73 :bang: :lol: |
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Very well said... |
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These cars are a hell of a lot of work to put together. Then a hell of a lot of work to dial in. Then a hell of a lot of work to maintain. Enjoy the ride...... |
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Like Weld says, these car's don't build themselves. So true. Every little bit, every part requires thinking it through. I remember building my first Harley. When I went to the shop and drooled at some of their completed bikes, they said, "yeah, someone put a lot of thought into it." Little did I know many builds later what that meant; I'd stare at my bike on the lift in my garage every night trying to figure out how to make it my work of art (and to me they are rolliing art). Easy for the Pros to do. They have vendor relationships and a number of builds under their belt that defines their 'style.' Us newbs...we just have to think it through as we go. And the next one is an evololution of that thought process. Keep going Bro. That's how it's done :cheers: (Edit: now where'd I put my LS Camaro build manual? :lol:) |
Well said Rob :thumbsup:
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The destination is only a small part of the journey.
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(Pause... silence) "And now for the nominees in the next category.... Best Cookie Cutter Camaro"... (oh wait, that's from that other forum) :popcorn2: Quote:
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