Don't think that's not running through my mind. :_paranoid

Modification 4,063 and 4,064.

As the car and myself have gradually gotten faster along with the onset of old age, :unibrow: safety comes into play. One thing I've always wished I had was a power cut off switch. A majority of fires are caused my an electrical short. It will also be nice while servicing the car. Flaming river makes this big daddy that is NHRA approved and will take 2500 amps for 5 second intervals and 200 continous. Maybe a little over kill but I like a margin of safey. http://www.flamingriver.com/index.ph...s0004/FR1003-2 I set out to poke a hole in the rear facia right below the bumper but couldn't bring myself to it. I'll probably do it down the road. Anyway, I just put a make shift T handle on it for now but it's in the right location for the rod down the road. As usual, this turned into quite a little project. I had to rework all the cables and wires minus the negative side. I'm happy with the look and function. I'm going to order a different sticker with the push off instructions. I also plan to cover the terminals. The only bitch I have with it is a roll pin holds the lever on and you must install the switch in the bracket before you put the arm on and beat in the roll pin. The arm won't fit through the hole in the bracket. The hole is also at and angle so a machine screw won't work.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0045.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0048.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0050.jpg

The second thing I added is a ROLL OVER SWITCH. I wired it into the ground side of my fuel pump relay. The car must be upside down for this switch to cut the ground to the relay. While I hope to never test this one out, I wouldn't want to be upside down with 140 per hour flowing. It's the red capped switch next to the fuel pump relay. I wired it so that if it malfunctions, I can simply uplug the connections and bypass it. The switch is made by painless.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0038.jpg

Neither mod was very expensive, I probably have $250 in the whole deal. The cut off switch was pretty time consuming but that was due to packaging and working around the previous set up. I wouldn't build another car without either.

When we're all getting caught up in our next 10 hp mod, good call on a pause for safety. Lots of people read this thread obviously so hopefully others consider it. Or just get a mechanical fuel pump. :D

I was just talking w Mike @ Musclerodz about this yesterday. Like you my big hold up was routing the cut-off switch through the rear of the car.

Glad you're thinking safety Todd...:cheers: Maybe in 2017 I'll get to it :lol:

EDIT: Another thought I had is maybe a cut-off lanyard like boat racers use? If they get thrown from the boat it kills all major systems so you don't get mowed down.

Nice work.:thumbsup: I just installed one too. Now i got to rewire the bat wire for the stereo back to the battery so it doesn't erase the memory everytime i hit the main kill switch

They also make a remote cable and handle that goes into the car so you can kill it yourself and from the outside. Summit # LOK-1330023

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-1330023/

Todd... does that switch work with an alternator?

I like my pump 12 inches from the pickup and flooded, thanks anyway. :unibrow:

I'd install a cutoff switch when you wire the car. If I was to start over, it would likely have a cutoff switch in the dash similar to Nascar. That still doesn't stop a short from the positive cable since that's a long run from the trunk. My postive cable is only 6-8 inches from the battery to the switch. That's a good thing.

This switch does not get wired into the ignition system. That would be another benefit of the dash mounted switch. I listen to my Ipod or exhaust so radio stations weren't that important. :unibrow: I may play around a little in PSCA down the road and want to be legal.

What I am asking is.. If you flip the main switch in the trunk to off...does it kill the eng? NHRA track techs "sometimes" check that. And if it doesn't, they won't let you run until it is fixed.

IMOHO if I'm in a wreck I want everything to be shut OFF with one switch eng, fuel pump etc. Just trying to help. My iPod is in my truck.. old owner cheaped out on the stereo in the Cam.

When I get to the wiring part of my car I am thinking about using this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30204/

Can wire the toggle switch at the dash, but it disconnects the positive cable at the battery. The only thing is, you would have to wire in another toggle switch so some one could get to it on the outside, per NHRA rules.

Jon

Todd, Very nice update.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The answer is NO. The car will continue to run with the switch in the off position. My main focus was a short but I didn't think about them verifying it would kill the engine. I'm not tearing the entire car apart so it will have to do. :D I knew it was likely that it wouldn't kill the engine.

See my lesson in paragraph one. :lol:

Thank you sir.:cheers: