This hobby is expensive enough as it is. I would pick up a used Holley 750 HP. Holleys are super simple to rebuild and a 750 is a good base to go with as you can run them with higher or lower hp ranges and jet them accordingly. :yes:

Another thing to add, if you were running a single plane intake the 650 would be fine but the dual planes like bigger carbs.

invest a bit more in her, and get rid of the carb and get a Fast EZ efi unit.

Around $2K more is a big bit :D Don't get me wrong, the Fast EZ system really tempts me but I also like the nostalgic muscle car aspect of the carb. The fuel tank expense for FI is what tips the scale especially when the car's front suspension is still all old school.

Once I have an idea of what went wrong and why and estimate the damage expenses we'll see. The suggestion is a good one and appreciated. :thumbsup:

Sorry to hear Seig, glad you and the car made it out ok. That's some scary stuff for sure.

I like the no fluff look of the Holley better that's for sure. Since the car is used far more on the street than track you still think the 750 w/355 ci is the better way to go? The Performer RPM Air Gap appears to be "the versatile" manifold of choice by many though there are numerous manifolds better than my current Torker II.

What duration and lift on the cam? Which AFR's are you using?

Thank you :thumbsup:

The cam is a hydraulic unkown, no ID on the front end, Comp Magnum roller tip 1.52 rockers. One knoweldgable long-time builder said it sounded and felt similar to the GM "Duntov" pattern and they (GM) made a similar patterned cam in a hydraulic version. It likes(d) to idle around 950-1000, best obtainable vacuum at idle is 10.5-11". It likes to start pulling at 2,500-2,800 starts pulling good around 3500-3800 and at 5500 it feels like the intake impedes progress. :)

AFR's are older 190's w/ 2.00 int. Not sure on the exact cc's as they appear to be 72's that have been surfaced.

Lot's of unknowns but not for long.

Good news is State Farm is covering it, now I need to clarifiy the rules of the game. The agent is a long-time local and friend which should help. :thumbsup:

AFR heads typically flow better out of the box then any other head. Not sure which ones you are using but with a 2.00 intake valve I would stick with 650. If you are currently running flat top pistons the 72 cc chamber size is going to drop your compression. Typically with flat top pistons and 64 cc combustion chambers you will get about 10.5:1 compression. If you are going to use those heads it's time for some pop ups.

I dont know what heads were on it before but it is possible they could have impeded your rpm range. I know typically advertised range for a cam that starts pulling at 2500 should take you to 6500 but without specifics on the cam its a tough call. If it were me I'd buy another cam just so I knew what I had.

The ID #'s for the cam could be on the back of the cam

No need to buy another cam -- they can measure the one that he has.... and tell him exactly what he has.

Also -- I have tools that can measure lift... and you could make a pretty good stab at what it is using a degree wheel and cam follower and dial indicator...

The heads were on my 408 motor and work GREAT -- they've been ported... and I spent almost a grand having them gone through AFTER I took them off the motor...

It would be very important to match the valve springs to the cam... and depending on clearances - maybe go to the 1.6 rocker arms.