Well .....? Throw us a bone .... keep up the good work!

I'm going to be checking back for details on the connector channeling Vince talked you into. Do you think it could be done easier prior to installing connectors with advice from you guys in the form of measurements?

Thanks for checking my hibernation status the other day. It means a lot to have support like that... Oh, and speaking of support contgrats on the rotisserie.

Now, I believe Chief wants pics! Bring 'em on.

Ha! Sorry, was still gnawing on that bone:)

I finished the base prime tonight. It took waaaayyy longer than I expected to just get the base prime on. I spent the entire day yesterday wiping the car down with wax/grease remover and then masking off what I didn't want painted.

I'm not happy with HOK epoxy primer. I sprayed an entire gallon on today just on what you see. I did a little priming in the trunk and the outside of the front inner fenders and dash face that I didn't get any pics of.

I'll sand all I primed today, tomorrow, and hopefully get the car cleaned up again and spray the entire outside of the shell with the high build primer.

Glad to see you back over here Robert! Gotta keep you motivated:bump:

I think you could get them fitted to the car and just do a few tack welds to hold them in place. Then, lay out the lines and trace out where they crossover the connectors. Then remove the connectors and cut them and make the modification. With that said, to me, it seems easier to do with them already installed. Vince may know otherwise, so you might want to hit him up for that. However, it wasn't difficult to do the mod with them installed already. It took me about 5 or so hours to get them cut, make the channel and weld it in and then finish out the welds.

Thanks, the rotisserie makes life so much easier working on the car. It sure helped while doing all the priming I did tonight. I couldn't imagine going this far into a build and not using one.

:popcorn2: Looks very nice .... what didn't you like about the HOK epoxy? You gonna spray your liner right over the epoxy, right?

Looking good :thumbsup:

Thanks Chief!

It took me a while to figure out the best way to spray the HOK epoxy. I'm used to using regular epoxy and the HOK version is a bit different. The tech sheet says you can use between a 1.5-1.8 tip and reduce up to 10% if wanted. I started out with a 1.5 tip of unreduced product. My gun, nor I, liked spraying it like that, so after the gun was empty the first time I started reducing it and switched tips to a 1.8 tip. It laid out much better this way. However, this stuff is very heavy and has quite a bit of over spray.

When I was reading through the tech sheet, it never stated anything about a recoat window, so I contacted HOK and they said it is meant to be sanded before the next coat of product. I was wanting to go right over the epoxy with the high build without sanding. I'm going to have to sand everything I sprayed today and then reclean the car before the next stage of priming. I should have read the tech sheet before buying the product. It has a good amount of build to it, though. HOK stated it is a high build epoxy, so that is a plus as I can have more build to sand. Hopefully it sands easier than the DuPont epoxy. DuPont's version is not meant to be sanded and I hope to never have to sand that stuff anymore. I block sanded my car prior to what you see now and it was like sanding concrete:bang:

Now, I gotta sand, clean and prime again. I used up all the HOK epoxy, which was 4 quarts of product that I had on hand. I don't know if I'll buy more of this or not. I still have the doors, fenders, trunk lid, hood, header panel and front lower valance to work on.:rolleyes:

More progress photos:popcorn2:

I had hoped to have more done by today, but progress is progress. I managed to get the bodywork done on the dash face, seam sealed all the seams on the firewall and the front floor pan seam, and glued the dash face in with 3M body adhesive. I also seam sealed the rear wheel house seams. Now, I just have to sand the body again and spray the high build. After that is finally time to spray some color on the bottom of the car in the form of Raptor liner. This week maybe?

Cool project. On the tinted raptor, what color are you going? Depending on color, I have had it not match close enough to my liking. It also shrinks so if you don't have a good bond, it will pull away from reverse curve. I have used SEM liner on last couple cars and it color matches including metallics pretty good.

I'll be painting it mixed with blue. What would keep it from not making a good bond? I have every thing sanded with 180 grit and have wiped it twice with wax and grease remover

not paying close enough attention to prep. I had a big issue with one car in particular, but it was from poor prep of ex employee. Didn't start showing up until about 6 months after it was applied.