I know alot of us (myself included) my not really NEED a floater, but if the cost difference is only a couple hundred bucks on top of about 3 grand, then why not? It is without a doubt a superior design, right? Whats wrong with a little overkill, especially in the drivetrain? Is there any application out there where semi floaters are better?

That's why not, IMO. How much more do you want to spend? A good set of 31-spline axles with 3.150" bearings is somewhat overkill for most of us.

I'd be willing to bet a SF axle is slightly lighter, both in unsprung and rotating mass. AND you have all the brake kits you want that will bolt on.

With that mentality, you might was well go for a 4" driveshaft. But it's only money.

It just seems to me that a little extra insurance toward drivetrain strength would be more of an investment than a waste of money. Besides, look at the money most of us spend on our cars- a couple hundred bucks is barely felt. (price a good paintjob lately?) I think I'd rather put it toward a stronger axle than chrome. But now you've got me thinking about a 4" driveshaft! Maybe not.

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The Bearing you mentioned. Is that the Big Ford Bearing you are referring to?

I've got the Strange Center section and housing, Their 31 splined Axles, Tru-Trac, and it uses the large Ford End Bearings.

From what has been explained to me from Mark Magers, and what I have read since read. This set up is plenty more than enough for a PT car that gets lots of Track time.

That's why I wasn't so keen of the full floater, unless you just want one, and Lord knows I certainly have made similiar decisions from time to time.

Take Care,

Ty

Yes it is. Specifically the tapered style bearing.

LOL! However some of us guys with long single driveshafts actually did the math and found out that a 4" driveshaft was necessary to keep a comfortable margin away from hitting the critical speed of the shaft at the speeds the car can and occasionally attains. Might as well spec all your parts to be safe at the maximum operating capability of the vehicle!

With my combination I found that I was within 150 rpm of the critical speed of a Mark Williams 3.5" aluminum driveshaft at the top of 4th gear, which I do hit every now and again. 150rpm is NOT a comfortable "safety margin" for me especially when it comes to something like critical speed which can and does have very dangerous consequences. A 3.5" Aluminum MMC shaft had about a 700rpm margin, and a 4" aluminum shaft had about a 850 rpm margin. The prices were all very similar so I chose what would give me the biggest margin of safety.

That comment was within the context of this discussion, which is using equipment that isn't necessary for a particular application and is only purchased for a "cool factor" or otherwise (something other than a "need" basis).

If you NEED a 4" driveshaft, then you don't have a choice. Same goes for a FF axle. If you DON'T need a 4" shaft, than what's the point? You'll just spend more money on something that is oversized. Bigger isn't always better.

Perhaps I'm too anal about efficiency. I guess that's why I do what I do. Sure, every part should not be sized such that no margin of error exists, but the FOS designed into every part should reasonable enough to allow for unusual loads and situations, but not so much that excess weight and bulk degrades vehicle performance.

I think you will have great success with that rear. From my past and the research I did we ended up with the same thing. Although I had the housing built locally.

Later,

Nah, you just sound like a mechanical engineer. So am I... and I agree with you 100%. :P

Make that 3. So am I and I agree as well.