You could check miller's web site (miller welds) for the details and specifications - but bacically they are the same machine with the 140 and/or 180 with A/S having a computer system that will automatically select the volts/amps and wire speed for you based on the thickness of the material you select. It's designed for the home hobby person who hasn't been through training and the A/S setting will help a novice person get the machine up, running properly and build confidence. Some people are a little intimidated by welding and all the variables you need to figure out to weld properly (wire size, wire type, volts, amps, wire speed and the differences for various metals)

On the 140 manual version you have to look those settings up yourself on a Mig setting chart/guide/wheel - and then manually enter those settings via the knobs on the face of the manual machine. The Miller version of the MIG guide is about 3 dollars at your local welding supply store.

The A/S version of the 140 and 180 lets you set it and forget it - and some people prefer that. More complex functionality inside the box can also be just one more thing that will break down and need repaired...

Jim

I just purchased a Hobart Handler 140 two weeks ago.. still haven't used it yet. But I purchased it for building my 60 Beetle and my 65 chevelle. I have welded some before; but I wouldn't claim to be a welder by any means. I looked at a few different models and this one seemed be a great beginner/learner model. It has full adjustment for wirefeed and four settings for voltage. I paid just under 600 with the 3 yr warranty.

I looked at the auto-select models that were a bit cheaper; but I just don't see that being good for myself or anyone really interested in learning to weld.

Just my input, I wish I had used it already to give my opinion of that.

Best of luck to the OP.

mig welder
 

Please let me add my 2 cents. I build hotrods, mostly early Chevies. While using a Miller 135 my welder (he has worked as a rig welder in a refinery for many years) made the comment that he could hardly get enough penetration while installing 5/16" boxing plates. I bought a Miller 180 and now everybody is happy. The cost is a little higher, approx $800.00, but it's well worth it. It seems to work well at both ends of the material thickness spectrum, i.e. chassis and sheet metal.

Just an update since this thread popped up again...

I ended up with a Miller 175, and it has been cruising along with no problems. So far I have started welding all of the seams in the subframe, and floor pans are next on the horizon. So that will cover a good range of thickness and I'll have a better opinion then.

For the frame, I have had no problems, except some old crud stuck in crevices that burns when I weld. Any ideas on how to get 40 years of crud off a frame? I have tried wire wheels, fiber discs, grinding wheel, etc. with little luck.

"For the frame, I have had no problems, except some old crud stuck in crevices that burns when I weld. Any ideas on how to get 40 years of crud off a frame? I have tried wire wheels, fiber discs, grinding wheel, etc. with little luck."

The best way to get rid of the "crud" or rust is to sand blast it out. You will never be able to grind it off because of the pits. If you cannot afford a small pressure pot unit, you could always get a cheaper sand blasting gun with a hose that you stick directly in a bucket of sand (much slower but will eventually accomplish the job). Instead of the typical "silica sand" that most people use, I use a copper slag product. It does not break down as fast as the sand and will not embed itself in the metal. It does pit the metal a little more at first but after recycling it a few times will produce nice results. We have been shooting PPG, Valspar and House of Color for years and the paint reps would rather see us use the copper slag for blasting and not silica sand. They have had paint issues which they think is related to the silica that has been embeded in the metal. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

Thanks,
Derek

I have a Snap-on(blue point) 250 amp monster I love but if I had to buy one tomorrow I would call HTP. I started dealing with them about 2 years ago and they can not be out done! They are almost the cheapest with great quality units. They have a great warranty but do stuff a little different. When a machine breaks down from any other company you have to ship it or take it to a local shop that they approve. If your smart enough to weld your smart enough to fix your welder. They will tell you exactly what to check and and how, to diagnose the problem. Then they ship you the parts first rate shipping. and you are going the next day! They will do it the normal way if you prefer. But for the price, quality, and service I will use them from now on. I have a plasma that works flawlessly.

http://www.htpweld.com/

The reason you haven't heard of them is b/c they don't advertise. They have grown by word of mouth. The bike shops have been using them for years. Thats how I learned about them. (I build bikes part time.)

Mig Welder
 

Been tossing this one around for a while, giving the 110v my vote... Just started on my 89 IROC, and no welder by any means. Just working on getting the garage finished so work can be done. Plus my garage is only on a 10ga 30 amp circuit, may have to redo this in the future.

I picked up a Miller DVI at SEMA two years ago. Best thing is I save about 500.00 plus free shipping and a cover.Total was around $1300.00. Great welder does everything I need. Next will be a tig.

I have a miller 180 and LOVE it! :thumbsup:

PFFFT!

Buy a 5000 amp and don't look back. :willy: