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are you sure it eliminates a/c? everybody that has em on f-bodies or vettes are running a/c.
also procharger includes brackets with their ls kits. unless im missing something??? |
Hmm, maybe Im missing something, but the fbody and vette location is on the top right of the motor, above the a/c compressor. I would think that it would kill sales if a procharger install would require owners to yank their a/c.
Maybe you could clarify but I dont see why fbody/vette brackets wouldnt work on a 69 with a max g chassis. I mean the procharger is mounted up on top. I could see if it was mounted down low that it might interfere with a chassis crossmember or rack n pinion or something... Seems a top mount would work. Please correct me if im wrong. The reason Im sorta fighting for the procharger is because I dont want the unbearable power down low that a roots style blower will give me. Id rather have it up top when I already have traction. Thanks again. |
LS-2/3 Block 1000HP+
When we "dyno" tested Ro's (Chev-High) Twin-Turbo LS-1,
we had no problems. The block did have "steel" main caps, as does the LS-7. The torque was 1080@22 lbs, HP was 1050@18 lbs. (4.1 stroke, LS-1 bore) Remember a quality EMS is also important to keep the engine safe. A quality EMS can decode the 58x(60-2) target WITHOUT a cam sensor. Those systems that require a CAS to operate could FORGET to look at ALL the teeth AND tooth acceleration. This is what creates "Timing-Lag", a major cause of exploded engines. Lance |
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Hey Lance, how do you deal with signal discrimination/saturation at high RPM with the 58X wheel?
Several guys with lots of experience in both the LS1 and EFI industry have suggested I use a 24X wheel on my new twin turbo LS2 build. Their reasoning being as RPMs increase it gets more difficult to discern the individual tooth signals of the 58X wheel and you run the chance of misinterpreting the signal, leading to false injection/false timing events. I believe the number I was told was things start to get "fuzzy" with the 58X wheel around 7200rpm, where the 24X wheel starts to get "fuzzy" around 9100-9200 rpm, the disadvantage here obviously being the lower tooth count of the 24X wheel limits the resolution of the system. Both of the guys I talked to suggested I use the 24X wheel because of greater tooth "individuality" & a clearer signal at higher RPM where the engine is making the most HP, whereas the 58X wheel is giving lots more pulses at high RPM with a larger chance of the individual tooth pulses "running together" and false-triggering. I'm normally not a name dropper, but one of the sources for this recommendation was John Meaney (Big Stuff 3)... Waiting to hear your feedback. I haven't purchased a new ECU yet for my LS2 and am still researching the options. The BS3 and your Pantera system are still in the mix... |
60-2 (58x) THE TRUTH
First, the person(s) who have stated this to you are
LIARS, maybe just STUPID. I will state the a "VR" sensor could have a problem over 14,000 RPM due to sensor design. That requirement would be switched to the 36-x target. The LS-7 (GRAY) hall sensor (60-2 target) has been tested to over 12,000 RPM with no problems. Those EMS that can not do the decode are just plain JUNK. ASK yourself why GM uses the 60-2 (58x) are they dumb ? NO they are VERY sharp, they look at the tooth acceleration. Now, I like John M., though to do the decode correctly the processor needs speed in the decode area. Most (OEM's) state a 100mhz frequency is required is the decode area, ours is 160 mhz. With that my EMS can easily run over 25,000 RPM. When the 60-2 is decoded CORRECTLY we see the tooth acceleration that is present durning combustion/engine RPM increase/decrease. That information is used to "predict" the spark instant. That information is used to "inspect" combustion quality. Remember, I was part of the team who worked with Alex Long, the INVENTOR of DIS with "missing tooth decode" using the 60-2, 36-1 targets. Lance NIST |
I have no clue on the engine set up bet let me know how you like the max g set up been thinking about there kit for my mustang.
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