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" where did you hear that" " on the internet" |
Aluminum flywheel is the best thing about my car! Makes it feel way faster and sound way meaner than it really is. The whole car just gets more visceral in the lower gears.
I start off in 2nd gear (1.98*3.73 = 7.39) all the time no issues, just a little more finesse is needed I suppose. Another benefit...in a (God forbid) kaboom in a bellhousing, a 15lb aluminum flywheel is much safer than a 30+ lb steel one. |
I put one behind my 666hp ZL-1 489 and enjoyed it thoroughly. Mine was 14 lbs. I could take off without even blipping the throttle. It just ate it up. It revved like a short stroke small block all the way to 6800. :thankyou: It made rev matching way easier.
The compromise, because there are always compromises: It made my tko600 even harder to shift. It would also start to buck 200-300 rpm sooner in a tall gear for the speed. I'd do it again except behind a t56 and rev it to 7200. :lol: |
There is some pretty cool info in this article about the effects of aluminum vs. steel flywheel. Kind of long but worth the read
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea...e/viewall.html |
Good information in that article :thumbsup: .... I am running a 12 lb aluminum flywheel on my 427" LS engine. It does take just a bit more RPM when starting out but barely noticeable.... still very easy to drive on the street in traffic. I like the way the engine responds and feels with the lighter aluminum flywheel.
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Doesn't the reciprocating assembly in an FE weigh about as much as a complete SBC?
It will be fine with aluminum just slightly more throttle input when pulling off from a stop. Make sure you get a good flywheel if you go with aluminum. I've been in some cars with cheapo budget alum flywheels and they would flex with RPM. (You could push the clutch to the floor while in gear and if you revved it over 6000rpm the car would lunge forward). Bolt the same clutch to a good flywheel (or steel) and the problem disappeared. |
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