What would the cost be for just the torque arm components, roughly, and would it work with a Ford 9"?

I've been putting some miles on my setup with composites and a watt's link and my only lingering issues are what you mentioned, axle wrap and putting the power down.

We have torque arms available for the 10 and 12 bolts for $1k but only complete rear suspension kits w/housings for the 9". It's a simple install for the 10/12 bolt guys since the torque arm mounts to the differential cover with no welding or fabrication but our 9" kits require the use of our fixture welded 9" housing. We have had customers who wished to purchase all the bracketry to weld to their existing housings but we use Strange HD housings with a back brace and all of our bracketry is profiled for this specific housing. Unfortunately there is no torque arm available for the 9" without using the entire kit....

Does the front cross member for the torque arm mount at the rear body bushings on the subframe? If not, where does it land on the subframe?

Never mind, I kept reading and saw that the initial answer was "yes."

Brett, I wouldve ran that exact setup had you made it a few years ago!! I ended up ditching my 'glass springs and a buddy and I fabbed up a complete TQ Arm rear suspension since none were avaliable.

Which brings me to the OP. I had the VB 'glass springs on my 69 since about '91 along with the rear sway bar. I ended up pulling them about 3-4 years ago because I wanted a "do all decent" suspension instead, which I think the TQ Arm does. I had zero problems with them and actually liked them. I think they would have done better with a watts or panhard to locate them since they did have quite a bit of side flex without. I had put over 100,000 miles on it in that time with them..still zero problems. Now, I never tracked the car, so I don't know how it would actually handle against real cars, but it did hold it's own on the street. I did the "no no's" with them also.....3" lowering blocks with the stock 10 bolt (blocks cracked) and 3 1/2" enlarged steel perches for the 9" rear when it went in....Zero problems. Also, the last 8 years or so with them it had twin turbos and made approx 550hp/650tq to the wheels and I took it to the strip on slicks regularly (11.0xx@125 and a 1.60 short time best)....zero problems.

I think that they will EITHER handle great OR dragstrip great....NOT both, which is what I wanted. That is why I changed, and am happy enough now!

Good luck!!

MKelcy,
You’re absolutely correct, he was very successful with the composite springs, but he was willing to swap to a complete Hotchkis TVS for our R&D needs. With his new combination his Camaro took first place in the Autocross portion of the Super Chevy Magazine Suspension and Handling Challenge, getting great points for both ride comfort and handling.

Bushings....
 

VB&P is out of business. And...I have their composite springs on my 69 Camaro. The bushings on front and rear of the leaf springs are shot.

Any idea the size and or replacements?

I can tear it down and measure. But once I do the car is not moveable.

Not to cross post and link you to another forum... But I'm gonna.
I kind of doubt VBP made their own springs, I think they compiled their catalog from items sourced but it is just a hunch.
I have no personal experience with them but from research would recommend the spherical eye bushings. There are way more types in the market now which means they work, people are buying them and more are entering the market.

Have a look at this list. Someone should have dimensions that match yours. I'd get a feel for their tech support before you even measure yours.
https://www.pro-touring.com/archive/.../t-120012.html

Problem solved.

Energy suspension was able to cross over to a bushing they actually make for the Durango. I also found the springs had the wrong sized sleeves (all four were rears). Energy has the correct front ones.

Got it all installed. Man...smooth and quite. The vb&p bushings were just like a cast mold rubber. They just go away over time.