For other, I was thinking some sort of plating (chrome, nickle, etc.), aluminizing, or some other similar process.

As well, I suppose you could wrap it in Kevlar.

Bottom-line is that you are only limited by your imagination and pocket book.:thumbsup:

:cheers:

My plan is to prime the frame with epoxy primer after cleaning to bare metal then spray with the Eastwood 2k Ceramic Chassis Black. I am going to use gloss black. All components like rear axle and suspension arms, a-arms, spindles, steering components, tranny cross member etc. are getting powder coated.

Ohhhh, okay. I didn't think of that. Totally blew my mind. I had tunnel vision, because not many muscle car guys chrome their frames. I would think more of low riders doing that kind of stuff.

I used KBS Rust Seal. Great product:thumbsup:

I don't know... I've seen too many Harley frames that, after a few years of abuse, are peeling due to rust migration that started from a simple chip. Of course, everything under my car is semi-flat black or undercoat, but I really like a good paint as it can always be sanded and repainted wherever it needs it. Plus, if I make a modification, I don't have to worry about the heat, I just scuff and paint.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

Not sure if it has been mentioned, when we did our '55 chassis, the powdercoating shop did a base coat in zinc and a color topcoat. Both were powders. So, if it does chip, the zinc will offer rust protection. Pretty cool and something to think about for the powdercoat votes.

I had the frame on my 55' project powdercoated. :D

Quick note on powder coat as you prepping the frame or whatever parts.

I like and used powder on frames. Good sand blast to give the metal some "tooth" and it sicks like crazy.

Allot of cracks in powder coat start from a sharp edge. Powder doesn't adhere well over sharp corner like a frame or suspension mount. If you can slightly rounnd edges and the powder will take a hit better and not crack.

Another thing is layers of powder. The more layers you have the better the chances of attachment bolts will crack the powder coat they are tighten. Split lockers washers are tough on powder coat.

The company I work for has a powder coat shop and does zinc, nickel and anodizing. Nickel is very durable. I've used it allot on things like hood hinges,
headers, and latchs. Nickel "wears" better if parts rub on each other.

Stationary I like to use a ceramic paint.

anything that moves: Electroless or Sulfamate Nickle.