Add up everyone's guess and that's your total!!

More than you think.

See my response, I think can be done for almost nothing if done yourself :)

It can be done for cheap:

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...d.php?t=115983

Some people think because they spent X, it costs X. In raw terms the motor is likely the cost the most, and depending on how skilled you are, you can probably spend 1000-1500$ to get it in and running. If you order parts out of a catalog, like your fuel system, a reworked harness etc, you'll probably have a multiple of that gone.

I spent 2500$ on my motor, 1500$ on parts to get it going, doing a custom fuel system, reworking the harness myself and so forth.

I also will spend about 3k or so in parts to upgrade it or that are related but completely optional.

I am finding it costs more than I would have guessed, but I also have moved from trying to make some budget things work here and there to doing it the way I wanted to in the first place. I initially had bought an LQ4 that I was going to freshen up, then I wanted LS3 heads and a cam. Then I found somebody that wanted my LQ4 (which I parted out the accessories, intake, etc and gotten all of my money back from the original purchase) and then I found an LS3 block. I have found that all of the little stuff is what will really get you though. Accessories, transmission, gaskets, headers, PCM/wiring, gauges, gas tank, radiator as many others have mentioned. I justify it by thinking about the fact that most of those would have been replaced anyway (new gas tank, radiator, gauges).

I started out on the budget build as well and still ended up spending a lot more than I planned and its still going. I got caught up in the "while I'm in there" mode. The more i read these forum builds the more I want!!

I just cut this from our P-T.com build thread. We definitely spent extra money on some beautiful parts that function as good as they look.

Don't shoot the messenger, this is just where we ended up. Oh yeah, we have dumped plenty more in engine rebuilds and replacement since the winter of 2010/11. All in the name of a hobby...

The price tag!
Not sure if anyone really wants to look at this, but I have been keeping a running word document of $$$ spent on the swap. It doesn't show the $3900 that we sold the BBC for or parts from the L92 that we've sold or still need to sell. I left a few things blank to honor agreements. I did estimate a little low when I sold this idea to myself and Deb, but I think it will be worth it in the end. (crossing my fingers)

66 Chevelle LS swap

Engine: L92 (2008 Escalade) $4200

LS3 intake $275

Mast Motorsports M-90 DBW L99 HO performance package, DBW pedal, and oil pan $$$$.$$

LS bellhousing (LS1tech classifieds) $160

Valve spring tool and air fitting $60.00

RPM transmission LS midplate, input shaft and labor $620

Keisler Clutch actuator, LS old school flywheel and bellhousing bolts $903.85

Gaskets (oil pan, timing cover, valve covers) $100 +/-

Ricks stainless fuel tank $1100 shipped

DSE LS/SBC coilover springs for swap $$$.$$

Spark plugs and JB Weld for valve covers $59.80

Hooker headers and mounts $$$.$$

Earl’s lines for PCV, Accusump, remote oil filter and cooler $141.86

GM valve cover bolt and starter bolts $14.83

Mast Motorsports O2 sensors (2) $94.98

Napa C-5 fuel filter/regulator $42.80

Pure Choice Motorsports EFI fuel rail -6 fitting and (3) regulator -6 fittings $91.90

PCV canister (Mike Norris) $100

Exhaust clamps, Lokar dipstick, thermostat (Summit racing) $104.75

More Earl’s AN fittings $66.16

More Earl’s AN fittings for PCV system $62.62

Shaftmasters driveshaft $307.39

Remote power steering reservoir and aluminum pump (DSE) $276.75

Roadster shop 8” shifter handle (3” setback) $81.45

Earl’s Indy 16’ -6 pro-lite 350 black hose and two toggles $124.38

Warner Steel (aluminum scrap for brackets) $13.11

Hubler Chevrolet (08 Corvette MAP sensor) $69

CAR-X (Bend exhaust tube to connect to hooker headers) $100

Automotion spd. shop (wilwood 570 for clutch & Royal Purple synchromax for trans) $83.42

VA front runner system $$$$.$$

Radiator hoses and tubes from Speedway Motors. $150.25

Tig weld radiator and tubes $20

McMaster Carr shrink tube radiator clamps and wiring shrink tube $27.62

Total paid: $14864.78

Tom, excellent list, but I gotta say you guys went all out and did a superb build using a lot of top shelf stuff. As much as the Ls1 and its "L" cousing engines are becoming the bread for newer hot rods, prices are starting to drop on parts, more combos are coming up and there are several areas where $ can be saved without cuting corners.

I admit I have an unfair advantage buying a complete runner, parting it out and recouping the investment quicker, but am still surprised why more people are not doing the same (or if they are, they just want to stay quiet about it, pshhhh :))

Yes, add labor cost to part the car and sell the stuff and things may balance out, however you have a full and complete running car to start with everything to pick from. That will save a lot of your time on the net or time figuring out missing stuff needed, or going to multiple drives to buy parts or to stores to buy misc stuff that is missing when you start with a complete donor form the get go, so basically am considering that a partial wash.

Gui

Your letting my knowledge out!!!! LOL!

Im the king of cheap, and my car will run just as long, just as hard as most on here LOL!!!!! If you cant part an F-body which is the cheapest way to go.... then choose plan b below!~

I could do a complete automatic swap ls setup in any chevy for $2500 OUT THE DOOR... I have 4 cars currently on the road with swaps FYI!!!!

AND LOL at 10,000 for a swap theres nothing budget about 10,000 dollars in a drivetrain... GM Does that much for a new car.... LOL

I am currently at a grand total of -$600 for my LS1/6 speed swap due to parting out a complete running/driving car. I ended up swapping my stock Pontiac 400 and 6 speed for a complete 99Z28 Camaro. I have parted out the car, and still am parting out the car and have made around 600 bucks so far. I got a great deal, but I would highly recommend buying a complete car and parting out the rest.

I still need to buy my headers(Kooks swap headers $800-900), gauges, plumbing, and other misc. costs, but I should break even when all is said and done. Not everyone will be able to do that, but it can be done.

same here, hoping net cost will be in the sub $1000 after all said and done :)

Option fo those looking into turbo their puppies is to save money on headers, get some truck ones, flip around, then spend the header funds on a turbo instead ;)