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I've said it in 50 different welding threads -- if you can't see -- you can't weld. Period. You have to be able to see what you're doing. But then again -- I'm kind of an equipment kind of guy.... the right stuff for the right job.
There's 4 different helmets - used for different things... A couple of them (the ones hanging on the TIG machine - are capable of lower settings -- so I can TIG at very low amperage and still see... One of the helmets on the MIG machine is set up more for sheet metal tacks if I don't just want to close my eyes. http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...psabad4151.jpg |
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Building stuff - or being able to do a job yourself is FUN! I don't care what anyone says. I love being able to just fix something! |
Fab53 MIG weld
Lurker and I just though I would contribute.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f4c2a7f.jpg For you MIG lovers, welding out of position upside down. (TIP: reduce wire speed 25% and increase heat to the next level above the metal that is being welded. On the up-right start at top and go down and pause every 2 beads just enough time to let the red fade before starting next 2 beads down. On the over head, use a skip back pattern after burning in each bead. On the over head you will need to speed up and keep an eye on the melted pool so it does not get to big and sag or drip). This shot of the weld shows it after it was just been wiped down, I used an Anti-Spatter spray prior to welding. |
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Bret - Beautiful work! Thanks for the setting advice too. I would really like to see a video of you running simple bead on flat work......in your spare time of course. Set a GoPro up! http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-r...-rQ2Bdqd-M.jpg |
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