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-   -   Planning a new build, 65 GTO or 67 Chevelle, what do you guys think? (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37527)

fleet 07-16-2012 07:28 PM

Sure do...
 
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...jazz/65%20GTO/

65_LS1_T56 07-16-2012 07:29 PM

Details here too...
 
https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...&highlight=gto

PhillySpeedNYC 07-16-2012 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65_LS1_T56 (Post 425142)

sweet ride thanks for the links guys, did this car ever sell? I think the price is fairly steep but its one hell of a ride

the more i look at this 65 GTO the more i want to build one. OMG!

snappytravis 07-16-2012 08:40 PM

chevelle all the way

FETorino 07-16-2012 11:14 PM

Use a LeMans shell that's what Pontiac did.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/3080885022.html

fleet 07-17-2012 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FETorino (Post 425167)
Use a LeMans shell that's what Pontiac did.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/3080885022.html

I'd still start with a real GTO. IMO it will certainly matter resale wise if OP sells it, even though it will be heavily modded. Now with the 1st gen Camaros there are 3X or so as many of them as the 75,000+ '65 Goats, and with the pro-touring treatment so many are being given, what it started as doesn't seem to matter at resale time if it's a PT car.

Again my preference, and even though the car will be heavily modded, I'd still like driving some real GTO history. :cool:

barrrf 07-17-2012 06:36 AM

I say Chevelle - but opinion is biased. I think you could prolly find a good Chevelle project for cheaper than a goat anywho?

Roadster Shop 07-17-2012 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhillySpeedNYC (Post 425127)
thanks for more photos I am almost 90% set on the GTO, now just to find a good donor car

I also need to decide hard top or drop top. hmmm

Hey Roadster Shop with your Chassis under a 64-65 GTO how big of a wheel and tire can i get in the rear without really destroying the body and interior floors? Id like at least a 285-295 rear on an 11 wide rim if possible.

The chassis is designed to take a 345 tire on a 12" rim in the rear. You only need to do a 3" mini tub to accommodate this tire/wheel combo. You can retain your entire interior and trunk floor. We simply split the inner and outer wheel house and then add a 3" strip in between them.

PhillySpeedNYC 07-17-2012 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roadster Shop (Post 425213)
The chassis is designed to take a 345 tire on a 12" rim in the rear. You only need to do a 3" mini tub to accommodate this tire/wheel combo. You can retain your entire interior and trunk floor. We simply split the inner and outer wheel house and then add a 3" strip in between them.

Sweet the shop that is going to build the car will work with you guys direct on this once i get the donor. I spoke to them today they said they will send you the body blasted and primed so you can build the chassis to it and then ship back. Im pretty psyched to get this project going. How long would it take you guys to make the chassis, install it to the body and paint the suspension and underside of the floors with your chassis?

Roadster Shop 07-17-2012 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhillySpeedNYC (Post 425254)
Sweet the shop that is going to build the car will work with you guys direct on this once i get the donor. I spoke to them today they said they will send you the body blasted and primed so you can build the chassis to it and then ship back. Im pretty psyched to get this project going. How long would it take you guys to make the chassis, install it to the body and paint the suspension and underside of the floors with your chassis?

Current lead time is 4-6 weeks from deposit to delivery for a production chassis. We really would not need the body here for anything since this is a standard chassis for us... unless you were looking for us to do additional metal work like mini-tubs, trans tunnel, smoothing the firewall, etc...

There are a few other things to discuss before painting the frame and final assembling it. We should really discuss the exhaust, fuel lines, tank, mini-tubbing or not, and several other areas that might require welding or drilling on the frame before painting. When we are building a car, we will build it roughly 90% in bare metal and then take it apart and paint the frame and underside while the body is being painted. That way everything has a place and has been accounted for. Nothing worse than realizing you need an extra exhaust hanger (as an example) and having to weld a tab on a freshly painted chassis!


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