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The problem with infrared heaters that glo red hot is that they also heat you... and I don't know about how you guys feel but when I'm working on stuff I don't like to be heated... I want to work in a warm vs cold environment. So placement of this type of heating is really important. Think sitting in a restaurant with a infrared heater too close to you...
When my shed gets past 70* I open a door if I'm doing anything 'active'. It's just too warm to work. I also think below 60* is just as uncomfortable. I wanted to use heated floors in the shed but it got too complicated with the city codes. Weird codes which had NOTHING to do with a closed hot water heating system... but that's a whole different discussion. If I wasn't going to heat the shed 24/7 I'd use Natural gas style heat - they heat air quickly and can bring the space up to temp pretty quickly... They're compact and don't require ducting etc. They also recover quickly if you open the garage doors etc to do something. Electric is just too expensive and too slow unless you heat 24/7 so they're ineffective. The other thing a guy could do himself is to plumb copper or wirsbo to some water radiator style heaters (around the floor level) and use a hot water tank for the heat source. just an example of the "tube style" -- there's all kinds of them out there. http://www.aimradiantheating.com/sto...ment_Only.html Of course you'd have to have a circulating pump but they're not very expensive and not very big either... But regardless of what your heat source is -- it's about INSULATION.... and then all heat is BTU's -- and you have to calculate what the building space is going to take. |
The infared gas heaters kick ass for sure and that's one way to go. The radiant heaters are another option for a fully finished and insulated garage like the one being discussed. :thumbsup:
As smart as some plumbers are, talking to them about heating is like talking to your electrian about circuit boards and controls. Installing and fully understanding systems are two seperate deals. I'm not a sparky or a turd hurder although I do and have done both more than I've wanted:_paranoid If it were me, and I had this guys set up, I'd intall two of the radiant tubes and be done with it. Gas already on site and building already insulated, bing, bang, boom. :cheers: Dan |
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Darren |
Greg that's kinda what I'm talking about. Im sure you remember the old cast iron radiators that were used with a hot water loop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-12-32-ECO-...769#vi-content Good excuse to bring hot water to the shop, next you'll be washing the car with warm water, wet sanding, making your own espresso....:lol: |
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Good to know.... 'cause I've been under some that would just flat be uncomfortable to work around. And they seem to be an ON or OFF kind of heat. |
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EXACTLY.... Get yourself a 200 gallon Nat Gas hot water tank -- and plumb it up! |
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Darren |
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Hey Darren, can ya hit us with a link to those please. Thx ! :lateral: Jim |
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There is another type called High Intensity infrared, which is open flame, and usually a box type unit. So, this is the type that you might be thinking about. Also, Mr. Heater has one for the home garage. The biggest problem with them, is that unit is not vented. So, you will about pass out on the floor. Jeff Garage Dog 65 here is the links, but your local plumbing/heating contractor will do the installing, and he can get the units at a discount. http://www.ultimategarageheater.com/ http://www.modinehvac.com/v2portal/p...ntent2_013.htm http://reverberray.com/ Steam heat can be done, but realize that you are heating a 200 gallon water tank. I recently went to tankless water heater for hot water, but not sure it be efficient for the garage. Perhaps Solar instead of natural gas. Just not an option in ohio, because it is overcast. Anyway, Modine has that option too. (Typically, I see the infrared radiant heaters in body shops. Steam heat might cause rusting of the bare metal parts on the car.) |
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