I spoke to Jeff yesterday about 30 minutes in detail about superchargers, etc. This guy know his stuff and answered alot of my questions. Big ups to Jeff!!:idea:

The internal cooler underneath the supercharger? Well, there is only limted amount of testing on the new Harrop HTV2300 FDFI, since it was just released. That video is the only one that I seen so far on that new design. The brochure doesn't give you testing results, but more of a chart and a brief sentence. The problem is I don't see any data to back up the testing. So until you have more testing, it would be hard to make estimate at this time. Although, Gerhard Schruf of Bell Intercoolers did discuss about redesigning the internal intercooler for my Harrop HTV2300 in 2009. Never asked about the cost, but he be the person to talk too.

Jeff

Thanks Marcus, when I built my engine it was lot of hands on learning experience. My engine builder involved me a lot in the build of the engine, so I know lot of the details. Although, I got lot of advice from the experts in the field.

Jeff

Have you thought of running a turbo setup instead? Less heat soak, no belt slippage issues, electronic boost controller to modulate the power easier, EBC can also have multiple power settings vs having to change pullies, more hood clearance.....

Have fun putting down 700rwtq+ off idle to the pavement. Plus the ability for servicing of a turbo locally etc.

A killer turbo is around $1500 (or much much less), use factory cast GM exhaust manifolds for the hot side with a fabricated crossover to the turbo inlet (no need to buy headers), A/W or A/A intercooler options $200+ new, $350 wastegate new. Plenty of shops in TX can build you a custom setup if your shop can't.

I'm planning to make 700-800rwhp on a stock $650 shortblock with my setup. 1 setting for 91 octane/meth injection and another for e85.
Traction modulation from either boost by gear or Davis Technologies traction control via the Holley HP EFI.

well I talked to Kim Barr about my LSX 376 he seems to think it will be fine the way it is so I am NOT listening to the guy That told me I had the wrong LSX376 ( there is 2 part #'S) I trust his advice HE said it will be GOOD.
ALSO talked to LOU @ LG and Shawn Burt his tuner now @ TRU street.
and a guy named Andy. Maybe I just got told what I wanted to hear??
NOT!! I was worried about nothing. this is my first blower car I'll start a build thread soon its coming along.:G-Dub:

The 2 top guys in the country is Brian Thomson and Kurt Urban for Supercharged LSX engines. Brian was the first one in the country to use the Harrop TVS 2300 in 2007. Here is magazine article.
http://www.chevroletperformance.com/...ngineBuild.pdf

If you plan to stroke the engine, then it would have better to start off with a bare block. Brian just gave you the part number for the 15psi LSX engine, which has all forged parts. Your LSX 376 is good for 8PSI, the powdered rods and cast crank. Brian makes zero on this, but the other way is to do a custom engine build.

When mine was built, I started with a bare block and I specified all US made forged components. So, the Crower crankshaft is a more expensive forged crank, and is made in the Good old USA. Most of the crankshafts are now made overseas (China) with cheap ore.

Jeff

I agree with Jeff. There is no "right or wrong" LSX376. It's just one is built for 8lbs of boost the other for 15lbs of boost. Hence, the 2 part numbers. I think what he may have been trying to say by "the wrong" LSX376, is he assumed you would probably want to run more than 8lbs of boost. If not, you will be fine just like Kim Barr said.

Here is the 2 part numbers and you can compare parts.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/LSX3...49-P10784.aspx

I seen the process for powder metal parts, it is cool process. Just I would prefer a forging than a powder metal rod at 15 psi.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/LSX3...50811C556.aspx

Here is the 15 psi version, as you can see it is more than just the 8 bolt crank. It is all forged engine.

If you go the custom built engine, then you can go with a cheap import (Chinese) crank or US forged crankshaft. Depends on how much you want to spend on the engine, but on supercharged engine you want it to reliable without problems. So investing in better parts is the best solution. A friend of mine that races has a big block with a Lunati Pro Series forged crank. This cranks has lasted him a long time without failure. Probably 15 years, but not sure. He has to replace blocks, but never the crankshaft. This engine made close to 900hp without NOS, but he has a kit now to put 900 hp of NOS on it. It is your choice on how reliable you want the engine to be.

Jeff

what I was told is there are many stock LS1's 2's 3's da da around this area
running up to 25psi boost. some even dynoed around 1200hp ????
I'm thinking somewere around 15 to 20 psi and a good tune.

25lbs of boost on a stock block. Uhh, I don't believe that. Like you said... "what you were told." Not saying it ain't true, but at 25lbs of boost, I would suspect it's a matter of not if it's gonna break, but a matter of when. I'm just saying that for as expensive as a supercharger is, I would make sure everything is gonna hold up so I wouldn't have to rebuild it again. I've heard of stock blocks being resleeved to be able to handle 20-25lbs of boost. 15-20lbs of boost is good and would make some good power. But, I don't think the Magnuson TVS 2300 makes that much boost. That's why I went with a Kenne Bell 3.6.