The reason that the OEM'S DO NOT SOLDER their connections - EVER - is that heating the copper embrittles it... and then you have the softer copper right at the end of the soldered connection which becomes the break point. Solder is used to attach wires etc to circuit boards. It's never used in a Marine or Automotive environment.


Trust me that you'll have a far better crimp using the uninsulated butt connectors (uninsulated terminals period) using FAR LESS pressure - over the insulated versions... and all the shrink tube I use is GLUED type. So moisture is never an issue as well as it provides the strain relief at the connection.

No wires should EVER be hanging - or be allowed to vibrate or chafe.


Here's an example of proper wiring....




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...iring/file.jpg









And one of how not to do it......:bitchslap: :bang: :lol:








http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/a...ing/file-1.jpg

I've take a few factory OEM harness apart to piggy back a Fast ECM in. The OE do use solder on the harness. Some times its 2 or 3 wires going into one wire they use a crimp and then solder over it.

Okay -- I'll give you that one. Mostly because there's not really a good way to marry a three into one... other than going to a block with jumpers etc and we know they're not going to do that -- and it's not a very good solution to begin with.

I've done 'em that way myself before -- and never liked it but sometimes there's just not a better way. It's not a perfect world is it.

I've heard you say that 100 times now Weld, you were wrong every time including this one. :D

To imply that OEMS solder their connections - of any kind - is wrong and misleading particularly in a forum that is read by many people of various skill levels.

One or two soldered connections - such as the type mentioned by Bob are atypical (meaning rarely or unorthodox). Soldering a stranded wire that is used for it's flexiblity - just turned that point into a solid core wire (as used to wire a house rather than a car).

Once in a great while it might be necessary to make a junction this way but it certainly isn't the common way to wire a car or marine application and is the wrong way for 99.99% of the connectors or butt splices used in autos.

Why try to confuse those that are less knowledgeable just to argue about the one splice in one harness where's it's okay to solder that point?

Sure, in a perfect world you wouldn't need a solder connection or butt splice. The OEM's have the benefit of having wiring harnesses designed for mass production. It's my opinion that a solder connection is extremely strong and reliable. You do it your way, and I'll do it mine. If it's a crucial connection, I'll solder and shrink it. I'd also argue that the voltage drop across a butt splice is larger than a solder connection which can be crucial in many instances.

That voltage drop is very easy thing to test. No point in arguing it when any one with a multimeter can test both ways.

But since we're arguing, Id argue the voltage drop across either is negligible at most because its such a short distance for the voltage to travel.

Bart, I'm aware of how you measure a voltage drop. :D

I twist the wires together and use wire nuts with electrical tape. I have never had a problem, ever. I promise.......:bang: :bitchslap: :poke:

Just to add another industry to the mix for reference, I worked in the transportation industry for years. We built people movers and light rail transit vehicles. Soldering wire splices or terminals in general was prohibited unless specifically reviewed and approved. These were government contract specifications. The reasons were as Greg mentioned as well as degrading the integrity of the insulation due to heat. As with many things, crimp joints must be done correctly with the proper terminals and corresponding tool. When done properly the voltage drop is so low that most multimeters we have in our garages are not sensitive enough to read it consistently. In the end, solderless crimp terminals were engineered to eliminate the undesirable characteristics of the soldered joint. The previous is fact.

The following is opinion. I personally think it is more difficult to make good consistent soldered joints under a dash, in a tail light hole, etc. than a crimp joint. In the end if you have a method that works and is proven for you than so be it. But for those that do not and are looking for information regarding a way to proceed, I recommend solderless crimp terminals. The information John presented is very good and is a good start for those looking to learn.

:popcorn2:

Yeah! But are you doing a "tap" -- "twist" -- or a "western union"....


Let's see if any of ya can figure out what a "western union" is. Bunch of friggin' newbs! :hello: :whistling: