If you are scraping $ together to tub it, I wouldn't. The bleeding only starts with the tubs. I'd throw together a square car. Meaning 275/275mm tires. The lowest investment with good taste will result in the smallest loss at resale.

If you're even slightly contemplating it now, with the car newly paint-stripped and ripe for metal work, then there is no question you should go for it.

Just mini-tubing it does not lock you into "having" to get new tires/rims/axle, etc right now.

If you decide to sell it, it will increase re-sale no doubt, by how much, that is arguable.

Hands-down, if you don't do it now and you end up keeping the car, you're gonna be kicking yourself in a year or 2 time when you wish you had wider than 275 and the car has nice paint on it and all the suspensions bits are installed...

Save money by buying a decent 110V Mig welder for ~$500 and do the job yourself. :welder:

I've found that if you have the money and don't spend it, it will burn a hole in your pocket.

Chris

I'd put the money towards a chassisworks Glink. It's less than the install quote you got. I have zero tubage and run a 295/30/20 with no body mods other than a rolled outer fender lip. IMO a first gen fbody looks silly with a 325-345 rear tire. Its a small car. Its like the juice heads at the gym with enormous upper body and little legs. All the costs don't justify the minimal advantages gained by tubbing. Again just my opinion.

I went back and forth on this one also so I understand your dilemma. I've dumped a lot of money into my ride so money wasn't really the concern for me, it was just the time and effort and the actual 'necessity' of it. I don't think it's a bad investment though. You should be able to get most of your money back for the mod, but it all depends on the buyer. I just decided not to cut up my car and rear seat setup and leave it as is and run my 275x19s. My car is now pretty low in the back and it has a great stance and I don't think i needed 315's to make it look 'slammed' or 'grounded' or whatever. Yes, it would probably look a little more potent with slightly wider tires in the back, but not enough for it to be a necessity for me. Yes, I'll probably lose a little off my 60-foot times, but oh well. My happiness with the car doesn't depend on 10ths of a second. Plus, if you get those mini-tubs and you swap in big back tires(315+), then you need to focus on widening the fronts also or else you'll end up with too much grip in the back and you'll have a push in the corners. A lot of people who put those really wide tires on the back now struggle to get the fronts wide enough to balance the car. I've got a cage over the rear now along with my battery, so with that extra weight along with some soft 275's I'm getting some decent grip and feel like I can manage without the 315's. I put some 265's up front and dropped a lot of weight off the front so with the nearly square tires and the extra weight in the back along with less weight in the front, I'm getting a good balance. But that's just my take on what I need my street ride to be. Everyone's different. If you're trying to be competitive in racing or are just trying to get the absolute most out of your car, do the mini-tubs and think about what you're going to do up front also if you'll need balance. Again, it's not a bad investment and you'd probably get your money back for it. Either way, good luck with your build! :thumbsup:

Spot on as usual Mr. Robinson.

Of course, Todd! Went with a much bigger tire on the back. Is that 335 or 345?

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...hlight=payback

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC_0395.jpg

Todd's money was gobbled in labor costs! On my 67 RS Camaro, a friend's dad and I did it. The advantage is doing it yourself is that you identify the weak spots is the rear sheetmetal frame.
I had 275's on my 67 in the past, but it was drag radial's. I also had a full cage in my car, but I wanted a different car that I could drive. So out went the 383 612 hp full roller small block, and the car was restored to pro-touring. I have changed my build several times, but basically boils down on your goals for your car. Cost was never an issue with me, but everyone has a budget. So, just keep that in mind.

Jeff

I started out with a 345 and ended up with a 335 for additional movement.

My opinion was based on him "scraping" together the money. I think Chris made a great point, you need to make room for a 275mm minimum up front if you mini tub as well which adds to the equation. I think it's important to be happy with what you can afford, NOW. Get the car on the road and enjoy it. Contrary to common belief, it is more fun to USE the car. :)

I agree with Todd and Chris. My two cents: Unless you have 600-700 horsepower, from a handling perspective, you're not gaining anything by minitubbing it. I'd argue that a non minitubbed car with 400-500 horsepower and 275s all around would be less expensive, faster and easier to drive than if that same car was mini tubbed. If you do end up with stupid amounts of power the bigger tires will help put the power down much more smoothly, but you'll be trying to figure out how to keep the car from understeering.

Matt