Oh I got that..... but we had fun didn't we!?!?

:angel: :peepwall:

That's a good link GW, I'm going to buy a fresh set from them! Mine are getting a little old and frayed.

Questions on tying down that weren't exactly covered in that video,
Do you guys only tie to the suspension? or do you go to the frame and compress/preload the suspension? (I understood preloading and traveling that way to be very bad for the shocks?)

Do you x-over the straps to keep the car centered so it won't walk around in the trailer? (I don't always do it up front, but definitely in the rear because it seems to move around the most).


Jeff-


Jeff-

I bought a used 20 ft enclosed about 3 years ago...great investment. 24 ft would have been nice, but not required.

One other thing to consider that no one has mentions...where do you keep it? If you don't have a spot at home or a friend with land you can store it on, don't forget about the cost to have it at some storage facility. For awhile I had mine at a lot that charged $55/month for it to sit in an open fully paved lot. I didn't keep anything of value that could be hauled away in it, since a lot of these places have break ins.... So it was costing me $$ every month for it to just sit there...

My advice....go very basic and used, then add the little things yourself...winch is a must...and some storage but depends on what you are going to haul and do with it.....enclosed at a minimum of 20 ft, better if you can get 24...

Unless you are shooting for bragging rights, don't get all the fancy graphics, diamond plate, SS cabinets etc...... way better to use that $$ towards practical stuff

And don't scrimp on the tow vehicle...when it comes to towing "good enough" will come back and bite you in the ass...

Personally I use straps with D rings on both ends - run those THRU THE WHEELS --- and then strap to them. I only buy the "direct hook" straps so the jack handle is close to the tie down ring. My older straps that didn't have that direct hook -- they sell a conversion kit. Once you've used them - it's the only way to go! And thru the wheels (with a cover on the strap that they sell) is So FRIGGING EASY! I don't even have to lay down to do it! (not that kind of do it either you morons! LOL)


Otherwise I go over the axle or some part of the suspension... I NEVER go to the frame. The suspension will allow the car to float and bounce up and down and ride nice while keeping the car in place. Tie to the frame and hit a big bump and the car is jerking and yanking on the straps! That's a no no.

I never cross the straps unless that's the only way I have to --- they chafe on each other --- AND --- should one get loose or break - the other strap is then pulling the car to the side rather than straight back (or forward). The car is going to move FORWARD in breaking --- that's the big load.... so I want that tight as hell ---- and straight pull back to the floor tie downs.


I also put my cars in neutral so as not to be stressing the transmissions..... even thought they shouldn't be moving fore or aft -- you're pre-loading the parking pall or the gears when you're strapping them in.

Thanks for the tips. I don't plan on getting a new truck so ill look for an aluminum trailer.

Probably one of the most important things to me is the height of the rear opening. Not to be confused with ceiling height. I used an enclosed trailer for years for my lawn business. The rear opening was 72 inches high. I am 74 inches high. If I was hot, sweaty, tired, frustrated, beat, exhausted, distracted, and I went bee-bopping up the ramp without tilting my head slightly... I would get a nice little goose egg right on the crown of my thick skull. I hit the floor seeing stars on more than one occasion. You guys that are under 6ft have it made!!


Jeff-

I've only owned open trailers and have towed all over the western states this way. The thing with an open trailer, besides the weather, is everyone wants to talk about the car on deck. Sometimes it's a lot of fun and leads to finding more projects. :confused59:

With a 1/2ton I'd go as light as you can afford and something that is more than just a box like the V nose. I live up in the Seattle area and am surrounded by hills and mountains. My 1500 Silverado will do what ever I want it to but it's working pretty hard with an enclosed. You'll notice if the winds blowin! I had a warmed up Powerstroke that didn't care what it was pulling, up or down a hill, didn't matter. I miss that truck.

Anyone have a camera mounted to keep an eye on the inside of the trailer while underway?

:thumbsup:
Dan

is that all.................. you done now???? :BlahBlah: :BlahBlah: lmao

I have a 26' v nose, wouldn't go any smaller, by the time you load your junk in it tool box jack tent chairs ect you will be out of room.
put a winch in it FOR SURE, that is why we built in the tow/tie down loops on the subframe. I HATE trying to climb in and out of the car window when in the trailer,
I tow with a 1 ton diesel Dually wouldn't do it any other way.(well that is a lie if I could do it the way GREG does it that would be better I don't need sway bars on the hitch super stable. and Ask GREG how it tows on the grapevine lol
I think the dually is the only way to go both for safety and stability, it does not overload the tires and the brakes are much bigger, oh and the power and fuel mileage is usually better,

Stielow had this brand of trailer on his facebook page this past year.
http://www.montrosetrailers.com/ He wanted one that he could pull with his 1/2 ton truck.

Jeff




Here is another brand that is more aerodynamic, but I suspect it is costly.

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc...e=car_trailers