Those are the one i used on my 2nd gen, 04 Goat LS1. Works good so far. The angle is a little off at the MAF, i may tweek later for better visual, but that Lokar part works really well. Do it....

Totally agree with you, just got mine installed last month with Keisler Hydraulic TOB kit

Thanks guys,

I went with a similar lokar cable in my Willys when I swapped in the 5.7 and it worked well. Is there anything special I need for it to hook up to the ls1 throttle body?

I figured I'd just go with the 6cyl pedal both because it's cheaper and because it looks more plain. I went with stock brake and clutch pedals too. Hopefully it will work OK and I won't have too many problems with it.

Hopefully I'll be able to get the old engine pulled out before the end of the year. I plan on trading it for a 12 bolt rear from someone I know.

As luck would have it, I've had a nasty cold and haven't been working on the car as much as I'd planned. This always seems to happen when I take vacation. I'd rather be miserable at work than at home!

Anyway, I was able to get a few things done. I removed the GTO shifter from the T56 , installed a new F-body shifter cup in the tranny and installed my new MGW shifter.

I finished installing my Holley 302-2 pan, which required some grinding on the starter.

I also dug into my wiring harness for the engine and removed the stuff I didn't need. After going through the harness with a fine toothed comb I'm less daunted by it. I really can't finish it until the engine is mounted in the car because I won't know where I'll put the ECM but at least I have a start.

Oh, put another reconditioned radiator in my Willys too so I should be back to no leaks and having an overflow reservoir again!

I'm feeling a bit better today so I think I'll fire up the heat in my shop and move the Camaro into the lift bay. I'll have to wait until the hydraulics are nice and warm though before I put it up. It's still friggen cold here.

Time to start ripping this thing apart!

I got a lot of work done yesterday.

Exhaust, gas tank, drive shaft, radiator, tranny cooler, and the damn headers are off the car. The drivers side header was a miserable b---h to take off. I ended up having to remove all of the spark plugs and work it out the bottom.

I was also able to get most of the hoses, wires and linkages off of the engine and transmission so I have just bits and pieces to remove today in preparation to pull the engine and transmission itself.

I noticed that the slip yoke from my old automatic slides right into the T-56. Is there any reason not to use it for the swap?

Well, I'm going to make me some breakfast and then walk down to the shop and get crackin'

The old engine and trans are out!

My uncle came over to help me out and since I had a good head start it went pretty fast. We took off the hood, took out the bellhousing bolts and lifted out the engine. Then the trans came out the bottom.

We also took out the horse shoe shifter, the dash and the accelerator before we decided to call it quits for the day.

I can't seem to get the transmission crossmember out though. The bolts are removed but I can't seem to finagle it into a position where it will come out from between the subframe and the body. What's the deal? Is there something I'm missing?

The subframe mounts are shot and I have replacements. What is the best way to install the new ones without taking too much apart? Anyone have any suggestions? Also, one of the rear holes for the body mount on the subframe looks like it needs a weld repair.

Oh, it looks like I definitely have the 350 engine stands and I should probably get the 327 stands instead. Anyone have a suggestion on where to buy them?

Now I'm gonna take a well-deserved break and watch football today. I'm also in a fantasy football final which will win me some more money to put into the car...haha.

Well, Here's what the car looks like at the moment.

I've got problems though. I test fit the engine and I've got some issues with the brake booster hitting a coil and the oil pan hitting the crossmember. If I raise it up with a set of 327 stands or something, the brake booster will get worse at the same time the crossmember get's better.

Any suggestions?

I may have lost my audience by not posting enough pictures so I may post this question in another thread. I just figured I didn't have any interesting things to take pictures of until now.

ohh pictures.... looking good so far.

Subframe Issues
 

I posted in another thread but I figured I'd document here that I've got subframe issues.

I'll have to figure out if it is worth fixing this one, if I should find a used stock one, buy a new OEM style one, or get something aftermarket.

The sub is sprung an inch too wide in the rear from mount to mount and it's got rusted out mount holes in at least three of the 6 positions. It also appears that the middle stand on the drivers side might be bent a bit.

Here's the thread with pix:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...022#post527022

Well, I figured I'd post a small update. I am definitely looking for a replacement subframe. I measured mine compared to the original specs the other day and it is WAY off. The mount locations on the car itself do match spec however so that's good news.

I also was able to check out my new (for me) 12 bolt that I traded the old camaro motor for. It's a posi unit and I was hoping for the correct gearing but I didn't really know what it was. Took the time to count the revolutions of the pinion to the hub and decided it's a 4.10. That's great news. I can use that.

With a 27" tall tire I should be about 43mph in first gear at 6500 RPM and 1600 RPM in 6th at 55mph. 70mph in 6th will be at 2000 RPM.

I think I can live with that. It should really want to roast the tires in 1st though. If I have to adjust maybe I'll go with a bit bigger diameter rear tire, of course, I'm not sure what is best for looks and fitment.