^^^

I read it back around '05. Bought my good friend a copy for Christmas this year but haven't given it to him yet (he travels a lot for work). Maybe I'll just have to hang on to it for a little bit longer.

Found it. Perfect and looks great.

You're holding out on me, Sieg. ;)

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...0&postcount=20

So the only issue I'd have to contend with if running 4.75-5.5 and 245-275/40 is the inner fender well bolt heads? And that's with my stock front discs or, looking down the road a bit, an upgraded brake set up? And how does any mod I may perform to correct the camber issue going to play into this?

Hey.........I'm not your mother. :twak:

I also used black oxide button head socket cap screws for the fender to inner fender attachment at the top of the wheel well as I was getting a little contact on driveway approaches. :thumbsup:

Here's a pic of the car so you can see what I'm workin' with...

HA! I'm fiercely independent so trust me when I say it pains me to be in a position where I have to ask for so much help. Being severely deficient of free time makes me wonder if I should even be messing with this stuff. Hey, at forty-four I'm needing to stay a little irresponsible so I don't, you know, grow old.

Back to being responsible.

don't grow up its a trap.....

The car looks good! Little altitude challenged but good. :)

If you don't ask you don't learn. Asking focused questions around here get's you a free education and saves a lot of time and money. Learning the search feature can produce surprising results too! :thumbsup:

My car handles surprisingly well considering it has few aftermarket parts. I think it shouldn't handle as well as it does, though I've never had it on the track to push the setup past the limit, and I refuse to explore the limit on the street though I've flirted with it more than once but you don't know exactly until you've taken it beyond the limit. As is I believe it would do alright on the track.........it certainly wouldn't set lap records, but wouldn't be scary or embarrassing either.

I've had it 25 years and maintained a frugal budget. It has stock control arms and bushings with old HO Performance front coil springs with Koni's up front, stock 5/8" bar, Global West rear leafs -2" which were labeled "Special" when I bought them and are now referred to as L-2's. The front spring rate is pretty stiff as is the rear which keeps the roll rate down. The rear spring is the standard eye configuration with poly bushings.

As CurtiSS mentioned the stiffer rear spring made it loose in the rear especially with older smaller 245 tires. Going to 200TW 275's pretty much eliminated worrying out losing the rear unexpectedly on the street. Though I miss dirt tracking a few favorite freeway approaches. :)

Ideally what I'd like to improve without altering the current stance........add approximately 1" more travel front and rear while maintaining similar roll characteristics.

To do this up front I need to verify the front spring OAL and rate and probably change spindles. I have a Hotchkis tubular bar and springs sitting on the shelf that may find their way on the car after it's torn apart and measured. I'm also leaning towards GW's upper A-arms shafts and Del-A-Lum upper and lower bushings.

The rear springs have a spacer that's about 1", I'm considering the GW Cat-5 -2" w/ reverse eye spring kit may work well and minimize or eliminate the blocks. GW's spherical bearing should improve (smoothen) the feel as well as limit lateral movement during cornering.

The Koni shocks are good but I think a modern adjustable shock like RideTech's HQ may deliver a smoother ride with more range of adjustment.

That's the basic simple man's plan but it needs to be disassembled and thoroughly measured to know what will work.

Hope that gives you a little food for thought. :thumbsup:

great stuff you have to start......first I will augment the setup you have....
wth the spring and leaf combo you have you need an adjustable shock....QA1, ridetech, Hotchkis,....just someones, a shock is a timing device and in order to control the roll, pitch and yaw on the car you must be able to adjust the hold and release times of the vehicles movement
shocks about 500 bucks
and heres one everyone's going to argue with.. but trust me...do the guldstrand mod, just drill the 4 little holes...really and add a .500 tall upper ball joint to that stock arm
guldstrand mod free
Tall upperball joint 100 bucks
brakes are great you can live with them as long as you have the small rim(16")
steering box is good
sway bar is good

now you are in it for 600 bucks and some of your labor...


but.....if it was my car......

adjustable shocks $500 bucks
proforged tall ball joint 101-10016 $100
guldstrand free
global west upper control arm 6 degree caster arm #CTA-79AP $475
DSE lower control arms (lower ball joint is relocated forward making more castor) #DSR-031201 $685
Helwig rear sway bar #55824 $245
Falken Tires to fit the 16 inch rims Falken Azenis RT-615K $640

total for mine comes to $2645....and then go race and save for bigger wheels, in the mean time you get seat and tuning time

I won a few Goodguys events with almost this exact setup :thumbsup:

Global West. They are 800lb/in units. I asked for 650's and they sent me 800's. I called them back, and they told me I have the right springs and hung up LOL! When I did get talk to them they had done extensive testing setting up a very similar car and found these to be the right springs. They have worked out well. The ride is about like a stock M3.

Carl Casanova has done the 9.5" wide wheel successfully on a 68. http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/5...t-gen-subframe
With Carl's lead I have as well. Check it out.

As far as wheels: get at least 18's, so you will find more tires at 275, and have room for larger brakes.


Regards

DEC